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DIRECTORY 


THE  PACIFIC  COAST 


THE   UNITED   STATES. 


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DIRECTORY 


PACIFIC  COAST  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES, 

BETOBTSD  TO  XU£  SUPSBBnBmBMT  OP  THE  UNITED  ETTATES  OOASX  SUEVET. 


BY  GEORGE  DAVIDSON,  ASSISTANT. 


Kensington,  Penn.,  August  29,  1858. 

Dear  Sib:  In  offering  for  yonr  acceptance  the  following  Directory  for  the  Pacific  Coast  of  the 
United  States,  it  may  not  be  amiss  to  state  the  circumstances  under  which  it  was  undertaken. 

For  nearly  eight  years  the  duties  which  you  assigned  to  me  in  California,  and  in  Oregon  and 
Washington  Territories,  kept  mo  moving  continually  along  the  seaboard  in  every  manner  of 
conveyance,  and  familiarized  mo  with  almost  every  mile  of  the  coast,  along  which  my  various 
trips  and  explorations  have  amounted  to  an  aggregate  of  between  fifty  and  sixty  thousand 
miles.  I  early  felt  the  want  of  reliable  information  in  tangible  form,  instead  of  trusting  to 
memorj",  and,  upon  assuming  the  charge  of  the  coast  surveying  brig  R.  H.  Fauntleroy,  I 
determined  to  embody  for  publication  the  information  acquired,  but  several  years  of  failing 
health  prevented  the  execution  of  more  than  regular  duties,  until  the  growing  desire  to  leave 
the  Pacific  coast  forced  me  to  occupy  the  remaining  leisure  moments  in  arranging  the  matter 
while  yet  freshly  photographed  upon  the  mind.  A  small  portion  was  published  in  San  Fran- 
cisco, and,  although  abounding  in  typographical  errors,  the  avidity  with  which  it  was  sought 
was  a  strong  incentive  to  continue  the  self-imposed  task.  The  result  is  now  placed  at  jour 
disposal,  and,  having  examined  all  the  courses,  distances  and  positions,  I  trust  that  no  essential 
errors  have  been  overlooked,  but  whatever  have,  fall  upon  my  own  shoulders . 

My  duties  having  been  especially  geodetic  and  astronomical,  we  naturally  preceded  the 
hydrography,  and,  working  in  comparatively  unknown  waters,  have  had  constant  occasion  to 
use  the  lead.  When  seeking  for  an  anchorage,  drifting  with  currents,  or  on  boat  duty,  I  have 
almost  invariably  kept  it  going  from  my  own  band.  Several  discoveries  have  rewarded  our 
efforts. 

The  historical  notices  of  previous  discoveries  will  be  found  few  and  short,  as  hardly  coining 
within  the  scope  of  the  present  undertaking.  The  descriptions  may  reconcile  some  of  the 
discordancies  of  the  early  navigators. 

Very  respectfully,  yours,  GEORGE  DAVIDSON, 

Aasiatani  Coast  Survey. 

Prof.  A.  D.  Bache,  Sujierinlaident  U.  8.  Coast  Survey,   Waakinglon,  D.  C. 
1 


REPORT    OF   THE   SUPERINTENDENT   OF 


INTRODUCTORY. 


Before  the  recent  conquest  of  California  and  the  discovery  and  development  of  its  vast 
mineral  wealth,  comparatively  little  was  known  of  the  hydrography  and  geography  of  its  coast, 
except  by  the  few  navigators  trading  along  its  seaboard,  or  the  daring  otter  hunter,  familiar 
with  every  cove,  rock,  and  headland.  All  that  had  been  accomplished  forcibly  showed  that  a 
great  work  had  yet  to  be  planned  and  executed. 

It  would  take  us  far  from  our  prescribed  path  to  trace  the  extent,  bearing,  and  importance 
of  the  successive  discoveries  made  during  a  period  of  more  than  three  hundred  years,  between 
1539,  when  Francisco  de  Ulloa  first  determined  Lower  California  to  be  a  peninsula,  and  1849, 
when  the  Superintendent  of  the  United  States  Coast  Survey  first  despatched  a  party  to  give 
definite  shape  to  our  shores.  If  the  early  adventurers  and  discoverers  made  their  explorations 
in  small  crazy  vessels,  with  wretched  and  untrustworthy  instruments  and  methods,  it  is  no  less 
true  that  the  first  Coast  Survey  parties  made  theirs  with  inadequate  funds,  and  under  diflicul- 
ties  and  privations  that  the  well-housed  Californian  of  to-day  can  never  fully  appreciate. 

The  task  we  have  proposed  to  ourselves  before  leaving  the  glorious  El  Dorado,  whose 
Golden  Gate  has  admitted  in  ten  years  the  commerce  of  every  nation,  and  given  egress  to  products 
worth  five  hundred  millions  of  dollars,  will  be,  to  state  all  that  is  known  at  the  present  time 
of  the  hydrography  and  geography  of  the  Pacific  coast  of  the  United  States  from  the  southern 
boundary  in  32°  32'  to  the  northern  boundary  in  49°,  embracing  an  ocean  shore-line  of  over 
3,120  miles,  the  whole  divided  as  follows:  California,  including  the  islands  of  the  Santa  Barbara 
channel,  1,097  miles;  Oregon  Territory,  285  miles;  Washington  Territory,  including  the  south 
side  of  the  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  Admiralty  inlet,  Puget's  Sound,  the  Archipelago  de  Haro, 
&c.,  1,738  miles. 

The  descriptions  of  ports,  bays,  anchorages,  reefs,  capes,  islands,  &c.,  will  be  given  gene- 
rally from  personal  observation  made  during  an  examination  of  the  coast,  extending  through 
nearly  eight  years.  Whatever  has  not  come  directly  under  our  own  criticism  will  be  taken 
from  the  published  reports  and  maps  of  the  Coast  Survej\  The  names  adopted  will  be  those 
most  reliable.     Where  any  changes  have  taken  place,  they  will  be  stated  if  known. 

With  these  few  words  of  introduction,  we  may  be  pardoned  in  expressing  a  conviction  that 
the  knowledge  herein  conveyed  will  be  of  advantage  to  our  extended  commerce,  and  in 
assuring  the  navigator  approaching  the  bold  outline  of  our  coast  of  the  accuracy  of  the 
geographical  positions.  No  work  of  the  kind  has  heretofore  been  undertaken;  and  should  it 
possess  no  other  merit  than  serving  as  a  nucleus  for  aggregating  future  discoveries  and 
developments,  we  shall  feel  that  our  labor  has  not  been  wholly  in  vain. 

EXPLANATORY    REMARKS. 

The  longihides  of  nine  stations  on  the  coast  have  been  determined  by  the  Coast  Survey,  by 
means  of  moon  culminations,  occultations,  and  solar  eclipses.  The  observations  of  moon 
culminations  at  each  station  generally  extended  through  three  lunations.  The  latitude  was 
determined  according  to  the  most  approved  methods  and  with  the  most  delicate  instruments. 
These  stations  and  twenty-four  intermediate  ones  have  been  connected  by  means  of  a  large 
number  of  chronometers,  (from  fourteen  to  twenty-one,)  transported  by  steamer,  for  the  deter- 
mination of  the  longitude  of  the  intermediate  ones,  of  which  the  latitude  was  also  accurately 


TnE   UNITED   STATES   COAST   SURVEY.  3 

determined  in  the  same  manner  us  the  principal  onc8.  Otiier  points,  including  light-houses, 
have  been  determined  by  triangulatiou. 

Where  any  position  is  given  to  the  nearest  minute  only,  it  has  boon  taken  from  the  latest 
chart  of  the  Coast  Survey.     The  longitude  is  reckoned  west  from  Greenwich. 

The  prediction  </  the  tidat  supersedes  the  crude  approximations  of  previous  explorers.  A 
table  and  example  will  be  introduced  to  show  the  manner  of  predicting  the  times  of  high  and 
low  waters  at  San  Francisco. 

Soundings  are  given  for  low  water. 

Bearings  are  magnetic. 

Distances  are  expressed  in  geographical  (nautical)  miles. 

Miignelic  d^inaiiona  (variations)  were  determined  with  delicate  and  reliable  instruments,  and 
precautions  were  always  taken  to  avoid  the  influence  of  local  attraction. 

Descriptions  of  lighl-houaes,  fog-bells,  buoys,  Ac,  are  from  the  published  notices  of  the 
Light-house  Board. 

COAST  DIRECTORY.— MEXICO. 

LOS  COBONADOS. 

These  islands  belong  to  Mexico;  are  situated  between  latitude  32°  24'  and  32°  2T,  and  longi- 
tude 117°  13'  and  117°  18',  and  lie  about  7  miles  from  the  shore.  They  form  a  group  of  high, 
bold,  and  abrupt  rocks  and  islets,  of  which  the  largest  is  15  miles,  S.  11°  E.  from  Point  Loraa, 
between  l.J  and  l\  mile  in  length  by  one-third  of  a  mile  in  width,  and  lying  in  a  NW.  and 
SE.  direction.  Off  this  lie  two  or  three  rocks  to  the  northwestward.  The  smaller  of  the  two 
prominent  islets  lies  N.  58°  W.  from  the  larger,  and  is  distant  2J  miles. 

In  coming  from  the  south,  this  group  affords  a  good  mark  for  making  San  Diego,  although 
before  being  up  with  them  Point  Loma  shows  distinctly. 

IjOS  Coronados  were  discovered  and  named  by  Juan  Rodriguez  Cabrillo  in  1542. 

PACIFIC  COAST  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

CALIFORNIA. 

This  name  is  first  found  in  the  Journal  of  Bernal  Diaz  del  Castillo,  an  officer  who  served 
under  Cortez  in  the  conquest  of  Mexico;  he  limits  the  name  to  a  single  bay. 

The  country  was  called  New  Albion  by  Sir  Francis  Drake  in  1577.  It  was  called  Islas 
Carolinas,  in  honor  of  Charles  II,  of  Spain,  because  the  peninsula  of  California  was  supposed 
to  be  an  island.  The  name  California  was  afterwards  applied  to  the  peninsula,  and  gradually 
wns  used  to  designate  the  region  from  the  Gulf  of  California  to  the  mythical  "Straita  of 
Anian." 

The  monument  marking  the  western  initial  point  of  the  boundary  between  Mexico  and  the 
United  States  is  on  the  table  bluff  rising  from  the  low  land  south  of  San  Diego  bay.  It« 
gec^raphical  position,  as  determined  by  the  Coast  Survey,  is: 

o      /        // 
Latitude 32  31  58.46  north. 

Longitude 117  06  11.12  west. 

A.     m.         (. 
Or,  in  time 7  48  24.74, 


4  REPORT   OP   THE   SUPERINTENDENT   OF 

From  the  boundary  the  coast  is  low  and  flat,  running  N.  by  W.  for  about  7  miles;  thence 
curving  gradually  westward  until  it  is  nearly  east  and  west  at  the  entrance  of  San  Diego  bay. 

SAN  DIEGO  BAY. 

Next  to  San  Francisco,  no  harbor  on  the  Pacific  coast  of  the  United  States  approximates  in 
excellence  that  of  the  bay  of  San  Diego.  It  is  easily  approached,  and  a  depth  of  20  feet  can 
be  carried  over  the  bar  lying  between  the  southern  extremity  of  Point  Loma  and  the  tail  of 
the  Zuniga  shoal.  The  bar  is  500  yards  wide  between  the  inner  and  outer  five  fathom  lines. 
The  existence  of  a  bar  at  the  entrance  of  this  port  was  discovered  by  Vancouver  in  1793,  and 
in  criticizing  a  plan  of  the  harbor,  published  byDalrymple  in  1782,  he  remarks:  "This  plan,  in 
point  of  correctness,  is  justly  entitled  to  much  praise,  but  was  yet  capable,  as  far  as  came 
under  my  observation,  of  the  following  little  improvements:  the  scale  representing  five 
nautical  miles  should  only  subtend  three  miles  and  a  half;  the  shoals  of  Barros  de  Zooniga, 
though  well  placed,  instead  of  being  two  distinct  shoals  ought  to  have  been  one  entire  shoal, 
stretching  something  further  to  the  NW.  and  SE.  than  is  therein  represented;  and  the  sound- 
ings between  Barros  de  Zooniga  and  the  land  of  Ponta  de  la  Loma,  (which  is  omitted,)  are,  in 
no  part,  from  the  south  extremity  of  the  former,  directly  across  to  the  latter,  more  than  four 
fathoms  at  high  water,  and  form  a  narrow  bar  from  the  shore  to  the  shoal,  gradually  deepening 
as  well  on  the  inside  as  on  the  outside  of  the  bar,  with  a  regular  increase  in  mid  channel,  from 
five,  close  to  the  shore,  to  ten  fathoms  between  the  two  low  points  that  form  the  entrance  to 
the  port."— (Vol.  II,  page  473.) 

As  the  mean  rise  and  fall  of  spring  tides  is  five  feet,  and  of  neap  tides  about  two  and  a  half, 
Vancouver's  and  the  recent  examinations  of  the  Coast  Survey  confirm  each  other,  and  tend  to 
show  that  the  depth  has  remained  the  same  for  the  last  sixty-three  years. 

Point  Loma  is  the  southern  part  of  the  western  boundary  of  the  bay,  and  the  termination  of 
a  remarkable  narrow  spur  of  coarse,  crumbling  sandstone  rising  south  of  Puerto  False,  or  False 
bay,  and  west  of  the  town  of  San  Diego,  to  the  height  of  300  feet,  and  after  stretching  south 
for  about  5^  miles,  gradually  increasing  in  height,  terminates  very  abruptly.  It  is  covered  with 
coarse  grass,  cacti,  wild  sage,  and  low  bushes. 

Point  Loma  light-house  is  less  than  half  a  mile  from  the  southern  end,  and  situated  upon  the 
highest  part  of  the  point,  which  here  attains  an  elevation  of  422  feet  above  high  water.  The 
building  consists  of  a  stone  dwelling  of  one  and  a  half  stories,  with  a  low  tower  of  brick  rising 
from  the  centre  sufficiently  high  to  give  full  effect  to  the  light,  which  is  450  feet  above  the  sea, 
and  was  first  exhibited  November  15,  1855.  The  light  is  a  fixed  white  light  of  the  third 
order  of  Fresnel,  exhibited  from  sunset  to  sunrise,  illuminating  the  entire  horizon,  and  in  clear 
weather  should  be  visible — 

From  a  height  of  10  feet  above  the  sea,  at  a  distance  of  28  miles. 

From  a  height  of  20  feet  above  the  sea,  at  a  distance  of  29  miles. 

From  a  height  of  30  feet  above  the  sea,  at  a  distance  of  31  miles. 

The  geographical  position  of  the  light,  as  given  by  the  Coast  Survey,  is : 

O  /  II 

Latitude 32  40  13.0  north. 

Longitude 117  12  22  west. 

A.    m.       t. 

Or,  in  time 7  48  49.5. 

Magnetic  variation,  12°  29'  east,  in  April,  1851,  with  a  yearly  increase  of  1'.4. 


THE   UOTTED   STATES   COAST   8URVBT.  6 

Vessels  coining  from  the  northwest  mnko  the  ridge  of  Point  Loma  as  a  long,  flat-topped 
island,  when  about  25  miles  distant.  This  appearance  is  occasioned  by  the  bay  to  the  south- 
west, by  the  low  land  to  the  northeast,  and  by  the  Puerto  Falso  at  the  north.  Approaching 
the  south  end  of  the  point,  give  it  a  berth  of  about  half  to  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  6  and  7 
fathoms,  passing  through  the  kelp.  As  soon  as  the  point  is  passed,  a  long,  low  beach  of 
shingle  is  opened,  making  out  from  the  oast  side  of  the  point  and  forming  a  natural  breakwater, 
formerly  called  Punta  de  Guiranas  by  the  Spaniards,  but  now  designated  as  Ballast  Point. 

Round  up  gradually  until  Ballast  Point  is  brought  in  range  with  the  easternmost  house  of  La 
Playa,  (distant  one  mile  from  Ballast  Point  and  on  the  same  side  of  the  bay,)  and  be  careful 
not  to  open  more  of  the  village,  as  the  shoal  called  Barros  de  Zuniga  stretches  south  from  the 
east  side  of  the  entrance,  parallel  to  the  ridge  of  Point  Loma,  and  distant  only  three-quarters  of 
a  mile  from  it.  Between  Point  Loma  and  this  shoal  runs  the  channel,  which  is  less  than  half  a 
mile  wide  within  the  three-fathom  curve.  With  the  least  swell  the  breakers  show  the  position 
and  extent  of  the  shoal,  and  at  low  tides  part  of  it  is  bare. 

During  the  summer  keep  as  close  to  Point  Loma  as  the  draught  of  the  vessel  will  permit, 
and  lay  on  the  wind  up  to  Ballast  Point,  off  which  four  fathoms  can  be  carried  within  a  ship's 
length,  with  10  fathoms  in  mid  channel.  After  passing  Ballast  Point  steer  for  La  Playa,  and 
anchor  anywhere  in  from  4  to  10  fathoms,  with  good  holding  ground.  Inside  the  point,  and 
about  250  yards  N.  by  W.  from  it,  is  a  shoal  spot  having  only  12  feet  water  upon  it.  The 
shoals  on  the  starboard  hand,  after  entering,  are  plainly  in  sight,  except  at  very  high  water. 
The  channel,  however,  is  buoyed,  and  cannot  be  missed.  From  La  Playa  to  New  San  Diego, 
four  miles  distant,  the  channel  curves  to  the  right  and  contracts,  but  about  six  fathoms  water 
may  be  carried  that  far.  A  mile  or  two  beyond  the  town  the  bay  becomes  shoal  and  filled 
with  flats. 

Coming  from  the  south,  run  for  the  extreme  end  of  Point  Loma  until  Ballast  Point  and  La 
Playa  are  in  range,  as  before,  and  follow  the  foregoing  directions. 

Tides. — The  corrected  establishment  or  mean  interval  between  the  time  of  the  moon's  transit 
and  the  time  of  high  water  at  La  Playa  is  IXA.  XXXVIIIm.  The  mean  rise  and  fall  of  tides  is 
3.7  feet,  of  spring  tides  5.0  feet,  and  of  neap  tides  2.3  feet.  The  mean  duration  of  the  flood  is 
Gh.  25m.;  of  the  ebb,  Qh.  Om.;  and  of  the  stand  0/«.  30m.  The  average  difference  between  the 
corrected  establishments  of  the  a.  m.  and  p.  m.  tides  of  the  same  day  is  Ih,  20m.  for  high  water, 
and  \h.  6m.  for  low  water.  The  differences,  when  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest,  aro  2h.  4m. 
and  Ih.  36m.,  respectively.  The  average  difference  in  height  of  these  two  tides  is  1.5  foot  for 
the  high  waters  and  2.1  feet  for  the  low  waters.  When  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest,  those 
differences  are  2.2  feet  and  3.0  feet,  respectively.  The  average  difference  of  the  highest  high 
and  lowest  low  waters  of  the  same  day  is  5.5  feet,  and  when  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest 
6.3  feet.  The  highest  high  tide  in  the  twenty-four  hours  occurs  about  OA.  10m.  after  the 
moon's  upper  transit,  (southing,)  when  the  moon's  declination  is  north,  and  about  3A.  16nj. 
before  when  south.  The  lowest  of  the  low  waters  occurs  about  7 J  hours  after  the  highest 
high  tide. 

When  inside  the  harbor  vessels  are  perfectly  safe,  but  during  very  heavy  southerly  weather 
the  kelp  is  said  to  be  driven  in  in  such  great  masses  aa  to  make  vessels  drag  their  anchors.  We 
have  never  known  such  a  case,  and  doubt  if  a  vessel  with  good  ground  tackle  and  proper 
attention  would  suffer  from  this  cause.  Certainly  there  is  not  reach  enough  for  the  wind  to 
raise  a  swell,  and  the  holding  ground  is  excellent. 


6  REPORT   OF   THE   SUPERINTENDENT   OF 

The  primary  astronomical  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  is  on  the  round  topped  hill,  100  feet 

high,  and  a  quarter  of  a  mile  W.SW.  of  La  Playa. 

Its  geographical  position  is: 

o     /     // 

Latitude 32  41  58  north. 

Longitude Ill  13  22  west. 

h.    m.       I. 
Or,  in  time 7  48  53.5. 

The  eastern  side  of  the  entrance  to  San  Diego  bay  is  low  and  flat,  covered  with  thick  bushes 
and  grass.  It  is  called  "The  Island,"  although  but  a  peninsula,  being  very  low  and  narrow 
towards  the  head  of  the  bay.  On  Ballast  Point,  at  the  base  of  the  Point  Loma  ridge,  are 
visible  the  ruins  of  the  old  Spanish  fortifications,  &c. 

From  Ballast  Point  the  bay  runs  about  north  for  a  mile  and  a  half;  thence  curves  gradually 
to  the  eastward  for  3  miles  to  New  San  Diego;  thence  to  the  head  of  the  bay,  southeast,  7  miles. 
The  average  width  of  the  bay  after  passing  La  Playa  is  a  mile  and  a  half,  but  at  New  San 
Diego,  after  contracting  to  a  trifle  over  half  a  mile,  it  again  expands  to  about  a  mile  and  a  half, 
with  low  shores  and  extensive  marshes  and  flats.  Many  years  since  the  San  Diego  river  changed 
its  course  during  a  freshet,  and  emptied  into  San  Diego  bay  instead  of  Puerto  Falso,  to  the 
northwest.  The  result  was  a  rapid  filling  in  of  the  bay  opposite  the  old  town  of  San  Diego. 
An  appropriation  was  made  by  Congress  to  turn  the  channel  of  the  river  to  its  original  bed. 
This  was  done  a  few  years  ago,  but  the  works  have  not  proved  of  sufficient  strength. 

The  great  drawback  in  San  Diego  bay  is  the  want  of  fresh  water,  which  has  to  be  brought 
from  the  river.  An  effort  was  made  in  1851  to  obtain  a  supply  at  La  Playa  by  sinking  an 
artesian  well,  but  after  boring  635  feet  the  attempt  was  abandoned.  A  similar  attempt,  with 
like  results,  was  made  at  New  Town,  both  confirming  the  previously  expressed  opinion  of 
geologists.  The  same  amount  of  money  would  have  brought  it  in  earthen  pipes  from  the  river. 
During  the  long  dry  season  the  river  loses  itself  in  the  sand,  and  the  inhabitants  are  compelled 
to  dig  in  its  bed  to  obtain  their  supplies.  Fresh  provisions  are  readily  procured  here.  "Wood 
is  scarce  and  not  good. 

The  land  in  the  region  of  San  Diego  bay  is,  Avith  the  exception  of  a  small  portion,  well  adapted 
to  grazing.  There  are  numerous  tracts,  of  limited  extent,  which  produce  well,  but  they  are 
favorably  situated  for  irrigation,  the  want  of  rain  being  very  much  felt  in  every  section.  Back 
in  the  mountainous  districts  is  found  abundance  of  timber  of  many  varieties,  such  as  oak,  pine, 
cedar,  fir,  ash,  sycamore,  elm,  &c.  Gold,  silver,  lead,  copper,  &c.,  are  found,  but  the  product 
is  not  remunerative.  A  vein  of  coal  (lignite)  has  been  discovered  near  San  Diego,  which  is 
reported  of  excellent  quality,  and  interested  parties  are  erecting  machinery  to  work  the  lead, 
but  the  experiment  must  prove  a  failure,  because  no  genuine  coal  is  to  be  found  upon  the  coast, 
and  in  1851  a  report  was  made  against  this  very  deposit. 

"When  fishery  assumes  a  practical  shape  on  this  coast  the  harbor  of  San  Diego  will  become 
a  position  of  importance. 

Communication  with  San  Francisco  and  the  northern  or  windward  ports  is  maintained  every 
week  by  steamer,  and  by  regular  lines  of  sailing  vessels. 

San  Diego  bay  was  discovered  by  Juan  Rodriguez  Cabrillo,  a  Portuguese  in  the  service  of 
Spain,  in  September,  1542;  called  Port  San  Miguel,  and  placed  by  him  in  latitude  34°  20'  N., 
showing  the  imperfection  of  the  instruments  and  modes  of  observing  in  those  days.     He  found 


THE   UNITED  STATES   COAST   SUKVEY.  7 

preat  numbers  of  Indians  hero,  who  received  him  hospitably,  but  with  cautiousness.  It  received 
its  present  name  from  Sebastian  Vizcaino,  who  surveyed  it  in  November,  1602. 

In  his  time  there  existed  a  forest  of  tall,  straight  oak  and  other  trees  bordering  upon  tlie 
NW.  side  of  the  bay.  This  forest  was  said  to  be  three  leagues  in  length  and  half  a  league  in 
breadth,  whilst  to  the  northwest  of  it  was  a  good  harbor,  now  known  as  Puerto  Falso. 

From  the  southern  extremity  of  Point  Loma  the  coast  runs  N.  by  W.  for  22  miles;  thence  to 
Point  Lausen,  (of  Vancouver,  1793,)  forming  the  east  point  of  San  Pedro  bay,  NW.  by  W.  J 
W.  nearly  60  miles. 

At  the  north  end  of  the  ridge  of  Point  Loma  is  an  extensive  shoal  bay  called  Puerto  Falso 
or  False  bay.  To  the  north  and  west  of  this  the  shore  becomes  compact  and  unbroken,  except 
by  the  valleys  of  San  Luis  Rey  and  San  Juan  Capistrano.  The  waters  off  this  stretch  of  the 
coast  Vizcaino  calls  the  bay  of  Santa  Catalina. 

The  latest  chart  of  San  Diego  bay  is  that  accompanying  the  Report  of  the  Superintendent 
of  the  Coast  Survey  for  1857. 

BAN  LUIS  RET. 

The  Mission  of  San  Luis  Rey  is  the  largest  in  Alta  California,  and  the  number  of  domesticated 
Indians  formerly  in  its  neighborhood  gave  it  the  appearance  of  a  large  and  thriving  settlement. 
It  is  nearly  in  the  centre  of  a  section  of  country  imequalled  for  salubrity  and  productiveness, 
but  the  scarcity  of  rain  is  an  insuperable  drawback. 

The  Mission  is  now  a  military  post,  but  very  few  men  are  stationed  there. 

The  anchorage  is  very  much  restricted  and  unprotected,  and  now  never  visited.  Its  relative 
position  on  the  coast  will  be  seen  by  reference  to  the  reconnaissance  sheet  of  the  Coast  Survey 
published  in  1852. 

SAN  JUAN   CAPISTBANO. 

Now  a  place  of  no  importance,  with  an  unprotected  anchorage,  rocky  bottom,  and  bad 
landing. 

This  Mission,  like  all  the  others,  is  rapidly  going  to  decay. 

In  latitude  33°  30J'  N.,  about  4  miles  northwestward  along  the  coast  from  the  western  point 
of  Capistrano  anchorage,  the  line  of  equal  magnetic  dedinaiion  of  13°  east  cuts  the  shore,  passing 
over  the  great  transverse  break  of  the  island  of  Santa  Catalina.  This  line  annually  moves 
southward  a  mile  and  a  half. 

The  geographical  position  of  San  Juan  Capistrano  is  marked  on  the  sheet  of  general  recon- 
naissance published  by  the  Coast  Survey  Office  in  1852. 

SAN    PEDBO   BAT. 

This  bay  is  well  protected  in  every  direction,  except  against  the  winter  gales  from  the  south- 
east round  to  the  southwest.  During  the  spring,  summer,  and  autumn,  it  is  an  excellent  road- 
stead. From  Point  Fermin,  which  is  the  southeast  point  of  high  land  west  of  the  bay,  the  line 
of  bluff  runs  exactly  north  and  south  for  about  two  miles,  being  bold,  and  averaging  60  feet  in 
height. 

Vessels  coming  from  the  westward  through  the  Santa  Barbara  channel  make  San  Pedro  hill 
(1,600  feet  in  height)  forming  the  west  side  of  the  bay,  as  an  island  projected  against  the  mount- 


8  BEPOKT   OP   THE    SUPERINTENDENT   OF 

ains  to  the  southward  and  eastward.  Approaching  Point  Vincente,*  which  is  the  southwest 
point  of  the  hill,  vessels  can  keep  it  close  aboard,  there  being  from  50  to  80  fathoms  within  a 
mile  of  the  shoret ;  round  Point  Fermin  within  half  a  mile,  in  froni  6  to  10  fathoms,  and 
open  the  small  island  called  El  Moro,  or,  on  the  Coast  Survey  reconnaissance  sketches  of  1852 
and  chart  of  1855,  Dead  Man's  island,  run  for  that  island  and  when  abreast  of  the  landing, 
(readily  recognized  by  the  houses  on  the  bluff,)  about  one  mile  north  of  Point  Fermin,  anchor 
in  three  fathoms,  hard  bottom,  and  half  a  mile  off  shore.  Vessels  must  anchor  a  mile  off  to  get 
five  fathoms. 

Coming  from  the  south  with  northwest  winds,  beat  in  boldly  until  abreast  of  the  landing ; 
keep  the  lead  going  and  anchor  anywhere  in  its  vicinity.  Do  not  approach  the  low  shore,  to 
the  north  and  east  of  El  Moro,  closer  than  one  mile,  at  which  limit  four  fathoms  water  will  be 
found. 

In  winter,  anchor  further  out,  and  more  to  the  southward,  in  order  to  be  able  to  slip  the 
cable  and  go  to  sea  should  a  heavy  southeaster  spring  up.  We  have,  however,  seen  a  vessel 
ride  out  a  very  heavy  southeast  gale  of  three  days'   duration. 

Wood  and  water  are  not  readily  obtained,  and  charges  are  high.  The  beef  raised  here  is 
remarkably  tough. 

The  geographical  position  of  the  Coast  Survey  secondary  astronomical  station  on  the  bluff  at 
the  landing  is: 

o      /         // 

Latitude 33     43   19.6  north. 

Longitude 118     16      3.0  west. 

h.       m.         t. 
Or,  in  time, 7      53     04.2 

Magnetic   variation,  13°  30'  east,  in  November  1853,  with  a  yearly  increase  of  1'.4. 

An  appropriation  has  been  made  for  a  light-house  on  Point  Fermin,  and  the  necessary  topo- 
graphical survey  is  complete.  The  site  recommended  to  the  Light-house  Board,  by  the  Super- 
intendent of  the  Coast  Survey,  is  S.  15°  W.,  and  fifteen-sixteenths  of  a  mile  distant  from  the 
astronomical  station. 

Tides. — The  corrected  establishment  or  mean  interval  between  the  time  of  the  moon's  transit 
and  the  time  of  high  water  is  IX/i.  XXXIXm.  The  mean  rise  and  fall  of  tides  is  8.7  feet,  of 
spring  tides  4.7  feet,  and  of  neap  tides  2.2  feet.  The  mean  duration  of  the  flood  is  %h.  18m, 
of  the  ebb  6/t.  5m,  and  of  the  stand  OA.  30m.  The  average  difference  between  the  corrected  estab- 
lishments of  the  a.  m.  and  p.  m.  tides  of  the  same  day  is  1^.  10m.  for  high  water,  and  lA.  4m.  for 
low  water.  The  differences,  when  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest,  are  \h.  55m.  and  \h.  38m., 
respectively.  The  average  difference  in  height  of  these  two  tides  is  1.5  feet  for  the  high  waters 
and  2. 0  for  the  low  waters.  When  the  moon' s  declination  is  greatest,  those  differences  are  2. 3 
feet  and  3. 1  feet,  respectively.  The  average  difference  of  the  highest  high  and  lowest  low 
waters  of  the  same  day  is  5. 6  feet,  and  when  the  moon' s  declination  is  greatest  6. 6  feet.  The 
highest  high  tide  in  the  twenty-four  hours  occurs  about  9/i.  10?tt.  after  the  moon's  upper  transit 

"Named  by  Vancouver  in  1793. 

•f-  When  Vancouver  was  seeking  for  San  Pedro  bay  he  found  such  deep  water  off  Point  Vincente  that  he  thought  this 
could  not  be  near  the  place;  but  aft«r  getting  to  the  south  and  east  he  had  a  full  view  of  the  anchorage.  He  did  not, 
however,  enter  it. 


TU£   UNITED  STATES   COAST   SURVEY.  9 

(southjnp)  when  tho  moon's  declination  is  north,  luid  ubout  3A.  IGm.  before  when  south.    The 
hnvest  of  tlio  low  waters  occurs  uhout  7  hours  after  tho  highest  high  tide. 

The  town  of  Los  Angeles  is  22  miles  north  by  the  road,  from  San  Pedro,  and  is  tho  centre  of 
an  extensive  grazing,  agricultural,  and  grape  growing  country. 

The  quantity  of  grapes  and  fruit  generally  shipped  to  San  Francisco  during  the  proper 
season  is  already  enormous,  supporting  two  large  coast  steamers.  At  all  scasons.one  steamer 
finds  a  profitable  trade.  The  coasting  trade  of  this  place  is  now  greater  than  the  aggregate 
trade  of  all  tho  other  ports  south  of  San  Francisco.  Regular  communication  is  maintained  ■9nih 
San  Francisco  and  other  ports  by  steamers  and  lines  of  sailing  vessels. 

Over  100,000  gallons  of  wine,  and  5,000  gallons  of  brandy  were  produced  in  1854,  and  the 
culture  of  tho  grape  bids  fair  to  outstrip  all  others.  Cotton,  sugar  cano,  tobacco,  flax  and  the 
cereals,  yield  productive  crops;  and  the  olive  grows  in  abundance. 

Salt  works  have  been  established  within  a  few  miles  of  Los  Angeles,  but  the  pond  from  which 
the  salt  water  is  obtained  is  comparatively  small.     The  daily  product  is  about  five  tons. 

The  country  at  the  foot  of  the  back  hills  is  as  productive  as  any  in  California,  but  its  distance 
from  a  large  market  is  a  great  hindrance  to  investment  and  improvement.  The  vast  plains  are 
literally  covered  with  aattle,  and  many  of  the  rancheros  count  their  yearly  increase  by  thou- 
sands. These  cattle  are  driven  to  the  mining  districts  and  San  Francisco,  but  during  the  not 
unusual  droughts  of  summer  great  suffering  is  experienced,  and  groat  numbers  of  them  perish. 

The  Bay  of  San  Pedro  was  discovered  by  Cabrillo  in  1542,  and  was  called  the  Bay  of  Smoke, 
(Fumos.)  .Front  Point  Vincente  the  coast  trends  N.  by  W.  %  W.  for  about  17  miles;  thence  W. 
by  S.  to  Point  Dume,*  in  latitude  34°  N.,  and  longitude  118°  45'  W. ;  thence  to  Point  Conver- 
sion, (of  the  old  Spanish  navigators,)  18  miles  W.  J  N. 

Point  Duma  is  a  peculiarly  shaped  point,  whose  extremity  rises  into  a  dome-like  form,  whilst 
the  land  behind  it  falls  away,  so  that  in  making  it  from  the  west  it  rises  into  view  as  an  island. 

From  Point  Conversion  to  Buenaventura,  distant  13  miles,  the  coast  has  a  general  trend  NW. 
by  W.,  and  is  low,  flat,  and  sandy,  being  tho  opening  of  the  valley  of  Santa  Clara,  through  which 
flows  the  Santa  Clara  river.  This  streiun  is  nearly  dry  during  the  summer,  and  terminates  in 
lagoons  and  marshes,  but  in  the  rainy  season  a  volume  of  water  is  brought  down  having  sufii- 
cient  force  to  break  through  the  narrow  sand  beach  and  flow  into  the  ocean.  Tho  configuration 
of  tho  coast  is  shown  on  the  Coast  Survey  reconnaissance  sheet  published  in  1852. 

The  erection  of  a  sea-coast  light  at  or  near  Point  Conversion  has  been  recommended  to  the 
Light-house  Board  by  the  Superintendent  of  the  Coast  Survey. 

There  is  excellent  holding  ground  off  Buenaventura  in  10  fathoms,  but  the  landing  is  not 
good. 

TItc  Mission  of  San  Buaiaventura  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  dividing  ridge  of  the  valleys 
of  San  Buenaventura  and  Santa  Clara,  about  a  half  a  mile  from  the  shore.  Its  approximate' 
geographical  position  is: 

o      / 
Latitude 34  15  north. 

Longitude 119  15  west. 

Fifteen  miles  westward  of  Buenaventura,  on  tho  coast,  there  is  a  rich  deposit  of  sulphur, 
surface  specimens  of  which  have  yielded  60  per  cent.     Around  the  locality  are  found  ashes 

o  So  called  by  Vaocourer,  in  1793. 


10  EEPOET  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

and  scoriae.     The  ground  is  so  hot  as  to  be  painful  to  the  feet,  and  the  gas  emitted  is  almost 
suffocating. 

SANTA  BARBARA. 

From  San  Buenaventura  to  Santa  Barbara  the  distance  is  23  miles,  and  the  bearing  nearly 
W.  by  N. 

Santa  Barbara  is  an  open  roadstead  for  all  except  northerly  winds,  which  are  unfrequent. 
On'the  west  side  of  the  long,  low,  sandy  beach  is  a  bold  bluff,  called  Point  Felipe.*  The  hill 
rising  behind  it  is  called  La  Vigia. 

The  landing  is  on  the  beach  about  half  a  mile  east  of  Point  Felipe;  the  shore  is  very  low  and 
flat  as  far  as  the  town,  three-quarters  of  a  mile  distant,  but  gradually  rises  to  the  Mission, 
which  is  a  pi'ominent  object,  about  two  miles  inland. 

Vessels  coming  from  the  westward  first  sight  La  Vigia,  and,  upon  approaching  the  anchor- 
age, keep  outside  of  the  line  of  kelp,  (here  nearly  half  a  mile  wide, )  gradually  rounding  the  point 
upon  which  is  sitiiated  the  light-hoitse,  two  miles  southwesterly  of  the  landing,  keep  along  the 
kelp  until  abreast  of  the  town  and  anchor  in  7  fathoms;  or  pass  through  the  kelp  and  anchor 
on  the  inside  in  3J  fathoms,  both  hard  bottom.  In  anchoring  far  enough  off  to  get  9  or  10 
fathoms  the  bottom  will  be  found  sticky.  A  hydrographic  sketch  of  the  vicinity  was  published 
by  the  Coast  Survey  in  1855. 

No  dangers  have  been  discovered  in  the  kelp  off  this  beach. 

With  the  least  swell  the  surf  on  the  beach  is  a  bad  one,  not  falling  square  on,  but  cutting  it 
at  a  sharp  angle. 

In  winter,  vessels  must  anchor  outside  of  the  kelp,  as  the  gales  detach  and  drive  it  shoreward 
in  such  vast  quantities  that,  coming  across  a  vessel's  hawse,  it  helps  to  bring  home  her 
anchors. 

LIGHT-HOUSE   AT   SANTA   BARBARA. 

The  structure  consists  of  a  plastered  dwelling  of  one  and  a  half  stories,  with  a  low  tower, 
also  plastered,  rising  through  the  roof.  The  illuminating  apparatus  is  of  the  fourth  order  of 
the  system  of  Fresnel,  and  shows  a  fixed  red  light,  illuminating  the  seaward  half  of  the  horizon. 
It  is  situated  at  an  elevation  of  180  feet  above  the  sea,  two  miles  southwestwardly  from  the 
landing  on  the  beach,  and  183  yards  from  the  edge  of  the  bluff.  The  light,  as  seen  from  the 
sea,  will  be  projected  against  the  hill  rising  behind  it. 

On  account  of  the  red  color  of  the  light,  and  the  low  order  of  lens,  it  will  not  be  visible  for 
the  range  due  to  the  elevation,  but  should,  in  a  clear  atmosphere,  be  seen  at  a  distance  of  10 
or  12  miles.  It  was  first  exhibited  December  1,  1856,  and  shows  every  night  from  sunset  to 
'sunrise.     The  geographical  position,  as  given  by  the  Coast  Survey,  is: 

O         /         II 

Latitude 34  23  35  north. 

Longitude 119  42  05  west. 

h.  m.       t. 

Or,  in  time 7  58  48.3 

Magnetic  variation,  13°  30'  east  in  November,  1853;  yearly  increase,  1'.4. 

The  secondary  astronomical  station  of  the  Coast  Survej'  was  on  the  slight  grassy  rise  just  in 

♦'■So  called  by  Vancouver,  in  1793;  named  Point  CastiUo  on  the  Coast  Survey  charts. 


THE    UNITED    STATES    COAST    SURVEY.  11 

from  the  beach,  and  60  yard^  from  tho  west  side  of  the  rood   letiding   to  the  town.     Its 
position  is: 

O         I  II 

Latitude 34  24  24.7  north. 

Longitude 119  40  18.0  west. 

A.    m.     >. 

Or,  in  time 7  58  41.2. 

Santa  Barbara  is  a  town  of  considcniblo  size,  lying  in  the  middle  of  an  agricultural  tract, 
running  east  and  west,  at  tho  base  of  tho  Sierra  Concepcion,  but  of  limited  breadth.  Tho 
trade  with  San  Francisco  is  not  extensive;  but  this  being  one  of  tho  greatest  stock  raising 
districts  on  the  coast,  vast  droves  of  cattle  pass  through  and  are  sent  to  San  Francisco  and  the 
mining  districts. 

Tho  Mission  is  one  of  the  largest  and  best  establishpocnts  of  the  kind  in  California,  and  in 
tho  gardens  attached  to  it  tho  grape  and  olive  were  cultivated  with  success. 

A  largo  bitumen  pit,  about  8  miles  west  of  Santa  Barbara,  empties  directly  into  the  ocean, 
and  the  bitumen,  floating  on  the  water,  works  against  the  summer  or  northwest  winds  oven 
beyond  Point  Conception.  Sulphur,  in  large  beds  and  of  superior  quality,  exists  along  the  sea- 
board, and  manifests  itself  in  all  the  warm  springs. 

Wood  and  provisions  in  abundance  can  be  easily  obtained  here.  Water  is  plenty,  but  not 
BO  readify  procured. 

A  very  short  distance  back  from  the  coast  lino  is  a  range  of  rugged  hills,  over  2,000  feet 
high,  forming  part  of  the  Sierra  Concepcion,  whose  sides  are  sparsely  covered  with  timber, 
and  through  some  of  whose  gullies  and  gorges  pass  small  streams  abounding  in  the  finest  trout. 
From  others  issue  warm  springs  having  a  temperature  of  about  117°  Fahrenheit,  and  highly 
impregnated  with  sulphuretted  hj'drogen.  Tho  height  of  tho  springs  by  barometric  measure- 
ment is  about  1,200  feet. 

The  coast  trail  to  San  Francisco  passes  along  the  shore  for  a  distance  of  15  or  20  miles  to  tho 
Gaviota  pass;  thence  inland  to  the  Santa  Inez  valley,  which  runs  nearly  parallel  with  tho  coast. 

Regular  communication  by  steamerB  and  sailing  vessels  is  maintained  with  San  Francisco  and 
other  ports. 

In  1542  CabriUo  visited  this  place  and  found  great  numbers  of  Indians,  who  came  off  to  his 
ships  in  largo  canoes,  and  were  quite  hospitable.  Close  to  the  shore  he  found  an  Indian  town 
with  "cosos  grandes."     To  it  ho  gave  the  name  Pueblo  do  los  Canoas. 

Hie  coast  line  from  Santa  Barbara  Light  to  Point  Conception  Light  runs  W.  by  S.,  disbincc  37 
miles.  The  rugged  hills  westward  of  the  Gaviota  pass  come  close  to  the  shore,  forcing  tho 
traveller  to  leave  the  beach  for  their  sea  slope,  tho  trail  passing  over  steep  ridges  and  down 
deep  vsttisB. 

Point  Coxception  is  a  peculiar  and  remarkable  headland  at  the  western  entrance  to  the  Santa 
Barbara  channel.  Once  seen,  it  will  never  be  forgotten.  When  made  from  the  northward,  or 
from  the  eastward,  it  rises  as  an  island,  but,  upon  approach,  is  fotind  to  bo  a  high  promontory, 
stretching  boldly  out  into  the  ocean,  and  terminating  abruptly.  The  land  behind  it  sinks  com- 
paratively low,  and  at  first  gradually,  but  soon  rapidly  rises  to  the  mountains,  which  attain  an 
elevation  of  about  2,500  feet.  Between  three  and  four  hundred  yards  south  of  the  face  of  the 
cape  is  a  large  rock  awash,  upon  which  some  of  tho  California  steamers  have  struck  in  very 
foggy  weather.  A  topographical  sketch  of  the  point  accompanies  the  Superintendent's  report 
on  the  Coast  Survey  for  1851. 


12  REPORT   OF   THE   SUPERINTENDENT   OP 


LIGHT-HOUSE  AT  POINT  CONCEPTION. 

The  buildings  are  erected  on  the  extremity  of  the  cape  and  upon  the  highest  part,  which  is 
220  feet  above  the  sea,  and  covered  with  grass  and  bushes  like  the  land  behind.  As  seen  from 
the  southward  by  day  it  will  be  projected  against  the  Sierra  de  la  Concepcion,  and  appear 
about  one-third  of  their  height  from  the  water.  The  part  of  the  range  behind  the  light-house 
seems  very  level  along  its  summit,  and  the  house  is  seen  about  one-third  of  the  length  of  the 
level  range  from  the  western  part  of  it.  The  structure  consists  of  a  brick  dwelling  plastered, 
of  one  and  a  half  stories,  with  a  low  tower,  also  of  brick,  and  plastered,  rising  from  the  centre. 
The  light  was  first  exhibited  February  1,  1856,  and  shows  from  sunset  to  sunrise.  It  consists 
of  an  illuminating  apparatus  of  the  first  order  of  the  system  of  Fresnel,  and  exhibits  a  revolving 
white  light,  shoiving  a  flash  every  half  minute,  throughout  the  entire  sea  horizon.  It  is  elevated 
about  250  feet  above  the  sea,  and  should  be  visible,  in  a  favorable  state  of  the  atmosphere, 
from  a  height  of — 

10  feet  above  the  sea,  at  a  distance  of  21.8  miles. 

20  feet  above  the  sea,  at  a  distance  of  23. 3  miles. 

30  feet  above  the  sea,  at  a  distance  of  24.4  miles. 

60  feet  above  the  sea,  at  a  distance  of  27.1  miles. 

Its  geographical  position,  as  given  by  the  Coast  Survey,  is: 

Latitude,  34°  26'  47"  North. 
Longitude,   120°  27'  00"  West. 
Or,  in  time,  8A.  Olrw.  48.0s. 

Magnetic  variation,  13°  50'  East,  in  September,  1850;  yearly  increase,  1'.4. 

The  following  bearings  and  distances  are  taken  from  the  Coast  Survey  chart  of  this  locality, 
published  in  1853: 

The  rock  oif  the  west  end  of  the  San  Miguel  island,  S.  \  E.  distant  22  miles. 

The  east  end  of  San  Miguel  island,  SE.  by  S.  ^  S.,  distant  26  miles. 

The  southwest  end  of  Santa  Cruz  island,  SE.  by  E.  ^  E.,  distant  40  miles. 

Next  to  the  islands  of  the  Santa  Barbara  channel.  Point  Conception  is  the  most  prominent 
and  interesting  feature  between  San  Francisco  and  the  peninsula  of  Lower  California.  It  has 
very  justly  and  appropriately  been  termed  the  "Cape  Horn"  and  the  "Hatteras"  of  the 
Pacific,  on  account  of  the  heavy  northAvesters  that  are  here  met  with  on  coming  through  the 
channel,  with  a  great  change  of  climate  and  meteorological  conditions;  the  transition  being 
remarkably  sudden  and  well  defined.  An  investigation  of  the  temperature  of  the  ocean  north- 
west and  east  of  the  cape  would  be  highly  instructive,  as  some  characteristics  would  naturally 
be  expected  from  the  abrupt  change  in  the  direction  of  the  mountains  and  coast  line.  We  have 
frequently  seen  vessels  coming  from  the  eastward  with  all  sail  sot,  and  light  airs  from  the  north, 
in  a  very  little  time  reduced  to  short  canvass  upon  approaching  the  cape,  and  vessels  from  the 
northwest  coming  before  a  spanking  breeze  lose  it  within  a  few  miles  after  passing  the  cape 
into  the  channel.  These  last  would  be  fortimate  in  reaching  Santa  Barbara  in  a  day.  We  have 
known  a  vessel  to  be  three  days  working  from  San  Buenaventura  to  Santa  Barbara,  whilst  a  ten 
knot  breeze  was  blowing  west  of  Point  Conception. 

During  some  summer  seasons  the  fog  is  almost  interminable,  but  more  particularly  among 
the  islands.     For  the  space  of  six  weeks,  with  clear  days  and  nights  at  the  Cape,  the  islands 


THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST   SURVEY.  13 

hftv©  been  invisible;  rising,  however,  to  an  elevation  of  1,000  or  1,500  feet,  the  observer 
plainly  eees  the  summits  of  tho  islands  over  the  sea  of  fog  which  envelops  them. 

When  tho  fogs  prevail,  they  generally  roll  in  from  seaward  at  sunset,  and  clear  away  about 
ten  o'clock  next  morning. 

Point  Conception  was  discovered  by  Cabrillo  in  1542,  and  called  Cape  Galera.  He  placed 
it  in  latitude  36^    N. 

The  extent  of  shore-line  from  the  southern  boundary  to  Point  Conception  is  about  250  miles. 

EL  COXO. 

Two  miles  east  of  Point  Conception  is  tho  anchorage  of  El  Coxo,  off  the  entrance  to  the 
valley  of  that  name.  This  anchorage  is  a  better  one  than  that  of  Santu  Barbara,  and  the  kelp 
is  not  so  compact.  After  passing  Point  Conception  from  tho  westward,  at  a  distance  of  about 
three-quarters  of  a  mile,  run  E.  by  N.,  and  gradually  round  the  bluff  one  mile  distant  from  the 
cape,  giving  it  a  berth  of  half  a  mile;  run  on  a  N.NE.  course  for  three-quarters  of  a  mile, 
when  the  valley  will  open  with  a  sjind  beach  off  it.  Anchor  outside  or  inside  tho  kelp  accord- 
ing to  the  choice  of  depth;  five  fathoms  being  obtained  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  shore, 
with  hard  sandy  bottom.     Ten  fathoms  water  will  be  found  half  a  mile  from  shore. 

A  hydrographic  sketch  of  the  anchorage  was  issued  from  the  Coast  Survey  Office  in  1852. 

There  is  a  large  rancho  at  El  Coxo,  and  it  is  one  of  the  very  best  tracts  for  grazing.  The 
beef  has  a  finer  flavor  and  more  delicacy  than  any  we  have  met  with  on  tho  coast.  At  the  head 
of  the  valleys  and  in  the  mountains  is  a  species  of  large  live  oak,  very  brash  when  newly  cut, 
but  growing  hard  by  seasoning.  Willow,  for  fuel,  and  water  can  be  obtained  here,  but  neither 
in  abundance.     The  water  is  disagreeable  to  the  taste. 

The  primary  astronomical  station  of  the   Coast  Survey  was  on  the  top  of  the   bluff,  and 

between  250  and  300  yards  W.  J  S.  from  the  mouth  of  the  creek.     Its  geographical  position 

is  ae  follows: 

o      (       // 
Latitude 34  26  56.3  north. 

Longitude 120  25  39  west. 

Jl.ni.       f. 

Or,  in  time 8  01  42.6. 

Magnetic  variation,  13°  50'  east,  in  September,  1850;  yearly  increase  l'-4. 
In  passing  this  valley  in  1793  Vancouver  saw  an  Indian  village,  the  inhabitants  of  which 
made  signs  for  him  to  land. 

ISLANDS   OF   THE   SANTA   BABBARA   CHANNEL. 

The  name  El  Canal  de  Santa  Barbara  was  given  by  Vizcaino,  in  December,  1602,  to  tho 
narrowest  part  of  the  channel  lying  east  and  west,  and  about  24  leagues  in  length. 

Until  the  Coast  Survey  first  examined  in  detail  the  islands  lying  off  the  main,  between  San 
Diego  and  Point  Conception,  nothing  accurate  was  known  of  their  number,  peculiarities,  extent, 
or  position.  Upon  all  maps,  of  as  recent  date  as  1850,  an  island  called  San  Juan  was  laid  down; 
and  upon  a  map  of  the  republic  of  Mexico,  compiled  in  the  United  States,  and  dated  1847,  we 
find  no  less  than  twelve  large  islands,  the  positions  and  extent  of  which  are  most  grotesquely 
erroneous.  The  island  of  San  Miguel,  the  most  western  of  tho  Santa  Barbara  group,  is  placed 
70  miles  SE.  of  Point  Conception,  instead  of  23  miles  SE.  by  S.  }  S.  The  same  general  remarks 
will  apply  to  the  roast  line  as  thereon  represented. 


14  EEPORT  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

Three  large  rivers  are  made  to  flow  into  the  sea  between  Santa  Barbara  and  San  Diego  bay, 
which  is  increased  in  size  to  20  miles  by  15,  and  running  north,  whilst  two  others  rival  it  in 
extent.  A  Russian  chart  published  in  1848  has  a  bay  and  river  on  the  east  side  of  Point 
Duma.  The  geographical  positions  given  previous  to  the  Coast  Survey  operations  are  remark- 
ably erroneous.  We  recollect  well  when  coming  upon  this  coast  of  finding  in  good  nautical 
authority  Point  Conception  over  six  miles  distant  from  the  latest  determination  in  latitude ; 
and  we  have  heard  of  more  than  one  vessel  reaching  California  with  only  a  school  atlas  for  a 
chart! 

In  Findlay's  Directory  for  the  Pacific  Ocean,  published  late  in  1851,  we  find  a  description  of 
the  already  mentioned  San  Juan  island,  but  it  does  not  give  it  a  very  definite  location.  It  may 
not  be  uninteresting  to  state  how  the  error  has  been  perpetuated.  The  first  notice  we  can  find 
of  this  island  is  its  discovery  by  Martinez,  in  1789,  on  his  passage  from  Monterey  to  San  Bias. 
The  next  time  it  turns  up  is  in  Vancouver,  vol.  II,  page  474,  where  the  following  account  is 
given: 

"At  the  distance  of  about  eight  leagues  somewhere  about  N.  55°  W.,  or  N.  60°  W.  from 
Point  de  la  Loma,  by  a  very  uncertain  estimation,  is  situated  an  island  called  St.  John's, 
between  which  and  the  coast  we  passed  without  seeing  it,  [although  he  previously  states  having 
seen  San  Clemente  and  Santa  Catalina,]  nor  did  we  observe  it  while  we  remained  at  anchor, 
excepting  on  one  very  clear  evening,  when  it  was  seen  from  the  Presidio  [of  San  Diego]  at  a 
time  when  I  was  unprovided  with  a  compass  or  any  other  means  of  ascertaining  its  direction, 
and  was  therefore  only  able  to  guess  at  its  situation. 

"It  appeared  to  be  low  and  flat;  is  but  seldom  seen  from  the  Presidio  of  San  Diego,  and  was 
undiscovered  until  seen  by  Martinez,  a  few  years  before,  in  one  of  his  excursions  along  the 
coast." 

As  Vancouver  has  plotted  this  island  on  the  line  from  Point  Loma  to  San  Clemente,  and  as 
it  is  generally  so  placed,  we  have  no  hesitation  in  assuming  that,  during  peculiar  states  of  the 
atmosphere,  the  top  of  San  Clemente  or  of  Santa  Catalina  has  been  mistaken  for  another 
intermediate  island. 

Having  visited  and  examined  San  Clemente,  Santa  Catalina,  San  Nicolas,  Santa  Cruz,  and 
San  Miguel,  we  found  them  offering  no  inducements  for  agriculture,  and  very  few,  indeed,  for 
raising  stock,  while  there  are  so  many  advantages  on  the  main.  In  a  few  words,  we  may 
characterize  their  disadvantages  as  want  of  water,  and  want  of  fuel,  with  high,  bold,  and  rugged 
sides,  which  in  many  places  become  precipitous.  The  surface  of  San  Miguel  and  Santa  Rosa 
is  rolling,  and  covered  with  grass  and  bushes;  the  mountains  of  Santa  Catalina  almost  inacces- 
sible, and  San  Nicolas,  and  San  Clemente,  composed  of  coarse  sandstone,  presenting  a  dry, 
sandy,  and  sterile  aspect. 

On  the  chart  of  the  coast  from  San  Diego  to  San  Francisco,  published  by  the  United  States 
Coast  Survey  in  1853,  a  remarkable  and  beautiful  exhibition  of  the  parallelism  between  the 
islands  and  the  adjacent  coast  is  presented.  The  four  islands,  Anacapa,  Santa  Cruz,  Santa 
Rosa,  and  San  Miguel,  with  the  rocks  7  miles  W.  by  N.  from  the  latter,  lying  broad  off"  the 
coast  between  San  Buenaventura  and  Point  Conception,  have  their  longer  axes  parallel  to  the 
trend  of  the  shore-line,  which  is  the  general  direction  of  the  Sierra  Concepcion  immediately 
behind  it.  In  Vizcaino' s  voyage,  this  parallelism  was  noted  west  of  Santa  Catalina,  "  where  a 
regular  row  of  islands  exist,  five  or  six  leagues  distant  from  each  other,  all  populous,  and  the 


TUE   UNITED   STATBS  COAST   SURVEY.  15 

inhabitants   trading  with   each  other  and   the  main;  and  the  islands  following  each  other  in 
the  same  direction  as  the  main  land." 

Cortez  shoal,  the  islands  of  Santa  Catalina,  San  Clemente,  San  Nicolas,  with  John  Begg's 
rock,  7  miles  from  its  northern  extremity,  have  their  longer  axes  NW.  by  W.,  and  parallel  to 
each  other;  whilst  the  island  of  Santa  Barbara  is  on  the  prolongation  of  the  longer  axis  of  San 
Clemente.  In  the  third  parallel  the  direction  becomes  perpendicular  to  the  first  described, 
for  from  latitude  33^  05'  N.  the  trend  of  the  coast  and  hills  southward,  through  the  longer  axis 
of  Point  Loma,  will  pass  through  Los  Coronados,  although  the  islands  lie  NW.  with  respect 
to  each  other. 

Navigators,  in  making  the  Santa  Barbara  channel  from  the  northwest,  readily  estimate  their 
approach  in  thick  foggy  weather  by  the  peculiar  odor  of  the  bitimien  which,  issuing  from  a 
largo  pit  on  the  shore  about  8  miles  west  of  Santa  Barbara  and  floating  upon  the  water,  works 
against  the  summer  winds  far  beyond  Point  Conception.  This  set  to  the  westward  is  found  to 
exist  for  about  four  miles  off  shore,  and  runs  at  a  maximum  velocity  of  a  mile  and  a  half  per 
ho>ir.  Further  out  the  current  is  variable,  but  even  there  its  greatest  velocity  is  attained  when 
running  to  the  westward.  Prom  Point  Conception  it  strikes  to  the  southward  and  westward, 
being  doubtless  influenced  by  a  current  from  the  coast. 

Vancouver  is  the  first  who  calls  attention  to  the  oitumen,  in  the  following  language,  vol.  II, 
page  449:  "The  surface  of  the  sea,  which  was  perfectly  smooth  and  tranquil,  was  covered 
with  a  thick  slimy  substance,  which,  when  separated  or  disturbed  by  any  little  agitation, 
became  very  luminous,  whilst  the  light  breeze  that  came  principally  from  the  shore  brought 
with  it  a  strong  smell  of  tar,  or  of  some  su^h  resinous  substance.  The  next  morning  the  sea 
had  the  appearence  of  dissolved  tar  floating  upon  its  surface,  which  covered  the  ocean  in  all 
directions  within  the  limits  of  our  view,  and  indicated  that  in  the  neighborhood  it  was  not 
subject  to  much  agitation." 

The  following  remarks  of  Sir  Edward  Belcher,  in  October,  1839,  are  taken  from  the  Voyage 
of  the  Sulphur,  vol.  I,  page  320 :  ' '  OflF  this  part  of  the  coast  to  the  westward  [of  Santa  Barbara] 
we  experienced  a  very  extraordinary  sensation,  as  if  the  ship  was  on  fire,  and  after  a  very  close 
investigation  attributed  it  to  a  scent  from  the  shore,  it  being  more  sensible  on  deck  than  below, 
and  the  land  breeze  confirming  this,  it  occurred  to  me  that  it  might  arise  from  naphtha  on  the 
surface." 

Among  the  islands,  as  far  as  San  Nicolas,  the  current  runs  to  the  southward,  and  there 
remains  little  doubt  that  the  steamship  Winfield  Scott  was  set  out  of  her  course  and  upon 
Anacapa  by  this  current.  On  the  Cortez  shoal  it  frequently  runs  against  the  NW.  wind  at 
the  rate  of  nearly  2  miles  per  hour.  At  other  times  it  has  been  found  to  run  in  an  opposite 
direction  nearly  as  strong. 

A  preliminary  chart  of  the  eastern  entrance  to  the  Santa  Barbara  channel  accompanied  the 
annual  report  of  the  Superintendent  of  the  Coast  Survey  for  1857. 

It  may  not  be  here  amiss  to  call  attention  to  the  abundance  of  mackerel  found  in  the  channel. 
We  have  seen  the  water  fairly  alive  with  them,  and  have  caught  them  by  hundreds.  Cray- 
fish of  very  large  size  are  found  in  great  numbers  along  the  shores. 

The  rainy  season  commences  in  the  early  part  of  November  and  continues  until  the  middle 
of  March.  The  quantity  of  rain  that  falls  does  not  average  over  15  inches.  During  that 
season  SE.  gales  prevail,  and  sometimes  during  the  summer  months  southerly  weather  will 
bring  up  heavy  rain. 


16  REPORT   OF   THE   SUPERINTENDENT   OF 

Commencing  at  the  southward,  the  first  object  that  claims  our  attention  is  the  dangerous 
bank  and  rocks  called  the  Cortez  shoal,  bearing  about  SW.  \  W.  from  the  southeast  end  of  the 
island  of  San  Clemente,  and  distant  50  miles.  The  extent  of  this  bank  has  been  sounded  out 
carefully  and  found  much  greater  than  the  early  examinations  led  us  to  suppose.  Within  the 
limits  of  the  50-fathora  curve  the  general  trend  is  parallel  with  the  islands  of  Santa  Catalina, 
San  Clemente,  and  San  Nicolas,  and  it  stretches  about  17  miles,  from  latitude  32°  24'  N., 
longitude  118°  59^'  W.,  to  latitude  32°  32'  N.,  longitude  119°  17^'  W.,  but  curves  slightly  to 
the  southwest.  It  has  an  average  and  nearly  uniform  width  of  3^  miles.  The  nature  of  the 
bottom  is  hard,  composed  of  white  sand,  broken  shells,  and  fine  coral  at  the  southeast  portion; 
and  sand  with  broken  shells  at  the  northwest.  The  shoalest  and  most  dangerous  part  is  that 
known  as  the  Bishop  rocks,  lying  5  miles  from  the  southeast  tail  of  the  bank,  and  having  but 
2J  fathoms  of  water  upon  them.  Around  this  danger  the  depth  increases  gradually,  and  in  an 
extent  of  2\  miles  in  the  general  direction  of  the  bank  reaches  but  15  fathoms.  The  geo- 
graphical position  of  these  rocks  is,  approximately : 

o       / 
Latitude 32     25|  north. 

Longitude 119     05    west. 

From  the  northwest  end  of  the  island  of  San  Nicolas  the  rocks  bear  SE.  \  S.,  distant  57 
miles;  and  from  the  southeast  end  of  the  island  of  San  Clemente  they  bear  SW.  |  S.,  distant 
46  miles. 

The  next  shoal  spot  is  one  of  10  fathoms,  about  the  middle  of  the  bank,  and  of  limited  extent, 
being  only  half  a  mile  square  Avithin  the  15-fathom  "curve.  Its  geographical  position  is,  approxi- 
mately : 

o        / 

Latitude 32     26|  north. 

Longitude 119     10^  west. 

From  the  northwest  end  of  San  Nicolas  the  spot  last  mentioned  bears  SE.  by  S. ,  distant  54 
miles;  and  from  the  southeast  end  of  San  Clemente  it  bears  SW.  \  W.,  distant  50  miles. 
From  the  Bishop  Rocks  it  bears  W.  5-  N. ,  distant  5  miles. 

To  the  northwestward  of  this  latter  shoal  spot  the  depth  is  nearly  uniform  at  49  fathoms  for 
7^  miles,  and  between  it  and  the  Bishop  Rocks  the  depth  is  uniform  at  about  43  fathoms. 

Upon  this  bank  the  current  is  variable,  frequently  setting  against  the  strong  NW.  winds 
with  a  velocity  of  nearly  2  miles  per  hour,  and  producing  at  all  times  a  heavy  swell,  and  even 
in  moderate  weather  breaking  heavily  upon  the  rocks.  In  passing  over  the  bank  at  night  we 
have  been  sensible  of  our  proximity  to  it  by  the  increased  swell.  In  the  detailed  examination 
of  1856  it  was  found  that  the  general  set  of  the  current  was  to  the  southward  and  eastward, 
and  the  greatest  velocity  a  mile  and  a  half  per  hour;  but  no  statement  is  made  concerning  the 
prevailing  wind. 

A  chart  of  Cortez  shoal  was  published  in  the  Coast  Survey  report  for  1856. 
The  existence  of  this  bank  had  been  reported  several  times,  and  the  following  positions  were 
assigned : 

Swift's  island,  latitude  33°;  longitude  119°  06',  as  seen  by  Captain  Aulick,  U.  S.  N. 
Rock,  latitude  32"  30';  longitude  119°  06';  no  authority. 
Bank,  latitude  32°  28';  longitude  118°  42';  no  authority. 


THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST   SURVEY.  17 

It  lies  in  the  direct  route  now  followed  by  the  Panama  and  San  Francisco  steainsbips,  and 
was  diiicovered  by  Captain  Cropper,  of  the  stoanisliip  Cortez,  in  March,  1853.  Ho  says  that 
tlio  water  around  it  was  in  violent  comaiotiou,  and  thrown  up  suddenly  in  columns  at  regular 
intervals  of  four  or  five  minutes.  At  first  he  thought  he  saw  breakers;  and  occasionally  the 
water  broke  as  on  a  reef,  but  he  became  confident  the  disturbance  was  owing  to  submarine 
volcanic  agency.  The  ppecimens  of  the  bottom  negative  this  idea.  Ho  found  his  depth  of 
water  reduced  from  42  fathoms  to  9,  which  convinces  us  that  he  was  on  the  shoal  spot,  about  tlie 
middle  of  the  bank,  and  saw  the  water  breaking  upon  the  Bishop  Rocks,  the  same  appearance 
that  be  witnessed  having  been  seen  many  times  since  by  others,  and  the  nature  of  the  rocky 
bottom  and  depth  of  water  supporting  the  assumption.  The  position  of  the  bank  was  after- 
wards closely  determined  by  the  commander  of  the  steamship  Pacific.  The  locality  was  gone 
over  by  a  steamer,  and  no  depth  less  than  42  fathoms  found;  but,  upon  a  more  minute  examina- 
tion being  ordered,  the  10  fathom  spot  was  found,  and  the  surveying  schooner  assigned  to  that 
duty  was  anchored  on  it  five  days. 

Attention  was  subsequently  called  to  a  more  extended  examination  of  the  vicinity  by  the 
clipper  ship  S.  S.  Bishop,  (now  Grey  Eagle,)  of  Philadelphia,  striking  upon  one  of  the  rocks, 
since  called  by  her  name,  (1855,)  and,  under  unfavorable  circumstances,  two  points  of  rock 
were  supposed  to  exist,  to  which  approximate  positions  were  assigned.  In  1856  the  bank  was 
sounded  out  to  the  extent  of  1.30  square  miles;  and  from  a  consideration  of  the  highly  favorable 
circumstances  under  which  this  last  survey  was  made,  confidence  is  expressed  that  the  point  of 
rocks  above  mentioned  is  the  only  one  existing;  but  as  it  is  very  difiicult  to  find  detached  single 
points  of  rock  below  the  surface  in  a  sea  way,  we  shall  not  be  surprised  if  others  be  eventually 
found.  At  all  events  the  prudent  navigator  will  give  this  bank  a  good  berth.  Ite  existence 
forcibly  suggests  the  probability  that  other  submarine  ridges  may  lie  parallel  to  the  coast. 

ISLAND   OF   SAN   CLEMENTE. 

This,  like  all  the  islands  of  the  Santa  Barbara  channel,  is  high  and  bold,  the  southern  end 
being  the  higher,  and  gradually  falling  to  the  northward. 

The  general  trend  of  the  island  is  NW.  by  W. ;  its  length  17  miles,  with  an  average  and 
nearly  uniform  breadth  of  4  miles,  and  42  miles  in  circuit. 

The  southwest  point  of  the  island  bears  W.  ^  S.  from  Point  Loma,  distant  60  miles.  At  the 
northwest  end  is  a  small  indentation  of  the  shore-line  forming  an  anchorage,  having  a  width  of 
three-quarters  of  a  mile,  by  half  a  mile  in  depth,  with  soundings  decreasing  from  12  fathoms, 
on  the  line  of  a  large  rocky  islet  at  the  NW.  side  to  a  point  E.  by  S.,  to  4  and  5  fathoms  close 
in  shore.  Kelp  will  be  found  in  10  fathoms,  but  the  bottom  is  tolerably  regular  and  hard.  It 
is  anything  but  a  pleasant  or  safe  anchorage  in  bad  NW.  weather,  and  even  in  heavy  southerly 
weather  the  swell  must  roll  in  disagreeably.  A  hydrographic  sketch  of  it  was  issued  from  the 
Coast  Survey  Oflice  in  1852. 

Under  the  SE.  end  of  the  island  anchorage  may  be  had  in  the  deepest  part  of  the  indentation, 
but  the  bottom  is  rocky  and  irregular.  The  SE.  point  is  a  vast  sandstone  pyramid,  and  when 
it  is  brought  to  bear  north,  and  the  shore  three-quarters  of  a  mile  distant,  thp  anchorage  will 
lie  W.  by  X.  ^  N.  one  and  three-quarter  mile  inside  the  kelp,  in  10  to  15  fathom.s,  and  one- 
third  of  a  mile  from  the  narrow  sand  beach  at  the  foot  of  the  clifls.  Outside  of  the  kelp  the 
depth  ranges  from  10  to  30  fathoms. 
3 


18  *        EEPOET  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

This  anchorage  will  afford  protection  in  heavy  northwest  weather.  A  chart  of  it  accompa- 
nies the  annual  report  made  for  1856  by  the  Superintendent  of  the  Coast  Survey. 

The  soundings  around  the  island  show  a  depth  of  from  36  to  130  fathoms  close  in  shore, 
except  olf  the  northwest  point,  from  which  a  reef  makes  out  about  a  mile. 

The  Coast  Survey  secondary  astronomical  station  was  at  the  northwest  anchorage,  on  the 
grassy  rise,  just  inside  of  the  high  water  line,  and  bore  S.  17°  E.  from  the  north  point  of  the 
rocky  islet  before  mentioned.     Its  geographical  position  is — 

o  /  // 

Latitude 33     02     00  north,  (approximate.) 

Longitude 118     34     00  west. 

h.       n.         s. 

Or,  in  time 7     54     16.0. 

Neither  wood  nor  water  can  be  had  here.  The  whole  island  appears  unfit  for  raising  stock, 
on  account  of  the  want  of  water.     Very  few  trees  are  found,  and  the  aspect  is  sterile. 

This  island  was  discovered  by  Cabrillo  in  1542,  and  called  by  him  San  Salvador,  after  one  of 
his  two  vessels.     The  present  name  was  given  by  Vizcaino  in  1602. 

ISLAND   OF   SANTA   CATALINA. 

This  island  rises  to  a  height  of  about  3,000  feet,  and  is  remarkable  for  the  great  transverse 
break  or  depression,  five  miles  from  the  northern  end,  running  partly  through  it,  and  forming 
an  anchorage  or  cove  at  each  side.  The  land  connecting  these  is  very  low,  say  not  over  30  feet; 
but  the  hills  rise  up  on  each  side  two  or  three  thousand  feet,  and,  when  sighted  from  the  north 
or  south,  the  whole  appears  like  two  very  high  islands.  The  view  on  the  Coast  Survey  chart 
of  1852  shows  this  very  beautifully,  and  is  highly  characteristic.  The  general  trend  of  the 
island  is  W.  by  N.  |  N. ;  its  length  17^  miles,  with  an  average  breadth  of  4  miles  to  the 
southern  part,  and  2  miles  to  the  northern,  while  the  shore-line  amounts  to  about  42  miles. 

The  depression  in  the  island  bears  S.SW.  from  Point  Fermin,  and  is  distant  18^  miles. 

The  harbor  or  cove  on  the  southern  side,  5  miles  from  the  northern  end,  is  only  about  one- 
third  of  a  mile  in  width,  but  its  approaches  are  bold,  and,  so  far  as  known,  free  from  hidden 
dangers.  To  find  it,  run  along  the  SW.  side  of  the  island  and  make  the  depression;  then  stand 
in  for  the  opening,  keeping  a  little  left  of  mid  channel  until  a  third  of  a  mile  inside  of  the 
heads.  From  thence  keep  in  mid  channel  until  abreast  of  the  long,  low  point  on  the  right,  and 
anchor  in  5  fathoms,  soft  bottom.  There  is  a  depth  of  3  fathoms  inside  of  the  low  point,  with 
hard  bottom,  but  not  room  enough  for  a  vessel  to  swing.  If  the  wind  is  blowing  from  the  NW. 
vessels  will  lose  it  at  the  heads,  and  perhaps  require  to  be  towed  in. 

The  anchorage  on  the  north  side  of  the  depression  is  also  small,  with  a  reef  in  the  centre 
and  two  large  outlying  rocks.  A  steamer  could  run  in  on  the  west  side  of  the  rocks,  and 
anchor  off  the  low  beach  in  10  fathoms,  when  the  reef  would  lie  N.  by  E.  from  her,  distant 
an  eighth  of  a  mile.  Small  craft  will  here  find  protection  from  the  prevailing  winds,  but 
experience  difficulty  in  getting  out,  as  there  is  always  a  swell  setting  in,  and  the  wind  blows 
in  flaws  and  ed4ies  on  account  of  the  high  hills.  Between  the  two  points  forming  the  anchor- 
age the  distance  is  half  a  mile,  and  the  depth  one-third. 

The  soundings  around  the  island  show  bold  water,  from  19  to  75  fathoms,  close  in  shore, 
with  no  outlying  rocks  except  off  the  north  cove.  The  shores  are  rocky,  and  on  the  southern 
side  fearfully  abrupt,  but  on  the  northern  shore  there  are  several  indentations,  where   boats 


TBE  UNITED   STATES  COAST   8UBVEY.  19 

may  land  at  almost  any  season.  Deop  and  precipitous  gulches  are  formed  by  the  ridges  of 
rofk  running  diagonally  across  the  island  from  NB.  to  SW.,  and  occasionally  a  small  valley 
varies  the  scene.  Four  or  five  settlors  cultivate  these  spots,  but  their  inconsiderable  extent 
precludes  the  realizing  of  anything  beyond  a  bare  sustenance.  About  midway  between  the 
NW.  extremity  of  the  island  and  the  great  break  there  is  a  spring  of  good  water,  and  at  the 
SE.  point  good  water  has  been  obtained  by  sinking  wells  to  a  depth  of  fifty  feet  or  more,  but 
in  the  intermediato  places  water  found  at  the  same  dei)th  is  brackish.  There  is  a  largo  pond 
on  the  low  land  between  the  two  anchorages,  but  the  water  is  very  brackish.  Scrub-oak  is 
obtained  for  fire-wood,  and  a  growth  of  thorny  bushes  covers  the  whole  island,  rendering 
travelling  very  difticult.  The  island  was  partially  stocked  with  cattle  and  sheep,  and  at  one 
time  vast  numbers  of  wild  goats  abounded,  but  they  have  helped  to  supply  the  California 
market  with  fresh  meat. 

Prom  the  north  end  of  the  near  largo  rock  at  the  north  cove,  the  Coast  Survey  secondary 
astronomical  station,  which  was  on  the  edge  of  the  bank,  bore  S.  25°  W.  Its  geographical 
position  is — 

Latitude * 33  26  34.7  north. 

Longitude 118  28  45.0  west. 

h.    m.       I. 

Or,  in  time 7  53  55.0. 

This  island  was  discovered  by  Cabrillo  in  1542,  and  called  by  him  La  Victoria,  after  one  of  his 
two  vessels.  It  received  its  present  name  from  Vizcaino  in  December,  1G02,  when  it  was 
thickly  inhabited  by  a  people  reported  to  be  very  ingenious,  particularly  in  pilfering  and  con- 
cealing ;  some  examples  of  which  accomplishments  they  gave  the  Spaniards.  Padre  de  la 
Ascencion,  who  accompanied  this  expedition,  gives  very  particular  descriptions  of  a  kind  of 
temple  to  the  sun,  with  images  and  idols,  found  near  the  two  coves. 

ISUND  OF  SANTA  BAKBARA. 

This  is  one  of  the  only  two  small  islands  of  the  Santa  Barbara  group.  It  lies  on  the  line 
between  the  north  end  of  San  Clemente  and  the  east  end  of  Santa  Cruz,  and  almost  exactly 
halfway  between  them.  From  the  north  end  of  Santa  Catalina  it  bears  W.  by  S.,  distant 
23  miles. 

The  extent  of  the  island  would  not  exceed  two  miles  of  shore-line;  its  elevation  at  the  highest 
part  is  about  500  feet,  and  the  top  has  an  area  of  about  thirty  acres  covered  with  soil,  but  no 
water  is  found,  and  not  a  vestige  of  wood.  The  shores  are  rocky  and  abrupt,  presenting  on 
the  northeast  and  south  sides  perpendicular  cliffs  exposed  to  the  full  force  of  the  ocean  swell. 

Landing  is  at  all  times  difBcult  and  dangerous.  The  water  around  it  is  deep,  and  there  are 
no  outlying  rocks.     Its  approximate  geographical  position  is — 

o      / 

Latitude 33  30  north. 

Longitude 119  02  west. 

ISLAND  OF  SAN  NICOLAS. 

Of  the  channel  islands  this  is  the  most  distant  from  the  coast,  as  well  as  the  driest  and  most 
sterile.  It  is  high,,  abrupt,  and,  like  San  Clemente,  comparatively  flat  topped,  but  falling  to 
the  soatheru  end.  /  The  sides  are  bold  and  precipitous,  and  composed  of  coarse  sandstone. 


^  REPORT   OF   THE   SUPERINTENDENT   OF 

Its  general  direction  is  W.NW.;  its  length  is  8  miles,  with  an  average  and  nearly  uniform 
width  of  3^  miles,  whilst  the  extent  of  shore-line  is  about  22  miles. 

The  north  point  of  the  island  bears  SE.  by  E.  from  Point  Fermin,  distant  67  miles;  the  line 
passing  one  mile  south  of  the  island  of  Santa  Barbara. 

At  the  north  end  of  San  Nicolas  heavy  breakers  make  out  two  miles  and  a  half,  and  the 
soundings  towards  Begg's  Rock  show  irregular  and  rocky  bottom.  Breakers  also  extend  from 
the  southern  point  to  the  distance  of  a  mile  and  three-quarters,  according  to  Kellet.  This  is 
doubtless  the  case  in  heavy  weather. 

The  soundings  around  the  island  show  depths  varying  from  10  to  48  fathoms. 

Oif  the  southeast  point,  which  is  low  and  sandy,  vessels  may  anchor  in  10  fathoms,  hard 
bottom,  with  a  current  running  steadily  to  the  southward,  which  makes  the  landing  bad,  as 
the  surf  cuts  the  beach  at  an  acute  angle. 

The  Coast  Survey  secondary  astronomical  station  was  on  the  sandy  point  just  referred  to, 
and  its  geographical  position  determined  as  follows: 

Latitude 33  14  12.9  north. 

Longitude 'lig  25  00.0  west. 

h.      m.     J. 

Or,  in  time 7  57  40.0. 

This  island  was  not  seen  by  Vancouver  in  1793. 

The  Begg  Rock  is  situated  on  the  prolongation  of  the  longer  axis  of  the  island  of  San 
Nicolas,  bearing  NW.  by  W.  ^  W.  from  its  nearest  (NW.)  point,  and  distant  7  miles.  The 
rock  is  about  40  feet  high,  bold  and  well  defined,  and  can  be  easily  seen  at  a  distance  of 
ten  miles.  The  soundings  between  it  and  the  island  indicate  the  existence  of  a  submarine 
ridge  connecting  them.     Its  approximate  geographical  position  is — 

o      I 

Latitude 33  22^  north. 

Longitude 119  39^  west. 

It  was  named  after  the  ship  John  Begg,  which  struck  upon  a  reef  near  it,  September  20, 
1824,  and  was  nearly  lost.  The  foul  bottom  is  covered  with  kelp.  The  position  of  the  rock 
relative  to  the  island  of  San  Nicolas  is  shown  on  the  general  chart  of  reconnaissance  published 
by  the  Coast  Survey  in  1852. 

ISLAND  OP  ANACAPA. 

This  is,  in  fact,  a  curiously  formed  group  of  three  islands,  extending  in  a  nearly  B.NE. 
direction,  their  entire  length  being  5  miles.  The  west  end  of  Anacapa  is  a  peak  930  feet  in 
height,  with  a  base  of  over  two  miles  by  three-quarters  of  a  mile.  This  is  separated  from 
the  middle  island  by  a  gap  ten  feet  wide,  through  which  boats  can  pass.  The  middle  island  is 
nearly  2  miles  long  by  500  yards  wide,  whilst  the  eastern  island  is  little  over  a  mile  long  by 
500  yards  wide.  The  gap  separating  the  middle  and  eastern  islands  is  over  200  yards  wide, 
but  so  completely  filled  with  rocks  as  to  be  impassable  for  boats,  which  can,  however,  land  on 
the  north  side  of  the  island. 

The  west  end  of  Anacapa  is  4^  miles  from  the  eastern  point  of  the  island  of  Santa  Cruz,  and 
bears  E.  ^  N.  from  it.  The  eastern  end  of  the  island  bears  SE.  |  E.  from  the  Santa  Barbara 
light,  distant  28  miles,  and  from  Point  Conversion  SW.  by  W.  14  miles. 

Anacapa  is  in  latitude  34°  01'  N.,  and  between  longitudes  119°  19'  and  119°  24'  "W.     Upon 


THB   UNITED   STAtES   COAST   8UBVET.  21 

it  the  site  for  a  light-hotue  has  been  recommended  by  the  Superintendent  of  the  United  States 
Coast  Survey. 

The  island  is  composed  of  coarse,  dark  gray  sandstone,  very  rotten  and  crumbling.  The 
aides  are  perpendicular,  and  from  250  to  300  feet  high.  The  main  peak  is  marked  on  the 
north  side  by  several  deep  gulches,  with  almost  vertical  sides  running  from  tlio  summit  to  the 
bluff.  The  whole  formation  is  filled  with  innumerable  cavities,  giving  it  the  appearance  of  an 
enormous  blackened  honey-comb.  At  the  eastern  extremity  is  found  a  very  beautiful  arch  in 
one  of  the  outlying  rocks.  This  is  well  shown  in  the  view  accompanying  the  Coast  Survey 
chart  of  the  vicinity  of  the  island  of  Anacapa  published  in  1856.  The  soil  is  loose  and  thin, 
producing  only  a  few  dwarfed  species  of  cactus  and  a  thick-leaved  succulent  plant  common  to 
the  seucoast  in  dry  sandy  localities.     Not  a  drop  of  water  is  to  bo  found  on  the  island. 

Anacapa  is  a  place  of  great  resort  for  the  seal,  sea  lion,  and  formerly  of  the  otter,  but  the 
latter  have  been  nearly  all  killed  off. 

It  was  on  this  island  that  the  steamship  Winfield  Scott  ran  ashore  during  a  dense  fog  at  mid- 
night, December  2,  1853,  in  calm  weather.  The  vessel  was  steaming  at  full  speed,  and  ran 
between  and  upon  the  rocks  with  such  force  that  she  remained  fast  by  the  bow  until  heavy 
weather  broke  her  up.  The  course  of  the  steamer  had  been  taken  from  Point  Conception,  but 
•without  a  knowledge  of  the  currents. 

Vancouver,  in  his  narrative,  calls  this  island  Enneeapah,  and  repeatedly  mentions  it  by  that 
name;  but  upon  the  chart  of  his  survey  and  explorations  it  is  engraved  Enecapah,  which  has 
given  rise  to  every  variety  of  spelling.  Old  Indians  at  the  present  time  pronounce  it  En-nee- 
ah-pagh',  with  a  very  strong  guttural  intonation. 

ISLAND  OP  SANTA  CRUZ. 

This  island  is  the  largest  of  the  channel  group,  and  lies  broad  off  the  coast  opposite  the  town 
of  Santa  Barbara,  at  a  distance  of  20  miles.  Its  general  direction  is  east  and  west,  with  a  length 
of  21  miles  and  an  average  width  of  4  miles,  while  the  extent  of  its  shore-line  is  not  less  than 
53  miles. 

On  the  northern  side  of  the  island,  and  near  the  middle,  the  shore  makes  a  moderately  deep 
curve,  forming  a  roadstead  called  Prisoner's  Harbor,  at  the  opening  of  a  valley,  where  plenty 
of  wood  and  water  can  be  obtained.  Anchorage  may  be  had  a  quarter  of  a  mile  off  the  middle 
of  the  beach  in  15  fathoms,  sandy  bottom;  but  there  is  no  protection  from  the  heavy  swell 
setting  in  with  a  northwester.  It  must,  ho%vever,  afford  excellent  refuge  in  southeast  weather. 
A  hydrographic  sketch  of  the  harbor  was  published  by  the  Coast  Survey  in  1852. 

The  soundings  around  the  island  show  deep  water  close  to  the  shore;  but  there  are  rocks 
showing  quite  plainly  one  mile  from  the  southwest  point.  A  chart  showing  the  hydrography 
of  the  eastern  end  of  the  island  was  published  by  the  Coast  Survey  in  185G. 

The  island  is  bold,  and  about  2;^0  feet  in  height.  Its  eastern  part  is  extremely  irregular, 
barren,  and  destitute  of  water;  and  the  surface  of  the  northeastern  portion  is  thickly  strewn 
with  large  angular  pieces  of  stone,  broken  as  if  with  a  hammer.  Several  species  of  cactus  and 
some  of  the  coarse  grasses  flourish.  The  only  wild  animal  found  here  is  a  small  gray  fox,  of 
which  there  are  great  numbers. 

Santa  Cruz  island  is  composed  of  coarse,  dark  gray  sandstone,  crumbling  and  rotten,  like 
that  of  Anacapa. 


22  REPORT  OF  THE  SUPERFNTENDENT  OF 

The  Coast  Survey  secondary  astronomical  station  was  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  fresh  water. 
Its  geographical  position  is — 

o        '        " 

Latitude 34  01  10.2  north. 

Longitude 119  40  00      west. 

h.      m.     t. 

Or,  in  time 7  58  40 

From  the  Santa  Barbara  light  we  have  the  following  bearings  and  distances: 

East  point  of  Santa  Cruz  island  SE.  §  S.,  distance  24  miles. 

Prisoner's  harbor  S.  by  E.  ^  E.,  distance  22  miles. 

West  point  of  Santa  Cruz  island  S.  by  W.  ^  W.,  distance  21  miles. 

A  site/or  a  ligld-house  at  the  eastern  end  of  the  island  has  been  reported  upon  and  recom- 
mended by  the  Superintendent  of  the  Coast  Survey  to  the  Light-house  Board. 

This  island  was  called  Juan  Rodriguez  by  Perrelo,  who  commanded  the  ships  of  Cabrillo 
after  his  death,  which  took  place  either  in  Prisoner's  harbor  or  in  Cuyler's  harbor,  (island  of 
San  Miguel.)  The  greater  probability  rests  with  the  former,  as  there  they  could  obtain  water, 
and  oak  wood  for  repairs,  &c. ,  while  neither  is  to  be  had  in  the  last  mentioned  harbor,  except 
water  during  the  rainy  season. 

The  group  comprising  Santa  Cruz,  Santa  Rosa,  and  San  Miguel  was  discovered  and  called 
San  Lucas  by  Cabrillo  in  1542. 

ISLAND   OF   SANTA   ROSA. 

This  is  the  middle  island  of  the  group  off  the  coast  between  Santa  Barbara'  and  Point 
Conception.  Its  general  shape  is  that  of  a  parallelogram,  with  the  direction  of  the  longer 
axis  almost  exactly  east  and  west,  and  fifteen  miles  in  length;  and  the  shorter  north  and  south, 
giving  it  a  width  of  ten  miles.     The  extent  of  shore-line  is  about  42  miles. 

On  the  northwest  side  of  the  island,  and  midway  between  the  north  and  west  points,  a  reef 
extends  out  for  a  distance  of  a  mile  and  a  quarter. 

There  is  a  good  passage  between  Santa  Cruz  and  Santa  Rosa,  Avith  a  width  of  five  miles,  and 
one  between  it  and  San  Miguel  of  four  miles.  Both  passages  are  frequently  used  by  the 
California  and  Panama  steamships. 

The  soundings  around  the  island  do  not  show  as  deep  water  as  around  the  others.  On  the 
northwest  and  northeast  sides  from  fifteen  to  twenty  fathoms  are  found  two  miles  from  shore, 
but  on  the  southeast  and  southwest  sides  the  water  is  much  deeper. 

The  outline  of  the  island  is  bold,  but  not  so  high  as  Santa  Cruz.  The  hills  are  rolling,  and 
covered  with  coarse  grass  and  bushes.  No  harbors  exist  around  its  shores,  which  are  steep 
and  broken.  The  relative  position  of  Santa  Rosa  in  the  group  of  the  Santa  Barbara  islands  is 
shown  on  the  reconnaissance  chart  of  the  Coast  Survey  published  in  1853. 

The  approximate  geographical  position  of  the  south  point  of  the  island  is^ 

o      / 

Latitude  • 33  53  north. 

Longitude 120  04  west. 

For  the  western  point  we  have — 

o      / 

Latitude 33  58^  north. 

Longitude 120  12J  west. 


THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST   SURVEY.  23 

On  some  early  Spanish  charts  the  western  two  of  the  Santa  Barbara  islands  are  called  San 
Mijiuel  and  Santa  Rosa,  (naming  the  western  first,)  and  upon  others  Santa  Barbara  and  San 
Miguel.     The  present  names  and  order  are  those  adopted  by  Vancouver  in  1793. 

ISLAND   OF   BAN   MIGUEL. 

This  is  the  western  of  the  Santa  Barbara  Channel  islands,  its  longer  axis  lying  E.  ^  N., 
and  7.J  miles  in  length,  with  an  average  breadth  of  2.J  miles.  The  extent  of  shore-line  is  21 
miles.  Its  western  extremity  is  bold  and  narrow,  gradually  increasing  in  breadth  until  it 
attains  3}  miles.  The  eastern  face  is  nearly  straight  for  2  miles  ;  the  southern  face  is  nearly 
straight  along  its  whole  length,  with  higli,  abrupt  shores;  and  from  30  to  37  fathoms  wat«r  are 
found  close  in  shore.  On  the  NE.  side  of  the  island  is  the  small  bay  called  Cuyler's  harbor,  off 
which  lies  a  rock  or  islet  more  than  a  fourth  of  a  mile  long,  and  several  hundred  feet  high. 
From  this  islet  to  the  deepest  part  of  the  harbor  the  distance  is  a  mile  and  a  quarter,  and  the 
couraB  SW.  Close  under  the  western  side  of  the  harbor  is  anchorage  in  6  fathoms,  secure 
from  every  wind  except  the  north,  which  rarely  blows  here.  The  eastern  part  of  the  bay  is 
full  of  rocks  and  reefs,  and  ought  to  be  avoided.  The  reef  in  the  middle  of  the  bay  bears  SW. 
from  the  west  end  of  the  islet,  and  is  distant  half  a  mile.  It  is  the  same  distance  from  the 
west  point  of  the  bay,  near  the  anchorage,  and  bears  E.  by  S. 

A  hydrographic  sketch  of  Cuyler's  harbor  was  published  by  the  Coast  Survey  Office  in  1852. 

SW.  by  S.  J  S.  from  the  west  end  of  the  islet  is  a  rock,  with  rocky  bottom  distant  a  third 
of  a  mile;  and,  on  the  same  line,  another  half  a  mile  distant.  The  southern  part  of  the  islet 
is  about  half  a  mile  from  the  east  shore  of  the  bay.  The  bay  shores  are  high,  steep,  and 
rolling,  and  covered  with  coarse  grass  and  bushes.  There  is  no  water  here  in  summer,  but 
during  the  winter  water  drains  down  the  gully  at  the  beach  in  the  middle  and  southern  part  of 
the  harbor.  --' 

The  western  point  of  the  island  bears  S.  by  E.  ^  E. ,  distant  25  miles  from  Point  Conception, 
and  SE.  by  S.  J  S.,  distant  35  miles  from  Point  Arguello. 

A  seacoast  light  has  been  reported  upon  for  this  point  of  the  island,  and  the  Subject  referred 
to  the  Light-house  Board. 

Sheep  and  some  stock  have  been  placed  upon  San  Miguel,  but  the  success  of  the  experiment 
has  been  doubtful — certainly  unremunerativo.     A  peculiar  bobtail  fox  is  found  here. 

The  Coast  Survey  secondary  astronomical  station  is  on  the  SW.  part  of  Caylcr's  harbor, 
about  forty  feet  up,  on  the  side-hill.     Its  geographical  position  is — 

O         I        tl 

Latitude 34   03   00  north,  (approximate.) 

Longitude 120   20   27  west. 

A.      m.       I. 

Or,  in  time 8    0121.8. 

Tides. — The  corrected  establishment  or  mean  interval  between  the  time  of  the  moon's  transit 
and  the  time  of  high  water  is  IXA.  XXV wj.  The  mean  rise  and  fall  of  tides  is  3.7  feet;  of 
spring  tides  5.1  feet;  and  of  neap  tides  2.8  feet.  The  mean  duration  of  the  flood  is  6/i.  13//j., 
and  of  the  ebb  6A.  5m.  The  average  difference  between  the  corrected  establishment  of  the 
a.  m.  and  p.  m.  tides  of  the  same  day  is  lA.  40m.  for  high  water,  and  lA.  9m.  for  low  water. 
The  differences,  when  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest,  are  2A.  54m.  and  2A.  Vim.,  respectively. 
The  average  difference  in  height  of  these  two  tides  is  1.6  feet  for  the  high  waters,  and  2.5  feet 
for  the  low  waters.     When  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest  these  differences  are  2.6  feet  and 


24  REPORT   OF   THE   SUPERINTENDENT   OF 

3.6  feet,  respectively.  The  average  difference  of  the  highest  high  and  lowest  low  waters  of  the 
same  day  is  5.8  feet,  and  when  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest  6.8  feet.  The  highest  high 
tide  in  the  twenty-four  hours  occurs  about  8^.  35m.  after  the  moon's  upper  transit,  (southing,) 
when  the  moon's  declination  is  north,  and  about  3A.  51m.  before  when  south.  The  lowest  of 
the  low  waters  occurs  about  7^  hours  after  the  highest  high  tide. 

San  Miguel  was  discovered  by  Cabrillo  in  1542,  and  Cuyler's  harbor  is  supposed  by  some  to 
be  the  bay  in  which  he  wintered.  He  died  January  5,  1543,  having  directed  Bartolome  Ferrelo, 
his  pilot,  to  assume  the  command  of  the  expedition  and  continue  the  exploration  as  far  north 
as  possible.  Ferrelo  afterwards  named  the  island  in  whose  harbor  his  commander  had  wintered 
Juan  Rodriguez. 

Two  rocks,  showing  themselves  well  above  water,  lie  NW.  by  W.  from  the  western  extremity 
of  San  Miguel,  the  larger  being  distant  5  miles.  It  bears  S.  ^  E.,  distant  22  miles,  from  Point 
Conception,  and  S.SE.,  distant  30  miles,  from  Point  Arguello.  Off  the  inner  and  smaller  rock 
a  reef  extends  a  short  distance  to  the  southward  and  westward.  Deep  water  is  found  Ground 
the  rocks,  and  vessels  may  pass  between  them.  The  total  extent  of  shore-line  of  the  Santa 
Barbara  islands  is  about  232  miles. 

PROM  POINT   CONCEPTION,   NORTHWARD. 

The  first  headland  to  the  northward  of  Point  Conception  is  Point  ArgueUo*  distant  12 
miles,  and  bearing  NW.  by  W.  ^  W.  The  shore  is  bold  and  compact,  curving  slightly  to  the 
eastward  between  the  two  points,  and  the  mountains  immediately  behind  are  not  less  than 
3,000  feet  in  height.  Two  or  three  hundred  yards  off  Point  Arguello  are  some  detached  rocks, 
upon  which  the  steamship  Yankee  Blade  struck  and  was  lost.  Near  the  «ame  locality  the 
steamship  Edith  was  previously  wrecked.^j^TW,  . 

From  this  point  the  trend  of  the  coast  is  NW.  to  Point  Reyes,  240  miles  distant,  passing 
tangent  to  Point  Sur  in  latitude  36°  19^'  N.,  and  inside  the  South  Farallone  Island  light. 

Eight  miles  north  of  Point  Arguello  a  small  stream  empties  into  the  ocean.  It  was  considered 
by  Vancouver  the  largest  he  had  seen  south  of  the  Columbia,  but  it  is  insignificant  and  unim- 
portant. He  states  that  on  the  old  Spanish  charts  it  is  called  the  Rio  de  San  Balardo.  On  a 
recent  Russian  chart  we  find  it  called  the  river  Benardo.  On  the  Coast  Survey  charts  it  is 
designated  La  Purissima. 

The  first  point  northward  of  Point  Arguello  is  Point  Purissima,  off  which  makes  a  reef  about 
a  fourth  of  a  mile  to  the  S.SW.  This  is  known  on  the  coast  as  Point  Pedernales,  signifj'ing 
Point  of  Flints,  but  generally  and  erroneously  printed  Pedro  Nales.         <^- 

From  Point  Arguello  N.  by  W.  §  W.,  and  distant  19  miles,  is  Point  Sal,*  which  is  marked 
by  streaks  of  yellow  sand,  except  at  the  extreme  point.  The  extremity  is  formed  by  high, 
round,  black  rocks,  off  which  are  several  sunken  rocks,  extending  half  a  mile  to  the  southward 
and  westward.  This  stretch  of  the  coast  is  very  similar  to  that  behind  Conception  and 
Arguello,  but,  after  passing  Point  Sal,  the  mountains  fall  back,  and  the  shore  is  formed  of  sand- 
hills. The  general  bend  hence  is  north,  until  the  shore  commences  sweeping  westward  to  form 
the  bay  of  San  Luis  Obispo,  and  the  shores  become  high  and  abrupt. 

The  line  of  equal  magnetic  variation  of  14'^  east  cuts  the  coast  line  in  latitude  35°  01'  N.,  and 
crosses  the  meridian  of  121°  30'  W.  in  latitude  33°  55^'  N.  It  moves  annually  southward 
about  a  mile  and  a  half. 

"  So  named  by  Vancouver  in  1793. 


THK   UNITED   STATES  COAST   SURVEY.  25 

SAN  LUIS  OBISPO. 

Tins  bay  is  an  open  roadstead,  exposed  to  the  southward,  and  oven  during  heavy  northwest 
weather  a  bad  swell  rolls  in,  ronderinj;  it  an  uncomfortable  anchorage.  The  landing  is  frequently 
very  bad,  and  often  impracticable,  but  the  best  place  is  in  the  mouth  of  the  creek,  keeping  the 
rocks  at  its  mouth  on  the  starboard  hand.  Fresh  water  may  be  obtained  at  a  small  stream 
coming  ap-«fn  the  beach  half  a  mile  west  of  the  creek.  In  the  coarse  sandstone  bluff  between 
those  two  places  are  found  gigantic  fossil  remains. 

Off  Point  San  Luis,  which  forms  the  SW.  part  of  the  bay,  are  some  rocks,  and  in  making  the 
anchorage  vessels  should  give  this  point  a  berth  of  half  a  mile,  passing  in  6  to  8  fathoms ;  run 
on  a  N.  by  E.  course,  and  anchor  three-fourths  of  a  mile  from  shore  in  6  fathoms,  sticky  bottom ; 
4  fathoms  can  be  got  about  a  fourth  of  a  mile  from  the  beach.  In  winter  anchor  far  enough 
out  to  clear  Point  San  Luis,  if  a  southeaster  should  come  up.  During  southerly  weather  landing 
is  frequently  effected  at  the  watering  place,  when  impracticable  at  the  creek. 

A  preliminary  chart  of  the  harbor  of  San  Luis  Obispo  was  issued  from  the  Coast  Survey    ) 
Office  in  1852.  '— '       ^' 

The  distance  from  the  rock  off  Point  San  Luis  to  the  mouth  of  the  creek  is  a  mile  and  a  half; 
from  the  same  rock  to  a  white  rock  bearing  N.  70°  E.  the  distance  is  two  and  a  quarter  miles; 
and  a  black  rock  lies  halfway  between  the  white  rock  and  the  mouth  of  the  creek. 

The  Coast  Survey  secondary  astronomical  station  is  on  the  bluff  at  the  east  side  of  the  small 
fresh  water  stream,  west  of  the  creek,  and  its  geographical  position  is — 

O  I         II 

Latitude 35  10  37^  north. 

Longitude 120  43  31    west. 

A.   m.     a. 

Or,  in  time 8  02  54.1. 

Magnetic  variation  14°  17'  east  in  February  1854;  yearly  increase  1'.4 

Tides. — The  corrected  establishment  or  mean  interval  between  the  time  of  the  moon's  transit 
and  the  time  of  high  water  is  XA.  Vlllm.  The  mean  rise  and  fall  of  tides  is  3. 6  feet;  of  spring 
tides  4.8  feet;  and  of  neap  tides  2.4  feet.  The  mean  duration  of  the  flood  is  6A.  25m.  and  of  the 
ebb  bh.  58ni.  The  average  difference  between  the  corrected  establishments  of  the  a  m.  and  p  m. 
tides  of  the  same  day  is  lA.  24m.  for  high  water,  and  \h.  Om.  for  low  water.  The  differences  when 
the  moon' 8  declination  is  greatest  are  2/i.  Om.  and  l/j.  28m.,  respectively.  The  average  difference 
in  height  of  these  two  tides  is  1.5  feet  for  the  high  waters,  and  2.0  feet  for  the  low  waters.  When 
the  moon's  declination  is  greatest,  those  differences  are  2.0  feet  and  3.1  feet,  respectively.  The 
average  difference  of  the  highest  high  and  lowest  low  waters  of  the  same  day  is  5.4  feet,  and 
when  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest  6.1  feet.  The  highest  high  tide  in  the  twenty-four 
hours  occurs  about  9/(.  32m.  after  the  moon's  upper  transit  (southing)  when  the  moon's  declination 
is  north,  and  about  2/i.  54m.  before  when  south.  The  lowest  of  the  low  waters  occurs  about  7 
hours  after  the  highest  high  tide. 

The  town  of  San  Luis  Obispo  is  not  on  tlie  bay  but  is  situated  about  ten  miles  in  the  interior, 
in  the  middle  of  an  extensive  and  excellent  grazing  country.  Communication  is  maintained 
with  San  Francisco  and  other  ports  by  regular  steamers  and  lines  of  sailing  packets. 

The  bay  was  discovered  by  Cabrillo  in  1542,  and  called  by  him  Todos  Santos. 

To  the  northwest  of  the  Bay  of  .San  Luis  Obispo  rises  to  a  great  height  the  Monte  de  Btichon, 
which  is  readily  distinguished  in  coming  from  the  northward  or  southward. 
4 


2d  REPORT   OF   THE   SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

We  have  been  informed  by  old  otter  hunters  on  this  coast  that  there  exists  a  sunken  rock 
about  8  miles  S.SW.  from  Point  San  Luis,  and  furthermore  that  they  had  found  kelp  upon  it 
in  4  fathoms.  On  the  old  Spanish  charts  an  island  appears  laid  do^vn  in  that  direction,  but 
distant  about  eight  leagues.  One  of  the  Pacific  mail  steamships  laid  to  in  a  southeast  gale 
and  thick  fog,  off  Point  Conception,  and  drifting  to  the  northward  came  unexpectedly  upon  a 
sunken  rock,  upon  which  the  sea  was  breaking  heavily.  The  commander  supposed  the  vessel 
to  be  then  oiF  Point  Sal,  and  had  so  plotted  the  rock  upon  his  chart,  but  upon  being  informed 
of  the  alleged  existence  of  a  rock  off  San  Luis  Obispo,  he  was  satisfied  that  he  had  been  near 
it,  but  unfortunately  had  no  opportunity  of  determining  his  position. 

This  locality  demands  a  thorough  examination,  as  it  is  in  the  direct  track  of  the  whole  Cali- 
fornia trade  from  San  Francisco. 

From  Point  San  Luis  the  coast  trends  in  a  straight  line  W.NW.,  for  a  distance  of  8  miles, 
and  close  along  the  shore  of  this  stretch  are  several  large  rocks.  Thence  the  coast  trends 
abruptly  to  the  north,  running  to  the  high  conical  rock  called  El  Moro,  distant  8  miles — these 
two  shores  forming  the  seaward  base  of  Mount  Buchon. 

From  El  Moro  the  shore  line  gradually  trends  to  the  westward,  thus  forming  a  deep  indenta- 
tion or  bay,  called  Los  Esteros  on  the  old  Spanish  charts,  but  designated  as  the  Estero  Bay  on 
the  Coast  Survey  chart.  It  was  discovered  by  Cabrillo  in  1542,  and  here  he  obtained  wood 
and  water.  Behind  El  Moro  are  several  lagoons  or  streams,  and  the  high  land  retreats  for  some 
distance,  leaving  the  shore  low  and  sandy,  while  the  north  shore  is  rugged,  and  guarded  by 
rocks.  The  NW.  point  of  the  bay  is  called  Punta  de  los  Esteros  on  the  old  Spanish  charts, 
and  bears  NW.  ^  N.  from  the  west  point  of  Mount  Buchon,  distant  13  miles.  A  line  joining 
these  two  points  shows  that  the  bay  is  about  5  miles  deep. 

From  Point  Arguello,  Punta  de  los  Esteros  bears  NW.  by  N.,  distant  53  miles. 

From  Point  Los  Esteros  to  the  western  point  of  the  anchorage  of  San  Simeon  the  coast  runs  ' 
nearly  straight  NW.  by  W.  for  a  distance  of  15  miles.     The  shores  are  not  so  bold  as  to  the 
southward  or  northward,  and  the  mountains  fall  well  back,  leaving  a  fine  rolling  country  of  no 
great  elevation,   and  well  suited  to  agriculture.     We  have  seen  wild  oats  growing  here  over 
six  feet  in  height^ — not  one  or  two  stalks,  but  in  acres. 

BAY   OF   SAN   SIMEON. 

This  is  a  small  exposed  roadstead,  but  aifords  tolerably  good  anchorage  during  northwest 
winds.  The  southwest  point  of  the  bay  bears  NW.  by  W.  from  Point  Esteros,  and  is  distant 
15  miles.  The  indentation  of  the  shore  line  forming  the  bay  trends  between  N.NW.  to  N.  for 
half  a  mile,  and  then  sweeps  away  to  the  westward  about  a  mile  and  a  half,  gradually  taking  a 
southeast  direction.  The  land  behind  the  bay  is  comparatively  low  and  gently  rolling,  the 
high  hills  retiring  well  inland. 

Vessels  coming  from  the  northAvard  may  run  boldly  round  the  SW.  point,  Avithin  a  few 
hundred  yards  of  the  shore  in  8  or  9  fathoms,  round  up  to  north  and  anchor  anywhere  off  the 
sand  beach,  in  5  fathoms  hard  bottom,  and  a  little  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  shore. 
The  beach  is  half  a  mile  long,  stretching  well  out,  and  rendering  the  landing  disagreeable  with 
any  swell;  but  in  such  cases  it  is  usual  to  land  at  the  western  part  of  the  beach.  Eastward  of 
the  sand  beach  the  shore-hne  is  bluff  and  guarded  with  rocks.  Vessels  from  the  southward 
must  make  short  tacks  close  in  shore  or  they  will  assuredly  miss  it.  The  only  sure  marks  for  it 
are   the  Piedras  Blancas,    as  will  be  hereafter  shown.     It  was  in  this  bay  that  the  steamship 


THE   ONITED   STATES   COAST  SURVEY.  27 

Pioneer  put  in  in  a  leaky  state ;  was  driven  or  dragged  upon  the  beach,  and  after  being  abandoned 
by  the  underwriters  was  got  off  and  carried  to  San  Francisco.  The  bay  affords  not  the  sliglitest 
refuge  in  southerly  weather.  A  hydrographic  sketch  of  it  was  published  by  the  Coast  Survey 
in  1852. 

In  making  this  harbor  from  the  northward  vessels  must  sight  the  Pkdras  Blancas,  (White 
Rocks,)  four  miles  W.  J  N.  of  the  SW.  point  of  San  Simeon.  The^  are  two  large  white  sharp- 
topped  rocks,  and  nothing  else  like  them  is  found  on  this  part  of  the  coast.  The  geographical 
position  of  the  outer  and  larger  rock  is,  approximately: 

Latitude 35"  39'  north. 

Longitude 121°  15'  west. 

From  Point  San  Luis  they  besa-  NW.  |  W.,  distant  38  miles. 

From  Point  Esteros  they  bear  NW.  by  W.  i  W.,  distant  18  miles. 

Prom  Point  Arguello  the  rocks  bear  NW.  J  N..  distant  72  miles. 

The  secondary  astronomical  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  at  San  Simeon  is  on  the  rise  just  off 
the  beach,  and  bearing  N.  5°  W.  from  the  SW.  point  of  the  bay.     Its  geographical  position  is: 

Latitude 35  38  24.4  north. 

Longitude 121  10  22  west: 

k.    m.     §. 

Or,  in  time 8    4  41.5 

This  bay  is  supposed  by  some  to  be  the  "Bay  of  Sardines  "  of  Cabrillo,  where  ho  anchored 
and  landed  in  1542. 

Prom  Piedras  Blancaa  the  coast  trends  NW.  ^  W.  for  a  distance  of  57  miles,  in  an  almost  per- 
fectly straight  line.  At  a  distance  of  18  miles  from  these  rocks  the  above  mentioned  bearing 
cuts  a  bold  bluff  and  rounded  point  called  Punta  Gcrrda,  off  which,  and  for  two  or  three  miles 
along  the  shore  northward,  there  are  many  rocks.  This  point  is  the  Cape  San  Martin  of  Ca- 
brillo. He  placed  it  in  latitude  37°  30'  N. ;  but,  applying  the  correction  obtained  from  his 
erroneous  determination  of  San  Diego,  we  obtain  35°  50'  N.  as  the  position  of  San  Martin,  which 
is  very  nearly  its  proper  latitude. 

Continuing  on  the  same  bearing,  and  at  a  distance  of  49  miles  from  Piedras  Blancas,  is  Poirii 
Sur,  sometimes  called  Lobos,  making  out  nearly  half  a  mile.  As  seen  from  the  north  or  south, 
at  a  distance  of  10  miles,  Point  Sur  appears  as  a  high,  large,  round-topped  island;  but  upon 
approaching  it  a  low  neck  of  land  is  seen,  connecting  it  with  the  main.  Its  approximate  geo- 
graphical position  is: 

Latitude 36°  19'  north. 

Longitude 121°  52'  west. 

Vancouver,  in  passing  down  the  coast  in  1793,  thought  this  "small,  high,  rocky  lump  of  land, 
lying  nearly  half  a  mile  from  the  shore, ' '  was  detached,  and  that  it  formed  an  island. 

Still  continuing  on  the  same  bearing,  57  miics  from  Piedras  Blancas  and  7J  miles  from  Point 
Sur,  another  slightly  projecting  point  is  passed,  about  a  mile  to  the  eastward  of  the  course. 
Thence  the  coast  trends  more  to  the  eastward,  running  N.NW.  for  eight  miles,  to  Point  Cypress, 
and  passing  Point  Carmd,  the  south  point  of  Carmd  bay. 

From  Poiiit  Argudb  to  Point  Sur  the  bearing  is  N.  44°  W.,  and  the  distance  120  miles.  From 
Point  Sur  to  Punta  de  los  Reyes  the  bearing  is  N.  43°  W.,  and  distance  118  miles. 

The  mountains,  which  have  fallen  back  behind  Los  Esteros,  gradually  approach  the  shore-line 


2S  REPORT  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

north  of  San  Simeon,  and  about  10  miles  north  of  Piedras  Blancas  they  come  down  abruptly  to 
the  coast,  and  run  parallel  with  it  to  Point  Carmel,  forming  the  boldest  and  most  ceHaplete  shore 
that  we  have  yet  passed,  and  attaining  a  uniform  elevation  of  nearly  3,000  feet.  These  moun- 
tains were  called  by  Cabrillo  the  "Sierras  Altas,"  but  at  present  the  range  is  known  as  the 
Sierra  de  Santa  Lucia.  From  their  abrupt  faces  we  have  seen  cascades  falling  down  a 
height  of  forty  or  fifty  feet  directly  into  the  sea. 

CABMEL  BAY. 

Between  Point  Carmel  and  Point  Cypress,  which  are  about  3  miles  apart,  lies  the  small  rocky 
and  unsafe  bay  of  Carmel.  At  the  southern  extremity  is  a  small  cove  sufficiently  land-locked 
and  protected  for  small  vessels.  In  the  vicinity  there  is  an  extensive  quarry  of  granite,  and 
several  small  coasting  vessels  are  employed  for  its  transportation  to  San  Francisco;  but  there 
is  so  little  space  that  they  are  compelled  to  warp  in  and  out  by  buoys  placed  at  the  entrance. 
Point  Cypress,  the  north  point  of  the  bay,  is  low  and  covered  with  cypress  to  the  water,  and 
is  the  first  wooded  point  met  with  in  coming  from  the  southward.  The  upper  branches  of  the 
trees  are  spread  out  by  the  influence  of  the  strong  prevailing  winds,  and  present  a  flat  or 
umbrella-like  appearance. 

The  Mission  del  Carmelo  is  situated  but  a  short  distance  from  the  shores  of  the  bay,  and  can 
be  seen  from  the  water  in  certain  directions.  After  the  abolishment  of  the  Society  of  Jesus,  in 
Lower  California,  by  the  emperor  Charles  III  of  Spain,  with  the  transfer  of  the  administration 
of  the  Missions  to  the  Dominican  monks,  and  of  the  property  to  the  Franciscan  order,  the 
Visatador,  Don  Josef  de  Galves,  of  the  latter  order,  in  July,  1768,  visited  San  Diego  and 
Monterey,  for  the  purpose  of  establishing  Missions.  In  1769  he  founded  that  of  San  Carlos  de 
Monterey,  now  usually  called  the  Carmel  Mission. 

The  name  Rio  Carmel  was  applied  to  the  small  stream  emptying  into  Carmel  bay,  by 
Vizcaino,  in  December,  1602. 

From  Point  Cypress  to  Point  Pinos  the  general  direction  of  the  shore  is  N.  |  E.,  and  the 
distance  four  miles. 

Point  Pinos  makes  out  as  a  low  rounding  point,  bringing  the  pines,  with  which  it  is  covered, 
within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  shore,  off  which  the  rocks  make  out  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  and 
the  line  of  3  fathoms  nearly  half  a  mile,  when  the  depth  suddenly  increases  to  10  or  15  fathoms, 
and  at  a  mile  reaches  40  or  45  fathoms.  The  3 -fathom  line  follows  the  shore  within  a  third  or 
half  a  mile  into  Monterey,  whilst  outside  of  that  line  the  depth  increases  as  suddenly  as  ofl^  the 
point.  Vessels  should  always  give  Point  Pinos  a  good  birth,  as  a  very  heavy  swell  almost 
invariably  sets  upon  it.  This  point  is  the  northern  termination  of  the  long  and  elevated  range 
called  Sierra  de  Santa  Lucia,  extending  southward  and  forming  the  bold  rocky  coast-line  to  San 
Luis  Obispo.  Upon  the  northwestern  part  of  the  point,  at  the  face  of  the  growth  of  pines,  is 
situated  the  Point  Pinos  ligld-liouse.  The  building  is  a  grey  granite  dwelling  one  story  in 
height,  surmounted  by  a  tower  and  lanterny\  The  illuminating  apparatus  is  of  the  third  order 
of  Fresnel,  and  shows  a  fixed  light  of  tJie  natural  color  from  sunset  to  sunrise.  It  will  illuminate 
about  four-fifths  of  the  horizon,  and  is  elevated  Mty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  During 
ordinary  clearness  of  the  atmosphere  it  can  be  seen  from  an  elevation  of — 
10  feet,  at  the  distance  of  IS^miles.  /'■■'  Z 
20  feet,  at  the  distance  of  IS  miles. 
30  feet,  at  the  distance  of  14  miles.      /  ?,/ 


THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST   8URVET.  29 

Its  geographical  position,  as  determined  by  the  triangiihition  of  the  Coast  Survey,  is: 

O        I  II 

Latitude 36  37  68.1  north. 

Longitude 121  55  00  west. 

A.     m.        I. 

Or,  in  time 8    07   40.0. 

The  primary  astronomical  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  is  about  half  a  mile  eastward  of  the 
light,  and  has  the  following  geographical  position : 

o       /        H 

Latitude 36  37  59.4  north. 

Longitude 121  54  25  west. 

A.      m.         (. 

Or,  in  time 8    07    37.7. 

Magnetic  variation,  14°  58'.3  east,  in  February  1851,  with  a  yearly  increase  of  1'.4. 
A  topographical  sketch  of  Point  Pinos  is  given  in  the  annual  report  of  the  Coast  Survey 
for  1851. 

BAY   OF   MONTEBBY. 

Point  Pinos  forms  the  southwest  point  of  this  bay,  and  Punla  de  la  Santa  Cruz,  west  of  the 
town  and  anchorage  of  Santa  Cruz,  the  northwest  point.  A  line  joining  these  two  points  runs 
NW.  by  N.  ^  N.  19  miles,  and  the  greatest  width  of  the  bay,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Salinas 
river,  nine  miles. 

From  Point  Pinos  to  the  anchorage  off  the  town  of  Monterey,  the  course  is  E.  by  S.  J  S.,  and 
the  distance  three  miles.  The  shore  towards  the  town  is  rugged,  composed  of  granite,  and 
covered  with  a  heavy  growth  of  fir;  but  to  the  eastward  of  the  to\vn  is  a  long,  sandy  beach, 
backed  by  sand  dunes  of  slight  elevation.  Off  this  beach  the  line  of  three  fathoms  lies  at  a 
distance  of  about  half  a  mile,  the  water  deepening  rapidly  beyond  that,  and  the  bottom  every- 
where hard. 

Yessels  coming  from  the  northward,  bound  to  Monterey,  follow  the  coast  from  Point  Ano 
Nvevo  to  Point  Santa  Cruz,  then  run  well  into  the  bay,  but  not  too  far,  for  fear  of  losing  the 
wind,  and  to  avoid  the  set  of  the  heavy  swell  rolling  towards  the  beach.  Leaving  Point  Santa 
Cruz,  run  on  a  SE.  by  E.  course  about  14  miles,  thence  a  S.  course  for  8  miles  will  bring 
vessels  to  the  anchorage.  These  precautions  are  necessary,  because  Point  Pinos,  with  the  whole 
bay,  is  almost  continually  inveloped  in  a  dense  fog.  Very  frequently  the  coasting  steamers  have 
to  run  for  the  beach,  and  then  follow  the  route  to  the  anchorage. 

When  the  California  mail  steamships  stopped  at  Monterey  they  frequently  ran  outside  of 
Point  Pinos,  or  in  very  dangerous  proximity  to  it.  This  led  to  their  firing  a  gun  when  ap- 
proaching the  harbor  during  foggy  or  dark  weather,  and  upon  the  report  being  heard  at  the 
fort  a  gun  was  fired  in  answer,  and  the  exchange  kept  up  until  the  steamer  was  safe  at  her 
anchorage.  We  were  encamped  at  Point  Pinos  when  the  steamship  Carolina  was  brought  in 
by  this  means,  after  she  had  got  nearly  as  far  down  us  Cannel  bay.  A  direct  course  from 
Point  Ano  Nuevo  to  the  anchorage  is  SE.  J  E.,  and  the  distance  36|  miles.  From  Point  Pinos 
to  Point  Afio  Nuevo  the  bearing  is  N.  47°  W.,  and  the  distance  34  miles. 

By  anchoring  well  in  at  the  western  side  of  the  anchorage  vessels  will  avoid  much  of  the 
swell  that  comes  in  with  the  heavy  northwest  winds,  but  never  sufficient  to  make  any  berth 
there  dangerous.  In  heavy  southerly  weather  Point  Pinos  breaks  the  swell,  but  the  wind 
draws  very  strong  over  the  anchorage.    The  water  shoals  from  15  to  3  fathoms  in  a  distance  of 


30  REPORT  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

300  yards,  and  the  lead  should  be  used  to  avoid  running  in  too  far.     A  chart  of  the  bay  was 
published  by  the  Coast  Survey  office  in  1857. 

The  approximate  geographical  position  of  the  end  of  the  wharf,  abreast  of  the  custom-house 
at  Monterey,  is: 

o        /         // 

Latitude 36  36  17  north. 

Longitude 121  52  27  west. 

h.      m.        a. 

Or,  in  time * 8    07    29.8 

Tides. — The  corrected  establishment  or  mean  interval  between  the  time  of  the  moon's  transit 
and  the  time  of  high  water  is  Xh.  Xllm.  The  mean  rise  and  fall  of  tides  is  3.4  feet,  of  spring 
tides  4.3  feet,  and  of  neap  tides  2.5  feet.  The  mean  duration  of  the  flood  is  6h.  31m.,  of  the 
ebb  6^.  2m.,  and  of  the  stand  Oh.  35m.  The  average  difference  between  the  corrected  estab- 
lishment of  the  a.  m.  and  p.  m.  tides  of  the  same  day  is  Ih.  44m.  for  high  water,  and  lA. 
2m.  for  low  water.  The  differences,  when  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest,  are  2h.  40m. 
and  Ih.  28m.,  respectively.  The  average  difference  in  height  of  these  two  tides  is  1.4  feet  for 
the  high  waters,  and  2.4  feet  for  the  low  waters.  When  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest 
these  differences  are  2. 2  feet  and  3. 7  feet,  respectively.  The  average  difference  of  the  highest 
high  and  lowest  low  waters  of  the  same  day  is  5.3  feet,  and  when  the  moon's  declination  is 
greatest  6. 3  feet.  The  highest  high  tide  in  the  twenty -four  hours  occurs  about  9h.  36m.  after 
the  moon's  upper  transit,  (southing,)  when  the  moon's  declination  is  north  and  about  2h.  50m. 
before  when  south.  The  lowest  of  the  low  waters  occurs  about  7  hours  after  the  highest  high 
tide. 

The  town  of  Monterey  presents  a  very  pretty  appearance  as  seen  from  the  water.  Imme- 
diately behind  it  the  country  rises  in  plateaux,  diversified  by  hill  and  valley,  and  beautifully 
dotted  by  oak  groves. 

A  Portuguese  company  has  been  formed  here  to  engage  in  the  whale  fishery,  and  even  with 
inadequate  means  it  succeeded  in  obtaining  over  16,000  gallons  of  oil  (which  sold  for  $12,000) 
in  less  than  a  year. 

Regular  communication  is  kept  up  with  all  parts  of  the  coast  by  steamers  and  numerous 
sailing  vessels.     Stages  communicate  with  Santa  Cruz  and  all  the  towns  to  San  Francisco. 

The  Bay  of  Monterey  was  discovered  by  Cabrillo  in  1542,  and  called  the  Bay  of  Pines.  It 
was  surveyed  by  Sebastian  Vizcaino  in  1602,  and  the  name  was  changed  to  Puerto  de 
Monte-rey,  in  honor  of  the  Spanish  viceroy  of  Mexico,  Don  Gaspar  de  Zuniga,  Count  de 
Monte-rey,  who  despatched  the  expedition. 

Following  the  shore  from  the  town  of  Monterey  northward  it  presents  a  uniform  sand  beach 
running  nearly  north,  backed  by  low  dreary  sand  dunes,  producing  sparsely  the  coarsest 
grasses  and  bushes,  and  entirely  destitute  of  fresh  water.  This  waste  extends  to  the  Salinas 
river,  of  which  we  reach  the  great  bend  at  about  9  J  miles  from  Monterey.  From  Point  Pinos  it 
bears  N.  30°  E.,  distant  8^  miles.  From  this  bend  the  river  follows  the  line  of  the  beach,  just 
inside  of  the  low  sand  dunes,  for  a  distance  of  4  miles,  and  then  disembogues.  From  Point 
Pinos  it  bears  N.  18°  E.,  and  is  distant  12^  miles.  This  river  has  been  designated  by  a  variety 
of  names — as  Buenaventura,  Monterey,  and  Salinas;  but  it  is  now  generally  known  by  the  latter. 
From  its  mouth  to  the  entrance  of  the  Bio  del  Fajaro,  or  San  Antonio,  is  2^  miles,  the  shore 
trending  to  the  N.NW.,  and  the  entrance  to  that  river  bearing  N.  11°  E.  from  Point  Pinos, 


THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST  SURVEY.  31 

distant  14  m\\e».  From  here  the  coast  runs  NW.  nearly  straight  to  Ortoa  creek,  a  distance  of 
7  or  8  miles,  and  about  6  miles  E.  by  N.  of  Santa  Cruz,  with  the  shore  rocky  and  abrupt. 

North  of  the  Salinas  river  commence  rich  meadow  and  table  lands,  affording  to  the  settler 
spots  unsurpassed  for  productiveness,  even  in  the  prolific  State  of  California. 

An  extensive  valley,  called  the  Salinas  plains,  extends  inland  from  the  eastern  part  of 
Monterey  bay,  nearly  to  the  Mission  of  San  Miguel,  situated  on  a  plateau  of  the  San  Bruno 
mountains.  This  valley  is  said  to  bo  nearly  90  miles  in  length,  and  in  breadth  varying  from 
two  to  ten.  It  contijins  some  200,000  acres  of  good  agricultural  lands,  and  the  remainder 
affords  excellent  pasturage  for  horned  stock,  horses,  and  sheep. 

The  line  of  equal  magnetic  variation  of  15°  east  cuts  the  coast  line  of  Monterey  bay  in  latitude 
36°  45'  N.,  about  halfway  between  the  great  bend  and  mouth  of  the  Salinas  river,  and  crosses 
the  meridian  of  123°  0'  W.,  in  latitude  36°  36'  N.  This  line  moves  annually  southward  about 
a  mile  and  a  half. 

8ANTA   CRUZ  HABBOK. 

This  harbor  or  anchorage  is  at  the  northwest  part  of  the  bay  of  Monterey,  and  is  of  very 
limited  extent.  It  is  protected  from  all  the  winds  from  the  northward,  but  exposed  to  the 
full  sweep  of  southerly  gales,  and  many  coasters  have  been  driven  ashore  during  the  winter 
season.     It  is  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  in  depth  northward,  by  1 J  mile  east  and  west. 

Vessels  coming  from  the  northward,  after  leaving  Point  Ano  Nuevo,  follow  the  coast  line  on 
a  general  course  E.SE.  for  about  18  miles.  The  shore  for  this  distance  is  abrupt,  jagged,  and 
moderately  elevated,  with  a  range  of  high  hills,  or  mountains,  whose  summits  ^aro  almost  con- 
tinually enveloped  in  fog.  Skirting  the  shore  at  a  distance  of  half  a  mile  a  depth  of  6  to  10 
fathoms  can  be  carried,  and  upon  making  Point  Santa  Cruz,  the  top  of  which  is  moderately 
level  for  some  distance  back,  4  fathoms  are  obtained  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  it;  round  up 
and  run  along  in  5  fathoms  until  abreast  of  the  beach,  where  good  anchorage  will  bo  found  half 
a  mile  from  shore. 

Vessels  from  the  south  in  summer  keep  well  into  Monterey  bay,  to  escape  the  full  force  of 
the  northwesters  and  the  heavy  head  sea. 

During  the  winter  months  anchor  well  out,  so  as  to  be  able  to  clear  the  shore  westward  of 
Point  Santa  Cruz  in  case  a  southeaster  springs  up. 

Landing  on  the  beach  is  generally  disagreeable,  as  it  extends  out  some  distance,  but  boats 
usually  land  at  the  Embarcadero,  at  the  foot  of  the  bluff  in  the  NW.  part  of  the  harbor. 

The  beach  is  over  half  a  mile  in  length,  and  between  its  eastern  extremity  and  the  bluff 
point  empties  the  San  Lorenzo  river,  a  small  stream  running  past  the  town  and  mission,  which 
is  situated  a  mile  inland. 

A  hydrographic  sketch  of  the  harbor  was  published  in  the  Coast  Survey  report  for  1854. 

The  country  about  Santa  Cruz  is  exceedingly  productive,  and  now  thickly  settled.  A 
steamer  runs  regularly  in  the  trade  between  this  place  and  San  Francisco,  and  nomeroos 
coasters  find  abundant  freight  from  here  and  the  Pajaro  country  to  San  Francisco. 

Begnlar  stage  communication  is  maintained  with  San  Francisco  and  Monterey. 

The  secondary  astronomical  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  was  at  the  top  of  the  bluff  at  tha 
Embarcadero.     Its  geographical  position  is — 


32  EEPORT  OF  THE  SUPEHINTENDENT  OF 

o   '   " 

Latitude 36  57  26.9  north. 

Longitude 122  00  10  west. 

A.    m.      t. 

Or,  in  time 8  08  00.7 

An  examination  for  the  location  of  a  harbor  light  has  been  made,  and  the  site  recommended 
to  the  Light-house  Board  by  the  Superintendent  of  the  Coast  Survey. 

Tides. The  corrected  establishment  or  mean  interval  between  the  time  of  the  moon's  transit 

and  the  time  of  high  water  is  XJi.  XVIIIm.  The  mean  rise  and  fall  of  tides  is  4. 1  feet;  of  spring 
tides,  5.5  feet;  and  of  neap  tides,  2.9  feet.  The  mean  duration  of  the  flood  is  6A.  47m.;  of  the 
ebb,  5/i.  45m. ;  and  of  the  stand,  Oh.  20m.  The  average  difi"erence  between  the  corrected  estab- 
lishment of  the  a.  m.  and  p.  m,  tides  of  the  same  day  is  1/t.  44m.  for  high  water,  and  Ih.  2m.  for 
low  water.  The  differences,  when  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest,  are  2h.  40m.  and  1/i.  28m., 
respectively.  The  average  difference  in  height  of  these  two  tides  is  1.4  feet  for  the  high 
waters,  and  2.4  feet  for  the  low  waters.  When  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest  these  differ, 
ences  are  2.2  feet  and  3.7  feet,  respectively.  The  average  difference  of  the  highest  high  and 
lowest  low  waters  of  the  same  day  is  6.0  feet,  and  when  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest,  7.0 
feet.  The  highest  high  tide  in  the  twenty-four  hours  occurs  about  9A.  32m.  after  the  moon's 
upper  transit,  (southing, )  when  the  moon's  declination  is  north,  and  about  2h.  54m.  before,  when 
south.     The  lowest  of  the  low  waters  occurs  about  Ih.  after  the  highest  high  tide. 

It  was  off  Point  Santa  Cruz  that  Cabrillo  is  supposed  to  have  anchored  on  the  I7th  of  November, 
1542,  upon  his  return  from  the  northward. 

From  Point  Santa  Cruz  to  Point  Ano  Nuevo  the  distance  is  18  miles,  and  the  general  direc- 
tion W.  by  N.  I  N. ,  at  first  curving  to  the  south  westward  of  that  course,  and  then  to  the  north- 
ward until  within  3  miles  of  the  rock  of  Point  Afio  Nuevo,  when  the  shore  curves  well  to  westward, 
(for  the  last  mile  to  the  southwest,)  forming  an  anchorage  protected  somewhat  against  the 
heavy  swell  from  the  northwest,  and  having  a  depth  of  five  fathoms  within  less  than  half  a  mile 
of  the  shore,  and  from  10  to  15  fathoms  at  the  distance  of  a  mile. 

At  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  point  lies  a  black  jagged  islet,  consisting  of  a  sloping  ledge 
of  rocks  covered  with  a  stratum  of  yellow  clay  about  four  feet  thick,  and  this  again  covered  with 
a  mound  of  sand  about  30  feet  high.  Upon  this  the  erection  of  a  light-house  has  been  recom- 
mended. The  point  itself  is  composed  of  rolling  hills  of  shifting  sand,  varying  from  20  to  100 
feet  in  height,  while  behind  them  rises  the  Santa  Cruz  range  of  mountains.  The  coast  trail, 
which  followed  the  beach  from  the  southward,  here  strikes  up  the  hills  behind  the  sand  dunes. 

A  sketch  of  the  point  is  given  in  the  Coast  Survey  report  for  1854. 

Between  Ano  Nuevo  and  the  valley  of  the  Pescador,  (a  small  stream  running  through  a  valley 
of  inconsiderable  extent,)  the  general  formation  of  the  seaboard  is  that  of  a  table-land  of  three 
terraces,  the  lowest  gradually  sloping  from  the  base  of  the  second  to  the  coast,  which  is  exceed- 
ingly rocky  and  forbidding.  The  underlying  stratum  is  sandstone.  The  country  between  the 
valley  of  the  Pescador  and  that  of  the  San  Gregoria  (another  small  stream)  undergoes  a  striking 
change,  both  in  the  character  of  its  topography  and  its  geology.  Instead  of  the  table-land  we 
meet  with  a  spur  of  the  coast  hills,  running  into  the  sea,  and  having  an  elevation  of  300  feet. 
The  shore-line  and  the  country  generally  present  a  very  broken  and  rugged  appearance, 
occasioned  by  the  deep  gulches  that  cut  through  to  the  ocean. 

From  Point  Aiio  Nuevo  to  the  Boll  Boat,  outside  of  the  bar  off  the  entrance  to  San  Francisco 


THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST   SURVEY.  83 

bay,  the  distance  is  40  miles,  and  the  course  NW.  by  N.  Ten  miles  from  the  point  this  line 
passes  tangent  to  I'oint  Miramonte«,  the  shore  being  compact  and  tolerably  straight  until  it 
reaches  Miratonntes,  whotc  a  contracted  anchorage  exists,  called  Half  Moon  bay,  whence  small 
ooasters  carry  the  agricultural  produce  of  the  country  to  San  Francisco. 

Continuing  on  this  course  (NW.  by  N.)  30  miles  from  Point  Ai!o  Nuevo,  the  prominent 
headland  called  Point  San  Pedro  is  passed  at  a  distance  of  two  miles.  This  point  is  a  black, 
abrupt,  rocky  promontory,  over  600  feet  high,  having  largo,  high,  jagged  rocks  at  the  northern 
part,  and  is  an  excellent  mark  for  making  the  entrance  to  San  Francisco  bay.  (^At  the  last 
position  off  San  Pedro  the  bell  boat  on  the  bar  is  distant  about  12  miles.  Prom  the  bell  boat, 
Fort  Point  (two  miles  inside  the  south  head  formed  by  Point  Lobos)  is  on  with  Alcatraz  island,        \ 

inside  of  the  harbor.     Fort  Point  and  Alcatraz  island  have  Harbor  Lights  upon  them,  and  are .  ^i 

the  fair  way  lino  for  crossing  the  bar.     The  rock  off  San  Pedro  is   nearly  a  hundred   feet     / 
high.     Its  south  face  is  white  and  shows  the  line  of  stratification  plainly.     From  the  west  the 
dip  of  the  strata  shows  about  60  degrees  to  the  northward.     It  is  connected  with  the  main  by  / 
some  low  rocks.     Half  a  mile  to  the  northeast  of  the  point  is  the  valley  of  San  Pedro. 

The  range  of  mountains  forming  the  northeastern  shore  of  Monterey  bay  and  extending  to 
SantA  Cruz  and  Point  ABo  Nuevo  is  called  Santa  Cmz.  Thence  northward  to  the  Golden  Gate, 
and  forming  the  peninsula  of  San  Francisco  by  bounding  the  bay  on  the  west,  the  mountains 
are  known  as  the  San  Francisco  or  San  Bruno  range. 

The  extent  of  shore-line  from  Point  Conception  to  Point  Boneta  is  about  286  miles. 

BAT  OP  SAN  FRANCISCO  AND  APPROACHES. 

This  bay  affords  the  finest  and  most  commodious  harbor  on  the  Pacific  coast  of  the  United 
States.  From  its  discoverj'  it  has  commanded  the  admiration  of  navigators,  and  since  the 
wonderful  rise  of  California  has  well  sustained  its  reputation.  Its  geographical  position,  its 
size  and  depth  of  water,  its  noble  entrance  and  bold  shores,  the  Sacramento  and  tributaries, 
draining  the  rich  agricultural  valleys  and  auriferous  slopes  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  the  magic 
city  upon  its  shores,  and  the  salubrity  of  its  climate,  have  conspired  to  make  it  emphatically 
the  port  of  the  Pacific. 

The  Golden  Gale  is  the  entrance  to  the  bay,  and  presents  the  character  of  a  great  cleft  or 
fissure  in  the  sea  coast  range  of  mountains,  thereby  connecting  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  with 
the  Pacific  Ocean.  On  approaching,  it  is  difficult  to  imagine  that  a  deep  channel  lies  ahead, 
so  clear  is  the  atmosphere  and  so  well  defined  the  Contra  Costa  mountains  behind  the  bay. 
Both  shores  are  bold,  broken  into  points,  and  rocky;  but  the  northern  is  much  the  bolder, 
rising  almost  perpendicularly  from  the  water,  attaining  an  elevation  of  about  1,000  feet,  but  a 
short  distance  back,  and  in  7  miles  rising  to  2,600  feet.  On  the  south  side,  between  the  points, 
are  stretches  of  low  beach;  the  hills  are  undulating  and  of  moderate  elevation,  increasing  very 
gradually  in  altitude  to  the  southward,  and  reaching  a  height  of  1,200  feet  in  about  six  or  eight 
miles.  The  chart  of  San  Francisco  entrance,  which  accompanies  the  Annual  Coast  Survey 
Report  for  1856,  shows  the  bold  and  characteristic  topography  of  the  vicinity  of  the  Golden 
Gate. 

Point  Boneta. — The  north  head  of  the  entrance  is  formed  by  this  point;  a  narrow,  precipitous, 

rocky  cape,  nearly  300  feet  high,  and  stretching  from  the  ZAght  Howte  about  half  a  mile  to' the 

SE.     Behind  it  the  mquntains  rise  rapidly  to  an  elevation  of  1,500  feet.     There  are  no  dangers 

off  the  point,  the  line  of  3  fathoms  rarely  extending  300  yards  from  any  portion  of  it.     When 

5  e 


34  REPORT  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

the  clipper  ship  San  Francisco  was  lost  on  this  head,  we  are  told  that  she  first  struck  the  Uuff 
on  the  inside  of  the  point,  was  carried  by  the  currents  around  the  point,  and  then  cast  ashore 
on  the  outside.  The  reef,  or  line  of  sunken  rocks,  stretching  out  three-quarters  of  a  mile  upon 
some  maps,  has  no  existence,  and  only  serves  to  mislead  those  unacquainted  with  the  locality. 
From  5  to  6  fathoms  can  be  found  on  every  side  of  it  within  a  fifth  of  a  mile. 

One  mile  and  seven-eights  NW.  of  the  point  the  steamship  Tennessee  went  ashore  whilst 
endeavoring  to  find  the  entrance  in  a  thick  fog,  (calm  weather,)  and  was  lost.  The  Cortez  had 
got  in  just  before  her,  and  as  the  fog  was  shutting  down  over  the  entrance. 

Light-house  at  Point  Boneta. — The  building  is  situated  nearly  half  a  mile  from  the  extremity 
of  the  point,  and  consists  of  a  brick  tower  painted  white,  and  surmounted  by  a  lantern  painted 
black.  From  seaward  it  is  seen  projected  against  the  dark,  high  hills  behind  it,  and  in  clear 
weather  is  a  very  plain  object.  The  illuminating  apparatus  is  of  the  second  order  of  the  system 
of  Fresnel,  was  first  exhibited  April  30,  1855,  and  shows  &  fixed  light  of  the  natural  color  from 
sunset  to  sunrise.  It  illuminates  five  sixths  of  the  horizon,  and  is  elevated  about  306  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea.  During  ordinary  conditions  of  the  atmosphere  it  can  be  seen  from  an 
elevation  of — 

10  feet  at  a  distance  of  23.6  miles. 

20  feet  at  a  distance  of  25. 1  miles. 

SO  feet  at  a  distance  of  26.3  miles. 

50  feet  at  a  distance  of  28.1  miles. 

Its  geographical  position,  as  determined  by  the  triangulation  of  the  Coast  Survey  is — • 

o       /        '/ 

Latitude 37  49  10.0  north. 

Longitude 122  30  50.3  west. 

h.     m.       3. 

Or,  in  time 8  10    03.4. 

Magnetic  variation  15°  27'  east  in  1852. 

From  the  light  at  Point  Boneta  to  that  on  Fort  Point  the  distance  is  2§  miles,  and  bearing 
E.  |N. 

Fog-hell  at  Point  Boneta. — The  bell,  with  the  machinery,  is  in  a  frame  building,  open  in 
front,  and  placed  on  the  bluif  just  in  advance  of  the  light-house  tower,  at  an  elevation  of  270 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  bell  weighs  1,500  pounds,  and  during  foggy  and 
thick  weather  is  struck  six  blows,  at  intervals  of  sixteen  seconds  each,  followed  by  a  pause  of 
forty-four  seconds. 

The  fog-gun  at  Point  Boneta  has  been  discontinued  since  the  placing  of  the  bdl-boat  outside 
the  bar,  March  18,  1858.  It  may  not,  however,  be  amiss  to  state  here  the  design  of  the  fog- 
gun.  A  twenty-four  pounder  was  placed  near  the  light-house,  and  during  fogs  or  thick  weather, 
either  day  or  night,  was  fired  at  the  hours  and  half  hours  of  San  Francisco  mean  time.  It 
enabled  vessels,  before  reaching  the  bar,  to  get  the  bearing  of  Point  Boneta,  and,  by  the 
loudness  of  the  report,  or  better,  by  the  soundings,  to  form  an  estimate  of  their  distance 
from  it. 

We  advocated  this  plan  strongly  soon  after  our  arrival  upon  the  coast,  and  it  met  with  the 
hearty  support  and  commendation  of  ofiBcers  of  the  navy  and  commanders  of  the  steamships, 
clippers,  and  coasters.  Continuing  to  urge  its  adoption  until  the  spring  of  1855,  we  had  the 
satisfaction  of  seeing  it  tried  in  August  of  that  year.  We  have  since  learned,  by  British  news- 
papers, that  the  Board  of  Trade  and  Liverpool  Corporation  have  placed  a  gun  of  large  calibre 


THE   UNITED   STATES  COAST   SUBVET.  35 

on  Holyhead,  to  be  fired  during  foggy  weather,  for  the  benefit  of  mail  steaman  )pMnng  up  the 
Irish  channel. 

Foini  Lobos. — The  south  head  of  the  entrance  to  San  Francisco  bay  is  formed  by  this  point, 
upon  which  Congress  authorized  the  erection  of  a  light-home,  where  a  light  has  been  regularly 
shown  and  a  fog-bell  kept  in  operation  by  private  enterprize.  Upon  the  round-topped  hill 
behind  the  point  is  erected  a  large  frame  building  for  a  telegraph  station,  whence  the  electric 
wires  run  to  the  city  of  San  Francisco.  Southward  of  the  head  the  sand  dunes  are  conspicuous 
and  easily  recognized  features  in  approaching  the  entrance.  The  strong  northwest  summer 
winds,  drawing  in  over  the  land,  raise  the  white  sand  from  the  three  miles  of  broad  beach,  and 
carrying  it  inland  over  the  hill  tops,  bury  grass,  bushes,  and  scrub  oak.  The  quantity  of  sand 
driven  in  from  this  beach  is  enormous,  and  its  accumulation  has  greatly  modified  the  topography 
of  the  peninsula. 

The  geographical  position  of  the  site  selected  for  the  light-house,  as  determined  by  the 
triangulation  of  the  Coast  Survey,  is — 

O  /         If 

Latitude 37  46  56.9  north. 

Longitude 122  29  39.5    west. 

h,      m.      $, 

Or,  in  time 8     9  58.6 

This  position  is  32  feet  north  and  1,317  feet  west  of  the  outer  telegraph  station. 

Off  the  western  face  of  Point  Lobos  lie  a  number  of  black  jagged  rocks  about  50  feet  high, 
but  all  within  the  5-fathom  line,  and  close  in  shore.  They  are  called  the  Seal  rocks,  and  one 
of  them  shows  a  large  arch  from  particular  directions.  The  outer  one  bears  from  Point  Boneta 
SE.  by  S.  J  S.,  and  is  distant  2^  miles.  From  it  the  general  trend  of  the  shore  runs  in  a  line 
to  Fort  Point  for  nearly  a  mile,  to  a  short  jutting  high  point,  off  which  lie  the  MUe  rocks. 
From  this  point  the  shore  runs  well  to  the  eastward  for  a  mile,  gradually  trending  to  the  north 
for  a  mile  and  a  half  to  Fort  Point.  In  the  deepest  part  of  this  bend  the  shore  is  low,  with 
small  hillocks  rising  from  the  general  surface  and  slope  of  the  hills,  and  fronted  by  a  long  sand 
beach. 

Mile  Bocks. — These  two  rocks  lie  off  Point  Lobos,  a  short  distance  within  the  limit  of  the 
entrance  of  the  Golden  Gate.  They  are  small,  near  each  other,  and  have  a  height  of  15  feet 
above  water,  with  a  good  depth  of  water  all  around  and  close  to  them;  but  the  current  swirls 
and  eddies  about  them  in  such  a  manner  as  to  render  a  near  approach  anything  but  agreeable 
or  safe  with  a  light  wind.  The  inner  and  smaller  rock  is  one-third  of  a  mile  from  the  small 
jutting  point  inside  of  Point  Lobos,  and  very  nearly  2  miles  from  Fort  Point.  Vessels  running 
in  on  the  line  Fort  Point  and  Alcatraz  island  pass  less  than  half  a  mile  from  the  outer  and 
larger  rock.  The  rocks  bear  almost  SE.  from  Boneta  light.  They  were  called  "One  Mile 
rocks"  by  Beechy  in  November,  1826. 

Fort  Foint. — This  was  formerly  a  bold,  narrow,  jutting  promontory  of  hard  serpentine  rock, 
107  feet  above  high  water,  and  surmounted  by  a  small  Mexican  fortification,  called  Fort  Blanco. 
The  view  from  the  point  was  one  of  the  finest  in  the  harbor;  but  the  whole  headland  has  been 
cut  down  to  within  a  few  feet  of  high  water,  and  increased  in  area  to  form  a  large  fortification, 
which  will  be  mounted  with  guns  of  the  largest  range  and  calibre.  Upon  the  hill  side  rising 
behind  it  are  houses  for  the  accommodation  of  the  commandant,  oflicers,  soldiers,  and  workmen. 
Eastward  of  the  point  is  a  long  substantial  wharf,  constructed  for  receiving  stores,  ordnance,  Ac. 


m  REPORT   OF   THE    SUPERINTENDENT   OP 

Several  large  vessels  have  been  lost  on  Fort  Point  by  venturing  too  close  during  light  airs 
and  strong  irregular  currents. 

The  ligU-Jiouse  at  Fort  Point  is  a  wooden  building,  painted  white,  and  situated  outside  of 
the  fortifications.  The  illuminating  apparatus  is  of  the  fifth  order  of  Fresnel,  and  shows  a 
Jixed  light  of  the  natural  color  from  sunset  to  sunrise.  It  is  52  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea, 
and,  during  ordinary  states  of  the  atmosphere,  can  be  seen  from  an  elevation  of  15  feet  at  a 
distance  of  12J  miles.  The  angle  of  visibility  seaward  is  bounded  by  the  extremity  of  Point 
Boneta,  bearing  W.  |  S.,  and  Point  Lobos,  bearing  SW.  by  S.  j  S. 

The  geographical  position,  as  determined  by  the  triangulation  of  the  Coast  Survey,  is — 

O  I  II 

Latitude 37  48  37.4  north. 

Longitude 122  27  37.8    west. 

h.     m.     s. 

Or,  in  time 8     9  50.5 

The  light-house  first  built  upon  the  high  point  was  taken  down  when  the  fortification  opera- 
tions commenced.  The  light  in  the  present  one  was  first  exhibited  March  21,  1855. 
The  South  Farallone  light  is  visible  from  a  vessel's  decks  when  abreast  of  Fort  Point. 
Fog-bell  at  Fort  Point. — The  color  of  the  structure  is  white,  and  may  be  ^een  at  a  distance 
of  12  nautical  miles.  Its  height  is  36  feet,  and  the  elevation  of  the  light  (5th  order)  52  feet 
above  the  sea  level.  The  bell  is  struck  by  machinery,  and  the  fog-horn  sounds  every  five 
minutes. 

BELL-BOAT  OUTSIDE  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO  BAB. 

A  bell-boat  is  placed  just  outside  of  the  bar,  in  15  fathoms  at  mean  low  water,  on  the  range 
of  the  Fort  Point  and  Alcatraz  island  light-houses.  It  is  30  feet  long,  painted  red,  and  furnished 
with  a  day -mark  of  3J  feet  by  4,  elevated  8  feet  above  the  water.  The  bell  weighs  500  pounds, 
is  elevated  15  feet  above  the  water,  is  rung  by  the  action  of  the  sea,  and  under  ordinary  circum- 
stances of  wind  and  sea  should  be  heard  from  one  to  three  miles.  Mariners  are  cautioned  not 
to  run  into  or  damage  this  aid  to  navigation.  The  fog-gun  signal  at  Point  Boneta  was  discon- 
tinued with  the  placing  of  this  bell-boat,  March  18,  1858,  as  already  stated;  and  the  bar  buoy 
on  the  same  range  was  also  removed. 

The  approximate  geographical  position  of  the  bell-boat  is — 

o        / 

Latitude 37     45^  north. 

Longitude 122     38^  west. 

The  bearings  and  distances  of  prominent  objects  from  it  are  as  follows : 
South  Farallone  Island  light-house,  SW.  by  W.  ^  "W.,  16^  miles. 
Punta  de  Los  Reyes,  (light-house  site,)  NW.  by  W.  |  W.,  22;^  miles. 
Duxbury  Point,  NW.  by  N.  ^  N.,  8^  miles. 
Point  Boneta  light-house,  NE.  j  N.,  7^  miles. 
Port  Point  light-house,   NE.  |  E.,  9|  miles. 
Point  Lobos  telegraph  station,  NE.  by  E.  3  E.,  7^  miles. 
Point  San  Pedro,  SE.  ^  E.,  11^  miles. 

The  course  to  enter  the  bay  from  it  is  NE.  f  E.,  and  it  will  be  seen  that  it  lies  almost  in  the 
line  from  the  S.  Farallone  light  to  the  proposed  Point  Lobos  light. 


FOG    BELL    AT   FORT    POINT. 

Correction.  The  framework  supporting  the  bell,  is  ou  the  eastern  side  of  the  light-house,  and 
almost  touching  it.  The  crown  of  the  bell  is  40J  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  ground, 
and  supported  by  iron  rods,  10  feet  above  the  wooden  structure  in  which  it  was  for- 
merly [)laced.  The  bell  weighs  1092  pounds,  and  during  foggy  or  thick  weather,  is 
struck  by  machinery,  five  blows  at  intervals  of  ten  seconds,  followed  by  a  pause  of 
thirty-four  seconds. 


THE   UNITED   STATES  COAST   8UBVEY.  37 

Sem  Francisco  bar. — The  bar  off  the  entrance  to  the  buy  of  San  Francisco  has  a_depth  of  6 
fathoms  at  the  lowest  tides.  Its  general  form  is  that  of  a  horse-shoe,  commencing  4  miles 
southward,  stretching  out  gradually  to  C  miles  abreast  of  Point  Lobos;  and  when  nearly  up  to 
the  parallel  of  Point  Boneta  running  inshore  towards  that  point  and  forming  the  "four-fathom 
bank,"  from  a  distance  of  4  miles  down  to  1.  The  average  breadth  of  the  bar  within  the 
limit«  of  the  6-fathom  curve  is  about  one  mile.  It  falls  ofif  outside  to  10  fathoms  in  half  a  mile. 
and  deepens  gradually  inside.  Not  lest  than  5  fathoms  exist  over  the  bar  when  Point  Boneta 
light  bears  between  NE.  by  E.  |  E.  and  N.  by  W.  ^  W. 

No  vessel  should  anchor  upon  the  bar  if  she  can  possibly  avoid  it;  frequently  a  heavy  swell 
sets  in  without  wind,  and  if  the  current  is  running  strong  ebb,  it  allows  little  chance  of  escaping 
from  an  uncomfortable  berth. 

It  has  been  given  as  a  rule  for  steamers  approaching  in  thick  weather  to  run  for  the  bar  as 
nearly  as  they  can  estimate,  keeping  the  lead  going  until  they  strike  5  fathoms,  and  mn  on 
until  the  depth  is  increased,  when  the  armed  lead  should  bring  up  gray  sand  with  red  specks, 
and  they  may  conclude  themselves  within  the  bar.    '  '  ■ 

A  line  of  large  buoys,  properly  marked,  outside  the  bar  in  10  fathoms  is  the  next  best  expe- 
dient after  a  large  fog-gun.  From  them  the  position  of  the  bell-boat  could  be  known ;  and 
numbered  buoys  from  it  across  the  bar  would  enable  steamers  in  thick  weather  to  feel  their 
way  in  and  be  independent  of  guessing  about  the  velocity  and  direction  of  the  current. 

The  fog  sometimes  stands  like  a  wall  outside  of  a  lino  from  Fort  Point  across  the  entrance, 
while  the  bay  inside  is  beautifully  clear.  After  the  greatest  heat  of  the  day  is  passed  this 
fog  creeps  in  and  envelopes  land  and  water. 

T^  shores  of  the  Golden  Gate. — On  the  north  side  of  the  Golden  Gate  the  shores  are  very 
precipitous,  with  an  occasional  short  stretch  of  sand  beach  at  the  base  of  the  bluffs,  affording  a 
boat  landing.  Point  DiaUo  is  the  first  point  inside  Boneta,  and  bears  NE.  by  E.  f  E.  distant 
1^  mile  from  it;  between  these  the  shore  is  indented  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile,  affording 
a  boat  landing  for  the  light-house  people.  In  the  vicinity  of  Diablo  the  faces  of  the  cliffs  show 
of  a  reddish  purple  color.  The  rock  is  very  hard  and  flinty,  "traversed  by  seams  of  quartz, 
and  has  a  banded  or  belted  structure,  so  that  it  resembles  varieties  of  jasper.  *  *  »  *  » 
It  exhibita  its  stratified  character  most  distinctly.  It  is  also  found  at  the  cinnabar  mine  of 
New  Almaden." 

The  red  specks  found  on  the  bar  are  doubtless  derived  from  the  disintegration  of  these 
reddish  cliffs. 

From  Diablo  the  shore  is  jagged  and  irregular  to  Lime  Point  Bluff,  distant  one  mile,  and 
bearing  NE.  |  E.  Off  this  point  are  several  high  rocks,  but  they  are  so  close  to  the  bluff  as  to 
be  distinguishable  only  from  certain  directions.  From  Lime  Point  Bluff  to  Fort  Point  the  distance 
is  barely  a  mile,  and  the  bearing  S.  by  E.  \  E.  This  is  the  narrowest  part  of  the  Golden  Gate. 
From  thence  the  bay  begins  to  open  well  to  the  northeast. 

On  the  south  side,  eastward  from  Fort  Point,  the  shore  is  low,  flat  and  marshy  to  Point  San 
Jose,  distant  2^  miles,  and  bearing  £.  by  N.  This  point  is  moderately  high,  with  a  few  houses 
clustering  upon  it.  Off  this  reach  was  the  "outer  anchorage"  of  former  navigators,  and  the 
Presidio  of  San  Francisco  is  seen  a  short  distance  behind  it. 

"  It  is  a  curious  and  interesting  fact  that  the  sand  beach  between  Fort  Point  and  Point  San 
Joeef  has  been  thrown  up  by  the  surf  upon  an  extensive  alluvial  deposit,  which  has  the  character 
of  a  peat  bog  or  swamp.     When  the  tide  is  very  low  the  edge  of  this  peat  formation  may 


dS  REPORT  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

t 

be  seen.  Large  masses  of  the  peat  are  also  broken  out  during  storms,  and  thrown  Up  on  the  sand 
of  the  beach.  This  sand  and  all  the  loose  round  boulders,  from  three  to  eight  inches  or  more  in 
diameter,  rest  upon  a  foundation  of  the  peat;  and  the  continuation  of  the  peat  is  found  in  the 
swamp  or  flat  meadow  land  which  lies  inside  the  belt  of  sand,  and  between  it  and  the  base  of 
the  sandstone  hills.  It  is  very  difficult  to  account  for  the  formation  of  this  swamp  under  con- 
ditions like  those  at  present  existing." 

"A  strong  current  is  constantly  setting  back  and  forth  through  the  channel,  and  the  action 
of  the  surf  constantly  undermines  and  encroaches  upon  the  beach,  so  that  the  present  action  is 
destructive,  and  the  swamp  could  not  possibly  have  been  formed  while  the  Golden  Gate  was 
open  as  we  now  find  it."  These  remarks  are  taken  from  a  geological  report  of  the  coast  of 
California,  by  W.  P.  Blake,  Esq. — (See  Coast  Survey  Report  for  1855,  page  389.) 

From  Point  San  Jose  to  North  Point,  at  the  base  of  Telegraph  Hill,  the  distance  is  one  mile, 
and  the  bearing  E.  f  N.  All  this  space  forms  part  of  the  city  of  San  Francisco,  and  is  covered 
with  houses.  The  shore-line  is  denominated  the  North  Beach,  and  from  about  the  middle  of 
the  lowest  part  projects  a  long  wharf  over  the  flats  to  3  fathoms  water. 
,  Telegraph  Hill  rises  to  a  height  of  289  feet,  and  is  covered  with  houses  to  its  summit 
wherever  building  room  can  be  obtained.  The  present  plan  of  the  city  grades  contemplates 
the  entire  removal  of  this  hill. 
The  geographical  position  of  the  triangulation  station  of  the  Coast  Survey,  upon  its  summit,  is: 

O         /  II 

Latitude 37  48  06.4  north. 

Longitude 122  23  19.4  west. 

h      m.      I. 

Or,  in  time 8     9  33.3 

ALCATEAZ   ISLAND. 

This  is  the  first  island  that  is  opened  in  entering  the  Golden  Gate,  and  upon  it  is  erected  a 
light-house.  The  island  is  nearly  600  yards  long,  in  a  W.NW.  direction,  by  about  260  in 
width,  and  rises  to  an  elevation  of  135  feet  above  high  water.  The  summit  is  flat,  falling 
away  gently  on  all  sides  for  some  distance,  and  then  at  the  sides  dropping  perpendicularly. 
Upon  the  top  exists  a  thin  layer  of  earth,  but  the  island  is  composed  of  a  fine  grained  and 
"very  compact  sandstone  of  a  dark  bluish  green  color.  It  is  regularly  stratified  in  beds  of 
varying  thickness,  and  often  separated  by  thin  layers  of  argillaceous  shale.  It  appears  to 
contain  a  large  amount  of  protoxide  of  iron,  which  changes  to  the  hydrous  sesquioxide  on 
exposure."  Deep  water  marks  exist  all  round  the  island,  and,  with  the  exception  of  one  or 
two  places,  the  sides  are  so  steep  that  a  landing  is  effected  with  difficulty.  Extensive  fortifica- 
tions are  now  in  course  of  construction  upon  it.  At  the  SE.  side  a  small  pier  has  been  built  to 
receive  stores,  ordnance,  and  materials.  Off  the  NW.  part  foul  bottom  makes  out  about  300 
or  400  yards. 

Alcatraz  Island  Light-house  is  built  on  the  summit  of  the  island,  and  bears  NW.  from  Tele- 
graph Hill,  distant  If  mile  ;  from  Fort  Point  NE.  |  E.  distance  2|  miles. 

The  light  is  a  fixed  harbor  light  of  the  natural  color  and  of  the  third  order  of  Fresnel,  illumi- 
nating the  entire  horizon,  and  exhibited  from  sunset  to  sunrise.  It  is  160  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea,  and  should  be  seen  from  the  sea,  under  ordinary  states  of  the  atmosphere,  at  a 
distance  of  14  miles,  or  outside  the  bell-boat  off  the  bar. 


FOG   BELL   AT   ALOATBAZ   ISLAND. 
Paft  39, 

AdduioD.  The  framework  supporting  the  bell,  is  built  on  the  south-eastern  extremity  of  the 
island,  close  to  the  water's  edge,  and  is  elevated  about  30  feet  above  the  water.  The 
bell  weighs  1092  pounds,  and  during  foggy  or  thick  weather,  is  struck  by  machinery 
four  blows  at  intervals  of  eight  seconds,  followed  by  a  pause  of  fifteen  seconds. 

BIRD,    OR   ARCH    ROCK, 

Huge  3»,       I*  ^  small   pyramidal  rock,  about  45  feet  in  diameter,  30  feet  high,  and  bearing 
Correction.  -^T  ,  g^  distant  seven-eights  of  a  mile  from  the  light-house  on  Alcatraz  Island.     When 
seen  in  the  dii-ection  from  or  towards  the  Presidio  Shoal,  it  presents  a  perforation  at 
low  tides. 


I 


THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST   SURVEY.  89 

Ita  geographical  position  is: 

o      /       " 

Latitude 37  49  33.0  north. 

Longitude 122  24  18.8  west. 

k.    m.      I. 

Or,  in  time 8    9  37.3  - 

No  hidden  dangers  have  been  discovered  in  the  entrance  outside  of  the  line  from  Fort  Point 
to  Lime  Point  Bluff,  but  there  are  several  inside. 

Presidio  Shoal,  having  3^  fathoms  upon  it,  lies  1|  mile  inside  of  Fort  Point,  and  bears  NE. 
by  E.  J  E.  from  it,  or  three-quarters  of  a  point  eastward  of  the  line  between  the  lights  on  Fort 
Point  and  Alcatraz  inland.  The  shoal  is  about  700  yards  long  within  the  4-fathom  curve,  and 
over  half  a  mile  long  within  the  5-fathom  curve.  It  is  very  narrow,  shows  sandy  bottom,  and 
has  deep  water  all  round  it.     Its  general  direction  is  on  the  above  mentioned  bearing. 

From  the  shoalest  part  the  Presidio  flag-staflf  bears  S.  J  E.,  and  we  have  ventured  to  distin- 
guish the  shoal  by  that  name. 

Anita  Bock  shows  above  water  at  low  tides  and  is  situated  IJ^  mile  inside  of  Fort  Point  and 
bears  E.  by  N.  from  it.  It  is  only  300  yards  from  the  low  beach  and  has  deep  water  close 
around  it. 

"  A  spar  buoy,  painted  red,  with  even  numbers,  has  been  placed  in  3  fathoms  water,  about 
half  a  cable's  length  due  west  from  the  shoalest  part  of  Anita  rock.  Vessels  should  not 
approach  this  buoy  within  a  cable's  length,  as  a  strong  current  sets  across  the  rock."  It  was 
named  after  the  United  States  Quartermaster's  barque  Anita,  that  struck  upon  it. 

Bird  Bock  shows  aboVe  water  at  low  tides,  wilh  deep  water  close  to  it  On  everj-  side.  It 
bears' W.-|  S.  from  the  light-house  on  Alcatraz  island,  and  is  distant  seven-eighths  of  a  mile. 

Shag  Bock  is  a  low  white  topped  rock,  about  half  a  mile  nearly  N.NE.  from  Bird  rock.  From 
Alcatraz  light  it  bears  W.  by  N.,  distant  1  mile.  For  about  300  yards  towards  Alcatraz 
island  the  bottom  is  foul  and  irregular,  but  outside  that  limit  10  fathoms  are  found.  The  rock 
shows  about  4  feet  above  the  highest  tides,  being  then  not  more  than  8  or  10  feet  in  extent. 

Blossom  Bock  is  a  ledge  having  5  feet  water  upon  it  at  the  lowest  tides,  and  within  the 
3-fathom  curve,  is  about  300  by  200  yards  in  extent,  with  deep  water  outside  these  limits. 
A  spar  buoy,  painted  with  red  and  black  horizontal  stripes,  has  been  placed  in  4  fathoms  water, 
about  half  a  cable's  length  due  south  from  the  shoalest  part  of  the  ledge.  Vessels  should  not 
approach  this  buoy  from  any  direction  nearer  than  a  cable's  length. 

This  ledge  bears  E.  by  S.  from  Alcatraz  light,  and  IJ  mile  distant,  being  almost  on  the  line 
joining  the  south  points  of  Alcatraz  and  Yerba  Buena  islands.  From  the  summit  of  Telegraph 
Hill  it  bears  N.  6°  W.,  distant  1  mile. 

It  was  discovered  and  named  by  Beechy,  after  his  ship,  in  November  1826. 

Terba  Buena  Idand  is  the  large  high  island  opened  to  the  east  and  south  of  Alcatraz  after 
enteriig  the  Golden  Gate.  The  western  point  of  this  island  is  1|  mile  from  Telegraph  Hill, 
and  the  bearing  NE.  by  E.  Its  peak  is  343  feet  high;  the  sides  steep  and  irregular,  and  rising 
to  a  ridge  running  nearly  east  and  west.  On  the  western  or  San  Francisco  side  the  water  is 
very  deep  close  in  shore,  but  from  the  NW.  point  a  3-fathom  bank  extends  IJ  mile  NW.  by  N., 
spreading  to  the  eastward  for  half  a  mile,  and  thence  running  to  the  NE.  point.  The  wreck 
of  the  ship  Crown  Princess  lies  in  5  fathoms  on  the  western  edge  of  this  band,  and  a  day-mark, 
painted  red,  has  been  attached  to  her,  consisting  of  a  plank  7  inches  by  3,  30  feet  long,  showing 


r 


4B  REPORT    OF   THE    SUPERINTENDENT   OF 

15   feet   above  high  water,  with  a  board  5  feet  long  nailed  across  just  below  the  top.     The 
following  bearingK  and  distances  give  its  position: 

Alcatraz  island  light-house,  W.  by  S.,  2^  miles. 
Telegraph  Hill,  SW.  by  S.,  1|  mile. 

West  end  of  Yerba  Buena  island,  SE.  by  S.  ^  S.,  |  mile. 
East  end  of  Yerba  Buena  island,  E.  by  S.  i  S.,  1  mile. 

Angel  Island. — When  passing  through  the  narrowest  part  of  the  Golden  Gate  this  large  island 
bears  about  N.NE.,  and  is  seen  as  an  island  for  a  very  short  time  when  in  the  narrowest  part 
of  the  Golden  Gate.  It  has  an  irregular  and  bold  shore-line  of  about  5  miles,  and  an  area  of 
one  square  mile.  It  rises  to  a  height  of  771  feet,  is  covered  with  grass  and  bushes,  and  cut 
in  every  direction  by  deep  gulleys.  As  seen  from  the  southeastward  it  appears  part  of  the 
northern  peninsula,  but  is  divided  from  that  in  its  NW.  face  by  Raccoon  straits,  three  quarters 
of  a  mile  in  width,  having  a  depth  of  water  ranging  from  10  to  30  fathoms,  and  a  very  strong 
current.  A  narrow  high  jutting  point  makes  out  from  the  SE.  portion  of  the  island,  bearing 
N.  I  W.  from  Alcatraz  island  light,  and  distant  If  mile.  From  this  head  the  general  trend  of 
the  southern  face  for  over  a  mile  is  W.  by  S.  toward  Saucelito  Point. 

Punta  de  los  CavaUos  is  half  a  mile  N.NW.  from  Lime  Point  bluff.  The  shore-line  between 
them  falls  slightly  back,  and  a  very  small  valley  makes  down  from  the  high  hills  behind. 

Point  Saucdito. — From  Point  CavaUos  the  general  trend  of  the  shore  is  NW.  by  N.  for  \\ 
mile  to  Point  Saucelito  with  nearly  a  straight  shore-line.  One  mile  from  Point  CavaUos  is  the 
anchorage  of  Saucelito,  where  men-of-war  and  whalers  formerly  anchored.  It  lies  abreast  of  a 
few  houses  forming  the  town  of  Saucelito,  whence  much  of  the  water  used  in  San  Francisco  is 
taken  in  steam  water-boats.  North  of  this  anchorage  is  a  large  bay,  with  but  a  few  feet  water. 
From  Saucelito  Point  to  the  western  point  of  Angel  island  the  distance  is  1|  mile,  and  the 
bearing  NE.  by  E.  \  E. 

To  Peninsula  Point,  forming  the  southwestern  part  of  Raccoon  strait,  the  distance  is  one 
mile,  and  bearing  NE.  |  E. 

The  following  .list  of  geographical  positions  in  San  Francisco  bay  is  taken  from  the  published 
reports  of  the  United  States  Coast  Survey: 

"  Outer  telegraph  station,"  on  the  summit  of  the  hill  behind  Point  Lobos. 

O  /  It 

Latitude 37     46     56.6     north. 

Longitude 122     29     23.3     west. 

A.      m.         t. 

Or,  in  time 8     09     57.5. 

^  ^Presidio"  near  the  Presidio  of  San  Francisco.     Primary  astronomical  station. 

O  /  II 

Latitude 37     47     36.1  north. 

Longitude 122     26     15       west. 

A.      m.         I. 

Or,  in  time 8     09     45.0. 

Magnetic  variation,  15°  27'  east  in  February,  1852;  yearly  increase,  1'.4. 
Telegraph  Hill,  near  the  San  Francisco  observatory.     Primary  astronomical  station. 

o  /  // 

Latitude 37     47     59. 2  north. 

Longitude 122     23     10       west. 

h.     m.         >. 

Or,  in  time 8     09     32.5. 


TUB   UNITED   STATES  COAST   SUBVET. 


41 


The  highest  part  of  the  hill  is  301  foet  above  high  wator. 

Silicon,  summit  of  tho  slight  hill  NE.  of  South  Park.     Secondary  astronomical  station. 

O  '  II 

Latitude 37     47     07.0  north. 

Longitude 122     22     32      west. 

k.     m.         •■ 

Or,  in  time 8     09     30.1. 

Tides. — As  a  general  rule  there  is  one  large  and  one  small  tide  during  each  day,  the  heights 
of  two  successive  high  waters  occurring  one,  a.  m.,  and  tho  other,  p.  m.  of  the  same  twenty- 
four  hours,  and  the  intervals  from  tho  next  preceding  transit  of  the  moon  are  very  different. 
These  inequalities  depend  upon  the  moon's  declination.  Thoy  disappear  near  tho  time  of  the 
moon's  declination  being  nothing,  and  are  greatest  about  tho  time  of  its  being  greatest.  The 
inequalities  for  low  water  are  not  the  same  as  for  high,  though  they  disappear  and  have  the 
greatest  value  at  nearly  the  same  times. 

When  the  moon's  declination  is  north,  the  highest  of  the  two  high  tides  of  the  twenty-four 
hours  occurs  at  San  Francisco  about  eleven  and  a  half  hours  after  the  moon's  transit;  and  when 
the  declination  is  south,  the  lowest  of  the  two  high  tides  occurs  at  about  that  interval.  The 
lowest  of  the  two  low  waters  of  tho  day  is  the  one  which  follows  next  tho  highest  high  water. 

Tables  I  and  II  give  the  number  to  be  added  to  the  time  of  moon's  transit  to  find  the  time 
of  high  water.  It  is  one  of  double  entry,  the  time  of  transit  being,  placed  in  the  first  column, 
and  the  ntmiber  of  days  from  tho  day  at  which  the  moon  had 'the  greatest  declination  being 
arranged  at  the  top  of  the  table.  Entering  the  first  column  with  the  time  of  transit,  and 
following  tho  lino  horizontally  until  wo  come  under  the  column  containing  the  days  from  the 
greatest  declination,  we  find  the  number  to  be  added  to  the  time  of  transit  to  give  the  time  of 
high  water.     If  the  moon's  declination  is  south,  Table  I  is  to  be  used;  if  north,  Table  II. 

TABLE  I, 


•oirr> 

DKCUHITIOX 

DAT! 

rum 

MOON*a  OKBATSflT   D8CL1KAT10N. 

« 

Ttoeof 
Booal 

tmisli. 

Befor*— 

After 

- 

Time  of 
moon*i 
tiaiMit. 

• 

I 

4 

3 

9 

1 

0 

X 

3 

3- 

4 

S 

6 

Km. 
0      0 

11 

13 

7 

A. 
19 

IK. 

9S 

K. 
13 

43 

13 

57 

k. 
13 

m. 
13 

13 

m. 
90 

A.  m. 
13    18 

k. 
13 

m. 
10 

k. 
13 

m. 
3 

19 

m. 
31 

k. 

u 

m. 

38 

19 

a. 
91 

k.m. 
9     0 

0    » 

11 

43      19 

1 

13 

19 

13 

37 

13 

SI 

13 

« 

13 

14 

13    10 

13 

4 

19 

36 

13 

4S 

19 

39 

IB 

15 

0    30 

1      0 

11 

37 

U 

13 

13 

IS 

31 

13 

4S 

13 

0 

13 

8 

13      4 

19 

se 

13 

SO 

19 

39 

19 

96 

19 

9 

1      0 

1    30 

a 

31 

49 

IS 

7 

13 

9S 

13 

39 

13 

S4 

13 

3 

13    S8 

19 

S3 

13 

44 

IS 

33 

19 

91 

19 

3 

1    30 

*     0 

u 

95 

43 

IB 

1 

13 

19 

13 

33 

13 

48 

13 

S« 

13    S9 

19 

48 

13 

38 

13 

37 

19 

14 

11 

57 

9     0 

1   10 

11 

90 

36 

11 

98 

19 

14 

19 

98 

13 

43 

13 

SI 

13    47 

13 

41 

19 

33 

19 

93 

19 

9 

11 

89 

9    38 

3     0 

11 

17 

33 

11 

S3 

19 

11 

19 

98 

19 

40 

13 

48 

13    44 

13 

38 

13 

30 

19 

19 

IB 

« 

11 

49 

3     0 

3    30 

11 

17 

3S 

11 

» 

13 

11 

19 

35 

19 

40 

13 

48 

13    44 

19 

38 

13 

30 

19 

19 

IS 

8 

11 

49 

3    » 

4     0 

11 

B 

40 

11 

88 

13 

16 

13 

W 

19 

4S 

13 

S3 

13    49 

IB 

43 

13 

3S 

13 

94 

IB 

11 

11 

54 

4     0 

4    30 

11 

30 

48 

19 

8 

13 

34 

13 

38 

13 

S3 

13 

1 

13    87 

13 

SI 

13 

43 

13 

» 

IB 

19 

19 

9 

4    90 

»     0 

11 

31 

37 

IS 

IS 

13 

33 

19 

47 

13 

9 

13 

10 

IS     6 

13 

0 

13 

38 

13 

41 

19 

99 

19 

11 

5     0 

3    M 

11 

47 

19 

i 

13 

93 

13 

41 

13 

&3 

13 

10 

13 

18 

13    14 

13 

8 

13 

0 

IS 

49 

19 

30 

U 

19 

S   38 

a    0 

11 

U 

19 

13 

13 

31 

13 

49 

13 

3 

13 

IB 

13 

36 

13    99 

13 

16 

13 

8 

13 

57 

U 

44 

19 

97 

e    • 

6    30 

19 

0 

19 

18 

19 

38 

19 

M 

13 

8» 

13 

33 

13 

31 

13    97 

13 

91 

13 

»? 

13 

9 

U 

49 

IB 

39 

6    11 

7      0 

19 

7 

13 

9S 

19 

43 

13 

1 

13 

IS 

13 

30 

13 

38 

13    34 

13 

98 

13 

90 

13 

9 

IB 

S6 

IB 

38 

7      0 

7    30 

19 

U 

19 

31 

13 

49 

13 

7 

13 

31 

13 

38 

13 

H 

13    40 

13 

84 

13 

98 

13 

IS 

11 

9 

IB 

45 

7    W 

8      • 

19 

18 

38 

13 

M 

13 

19 

13 

98 

13 

41 

13 

49 

13    4t 

13 

38 

13 

31 

13 

90 

13 

7 

IB 

SO 

8      0 

8    30 

19 

91 

39 

19 

S7 

13 

IS 

13 

39 

13 

44 

13 

33 

13    48 

13 

49 

13 

34 

13 

93 

13 

10 

IB 

S3 

8    30 

S     0 

19 

90 

38 

13 

38 

13 

14 

13 

98 

13 

43 

13 

SI 

13    47 

13 

41 

13 

33 

13 

99 

13 

9 

19 

59 

9      0 

9    30 

19 

18 

38 

19 

S4 

13 

13 

13 

98 

13 

41 

13 

49 

13    45 

13 

39 

13 

31 

13 

90 

13 

7 

19 

50 

9    30 

10      • 

19 

14 

33 

13 

SO 

13 

8 

13 

93 

13 

37 

13 

41 

11    41 

13 

3S 

13 

97 

13 

16 

13 

3 

19 

46 

10      0 

10    30 

U 

8 

U 

98 

19 

44 

13 

9 

13 

18 

13 

31 

13 

39 

13    35 

11 

99 

13 

91 

13 

10 

IB 

67 

19 

40 

10    30 

11      • 

19 

1 

19 

19 

19 

37 

U 

St 

13 

9 

13 

94 

13 

30 

13    98 

13 

B 

13 

14 

13 

3 

IS 

SO 

19 

33 

11      0 

11    30 

11 

S3 

19 

11 

19 

98 

IB 

47 

13 

1 

13 

16 

13 

94 

13    90 

11 

14 

13 

6 

IB 

55 

19 

49 

19 

9S 

11    30 

42 


REPORT  OF   THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 


TABLE  II. 


NORTH 

DKCLINATlOIf.— DATS  FROM  UOON's 

OREATEST 

DECLINATION. 

Time  of 

Time  of 

moon's 

Before 

— 

After 

— 

moon's 

transit. 

trangit. 

6 

5 

4 

3 

2 

1 

0 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

h.  m. 

h,   m. 

h. 

m. 

h,  m. 

A 

m. 

A 

m. 

h,  m. 

A. 

m. 

h. 

m. 

A. 

m. 

A. 

m. 

A.  m. 

m. 

A. 

m. 

h.  m. 

0   0 

12  21 

12 

3 

11  45 

11 

27 

11 

13 

10  58 

10 

50 

10 

54 

11 

0 

U 

8 

11  19 

32 

49 

U   0 

0  30 

12  15 

11 

57 

11  39 

11 

21 

11 

7 

10  52. 

10 

44 

10 

48 

10 

54 

11 

2 

11  13 

26 

43 

0  30 

1   0 

12   9 

11 

51 

11  33 

11 

15 

11 

1 

10  46 

10 

38 

10 

43 

10 

48 

10 

56 

11   7 

20 

;i7 

1   0 

1  30 

12   3 

11 

45 

11  27 

11 

9 

10 

55 

10  40 

10 

32 

10 

36 

10 

43 

10 

50 

11   1 

14 

31 

1  30 

2   0 

11  57 

11 

39 

11  21 

11 

3 

10 

49 

10  34 

10 

36 

10 

30 

10 

3« 

10 

44 

10  55 

8 

35 

2   0 

2  30 

11  52 

11 

34 

11  16 

10 

58 

10 

44 

10  29 

10 

21 

10 

35 

10 

31 

10 

39 

10  50 

3 

20 

2  30 

3   0 

11  49 

11 

31 

11  13 

10 

55 

10 

41 

10  26 

10 

18 

10 

22 

10 

28 

10 

36 

10  47 

0 

17 

3   0 

3  30 

11  49 

11 

31 

11  13 

10 

55 

10 

41 

10  36 

10 

18 

ID 

22 

10 

28 

10 

36 

10  47 

0 

17 

3  30 

4   • 

11  54 

11 

36 

11  18 

•  11 

0 

10 

46 

10  31 

10 

23 

10 

27 

10 

33 

10 

41 

10  » 

5 

22 

4   0 

4  30 

13   3 

11 

44 

11  26 

11 

8 

10 

54 

10  39 

10 

31 

10 

35 

10 

41 

10 

49 

11   0 

13 

30 

4  30 

5   0 

12  11 

It 

53 

11  35 

11 

17 

11 

3 

10  48 

10 

40 

10 

44 

10 

50 

10 

58 

11   9 

22 

39 

5   0 

5  30 

12  19 

12 

1 

11  43 

u 

25 

11 

11 

10  56 

10 

48 

10 

53 

10 

58 

11 

6 

11  17 

30 

47 

5  30 

8   0 

12  27 

12 

9 

11  51 

11 

33 

11 

19 

11   4 

10 

56 

u 

0 

11 

6 

11 

14 

11  «S 

38 

55 

6   0 

6  30 

12  32 

12 

14 

11  56 

11 

38 

11 

24 

11   9 

11 

1 

u 

5 

11 

11 

11 

19 

11  30 

43 

12 

0 

6  30 

7   0 

12  39 

12 

21 

12.  3 

11 

45 

11 

31 

11  -16 

11 

8 

11 

12 

11 

18 

11 

3« 

11  37 

50 

12 

7 

7   0 

7  30 

12  45 

12 

27 

12   9 

11 

51 

11 

37 

.11  22 

11 

14 

11 

18 

11 

34 

11 

23 

11  43 

56 

13 

13 

7  30 

8   0 

12  50 

12 

32 

12  14 

11 

56 

11 

42 

11  27 

11 

19 

u 

23 

11 

29 

11 

37 

11  48 

12 

1 

12 

18 

8   0 

8  30 

12  53 

12 

35 

12  17 

11 

59 

u 

45 

11  30 

11 

22 

_11 

26 

11 

32 

11 

40 

11  51 

12 

4 

12 

S* 

8  30 

»      0 

12  52 

12 

34 

12  IS 

11 

58 

11 

44 

11  39 

11 

21 

11 

25 

11 

31 

11 

39 

11  50 

12 

3 

12 

30 

9  30 

9  30 

12  60 

12 

32 

12  14 

11 

56 

11 

42 

11  27 

11 

19 

11 

23 

11 

29 

11 

37 

11  48 

12 

1 

12 

18 

»   0 

10   0 

12  46 

12 

28 

12  10 

11 

52 

11 

38 

11  23 

u 

15 

11 

19 

11 

25 

11 

33 

11  44 

11 

57 

12 

14 

10   0 

10  30 

12  40 

12 

Zl 

12   4 

11 

46 

11 

32 

11  17 

11 

9 

11 

13 

11 

19 

11 

37 

U  38 

11 

51 

12 

8 

10  30 

11   0 

12  33 

12 

15 

U  57 

11 

39 

u 

25 

11  10 

11 

3 

11 

6 

11 

13 

11 

20 

11  31 

11 

44 

12 

1 

11   0 

11  30 

12  25 

12 

7 

11  49 

11 

31 

11 

17 

11   2 

10 

54 

10 

58 

11 

4 

11 

12 

11  33 

11 

36 

11 

58 

11  30 

Example. — Kequired  the  time  of  high  water  at  North  Beach,  San  Francisco,  on  the  7th  of 
February,  1853. 

1st.  The  time  of  the  moon's  transit  at  Greenwich,  from  the  British  Nautical  Almanac,  is 
llA.  4l7W. ;  the  longitude  of  San  Francisco,  8L  10m.;  requiring  a  correction  of  16m.  to  the 
time  of  transit  at  San  Francisco,  which  is  thus  found  to  be  llA.  57m. 

2d.  The  moon's  decKnation  is  south,  and  at  the  time  of  transit  about  two  days  after  the 
greatest.  Entering  Table  I,  we  find  12h.  (or  0/i.)  of  transit,  the  nearest  number  to  \\h.  57m. 
which  the  table  gives;  and  following  the  line  horizontally  until  we  come  to  two  days  after  the 
greatest  declination  we  find  13/i.  10m. 

To       l\li.  bim.  time  of  transit  of  moon,  February  7,  San  Francisco, 

Add     13     10       from  column  OA.  transit,  and  two  days  after  greatest  declination. 


The  sum  25  7  or  \h.  Im.,  February  8,  is  the  time  of  high  water  corresponding  to 
the  transit  which  we  took  of  February  7.  If  we  desire  the  tide  of  February  7,  we  must  go 
back  to  the  moon' s  transit  of  the  6th.     The  example  was  f)urposely  assumed  to  show  this  case. 

To     llA.     Im.,  time  of  transit,  February  6,  1853, 

Add  13     28       number  for  11  A.  transit,  and  one  day  from  greatest  declination. 


Sum  24     29,  time  of  high  water,  0/i.  29m.,  a.  m.,  February  7. 


The  height  of  high  water  is  obtained  in  a  similar  manner  by  the  use  of  Table  III  and  IV, 
entering  these  in  the  same- way  with  the  time  of  transit  and  days  from  the  greatest  declination. 
Table  III  is  for  south  declination,  and  Table  IV  for  north. 


THE   UNITED   STATES  COAST   SURVEY. 


43 


TABLE  IIL 


1 

•oimi 

BIOUIIlTtel — DAT! 

rtoa  aooa'i  oUAnrr  DioimiTioit. 

\ 

1 

0 

Aftor^ 

.1 

t 

S    ' 

4 

3 

9 

1 

1 

a 

3 

4 

S 

6 

1 

Anr. 

FHL 

/M. 

ft.*. 

Art. 

fM. 

n*. 

fM. 

FtH. 

JW. 

fW. 

Fttt. 

FtH. 

Fiti. 

Hma. 

4.9 

4.0 

3.8 

3.7 

3.7 

3.9 

4.0 

4.1 

4.3 

4.6 

4.B 

S.8 

3.4 

3.9 

3.1 

3.1 

3.3 

3.4 

3.S 

3.7 

4.0 

4.3 

3.4 

3.9 

3.0 

9.9 

9.9 

3.1 

3.9 

3.3 

3.S 

3.8 

4.0 

3.B 

3.0 

9.7 

9.7 

9.9 

3.0 

3.1 

3.3 

9.S 

3.8 

a.  8 

a.s 

9.3 

9.3 

9.3 

9.8 

9.7 

9.9 

3.3 

3.4 

a.s 

a.3 

9.0 

9.0 

9.9 

9.3 

9.4 

9.8 

9.9 

3.1 

a.4 

8.a 

I.B 

1.9 

9.1 

9.9 

9.3 

9.5 

9.8 

3.0 

a.7 

9.S 

9.9 

a.a 

9.4 

9.S 

9.8 

9.8 

3.1 

3.3 

3.1 

a.8 

9.8 

a.s 

9.8 

9.9 

3.0 

3.3 

3.5 

3.7 

a.s 

3.3 

3.0 

3.0 

3.9 

3.3 

3.4 

V 

3.9 

4.1 

3.7 

3.5 

3r3 

3.9 

s.a 

3.4 

3.S 

3.8 

3.8 

4.1 

4.3 

10 

3.9 

3.7 

3.S 

3.4 

3.4 

3.8 

3.7 

3.8 

4.0 

4.3 

4.5 

11 

TABLE  IV. 


KOIITB 

DICLntnON DAT! 

rmox  Hooii'i  okiatht  diclikatioii. 

• 

B«rore— 

Aftei 

^ 

•":s 

o  1 

V   * 

t 

8 

5 

4 

3 

a 

1 

0 

1 

8 

3 

4 

5 

8 

^ 

Horn. 

/M. 

/M. 

FM. 

Fat. 

Fktt. 

FM. 

Fttt. 

F,tl. 

Feit. 

Fetl. 

FiH. 

Fut. 

Feet. 

Hour. 

4.8 

5.a 

5.3 

5.3 

5.4 

5.3 

S.I 

5.0 

4.9 

4.7 

4.4 

4.9 

4.9 

4.8 

4.7 

4.8 

4.7 

4.5 

4.4 

4.3 

4.1 

3.8 

3.8 

4.0 

4.4 

4.5 

4.8 

4.5 

4.3 

4.3 

4.1 

3.9 

3.8 

3.4 

3.8 

4.a 

4.3 

4.4 

4.3 

4.1 

4.0 

3.9 

3.7 

3.4 

3.9 

3.4 

3.8 

3.9 

4.0 

3.9 

3.7 

3.8 

3.5 

3.3 

3.0 

9.8 

3.1 

3.5 

3.8 

3.7 

3.8 

3.4 

3.3 

3.a 

3.0 

9.7 

9.5 

S.S 

3.4 

3.5 

3.8 

3.5 

3.3 

3.9 

3.1 

9.9 

9.8 

9.4 

3.3 

3.7 

.  3.8 

3.8 

3.9 

3.8 

3.8 

3.5 

3.4 

3.3 

3.9 

9.7 

3.7 

4.1 

4.a 

4.3 

4.3 

4.0 

3.9 

3.8 

3.8 

3.3 

3.1 

4.1 

4.5 

4.8 

4.7 

4.8 

4.4 

4.3 

4.9 

4.0 

3.7 

3.5 

IS 

4.3 

4.7 

4.8 

4.9 

4.8 

4.8 

4.5 

4.4 

4.9 

3.9 

3.7 

10 

11 

4.5 

4.9 

5.0 

5.1 

5.0 

4.8 

4.7 

4.8 

4.4 

4.1 

3.9 

11 

Example. — To  obtain  the  height  of  the  tide  on  February  7,  1853,  the  declination  being  south, 
we  enter  Table  III,  with  Ok.  of  transit,  and  two  days  after  greatest  declination,  and  find  that 
the  tide  will  bo  4.0  feet  above  the  mean  of  the  lowest  low  waters,  or  that  4.0  feet  are  to  be 
added  to  the  soundings  of  a  chart  reduced  to  the  mean  of  the  lowest  low  waters  of  each  day. 
If  the  soundings  of  the  chart  were  given  for  mean  low  water,  then  1.2  feet  ought  to  be  sub- 
tracted from  the  Tables  III  and  IV;  thus,  in  this  example,  it  would  bo  2.8  feet. 

The  approximate  times  of  the  successive  low  and  high  waters  of  the  day  will  be  found  by 
adding  the  numbers  in  Table  V  to  the  time  of  the  first  high  water  already  determined.  The 
table  gives  the  numbers  for  the  difleront  days  from  the  greatest  declination. 


u 


REPORT   OF   THE   SUPERINTENDENT   OF 


TABLE  V. — Cbntaining  numbers  to  be  added  to  the  time  of  high  water  found  from  tables  I  and  II,  to  obtain  the  successive  low  and  high  wateri. 


B 

rt    o 

SOUTH   DECLINATION. 

NORTH   DECLINATION. 

u 

1 

0  S 

".3 

Low  water. 

High  water. 

Low  water. 

Low  water. 

High  water. 

Low  water. 

(Small.) 

(Large. 

(Large.) 

(Large.) 

.  (Small.) 

(Bmall.) 

aiS 

S  o 

A.    m. 

h.   m. 

h.    m. 

A.   m. 

h.    m. 

h,   m. 

r  6 

5    48 

13      U 

18    54 

5    54 

11    57. 

17    45 

6  1 

5 

5    25 

12    28 

18    45 

6    17 

12    32 

17    57 

5 

ffl 

4 

5      3 

11    50 

18    29 

6    39 

13    10 

18    13 

4 

C* 

3 

4    45 

11     16 

18    13 

6    57 

13    44 

18    29 

3   '% 

2 

4    30 

10    46 

17    58 

7    12 

14    14 

18    44 

9      ■ 

I    1 

4     18 

10    18 

17    42 

7    24 

14    42 

19      0 

1  -I 

0 

4    12 

10      0 

17    30 

7    30 

15      0 

19    12 

0 

r  1 

4    24 

10    10 

17    28 

7    18 

14    50 

19    14 

1  1 

2 

4    34 

10    20 

17    28 

7      8 

14    40 

19    14 

2 

■^ 

3 

4    49 

10    36 

17    29 

6    53 

14    24 

19    13 

3 

> 

4 

S      6 

10    58 

17    34 

6    36 

14      2 

19      8 

4 

5 

5    24 

11    24 

17    42 

6    18 

13    36 

19     0 

S 

r 

6 

5    51 

11    S3 

17    45 

fi    SB 

.   ■ 

13      8 

18    59 

6  J 

The  days  from  gfeatest  declination  are  written  in  the  first  and  last  columns  of  the  table. 
The  second,  third,  and  fourth  columns  refer  to  south  declination,  and  the  fifth,  sixth,  and 
seventh  to  north.  The  second  column  gives  the  number  which  is  to  be  added  according  to 
the  declination  to  the  time  of  high  water  obtained  by  means  of  Tables  I  and  II  to  give  the 
next  low  water,  which  is  a  small  low  water.  The  third  contains  the  numbers  to  be  added  to 
the  same  to  give  the  second  or  large  high  water.  The  fourth,  the  numbers  to  be  added  to  the 
same  to  give  the  second  or  large  low  water.  The  succeeding  columns  give  the  numbers  to  be 
used  in  the  same  way  for  north  declinations,  to  obtain  the  large  low  water,  the  small  high 
water,  and  the  small  low  water. 

The  rise  and  fall  of  the  same  successive  tides  may  be  obtained  by  inspection  from  Table  VI, 
in  which  the  first  column,  at  the  side,  contains  the  time  of  transit,  and  the  successive  columns 
the  numbers  corresponding  to  that  time,  and  to  the  number  of  days  from  greatest  declination. 
The  arrangement  of  this  table  is  like  that  already  given. 

The  numbers  for  the  small  ebb  tide  are  first  given  ;  then  those  for  the  rise  from  the  small 
low  water  to  the  largo  high  Avater ;  next  the  large  ebb  tide ;  and,  lastly,  the  rise  from  the  large 
low  water  to  the  small  high  water. 

TABLE  VI. — Showing  the  rise  and  fall  qf  the  several  tidee  corresponding  to  different  hours  of  transit,  and  days  from  the  greatest  declination 

of  the  moon,  at  San  Francisco,  California. 


s 

lVkoe 

KBD  TIDE,  OR  FROM  L-«R»E 

UIOH  WATER  TO  LAReC 

LOW  WATER. 

rROM   LAReE  LOW  WATER  TO  ffMALL  HIGH  WATER. 

.2 

■s 

E 

J? 

s 

Days  from 

moon's  greatest 

deelination. 

Days  from 

moon' 

s  greatest  declination. 

2 

"S 

Before — 

0 

After— 

Before— 

0 

After— 

1 
"S 

3 

o 

6 

S 

4 

3 

2 

1 

Ft. 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

6 

5 

4 

3 

2 

1 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

Ft. 

Ft. 

m. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Jl. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

0 

4.6 

4.0 

3.3 

2.8 

2.4 

2.0 

1.9 

2.0 

2.3 

2.6 

3.0 

3.7 

4.3 

5.2 

5.0 

4.7 

4.4 

.  4.0 

3.8 

3.6 

3.2 

3.3 

3.4 

3.4 

3.5 

3.7 

0 

1 

4.0 

3.4 

2.7 

2.2 

1.8 

1.4 

1.3 

1.4 

1.7 

2.0 

2.4 

3.1 

3.7 

4.6 

4.4 

4.1 

3.8 

3.4 

3.2 

2.9 

2.6 

2.7 

2.8 

2.« 

2.9 

3.1 

1 

2 

3.8 

3.2 

2.S 

2.0 

1.6 

1.2 

1.1 

1.2 

1.5 

1.8 

2.2 

2.9 

3.5 

4.4 

4.2 

3.9 

3.6 

3.2 

3.0 

2.7 

2.4 

2.5 

2.6 

2.6  2.7 

2.9 

s 

3 

3.6 

3.0 

2.3 

1.8 

1.4 

1.0 

0.9 

1.0 

1.3 

1.6 

2.0 

2.7 

3.3 

4.2 

4.0 

3.7 

3.4 

3.0 

2.8 

2.5 

2.2 

2.3 

2.4 

2.41  2.5 

2.7 

3 

4 

3.2 

2.6 

1.9 

1.4 

1.0 

0.6    0.5 

0.6 

0.9 

1.2 

1.6 

2.3 

2.9 

3.8 

3,6 

3.3 

3.0 

2.6 

2.4 

2.1 

1.8 

1.9 

2.0 

2.0  2.1 

2.3 

4 

5 

2.9 

2.3 

1.6 

1.1 

0.7 

0.3;  0.2 

0.3 

0.6 

0.9 

1.3 

2.0 

2.6 

3.S 

3.3 

3.0 

2.7 

2.3 

2.1 

1.8 

1.5 

1.6 

1.7 

1.7 

1.8 

2.0       S 

6 

2.8 

2.2 

l.S 

1.0 

0.6 

0.2 

0-i 

0.2 

0.5 

0.8 

1.2 

1.9 

2.5 

3.4 

3.2 

2.9 

2.6 

2.2 

2.0 

1.7 

1.4 

1.6 

1.6 

1.6 

1.7 

1.9       6 

7 

3.1 

2.5 

1.8 

1.3 

0.9 

0.5 

0.4 

0.5 

0.8 

1.1 

1.5 

2.2 

2.8 

3.7 

3.5 

3.2 

a.9- 

2.5 

2.3 

2.0 

1.7 

1.8 

1.9 

1.9   2.0 

2.2       7 

8 

3.5 

2  9 

23 

1.7 

1.3 

0.9 

0.8 

0.9 

1.2 

1.5 

1.9 

2.6 

3.2 

4.1 

3.9 

3.6. 

3.3 

2.9 

2.7 

2.4 

2.1 

2.2 

2.3 

2.3|  2  4 

2.6 

8 

a 

3.9 

3.3 

2.6 

2.1 

1.7 

1.3 

1.2 

1.3 

1.6 

1.9 

2.3 

3.0 

3.6 

4.5 

4.3 

4.0 

3.7 

3.3 

3.1 

2.t! 

2.5 

2.6 

2.7 

2  7   2.8 

3.0 

9 

10 

4.1 

3.5 

2.8 

2.3 

1.9 

1.5 

1.4 

1.5 

1.8 

2.1 

3.5 

3.2 

3.8 

4.7 

4.5 

4.2 

3.9 

3.5 

3.3 

3.0 

2.7 

2.8 

2.9 

2.9  3.0 

3.2     10 

11 

4.3 

3.7 

3.U 

2.5 

2.1 

1.7 

1.6 

1.7 

2.0 

2.3 

2.7 

3.4 

4,0 

4.9 

4.7 

4.4 

4.1 

3.7 

3.5 

3.2 

2.9 

3.0 

3.1 

3.1   3.2 

3.4     11 

THE   UNITED   STATES  COAST   8UBVEY. 


TABLE  VL— Continued. 


i 

■.laoi  III  TiDC,  01  rcoM  LAiui  mnH  watii  to  laioi  low  wtni. 

rrnoH  Licoi  tow  wim  to  ihall  nioii  wiTta. 

a 

i 

noan'f  ftiaimi  decUouloo. 

Daytfrom 

moon 'a  (reiint  dccUnuloa. 

i 

Bottv*- 

*      « 

0 

Aftsfw- 

Boron— 

0 

AAn— 

1 

1 

a 

5 

4 

3 

> 

1 

1 

9 

3 

4 

5 

8 

8 

5 

4 

3 

9 

I 

1 

9 

3 

4 

5 

• 

1 

a 

n. 

n. 

M 

ft. 

n. 

Ft. 

n. 

Ft. 

n. 

Jl 

ft. 

Fl.   «. 

ft. 

ft. 

ft. 

ft. 

Ft. 

Fl. 

Ft 

ft. 

Ft 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

ft. 

4.4 

5.0 

3.7 

c.t 

7.1 

7.» 

8.7  8.4 

6.0 

i.3  4.7 

3.8 

4.3 

4.6 

5.0 

5.9 

5.5 

5.8 

5.7 

5.6 

5.6 

5.5 

5.3 

0 

3.» 

4.4 

S.I 

6.0 

f.O 

8.4 

6.4 

6.1 

5.8, 

5.4 

4.7{  4.1 

3.9 

3.7 

4.0 

4.4 

4.6 

4.9 

5.9 

5.1 

3.0 

5.0|  4.9 

4.7 

1 

3.8 

4.a 

4.9 

5.8 

8.3 

6.9 

5.»  5.8 

i.r  5.4 

5.9 

4.s:  3.» 

3.0 

3.5 

3.8 

4.9 

4.4 

4.7 

5.0 

4.9 

4.8 

4.8 

4.7 

4.5 

9 

3.4 

4.0 

4.7 

5.8 

6.1 

6.0 

5.0 

4.3J  3.7 

9.8 

3.3 

3.6 

4.0 

4.9 

4.5 

4.8 

4.7 

4.6 

4.8 

4.» 

4.3 

3 

3.« 

\« 

4.3 

5.9 

5.7 

5.6l 

5.3'  5.a 

4.(^ 

3.9  J.9 

9.4 

9.9 

3.8 

3.6 

3.8  4.1 

4.4 

4.3 

4.9 

4.a 

4.1 

3.9 

4 

a.7 

3.3 

4.0 

4.9 

5.41 

5.9 

5.«  4.7 

4.3 

3.8  3.0 

9.1 

9.8 

9.9 

3.:i 

3.5 

3.0 

4.1 

4.0 

3.9 

3.^ 

3.K 

3.6 

5 

9.6 

3.a 

9.9 

4.8 

8.3 

S.9 

4.»|  4.6 
S.a^  4.9 

4.9 

3.5  3.9 

9.0 

8.5 

9.8 

3.9 

3.4 

3.7 

4.0 

3.S 

3.8 

3.8 

3.7 

3.9 

« 

a. 9 

Xi 

4.9 

3.1 

5.8 

5.S 

4.5 

3.8   3.8 

9.3 

9.8 

8.1 

S.S 

3.7 

4.0 

4.3! 

4.9 

4.1 

4.1 

4.0 

3.8 

7 

3.3 

3.9 

4.S 

5.5 

8.0| 

5.9 

5.8  5.:^  4.9 

4.9  3.6 

9.7 

3.9 

3.5 

3.9 

4.1 

4.4 

4.7 

4.8 

4.5 

4.5 

4.4 

4.9 

e 

3.7 

4.3 

S.O 

5.9 

6.4 

8.3 

8.9|  &.?  5.3 

4.6   4.0 

3.1 

3.8 

3.9 

4.3 

4.5  4.8 

5.1 

S.O 

4.9 

4.9 

4.8 

4.8 

9 

It 

3.9 

4.S 

S.9 

6.1 

8.6 

8.5 

6.a.  8.9  5.5 
6.4  8.l|  5.7 

4.8  4.3 

3.3 

3.8 

4.1 

•4.5 

4.7  5.0 

5.3 

5.9 

5.1 

5.1 

5.0 

4.8 

10 

11 

4.1 

4.7 

5.4 

5.9 

6.3 

6.6.  8.7 

5.0  4.4 

3.5 

37 

4.0 

4.3 

4.7 

4.9  s.a 

5.5 

5.4 

5.3 

5.3 

5.9 

5.8 

11 

Examjie, — ^Thus,  in  the  preceding  example  the  high  water  of  February  7  was  found  to  be 
2.8  feet  above  mean  low  water.  The  declination  being  south,  thil  high  water  is  the  small  one. 
To  obtain  the  fall  of  the  next  low  water  or  small  low  water,  wo  enter  table  VI,  with  Oh.  of 
moon'  B  transit  and  two  days  after  greatest  declination,  in  the  first  part  of  the  table  and  find 
2.3  feet,  which  will  be  the  difference  in  height  of  this  high  and  low  water.  Entering  with  the 
same  transit  and  day  in  the  second  part,  we  find  3.3  feet,  which  is  the  rise  of  the  largo  high 
water  above  the  small  low  water;  the  difference  between  2.3  feet  and  3.3 feet  or  1.0  foot  is 
the  difference  of  height  of  the  two  successive  high  waters.  It  is  easy  to  see  how,  in  this  way, 
the  soundings  of  a  chart  can  be  reduced  to  what  they  would  be  approximately  at.  all  the 
successive  high  and  low  waters. 

Sailing  directions. — In  approaching  Uie  coast  every  opportunity  should  be  seized  for  deter- 
mining the  vessel's  position,  as  fogs  and  thick  weather  prevail  near  the  land.  Vessels  coming 
from  tlie  soiUhward  make  the  coast  about  Pohit  Ailo  Nuevo,  (lat.  37°  07'  N.,)  and  follow  it  at 
a  distance  of  4  or  5  miles  up  to  the  bar.  Coming  from  the  northivard  they  make  Punta  de  los 
Bttyes,  in  latitude  38°  00'  N.,  and  run  E.  SE.  to  the  bell-boat,  22  miles.  Coming  from  the 
tcesttcard  they  first  sight  the  South  Farallone  island,  (latitude  37°  42'  N.,)  having  the  Hght- 
honse  upon  it,  and  keep  upon  either  side  of  it ;  but  it  is  preferable  to  go  to  the  southward,  as 
the  vicinity  of  the  island  has  not  yet  been  surveyed  in  detaiL  From  the  South  Farallone  light- 
house the  Point  Boncta  light  bears  NE.  by  E.,  23§  miles ;  and  the  beli-boat  outside  the  bar 
bears  NE.  by  E.  J  E.,  16J  miles.  Coming  from  the  run-tJitcesttmrd  they  i)as8  witliiu  2  or  3 
miles  of  Punta  de  los  Reyes ;  15  fathoms  being  found  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  it,  but 
vessels  are  apt  to  lose  the  wind  by  getting  too  close  under  it.  From  the  western  extremity  of 
this  point  the  Point  Boneta  light  bears  E.  |  S.,  distant  25^  miles,  the  line  passing  over  the 
tail  of  Duxbury  reef,  at  a  distance  of  l7i  miles  from  Los  Reyes.  To  the  bell-boat  off  the  bar 
the  bearing  is  SE.  by  E.  |  E.,  and  distance  22^  miles. 

The  bell-boat,  IJ  mile  outside  of  the  bar,  is  placed  on  the  prolongation  of  the  range  from 
Alcatraz  island  to  Fort  Point,  giving  a  course  NE.  }  E.  for  vessels  entering  the  Golden  Gate, 
and  designed  by  Belcher  the  "fair  way  line,"  and  he  calls  the  island  and  fort  the  "fair  way 


46  REPORT  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  Or 

marks."  But  with  a  heavy  swell  on  the  bar  this  range  should  be  used  merely  as  aline  of 
reference,  because  on  the  bar  it  passes  over  a  small  5-fathom  spot,  while  half  a  fathom  more 
can  be  obtained  for  a  distance  of  two  miles  both  north  and  south  of  it.  In  clear  weather  and 
with  a  favorable  wind  a  vessel  can  cross  the  bar  in  not  less  than  5  fathoms  from  the  line,  having 
the  north  end  of  Alcatraz  island  just  open  by  Point  Boneta  (NE.  by  E.  |  E.)  round  to  the.  shore 
south  of  Point  Lobos,  (N.  by  "W.  ?  W.)  Northward  of  the  former  line  Ihe  four-fathom  bank 
(having  3|  fathoms  on  it)  commences  one  mile  west  of  Boneta,  and  stretches  out  over  3  miles, 
with  a  breadth  of  one  mile.  Upon  this  bank  the  clipper  Golden  Fleece  struck  in  1857,  and 
came  into  port  with  7  or  8  feet  of  water  in  her  hold.  She  was  the  second  of  her  name  that 
was  unfortunate  in  entering  the  harbor,  the  first  having  been  totally  lost  on  Fort  Point.  Inside 
of  this  four-fathom  bank  the  deepest  water  can  be  got  for  entering,  but  it  would  be  dangerous 
for  a  sailing  vessel  to  attempt  it  with  a  flood  tide  and  light  winds.  While  it  is  breaking  on  the 
bank  only  a  heavy  swell  is  found  through  this  8^-fathom  channel,  and  small  sailboats  have 
passed  in  safety  when  they  dared  not  try  the  bar.  During  clear,  moderate  weather  any  vessel 
can  cross  the  bar  within  the  limits  we  have  mentioned,  without  running  until  she  has  got  on 
the  "fair  way  line,"  whereby  she  might  lose  her  slant  of  wind.  Should  the  wind  fail,  or  be 
light,  and  the  current  adverse,  anchor  outside  the  bar  in  15  fathoms,  mud  and  fine  sand;  or, 
after  crossing  the  bar,  in  6  to  10  fathoms,  fine  gray  sand,  with  red  specks  in  some  places.  Run 
in  mid-channel  between  the  *heads,  and  between  Fort  Point  and  the  opposite  shore,  taking 
special  care  not  to  approach  Port  Point  too  close,  because  the  currents  set  around  it  irregularly 
and  with  great  rapidity,  and  the  bottom  is  uneven  and  rocky.  A  depth  of  69  fathoms  is  given 
in  the  centre  of  the  channel.  In  the  Golden  Gate  we  have  measured  an  ebb  current  running 
above  6  miles  per  hour.  As  a  general  rule,  the  winds  increase  within  the  heads,  drawing  in 
very  strongly  abreast  of  Fort  Point.  "When  off  this  point  steer  for  Alcatraz  light-house  until 
the  north  point  of  Telegraph  Hill  bears  E.  by  S. ,  then  steer  to  give  it  a  berth  of  a  quarter  of 
a  mile,, running  through  among  the  shipping. 

In  making  the  port  at  night  it  is  customary  to  run  for  the  bell-boat,  and  cross  the  bar  with 
Fort  Point  light  on  with  Alcatraz  island  light,  or,  better,  the  latter  a  little  open  to  the  north- 
ward. But  this  practice  frequently  involves  much  delay  and  annoyance  when  the  wind  will 
not  permit  a  vessel  to  attain  this  position  without  a  tack.  With  Boneta  light  bearing  from  N. 
by  W.  to  NE.  by  E.,  a  vessel  may  boldly  run  on  within  those  limits,  and  unless  there  is  a  heavy 
swell  safely  cross  the  four-fathom  bank.  Give  Boneta  a  berth  of  a  mile,  and  when  within  the 
heads,  and  Boneta  abeam,  gradually  open  Alcatraz  light  north  of  Fort  Point,  until  abeam  of 
the  latter;  then  run  for  Alcatraz  until  the  lights  of  the  shipping  show  the  vessel's  position. 
Hauling  up  for  them,  anchor  ofi"  the  north  beach  in  10  fathoms,  or  off  the  northeast  front  of,the 
city  in  10  fathoms,  soft  mud. 

In  coming  upon  the  coast  in  thick  foggy  weather,  sailing  vessels  should  not  run  into  less  than 
50  fathoms,  because  the  water  around  the  South  Farallone  and  off  Point  San  Pedro  and  Punta  de 
los  Reyes  is  very  bold.  It  is  believed,  however,  that  a  30-fathom  bank  exists  at  a  considerable 
distance  to  the  westward  of  the  last.  If  the  Farallones  are  made,  a  course  can  be  easily  laid 
for  the  bar,  but  it  would  be  unadvisable  to  run  into  less  than  20  fathoms,  soft  mud,  if  the  bell- 
boat  be  not  heard,  as  the  set  and  strength  of  the  currents  off  the  entrance  to  the  bay  are  yet 
imdetermined.  Belcher  says  that,  being  caught  in  a  fog,  he  anchored  in  15  fathoms,  to  the  south- 
ward of  the  bar,  and  deteirmined  "that  southerly  of  the  fair  way  line  the  ebb  tide  set  N.NE., 
flood   S.SW."     We  suppose  he  means  from  the  N.NE.,  and  from  the  S,SW.      During   the 


THE   DOTTED   STATES  COAST  SUEVEY.  47 

seaaoD  of  frcshota  in  tho  Sacramonto  and  tributaries  tho  discolored  water  oatside  the  bar  will 
frequently  point  out  tho  position  of  tho  entrance. 

Steamers  in  thick  weather  were  accustomed  to  run  close  along  the  coast,  and  endeavored  to 
make  the  land  north  of  Point  San  Pedro,  running  in  until  they  got  about  15  fathoms,  and  then 
laying  a  course  for  the  bar,  shoaling  upon  it  to  about  5  fathoms,  and  then  gradually  deepening, 
while  the  fog-gun  gave  the  direction  of  Bonotu  light.  Before  the  establishment  of  tho  fog -gun 
the  steamship  "Tennessee"  was  wrecked  t^vo  miles  north  of  Bonota,  when  seeking  for  the 
entrance  in  a  dense  fog;  tho  steamnhip  S.  S.  Lewis  just  north  of  Duxbury  reef;  and  the  U.  S. 
revenue  brig  Lawrence  between  points  Lobos  and  San  Pedro.  Now  Jhe  mail  and  coasting 
st«amors  have  the  bell-boat  to  run  for,  but  we  cannot  state  its  efficiency. 

As  it 'has  been  frequently  stated  that  Beechy  did  not  intend  to  adopt  tho  range  Fort  Point 
and  Alcatraz  island  as  a  fair  way  over  tho  bar  to  the  entrance,  wo  here  quote  his  directions,  as 
published  under  authority  of  the  Lords  of  the  Admiralty.  "In  crossiqg  the  bar  It  is  well" to 
give  the  northern  shore  a  good  berth,  and  bring,  the  small  white  island,  Alcatrasses,  in  one 
with  the  fort  or  south  bluff,  if  it  can  be  conveniently  done,  as  they  may  then  insure  6  fathoms ; 
but  if  ships  get  to  the  northward  so  as  to  bring  tho  south  bluff  in  one  with  the  island  of  Yorba 
Buena,  they  will  find  but  4i;  »  »  *  *  to  the  northward  of  this  bearing  the  water  is  more 
shallow."  ; 

"Approaching  the  entrance,  the  island  of  Alcatrasses  may  be  opened  with  the  fort,  and  the 
best  directions  are  to  keep  mid-channol,  or  the  weather  side." 

In  his  narrative  he  says :  ' '  The  best  part  for  crossing  is  with  tho  island  of  Alcatrasses  in  one 
with  the  fort." — (Vol  1,  page  345.)  When  approaching  tho  harbor  he  steered  directly  into  it, 
and  in  crossing  the  bar  the  depth  of  water  gradually  diminished  to  5  fathoms;  "this  would 
liave  been  of  no  consequence  had  it  not  been  for  a  swell  which  rolled  so  heavily  over  tho  bank 
that  it  continually  broke;  and,  though  our  depth  of  water  was  never  loss  than  4^  fathoms,  the 
ship,  on  two  or  three  occasions,  disturbed  tho  sand  with  her  keel.  The  tide  was,  unfortunately, 
against  us,  and  the  swell  propelled  the  ship  just  sufficiently  fast  for  her  to  steer  without  gaining 
any  ground,  so  that  we  remained  in  this  position  several  hours." — (Vol.  1,  page  345.) 

Tho  U.  S.  sloop-of-war  Vincennes,  during  the  cruise  of  the  Exploring  Expedition,  anchored 
on  the  bar  in  a  calm,  and  when  the  flood  tide  made  it  brought  up  a  swell  that  broke  over  her. 

In  beating  out  vessels  start  on  the  last  quarter  of  the  flood,  make  the  first  tack  to  the  north- 
ward of  the  Blossom  Rock,  and  weather  it  on  the  second;  thence  they  keep  between  Alcatraz 
and  the  south  shore,  avoiding  Bird  Rock,  one  mile  west  of  tho  south  end  of  tho  island,  and 
giving  a  good  berth  to  Fort  Point,  past  which  the  ebb  current  will  carry  tliem  rapidly,  (with  a 
strong  tendency  towards  tho  south  shore,)  and  a  couple  more  tacks  carry  them  clear  of  tho 
heads.  If  tho  vessel  is  bound  to  the  northward,  and  the  weather  shuts  in  thick,  with  the  wind 
to  the  northwest,  she  maftes  a  tack  off  shore  to  the  southward  of  the  Farallones;  if  the  weather 
is  clear  short  tacks  are  made  off  shore  until  she  works  up  to  Los  Reyes,  because  the  sea  to  the 
leeward  of  that  headland  is  much  smoother  and  tho  current  less;  then  stands  off  until  a  course 
can  be  made  for  her  port. 

The  toinda. — It  has  been  advised  to  wotk  close  along  shore  to  northern  ports  during  tho 
summer  northwest  winds,  and  take  tho  chances  of  land  breezes  to  make  latitude,  but  the  attempt 
will  double  the  length  of  any  voyage.  Baffling  light  airs  and  calms  frequently  exist  along  the 
coast,  while  vessels  several  hundred  miles  off  have  strong  NW.  winds.  Moreover,  along  the 
coast  we  know  that  the  current  frequently  sets  two  miles  per  hour  from  the  northward.     In  our 


41 


EEPORT   OF   THE   SUPEKINT12n)ENT   OF 


experience  we  never  yet  have  met  with  a  wind  off  the  land  north  of  San  Francisco,  and  very 
rarely,  indeed,  south  of  it,  except  in  the  region  of  the  Santa  Barbara  channel.  As  a  general 
rule,  it  may  be  safely  stated  that  the  summer  winds  follow  the  line  of  the  coast,  nearly,  and 
gradually  draw  towards  and  over  the  land.  In  winter,  with  winds  from  the  southward,  this  is 
not  60  marked. 

Prom  April  to  October,  inclusive,  the  prevailing  wind  is  from  the  northwest,  changing  to 
west  in  valleys'  opening  upon  the  coast,  but  in  no  case  so  strongly  as  through  the  Golden  Gate. 
During  the  summer  the  wind  sets  in  strong  about  10  a.  m.,  increasing  until  nearly  sunset,  when 
it  begins  to  die  away.  During  its  height  it  almost  regularly  brings  in  a  dense  fog,  which, 
working  its  way  over  the  peninsula,  meets  that  already  advanced  through  the  Golden  Gate,  and 
envelopes  San  Francisco  and  the  bay  by  sunset.  As  a  rule,  the  breeze  does  not  dispel  the  fog. 
If  a  fog  exists  outside  the  wind  is  sure  to  bring  it  in,  but  the  heated  earth  dissipates  it  for  a  time. 
From  November  to  March  the  wind  is  frequently  from  the  southeast,  blowing  heavily,  working 
round  to  the  southwest,  with  a  large  and  broken  swell  from  the  SW.,  weather  thick,  rainy,  and 
squally;  the  wind  not  unfrequently  ending  at  NW.,  with  an  ugly  cross  sea.  During  heavy 
southeasters  the  sea  breaks  upon  the  San  Francisco  bar,  clean  across  the  entrance,  presenting 
a  fearful  sight. 

During  some  winters  a  hard  "norther"  will  spring  up  and  blow  steadily  and  strongly  from 
one  to  five  days,  with  a  clear  blue  sky  and  cold,  bracing  weather.  Winds  rarely  blow  from 
points  between  north,  round  by  the  east,  to  southeast. 

The  further  north  we  advance  the  heavier  blow  the  gales  in  the  winter.  The  northwest  winds 
are  not  predicted  by  the  barometer,  but,  from  the  southeast,  almost  invariably;  the  mercury 
falling  one  inch  from  its  usual  height  of  about  thirty  inches.  When  it  begins  to  rise  the  wind 
may  be  looked  upon  as  soon  to  shift  round  by  the  west,  and  to  decrease.  Only  in  one  instance 
during  our  experience  has  this  failed,  and  that  was  off  the  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca. 

The  seasons. — There  are  but  two  seasons  on  the  Pacific  coast,  usually  denominated  the  dry 
and  rainy  seasons;  the  former  corresponding  to  the  Atlantic  summer,  the  latter  to  the  winter; 
but  much  error  exists  in  regard  to  them,'  especially  as  to  the  amount  of  rain  falling  during  the 
rainy  season.  The  following  totals  of  rain  that  fell  at  San  Francisco  during  each  wet  season, 
from  1850  to  1857,  wiU  show  that  the  yearly  amount  is  not  great. 

During  the  wet  season  of  1850-51  there  fell    7.1  inches. 

1851-'52 

1852-'53 

1853-'54 

1 854-' 55 

1855-'56 

1856-'57  to  end  of  March  18.7  inches. 
The  following  table  will  show  how  these  amounts  were  distributed  each  month  from  Novem- 
ber, 1850,  to  March,  1857: 


18.0 
33.2 
23.0 
24.6 
21.3 


jan  monthly  rain  for  January, 

3.52  inches. 

"            "            "         February, 

3.37       " 

"           "           "         March, 

3.32      " 

'^           '*           "         April, 

3.07       " 

"           "         May, 

.73      " 

"           "           "         June, 

.00      " 

THE   UNITED   STATES  COAST   aURVEY.  4f 

Bfean  monthly  rain  for 


July, 

.00 

inches 

August, 

.00 

(( 

September, 

.18 

(1 

October, 

.45 

i  ( 

November, 

2.08 

i  ( 

December, 

4.45 

(1 

;e  of 21.17  inches. 

Giving  a  yearly  average  of 


These  figures  show  clearly  what  months  constitute  each  of  these  two  characteristic  seasons. 

To  follow  the  case  a  little  further,  we  find  that  for  seven  years,  from  1850  to  1856,  an  average 
of  0.5  inch  of  rain  fell  during  October;  2.1  inches  in  November;  1.2  inch  during  the  first  half 
of  December,  and  3.2  inches  during  the  latter  half  of  the  month;  2.3  inches  during  the  first 
half  of  January,  and  1.2  during  the  last  half;  0.8  inch  during  the  first  half  of  February, 
and  2.i  inches  during  the  last  half;  1.8  inch  during  the  first  half  of  March,  and  1.6  inch 
during  the  last  half;  1.5  inch  during  the  first  half  of  April,  and  1.2  inch  during  the  second; 
and  about  0. 7  inch  in  May. 

The  monthly  means  show  that  December  is  the  rainiest  month,  and  the  last  statement,  that 
during  the  last  half  of  December  and  the  first  half  of  January  more  than  one-fourtn  of  the 
average  falls.  There  is  a  very  notable  abatement  from  the  middle  of  January  to  the  middle  of 
February.  In  1851  we  noticed  this  particularly  when  stationed  at  Point  Pinos,  because  the 
above  period  was  much  prolonged.  Again,  in  1852,  while  observing  near  the  Presidio  of  San 
Francisco,  we  found  this  period  to  extend  from  the  early  part  of  January  to  near  the  end  of 
February.  During  the  latter  part  of  March  heavy  rains  occur,  and  about  the  middle  of  April. 
The  southerly  winds  generally  bring  the  rain.  During  the  seasons  we  passed  about  San  Fran- 
cisco, we  never  heard  thunder  or  saw  lightning;  and  never  but  once  saw  snow  fall,  and  then 
only  at  an  elevation  of  400  feet;  the  line  being  distinctly  marked,  and  the  elevation  being  well 
determined  by  a  knowledge  of  the  height  of  the  hills. 

The  followng  statement  will  give  a  general  idea  of  the  temperature  of  the  sea-board.  The 
interior  is  muCh  warmer,  but  on  account  of  the  dryness  of  the  atmosphere  the  effect  is  not  so 
enervating  to  the  system  as  a  lower  temperature  on  the  Atlantic. 


BEPORT   OP   THE   SUPEEINTENDENT   OF 


Mean  temperature  at  sunrise  and  noon  for  6   years  from  1851  to  1856,  computed  from  the 
California  State  register  for  1857: 


January 

February  

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Average 


Sunrise. 


Deg.  Fahr. 
44.0 
46.9 
47.6 
49  3 
49.9 
51.4 
62.6 
53.7 
54.0 
52.7 
49.8 
45.2 


49.7 


Noon. 


Deg.  Fahr. 
67.7 
60.5 
63.  1 
65.6 
64.5 
68.1 
67.8 
68.2 
69.9 
68.4 
61.9 
55.7 


The  lowest  temperature  experienced  at  San  Francisco  in  the  above  6  years  was  25°  Fah.,  in 
January,  1854.  In  1852,  '53,  '56,  the  temperature  was  always  above  freezing;  falling  no  lower 
than  40°  in  1853. 

The  highest  temperature  was  98°,  in  September,  1852,  and  that  may  be  considered  remarkably 
high;  90°  having  been  reached  but  once. 

Statistics. — Previous  to  the  discovery  of  gold  in  California,  San  Francisco  bay  furnished  few 
inducements  for  traders  or  whalers  to  visit.  Cattle  were  cheap,  but  about  the  only  provisions 
to  be  obtained,  and  these  were  valuable  solely  for  their  hide  and  tallow;  "fine  fat  bullocks, 
weighing  from  400  to  500  pounds,  hide  included,  were  purchased  at  $5  each,  and  sheep  at  $2." — 
(Belcher,  Vol.  1,  page  135.)  "All  the  forts  were  in  ruins  and  not  even  a  single  gun  mounted" 
at  the  time  of  his  visit  in  1837,  and  Wilkes'  description  of  the  few  miserable  adobe  buildings 
at  Yerba  Buena,  the  site  of  San  Francisco,  fully  proves  how  fast  the  country  was  driving  to 
wreck.  In  1848  the  resources,  the  population,  and  geography  of  the  State  were  almost  unknown ; 
but  since  then  she  has  commanded  the  attention  of  the  world.  She  stands  alone  as  an  example 
of  all  past  time  of  a  country  emerging  so  suddenly  from  obscurity,  and  at  one  gigantic  stride 
assuming  the  importance  and  complicated  relations  of  a  large  empire.  In  less  than  ten  years 
she  has  acquired  a  population  of  over  half  a  million,  and  has  developed  the  wonderful  resources 
COD  prised  within  her  limited  boundaries.  On  the  site  of  half  a  dozen  adobe  buildings  has 
risen  a  city  of  75,000  inhabitants,  in  whose  streets  s(f«  seen  the  dress  and  heard  the  tongue  of 
every  nation.  Over  600  ships,  under  every  known  flag,  have  been  anchored  at  one  time  in  the 
harbor  of  San  Francisco.  The  commercial  enterprise  developed  has  given  birth  to  a  new  era 
of  naval  architecture;  the  old  fashioned  full,  clumsy  bowed  ships,  that  carried  the  early  adven- 
turers round  Cape  Horn,  and  made  their  passages  in  something  less  than  a  year,  have  played 
out  their  part,  and  have  been  succeeded  by  the  famed  clippers.  At  the  close  of  1857  less 
than  ten  of  the  old  hulks  disfigured  the  harbor. 


THE   UNITED   STATES  COAST   SURVEY.  51 

In  the  first  three  qnarters  of  1849  no  less  than  509  large  vessela  entered  the  bay;  at  the  end 
of  August  of  that  year  there  wore  G2,000  tons  of  shipping  at  anchor,  exclusive  of  vessels  running 
on  the  Sacramento,  San  Joachim,  the  adjacent  bays  and  in  the  coasting  trade.  On  the  24th  of 
September  over  11,000  tons  of  shipping  entered  the  Golden  Gate,  and  at  the  end  of  September, 
there  were  94,500  tons  in  the  harbor.  For  a  city  one  year  o\^,  and  17,500  miles  from  the 
nearest  eastern  ports,  this  may  well  be  viewed  as  marvellous. 

Clipper  passages. — The  number  of  clippers  arriving  at  San  Francisco  from  Now  York  during 
the  8  years  1850  to  1857,  was  503,  and  the  average  length  of  the  passage  was  133  days.  In 
the  same  years  296  arrived  from  Boston,  and  the  average  passage  was  134  days. 

In  1850  six  clippers  arrived  from  New  York  averaging  only  115  days;  the  Sea  Witch  being 
reported  at  97  days,  but  her  actual  passage  was  101.  The  average  passage  of  all  American 
vessels  that  arrived  from  Atlantic  ports  was  187  days. 

In  1851  only  two  clippers  made  the  passage  in  less  than  100  days — the  Surprise  itt^,  and 
the  Flying  Cloud  in  90,  both  from  New  York. 

In  1852  the  Flying  Fish  made  it  in  98  days  from  Boston,  and  the  Sword  Fish  in  93  from  New 
York. 

In  1853  it  was  made  by  the  Contest  in  97  days,  Flying  Fish  in  92,  John  Gilpin  in  93,  and  the 
Oriental  reported  100;  all  from  Now  York. 

In  1854  the  passage  was  made  by  the  David  Brown  in  98  days,  the  Flying  Cloud  in  89,  the 
Hurricane  in  99  ,  the  Witchcraft  in  97  from  New  York;  and  by  the  Romance  of  the  Seas  in  96 
from  Boston. 

In  1855  no  vessel  made  it  in  100  days,  although  the  Herald  of  the  Morning  reported  in  100, 
and  Neptune's  Car  in  100  from  New  York,  and  the  Westward  Ho  in  100  from  Boston. 
In  1856  the  Antelope  made  it  in  97  days,  and  the  Sweepstakes  in  94  from  Now  York. 
In  1857  the  Flying  Dragon  arrived  in  98  days,  and  the  Great  Republic  in  92  from  New  York. 
The  Danish  clipper  Cimber  made  the  trip  from  Liverpool  in  106  days,  the  quickest  on  record. 
The  shortest  passage  made  from  New  York  to  San  Francisco  by  steamship,  via  the  Isthmus, 
was  by  the  Moses  Taylor  on  the  eastern  side,  and  the  Golden  Age  on  the  western;  their  actual 
running  time  19  days  23  hours;  totiil  time  from  dock  to  wharf  21  days,  2  hours,  13  minutes, 
arriving  at  San  Francisco  February  26,  1858. 

The  Northern  Light,  of  Boston,  is  reported  to  have  made  the  run  from  S«n  Francisco  to 
New  York,  in  ballast,  in  75j  days,  and  the  Trade  Wind,  with  cargo,  in  84  days. 

The  year  1857  will  very  well  represent  the  average  length  of  passages  from  other  ports,  and 
is  herewith  introduced. 

From  China  32  vessels  arrived,  averaging  59  days;  the  quickest  trip  from  Shanghai  being 
34  days,  by  the  Tern  Spray,  and  from  Hong  Kong  in  35  days,  by  the  schooner  Qiulietta. 

From  Honolulu  19  vessels  arrived,  averaging  19 J  days;  the  shortest  trip  being  made  by  the 
barque  Yankee,  in  13  days. 

From  Valparaiso  17  vessels  arrived,  averaging  53  days;  the  shortest  passage  being  made  by 
the  Danish  ship  Velox,  in  37  days. 

From  Australia  13  vessels  arrived,  averaging  81J  days;  the  shortest  passage  by  the  topsail 
schooner  Vaquero,  in  57  days. 

Tonnage  of  San  Francisco. — At  the  end  of  the  fiscal  year,  June  30,  1855,  there  were  registered, 
enrolled,  and  licensed,  at  the  custom-house  of  San  Francisco,  owned  wholly  or  in  part  by  citizens 


52      ^  EEPOET  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

of  California,  702  steam  and  sailing  vessels  engaged  in  trade  upon  the  Pacific,  distributed  under 
the  following  heads: 

Registered  tonnage. 

3  steamships 1, 058  tons. 

36  ships '■ 14,428  tons. 

59  barques 15, 999  tons. 

50  brigs 8, 592  tons. 

49  schooners • 5,887  tons. 

Total 45,964 

Enrolled  tannage. 

45  stenBships 11,223  tons. 

1  ship 386  tons. 

17  barques 3, 759  tons. 

28  brigs ■ 4,667  tons. 

127  schooners 8, 774  tons. 

59  sloops 2, 137  tons. 

Total 30,946 

In  addition  to  the  above,  there  were  licensed  at  that  time,  as  coasters,  228  schoone'rs 

and  sloops  below  20  tons  each,  with  an  aggregate  tonnage  of 2,399 

Making  a  total  of  permanent  registered,  enrolled,  and  licensed  tonnage  of  702 
vessels  of 79, 309 


We  have  no  means  now  at  hand  for  ascertaining  the  increase  up  to  1857,  but  the  following 
tables,  exhibiting  the  tonnage  entering  and  clearing  the  port  of  San  Francisco,  may  not  be 
without  interest: 

Tormage  of  the  port  of  San  Francisco. 


ABRIYAI8. 

DEPAETUKKS. 

Years. 

American  vessels 
from  American 
&  foreign  ports. 

Foreign    vessels 
from     foreign 
ports. 

American  vessels 
to  American  & 
foreign  ports. 

Foreign  vessels  to 
foreign  ports. 

1849 

Ihna. 
108,644 
255,428 
292,940 
268,737 
404,220 
336,058 
325, 102 
305,519 
382, 958 

Tbm. 

65,729 

131,628 

125,965 

132,094 

124,874 

76,127 

55, 148 

40,378 

44, 608 

Ihm. 

Books  of  custom- 
fire. 

344, 760 
501,229 
426,775 
369,213 
347,451 
291,879 

Tons. 

1850 

house  destroyed  by 

1851 

1852 

131,111 

1853 

137,110 

1854 

83,871 

1855 

48  322 

1866 

41,809 
45  143 

1857 

TUE    UNITED   STATES   6OA8T   SURVEY. 


53 


A  great  number  of  vessels  that  urrivod  iu   1849,  '50,  '51,  began  to  clear  in  1852,  when 
seamen  could  bo  obtained. 

Tho  following  shows  in  more  detail  the  shipping  operations  of  the  year  1857: 

Table  showing  the  shipping  entered  and  deared  at  the  port  of  San  Francisco  for  the  year  1857. 


Entered. 

Tons. 

No.  of  Amerioftn  Trurnli  firom  American  ports. ........ 

1,328 
130 
125 

291,561 

tio.  of  American  ▼e«eU  from  foreign  ports........... 

91, 397 

No.  of  foreiiim  vesBels  from  foreltrn  oorts  - .. 

44  608 

» 

1,583 

427,666 

No.  of  American  veMels  for  American  porta  .......... 

Clewed. 

616 
203 
1S9 

Tons. 

108,638 
183, 341 

No.  of  American  vcMels  for  foreign  port« 

No.  of  foreign  vaaeelB  for  foreign  ports....... ........ 

41,143 

848 

337,022 

The  difference  noticeable  between  the  vessels  entered  from  and  cleared  for  American  ports 
is  owing  to  tho  fact  that  these  vessels  are  not  required  to  clear  at  the  custom-house,  and 
therefore  many  departures  are  not  noticed. 

TaUe  showing  the  total  tonnage  entered  from  eastern  States  and  from  foreign  ports,  with  the  amount 

<f  freights  paid  upon,  the  cargoes. 


Years. 

Tons. 

Freight. 

1863 

407,235 
254,714 
247,682 
236,389 
197,814 

til, 752, 084 
5,311,612 

1864 

1866 

3,999,755 
4,592,104 
2,842,671 

1866 

1857 

The  steamship  tonnage  entered  from  Panama  and  San  Juan  del  Sud,  and  the  coasting  tonnage 
entered,  were  as  follows: 


YewB. 

9 

steamship. 

CoastliiK. 

1853 

7b«u. 

83,432 

85, 735 

77,280 

66,477 

47,716 

TonM. 
87,213 

1854 

59,  230 

1866 

146,495 
138, 149 

1B56 

1857 

182,036 

54  REPORT  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

During  the  years  1856,  185T,  the  movements  of  the  fillibuaters  retarded,  and  finally  put  a  stop 
to  all  travel  across  the  isthmus  of  Nicaragua,  and  the  steamships  were  hauled  o£F, 

TaNe  of  the  vcdtte  of  imports,  free  and  otherwise,  into  the  district  of  San  Francisco. 

1854 $5,899,620 

1855 7,144,075 

1856 9,155,507 

1857 6,397,354 

TaMe  showing  the  value  of  imports  of  certadn  articles,  siich  as  fiour,  grain,  salt  meats,  &c,,  now 

produced  in  Oalifamm. 

1853 * $14,021,940 

1854 5,161,586 

1855 2,444,626 

1856 1,248,343 

1857 1,631,467 

Toi)ie  showing  the  receipts  of  customs  at  the  port  of  San  Fram/nsco,  and  the  expenditures. 


Tear. 

Reoeipte. 

Expenditure*. 

1848,1849 

$1,581,640 
1,908,220 
2,316,675 
2,008,410 
2,589,406 
1,563,103 
1,804,904 
1,713,408 
Nearly   1,550,000. 

1860 

$303  03S 

1851 

1   009  436 

1852 

655  6()4 

1853 

684  114 

1854 

646  288 

1856 

438*684 

1856 

441  678 

1857 

Value  of  the  exports  of  GdLifornia  produce  from  Sam,  Francisco. 

1855 $4,877,519 

1856 4,157,265 

1857 4,493,845 

Of  these  amounts  the  following  are  the  principal  items  : 


Year. 

Wheat,  oats,  barley. 

Flour. 

Quicksilver. 

1854 

$50,638 

224, 993 

91,016 

$68,861 
815,960 
766,212 

$648,317 

1855 

975,621 

1856 

833,185 

1857 

954, 100 

THE    UNtTED    STATES   COAST   SURVEY. 


ss 


Tdble  thoicing  the  paaaengera  arrived  by  ettamship  and  sailing  veasda  at  the  port  of  San  FrcmcUoo. 


Tmt. 

Arrived. 

- 

91,405 
36,462 
27,182 
66, 988 
33,233 
47,631 
29, 198 
28,119 
24.769 

n«pftrted. 

• 

1849                 .... 

I860 

1851 

1852 

1853 

1854              

22,  946 
30,001 
23, 508 

1866 

1866 

185T 

22,898 
22,747 
16,  906 

The  following  table  will  exhibit  the  tonnage  movemeBt  of  the  principal  cities  of  the  United 
States  for  the  year  1856  : 


City. 

Entered. 

Clewed 

Total. 

KewYtrk 

1,681,669 
682, 166 
663,067 
346,897 
173, 179 

1,620,623 
647,404 
773,162 
389, 260 
129,739 

3,  202, 282 

Boston 

1,329,669 

1,436,229 

Rftn  FrAociiioo  ............ 

736, 157 

Philadelphia 

302, 918 

It  would  be  doing  injustice  to  the  State  not  to  give  a  few  facta  relating  to  her  principal 
mineral  wealth. 

The  average  amount  of  gold  taken  from  the  country  during  the  last  seven  years  has  been 
fully  $55,000,000  per  annum;  the  average  value  of  the  exported  cotton  crop  of  the  United 
SAtes  for  the  same  period  was  $100, 000, 000;  and  of  the  breadstuffs  and  provisions  $55,500,000. 

The  following  table  exhibits  the  amount  of  gold  shipped,  per  manifest,  from  San  Francisco 
from  1849  to  1857: 

1^9 $4,921,250 

1850 27,676,346 

1851 42,682,695 

1852 46,586, 134 

1853  57,331,024 

1854 II 51, .328,653 

1855 43,080,211 

1856 48,887,543 

1857 48,976,207 

To  the  end  of  1856  there  was  coined  at  the  United  States  mint  and  branches  $360,744,914 
of  California  gold,  but  the  amount  manifested  was  only  $322, 393, 856  for  the  same  period. 


u 


REPORT   OF   THE   SUPERINTENDENT   OF 


This  shows  that  138,351,058  had  been  carried  to  the  United  States  mint  by  private  hands,  and, 
allowing  that  a  large  amount  had  likewise  been  carried  to  foreign  countries,  we  may  safely 
assume  that  five  and  a  half  millions  are  annually  carried  out  of  the  State  by  persons  leaving 
it.     Of  the  amount  retained  in  the  State  for  circulation  we  can  form  no  fair  estimate. 
The  gold  coinage  of  the  branch  mint  at  San  Francisco  has  been  as  follows: 


Year. 

Coin. 

Bars. 

Total. 

1854               

$4,084,207 
16,498,300 
25,146,700 

$5,631,151 
3,359,377 
3,547,001 

$9,715,35S 
19  857   677 

1855                                             

1856 

28,693,701 

18570  

20  407.000 

*  Suspended  operations  about  five  months. 

The  following  figures  will  exhibit  the  marked  influence  which  the  gold  product  of  California 
has  had  upon  the  coinage  of  the  United  States.  Previous  to  1850  the  total^coinage  of  the 
Mint,  including  the  coinage  of  the  branch  mints,  from  the  commencement  of  their  operations, 
was  $85,349,201;  silver  coinage,  $30,344,808.-  From  1850  there  has  been  coined  of  gold, 
$370,889,738,  andof  silver  $75,581,465.  The  total  coinage  of  gold,  silver,  and  copper  for  the 
above  respective  periods  was  $150,017,714,  in  57  years;  and  $412,746,812  in  seven  years. 
The  entire  deposit  of  domestic  gold  at  the  mint  and  branches,  to  the  close  of  1856  was 
$3r8,880,7l3,   of  which  $360,744,914  were  from  California. 

Agriculture. — The  amount  of  land  in  California  adapted  to  the  purposes  of  agriculture  is 
estimated  at  41,622,400  acres,  exclusive  of  the  swamp  and  overflowed  lands,  estimated  at 
5,000,000;  which,  when  reclaimed,  will  produce  every  variety  of  crop.  On  the  Sacramento 
the  experiment  is  being  successfully  made  to  cultivate  rice  with  Chinese  labor.  The  amount 
of  grazing  land  is  estimated  at  30,000,000  acres.  The  amount  of  land  under  cultivation  in 
1856  was  578,963  acres;  and  of  that  enclosed  for  the  purposes  of  agriculture  about  120,000. 
The  amount  in  wheat  was  176,869  acres,  and  the  product  3,979,032  bushels;  in  barley  154,674 
acres,  and  the  product  4,639,678  bushels;  in  oats  37,602  acres,  and  the  product  1,263,359 
bushels.     Part  of  this  season  was  characterized  by  a  severe  drought.  < 

The  president  of  the  State  Agricultural  Society,  in  his  address  of  1856,  says:  "It  is  now  a 
well  ascertained  fact,  established  by  several  years'  experience,  that  California  stands  without  a 
rival  in  respect  to  her  capacity  for  producing  wheat  and  other  small  grains.  She  produces  it 
in  larger  quantities  to  the  acre,  of  better  quality,  with  more  certainty,  and  with  less  labor 
than  any  other  country  in  the  known  world." 

Dr.  Trask,  in  the  "  Geology  of  the  State,"  says:  "Toward  the  foot-hills  of  the  mountains 
on  the  west  of  the  San  Joachim  valley,  is  a  low  table  of  the  valley,  apparently  destitute  of 
water,  either  for  the  support  of  vegetation  or  animal  life;  in  some  parts  this  land  has  a  slight, 
gravelly  appearance,  but  this  is  not  general.  On  one  rancho,  situated  on  this  plateau,  there 
have  been  two  full  crops  of  barley  harvested  from  the  same  piece  of  ground,  and  when  I  visited 
this  place,  in  October,  the  third  crop  was  being  then  harrowed  in,  the  whole  having  occurred 
within  the  term  of  273  days." — (Page  54.) 

The  following  extract  from  the  report  of  the  visiting  committee  for  1856  will  best  illustrate 
the  extraordinary  capacity  of  the  soil  for  the  culture  of  this  important  grain :     ' '  Near  Alviso, 


THE    UNITED    STATES   COAST   SUEVET. 


J^ 


Santa  Clara  county,  there  is  a  field  of  barley,  fifty  acres  in  extent,  which  has  averaged  the 
pretont  season  forty-three  bushels  to  the  acre.  This  is  the  fifth  crop  from  a  single  sowing;  it 
has  received  no  special  care,  and  may  be  regarded  as  a  memorable  example  of  a  succession  of 
volnnteer  crops.  " 

The  cultivation  of  the  grape  and  its  manufacture  into  wines  and  brandies  is  rapidly  assuming 
a  degree  of  importance,  and  increasing  to  such  an  extent  that  these  products  must  soon  become 
one  of  the  mo.-^t  rclinblo  and  lucrative  branches  of  the  resources  of  the  State.  The  experience 
of  the  last  few  years  has  proved  conclusively  that  this  country  produces  this  fruit  in  the  greatest 
variety  and  abundance;  and  in  a  few  years  will  surpass  the  most  extensive  wine  producing 
countries  of  the  world.  The  number  of  vines  in  cultivation,  in  1856,  was  1,532,224,  and  the 
average  yield  over  fifteen  pounds  of  fruit.  The  number  of  all  kinds  of  fruit  trees  that  year 
was  1,296,783,  and  the  fruit  far  superior  to  any  on  the  Atlantic  or  Gulf  seaboard. 

The  two  great  staples,  cotton  and  flax,  will  soon  render  the  country  independent  of  other 
places  for  her  manufactures;  whilst  the  production  of  silk  bids  fair  to  go  hand  in  hand  with 
both.  The  true  wealth  of  the  country  has  but  commenced  its  development,  and  in  a  short 
period  she  will  successfully  compete  with  the  Atlantic  States  and  Europe  for  the  markets  of  the 
Pacific. 

Regular  mail  communication  is  maintained  by  steamships  with  the  Atlantic  and  the  Gulf 
States  twice  a  month  ;  crossing  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  by  47^  miles  of  railroad.  The  transit 
from  steamer  to  steamer  occupying  four  hours.  For  tho  year  ending  Juno  30,  1856, 
the  number  of  letters  conveyed  by  this  route  was  2,365,902,  and  newspapers  3,463,817;  the 
number  of  letters  and  newspapers  exchanged  between  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain,  in 
British  mails  by  the  Collins,  Cunard,  Bremen,  and  Havre  lines,  for  the  same  time,  was  3,909,128 
(letters,)  and  3,196,014  (newspapers.)     The  comparison  speaks  well  for  the  modern  El  Dorado. 

Tho  entrance  to  San  Francisco  bay  is  supposed  to  have  been  first  seen  by  Bartolome  Ferrelo, 
pilot  and  successor  to  Juan  Rodriguez  Cabrillo,  who,  running  down  the  coast  with  a  gale  strong 
from  the  north,  on  the  3d  of  March,  1543,  descried  what  he  supposed  to  be  the  mouth  of  a 
great  river,  having  every  appearance  of  draining  a  large  extent  of  country;  and  steering  SE. 
and  E.SE.  he  soon  after  sighted  Point  Pinos,  and  on  the  5th  the  port  in  tho  Island  of  Juan 
Rodriguez,  where  Cabrillo  is  supposed  to  have  died.  If  this  account  bo  correct,  he  was  the 
first  European  that  beheld  the  Golden  Gate. 

Sir  Francis  Drake  visited  California,  which  ho  named  Now  Albion,  in  1579,  and  we  are  of 
opinion  that  in  this  bay  he  overhauled  and  repaired  his  vessel;  "it  having  pleased  God  to  send 
him  into  a  fair  and  good  bay,  with  a  good  wind  to  enter  the  same."  Curiously  enough  wo  find 
the  statement  that  ' '  there  is  no  part  of  the  earth  here  to  be  taken  up  wherein  there  is  not 
some  probable  show  of  gold  and  silver."  The  bay  in  which  he  "triitmed"  his  ships  was 
certainly  known  before  the  timo  of  Vizcaino,  who  having  separated  from  his  tender  sought 
her  in  Port  Francisco,  and,  according  to  Vencga's  account,  "to  see  if  anything  was  to  be  found 
of  the  San  Augustine,  Avhich,  in  the  year  1595,  had,  by  order  of  his  majesty  and  the  viceroy, 
been  sent  from  the  Philippines  by  the  governor  to  survey  tho  coast  of  California,  under  the 
direction  of  Sebastian  Rodriguez  Ccrmenon,  a  pilot  of  known  abilities;  but  was  driven  ashore 
in  this  harbor  by  the  violence  of  the  wind;  and  amongst  others  on  board  the  San  Augustine 
was  the  pilot  Francisco  Volauos,  who  was  also  chief  pilot  of  the  squadron."  Others  suppose 
Vizcaino  to  have  ascended  San  Francisco  bay  as  far  as  the  present  site  of  Benicia. 

8 


58  REPORT   OF   THE   SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

Vizcaino  came  to  anchor  in  the  Capitana,  behind  the  high  point  of  land,  which  he  called  La 
Punta  de  Los  Reyes. 

A  land  discovery  of  the  bay  was  made  in  1769  by  Gaspar  de  Portola,  who  left  San  Diego  to 
establish  a  Jesuit  colony  at  Monterey,  but  by  travelling  along  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Coast 
mountains  he  passed  Monterey,  and  towards  the  close  of  October  came  unexpectedly  upon  the 
shores  of  a  great  bay,  which  they  supposed  to  be  the  Port  St.  Francisco  of  the  old  navigators. 
Having  no  supplies,  the  party  returned  to  San  Diego. 

Vancouver  visited  the  bay  in  1792  and  1793,  and  gives  a  good  genei-al  map  of  the  entrance. 

The  first  accurate  hydrographic  survey  was  made  by  Capt.  Fred.  W.  Beechy,  in  the  Blos- 
som, in  November,  1826,  he  carrying  his  work  to  the  Strait  of  Karquines. 

In  October,  1837,  Capt.  Sir  EdAvard  Belcher  ascended  the  Sacramento  with  the  boats  of  the 
Sulphur,  and  starting  from  the  ' '  Fork ' '  carried  the  survey  down  the  river  to  connect  with 
Beechy's  survey.  The  "Fork"  he  calls  Point  Victoria,  and  places  in  latitude  38°  46'  47"  and 
0°  47'  31".5  east  of  the  observatory  on  Yerba  Buena.  The  river  but  a  short  distance  above 
his  starting  point  was  fordable,  and  thence  to  its  mouth  traversed  in  its  meanderings  150 
miles. 

The  Coast  Survey  charts  of  1857  furnish  all  that  can  be  desired  in  regard  to  the  lower  part 
of  the  bay  of  San  Francisco,  the  upper  bays,  and  the  waters  approaching  the  mouth  of  the 
Sacramento. 

DUXBUEY  POINT  AND   EEEF. 

From  Point  Boneta  to  Duxbury  Point,  forming  the  west  side  of  Ballenas  bay,  the  course  is 
W.  by  N.  I  N.,  and  the  distance  9y  miles,  the  shore-line  at  the  base  of  the  hills  running 
nearly  two  points  more  to  the  northward  to  form  Ballenas  bay.  The  point  is  a  table-land 
about  100  feet  high,  stretching  along  the  coast  for  2  or  3  miles,  and  gradually  rising  until  it 
reaches  the  base  of  the  mountains.  The  bay  inside  the  point  is  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains, 
and,  except  small  crooked  channels,  is  bare  at  low  tides,  and  filled  with  small  islets.  The 
south  side  of  the  bay  is  bounded  by  a  long,  narrow  sand  spit,  stretching  so  nearly  across  it 
as  to  leave  an  entrance  of  but  100  yards  wide  at  the  southwest  part  of  it.  Only  a  few  small 
vessels  run  between  this  place  and  San  Francisco. 

Duxbury  reef  makes  out  over  a  mile  from  the  southwest  part  of  the  point,  and  stretches 
directly  towards  Point  Boneta,  with  4  to  8  fathoms  regular  bottom  of  sand  and  mud  between  it 
and  the  shore  to  the  eastward,  affording  safe  anchorage  in  northerly  weather. 

Quite  close  to  Duxbury  Point  the  steamship  S.  S.  Lewis  went  ashore,  April  9,  1853,  in  a 
thick  fog  and  calm,  while  running  at  her  ordinary  speed.  She  was  backed  off  and  ran  ashore 
again  within  a  few  hundred  yards  to  the  northward,  and  was  totally  lost  in  the  breakers. 

SIE  FBANCIS  DEAKE'S  BAY. 

From  the  tail  of  Duxbury  reef  to  the  west  end  of  Los  Reyes  the  course  is  W.  |  N.,  and 
distant  17  J  miles.  To  the  east  end  the  course  is  W.  by  N.,  distant  14f  miles.  From  Duxbury 
the  shore  is  bold  and  compact,  running  nearly  NW.  for  about  eight  miles,  then  curving 
regularly  to  the  westward  until  it  reaches  its  greatest  latitude  at  the  Estero  de  Limantour, 
which  bears  N.  by  E.  from  the  east  end  of  Los  Reyes,  distant  3  miles ;  thence  the  line  curves 
to  the  southward  and  southwest,  one  mile  west  of  the  point,  leaving  a  long,  high,  narrow 
point  stretching  to  the  east,  and  ofi"  which  the  breakers  extend  half  a  mile.     This  curving 


THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST    SUKVET.  69 

ehoro-line  forms  Sir  Francis  Drake's  bay,  which  affords  a  large  and  admirable  anchorage  in 
heavy  northwest  weather ;  and  by  anchoring  close  in  under  the  north  side  of  the  point,  in 
4  or  5  fathoms,  hard  bottom,  good  but  contracted  anchorage  is  obtained  in  soutbeitot  gales,  as 
the  swell  rolling  in  from  the  SW.  is  broken  by  the  reef. 

Several  esteros  or  lagoons  open  into  the  north  side  of  the  bay,  but  their  entrances  are  very 
narrow  and  shoal.  The  largest  is  the  Estero  de  Limantour,  near  which  the  Mexican  vessel 
Ayachucho  is  reported  to  have  been  wrecked  in  1841. 

The  shore  north  of  Boneta  is  bold  and  high,  presenting  a  marked  and  peculiar  undulating 
surface  on  the  sea  front.  This  characteristic  is  well  delineated  on  the  Coast  Survey  map  of 
the  approaches  and  entrance  to  San  Francisco  bay,  published  in  1857. 

North  of  Duxbury  the  hard  rocky  shore  gradually  merges  into  cliffs,  consisting  chiefly  of 
yellowish  clay  and  sand  resting  upon  granite,  and  as  the  surface  is  regularly  undulating,  Avith 
the  direction  of  tlie  alternate  ridges  and  valleys  at  right  angles  to  the  shore,  the  wearing 
action  of  the  surf  forms  a  continuous  series  of  round  topped,  bright,  vertical  bluffs,  averaging 
nearly  100  feet  high,  and  presenting  a  very  noticeable  feature  from  the  sea.  Its  resemblance 
to  portions  of  the  coast  of  England  was  one  of  the  reasons  which  induced  Drake  to  apply  the 
name  New  Albion  to  the  country. 

The  mountains  in  the  back  ground  rise  over  2,000  feet,  and  the  "Table  Mountain"  of 
Bcechy  attains  an  elevation  of  2, 570  feet^  but=many ^igliec  euBunito  are- found  beyond.  A 
few  large  red-wood  trees  are  seen  along  the  top  of  the  ridge. 

From  South  Farallone  light-house  Table  Mountain  bears  NE.  ^  N.,  distant  24  miles;  its 
geographical  position  is — 

O  I  II 

Latitude 37  55  43.0  north. 

Longitude 122  33  38.8  west. 

A.    m.      I. 

Or,  in  time 8  10  14.6. 

It  was  called  Mount  Palermo  by  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition,  but  is  known  only 
by  the  name  hero  used. 

Point  Reyes. 

This  is  the  most  prominent  and  remarkable  headland  north  of  Point  Conception.  It  is 
distinctly  visible  from  the  entrance  to  San  Francisco  bay,  and  the  summit  of  the  ridge  presents 
an  irregular  jagged  outline,  with  the  highest  part  about  one-fourth  of  its  length  from  the 
western  extremity.  Its  south  face  is  a  precipitous  wall  of  hard  sienitic  granite,  rising  boldly 
from  the  ocean,  attaining  an  elevation  of  597  feet  in  300  yards,  and  stretching  nearly  in  a 
straight  line  E.  by  N.  and  W.  by  S.  for  3  miles.  This  direction  is  peculiar  on  the  coast,  and 
would  not  be  expected  from  a  consideration  of  the  trend  of  the  coast  mountains  and  of  the 
Farallones,  which  are  in  line  NW.  and  SE.  On  the  north  side  the  cape  falls  away  regularly  to 
a  low  undulating  neck  of  land,  cut  up  by  esteros  making  in  from  Drake's  bay,  and  from-Tomalea 
bay  ou  the  nortli.  When  made  from  the  southward  it  is  raised  as  a  long,  high  island;  but  on 
approaching  it  from  the  westward  it  is  projected  upon  the  mountains  running  north  from  Table 
mountain,  and  its  characteristics  are  not  so  readily  recognized.  Its  base  is  very  broken  and 
rocky,  aod  bordered  by  crags  and  hundreds  of  rocks,  but  may  be  boldly  approached,  and  8 
fathoms,   hard   bottom,   obtained   within   less  than   a   quarter  of   a  mile.     Off  the   eastern 


6Q  REPORT   OF   THE   SUPERINTENDENT    OF 

extremity  a  reef  makes  out  half  a  mile  in  continuation  of  the  point.  Upon  this  reef  it  breaks 
heavily  in  bad  southerly  weather,  but  9  fathoms  can  be  had  close  to  the  breakers.  Off  the 
western  head  a  depth  of  12  fathoms  is  found  quite  near  to  the  rocks. 

Vessels  bound  to  San  Francisco  from  the  northward  always  make  Los  Eeyes,  and,  when  up  to 
it,  sight  two  mountains  on  the  southern  peninsula  of  San  Francisco  as  islands.  One  of  these 
is  Blue  mountain,  1,100  feet  high,  and  the  other  nearly  1,300  feet. 

The  ligU-honse  of  Punta  de  los  Reyes  is  in  course  of  construction  on  the  western  head,  about 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  point.  It  will  be  elevated  about  500  feet,  and  illuminate  a  sector 
of  255  degrees.     The  geographical  position  of  the  site  selected  is — 

o  /  // 

Latitude 37     59     3:T.4  north. 

Longitude 123     00     16  west. 

h.      m.         s.  .y 

Or,  in  time 8     12     01.1 

Magnetic  variation  15"  45'  E.,  in  1857,  with  a  yearly  increase  of  1'.4. 

This  headland  was  discovered  by  Cabrillo  in  1542,  and  placed  by  him  about  the  latitude  of 
40°;  but  by  applying  the  correction  1°  50',  obtained  from  his  erroneous  latitudes  of  San  Diego, 
Point  Conception,  (Cape  Galera,)  and  Punta  Gorda,  (San  Martin,)  the  latitude  of  40°  becomes 
38°  10',  which  is  within  ten  miles  of  the  Los  Reyes.  We  believe  he  called  it  Cabo  Mendozino, 
in  honor  of  the  viceroy  of  Mexico  who  despatched  him;  but  this  name  had  been  applied  to 
every  cape  jSrst  made  by  the  Spanish  galleons  on  the  passage  from  the  Philippines  to  La 
Natividad,  New  Spain.  In  this  region  Cabrillo  found  the  mountains  covered  with  snow.  There 
can  be  little  doubt  that  he  also  saw  the  Farallones. 

The  present  name  was  given  by  Vizcaino  in  1603. 

Los  Farallones  de  los  Frayles. — The  southern  and  principal  one  of  these  seven  small  rocky 
islets  lies  off  the  Golden  Gate,  at  a  distance  of  23^  miles;  the  whole  group  being  disposed  in 
a  nearly  continuous  line  running  NW. 

The  South  Farallonf  is  the  largest  and  highest,  extending  nearly  a  mile  east  and  west,  attaining 
an  elevation  of  about  340  feet  above  the  sea,  and  presenting  to  the  eye  a  mass  of  broken, 
jagged  rocks,  upon  which  no  vegetation  exists,  except  a  few  stunted  weeds.  The  rocks  are 
sharp,  angular  masses,  which,  becoming  detached  by  the  operations  of  natural  causes,  roll 
down  upon  the  more  level  parts  of  the  islet  and  cover  it  with  irregular  boulders.  Notwith- 
standing that  it  is  the  outcrop  of  an  immense  dyke  of  granite,  the  condition  of  the  superficial 
portion  is  such  that  it  could  be  separated  into  small  fragments  by  a  pick  or  crowbar.  A  more 
desolate  and  barren  place  can  hardly  be  imagined.  From  the  hills  about  the  Golden  Gate  the 
South  Farallone  is  plainly  visible,  rising  in  regular  pyramidal  form. 

South  Farallone  light-house.- — The  tower  stands  on  the  highest  peak  of  the  principal  island. 
It  is  built  of  brick,  17  feet  in  height,  and  is  surmounted  by  a  lantern  and  illuminating  appa- 
ratus of  the  first  order  of  the  system  of  Fresnel.  It  is  a  revolving  tohite  light  shoiving  a  prolonged 
flash  of  10  seconds  every  minute  throughout  the  horizon.  It  is  elevated  about  360  feet  above 
the  mean  level  of  the  sea,  and  should  be  visible,  ire  a  favorable  state  of  the  atmosphere,  from 
a  height  of — 

10  feet,  at  a  distance  of  25.4  miles. 

20  ....do. do.  •■•■  20.9      " 

30  ••••do. do.  .••■  28.1      " 

60....  do. do.  .■••30.7      " 


FOU    WHISTLE   ON   THE  SOUTH    FABALLON 
P*gr  61, 

AddiUon.  j^  January,  18.'i9,  a  ftg  whistle,  of  six  inches  in  diameter,  was  placed  on  the  south 
side  of  the  eastern  part  of  the  island,  about  275  feet  from  the  water.  It  is  erected 
over  a  natural  hole,  in  the  roof  of  a  subterranean  passage,  connected  with  and  open  to 
the  ocean,  and  is  blown  by  the  rush  of  air  through  the  passage,  caused  by  the  sea 
breaking  into  its  mouth.  The  sound  should  be  heard  in  the  vicinity  at  all  times,  (its 
loudness  depending  upon  the  height  of  the  tide  and  the  waves,)  except  about  an  hour 
and  a  half  before  and  alter  low  water,  when  the  sea  does  not  enter  the  mouth  of  the 
passage,     [t  is  said  to  have  been  heard  at  a  distance  of  seven  or  eight  miles. 

THE  M  DOLE   FABALLON, 

'!rrectu>o.  Is  a  single  rock,  between  50  and  60  yards  in  diameter,  and  rising  20  or  30  feet 
above  the  water.  It  lies  N.  56°  W.,  distant  2i  miles  from  the  light-house  on  the  South 
Farallon.  Its  geographical  {)Osition  is,  latitude,  37^  43'  38"  north,  and  longitude, 
123^  00'  5.')"  west. 

THE   NOBTH    FABALLONIS> 

Lie  nearly  in  line  with  each  other,  and  the  Middle  and  South  Farallones,  and  consist 
of  a  group  of  four  islets,  paving  a  pyramidal  appearance  as  their  name  denotes,  and 
comprised  within  a  space  of  little  more  than  half  a  mile  square.  The  northern  three 
are  quite  high  and  bold,  the  highest  peak  of  the  luiddle  one  attaining  an  elevation  of 
166  feet,  whilst  the  southern  one  of  the  group,  is  a  mere  rock  of  about  35  yards  in 
diameter,  and  hardly  20  feet  above  water.  Viewed  from  the  SW.  or  NK,  breakers 
extend  across  from  the  largest  islet,  to  the  next  one  southeast,  and  during  a  heavy 
ground  swell,  we  have  watched  it  breaking  on  an  isolated  sunken  rock,  lying  between 
the  northern  and  largest  islet.  From  certain  directions,  a  small  pyramidal  detached 
peak  shows  close  to  the  north  side  of  the  northern  islet. 

The  geographical  positions  and  extent  of  the  islets,  are  as  follows : 

Latitude. 

Northern  Islet 87  46  17  North. 

Middle  Islet, 37  45  59  North. 

Southern  Islet, 37  45  49  North. 

Rock  off  last, 37  45  51  North. 

The  northern  islet,  therefore  bears  N.  64°  W.  distant  6*  miles  from  the  light-house 

on  the  South  Farallon.      (This  correction  should  be  noted  in  the  nhith  line  of  the 

sixty-6>»rt4i  page. )     From  the  light-hoa^e  site  of   Punta  de  los  Reyes,  it  bears  south* 


Longitude. 

Extent, 

o        /     // 

Yards. 

123  05  25  West. 

160 

123  05  04  West. 

185 

123  04  54  West. 

125 

123  04  41  West. 

35 

r^^-tiT^ 


distant  14  miles. 


p 


THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST    SURVEY.  61 

At  near  dMUnces,  nnder  favorable  circumstances,  the  light  will  not  wholly  disappear  between 
the  intervals  of  greatest  brightness. 
The  geographical  position  nf  ilu>  licht-house,  as  given  by  the  Coast  Survey,  is — 

o  '  " 

Latitude 37     41     55.2  north. 

Longitude 122     59     05  west. 

A.       ni.         t. 

Or,  in  time 8     11     56.3. 

Magnetic  variation  15"  40'  east,  in  1857,  with  a  yearly  increase  of  1'.4. 

The  bearings  and  distances  of  prominent  objects  from  it  are — 

North  Farallom^  N W-.-by^VT.  T  to  1ft miles.  y'/" 

Western  head  of  Los  Reyes  N.  by  W.  |  "W,  17J  miles. 

Point  Boneta  light-house  NE.  by  E.  23J  miles. 

Bell-boat  off  San  Francisco  bar  NE.  by  E.  ^  E.  16  J  miles. 

Point  San  Pedro  E.  23J  miles.  ^ 

From  abreast  of  Fort  Point  the  light  is  just  visible  above  the  horizon. 

Vessels  from  the  westward  running  for  the  Golden  Gate  should  keep  to  the  southward  of  the 
South  Farallone,  especially  in  thick  weather.  To  the  westward  of  it  a  depth  of  50  fathoms  is 
obtained  at  a  distance  of  3  miles,  shoaling  to  20  fathoms  in  2  miles;  whereas,  inside  of  it, 
the  bottom  is  very  regular  at  30  fathoms  for  ten  miles,  and  then  decreases  regularly  to  the  bell- 
boat.     On  the  SE.  side  of  the  island  there  is  said  to  be  good  holding  ground  in  15  fathoms. 

The  San  Francisco  pilot  boats  cruise  off  the  island. 

Tides. — The  corrected  establishment  or  mean  interval  between  the  time  of  the  moon's  transit 
and  the  time  of  high  water  is  Xh.  XXXVIIm.,  and  the  difference  between  the  greatest  and 
least  intervals  Ih.  16m.  The  mean  rise  and  fall  of  tides  is  3.6  feet;  of  spring  tides  4.4  feet, 
and  of  neap  tides  2.8  feet.     The  mean  duration  of  the  flood  is  Gh.  18m.,  and  of  the  ebb  6^.  0dm. 

An  extended  and  detailed  examination  around  the  island  has  not  yet  been  made. 

The  Middle  Farallone  lies  N.NW.  from  the  South  Farallone,  at  an  estimated  distance  of  two 
miles^    It  is  a  single  rock  of  small  extent,  and  rises  20  or  30  feet  above  water. 

The  North  Farallones  lie  NW.  by  W.  from  the  south,  and  distant,  by  estimation,  from  7  to 
10  miles.  They  form  a  group  of  five  small  rocky  islets,  rising  to  a  height  of  about  150  feet, 
and  having  a  pyramidal  appearance,  as  their  name  denotes.  They  boar  about  S.  by  W.  from 
Los  Reyes,  at  an  estimated  distance  of  11 J  miles.  Their  position  has  not  yet  been  accurately 
determined,  nor  has  any  detailed  hydrographic  survey  been  made  around  them. 

To  the  southward  and  eastward  from  the  North  Farallone,  at  a  distance  of  two  miles,  we  are 
informed  that  a  sunken  rock  exists,  having  4  fathoms  water  upon  it,  with  kelp  around  it,  except 
when  torn  away  by  storms.  In  good  weather  the  fishermen  fish  around  it,  but  in  bad  weather 
the  sea  breaks  upon  it.  Wo  called  attention  to  this  several  years  ago,  and  since  then  have 
met  with  a  Russian  volume  of  charts,  published  at  New  Archangel,  in  1848,  wherein  a  rock  in 
this  vicinity  is  marked  "overflowed."  For  two  miles  W.NW.  off  these  islets  rocky  bottom  is 
found  in  25  fathoms;  tiience  to  Los  Reyes  the  depth  increases  to  50  fathoms  about  midway. 

The  Farallones  de  los  Frayles  were  discovered  by  Ferrelo  in  February,  1543,  and  he  is  stated 
to  have  seen  six  islands  in  this  vicinity,  one  large  and  five  very  small,  which  Cabrillo  had 
passed  on  the  previous  voyage.  The  five  small  islands  were  doubtless  the  northern  group, 
the  large  one  the  South  Farallone,  and  the  middle  might  very  readily  be  missed  on  account  of 


62  REPORT  OF  THE  SDPERmTENDENT  OP 

its  smallness.     He  states  that  for  five  days  it  was  impossible  to  effect  a  landing  upon  them  on 
account  of  the  southwest  winds  and  heavy  sea. 

Sir  Francis  Drake  is  the  first  that  specially  mentions  them,  in  1579,  as  lying  off  the  harbor 
or  bay  where  he  refitted  his  ships. 

In  some  recent  maps  they  are  omitted. 

Point  Tomales  and  Tomales  lay. — Northward  of  Punta  de  los  Reyes  we  find  a  long  reach  of 
broad  white  sand  beach,  backed  by  sand  dunes,  and  extending  in  a  N.  ^  E.  direction  about  9 
miles,  gradually  curving  to  the  northwest,  and  changing  to  a  high  precipitous  coast  running  to 
Point  Tomales,  which  bears  N.  by  W.  14  miles  from  Los  Eeyes.  Close  to  the  point  are  several 
high  rocky  islets.  Vessels  in  thick  weather  should  not  approach  this  stretch  of  coast  in  less 
than  30  fathoms.  The  steep  hills  which  commence  from  the  sand  dunes  form  a  narrow  ridge 
that  attains  an  elevation  of  nearly  700  feet.  This  is  about  1^  mile  in  width,  and  is  bounded 
on  the  east  by  the  bay  of  Tomales,  which  extends  towards  the  southeast  about  12  miles,  and 
beyond  the  head  of -the  Estero  de  Limantour,  coming  in  from  Sir  Francis  Drake's  bay.  The 
Bay  of  Tomales  is  narrow  and  very  shoal,  being  nearly  bare  at  low  water,  but  having  a  small 
tortuous  channel  for  a  considerable  distance  up.  The  entrance  is  narrow  and  obstructed  by  a 
bar,  having,  it  is  reported,  18  feet  water  upon  it  at  high  tide.  With  the  least  swell  from 
seaward  it  breaks  ail  over  the  entrance. 

The  ship  Oxford,  after  getting  ashore  on  the  outside  of  the  point,  floated  off,  drifted  into 
this  bay  over  the  bar,  grounded  on  the  flats,  and  at  the  next  high  water  was  floated  off  again. 
Small  vessels  carry  the  agricultural  products  of  the  immediate  vicinity  to  San  Francisco,  and  a 
considerable  trafiic  is  carried  on  in  clams,  crabs,  and  fish. 

In  February,  1857,  the  waters  of  the  bay  changed  to  a  deep  purple  color,  and  the  fish  died 
in  such  great  numbers  that  the  beaches  and  water  were  covered  with  them. 

This  bay  was  known  as  Port  Juan  Francisco  by  the  Spaniards  when  Vancouver  visited  the 
coast  in  1792.     The  present  name  v<?As  given  to  it  on  account  of  its  peculiar  shape.  j^^  . 

Belcher  ei-roneously  designates  it  as  a  part  of  Bodega  bay.  The  topography  of  its  entrance 
was  executed  by  the  Coast  Survey  in  1853. 

Bodega  Head  lies  NW.  by  N.  |  N.  18  miles  from  Los  Reyes,  and  forms  the  northern  point  of 
Bodega  bay,  considering  Tomales  point  the  southern.  The  Head  is  two  or  three  hundred  feet 
high  with  a  slightly  rounding  summit,  and  continues  of  nearly  the  same  height  for  a  mile  or 
two  northward,  where  it  changes  to  a  broad  sand  beach  with  low  country  near,  but  high  hills 
in  the  back  ground.  The  face  of  the  land  about  here  begins  to  change  from  its  uniform  want 
of  trees  to  hills  partially  covered.  It  has  been  frequently  held  out  as  a  warning  not  to  mistake 
Bodega  Head  for  Punta  de  los  Reyes,  but  there  exists  no  reasonable  ground  for  raising  a  question 
on  this  subject,  although  navigators,  who  have  lost  or  jeopardized  vessels,  ofi"er  as  an  excuse 
the  great  similarity  of  the  coast  and  headlands  to  those  near  the  Golden  Gate.  We  have  never 
been  able  to  detect  it. 

BODEGA  BAT. 

From  Tomales  bay  to  Bodega  Head  the  course  is  NW.  by  W.  \  W.,  and  distance  5  miles; 
while  the  average  depth  of  the  bay  to  the  eastward  of  this  line  is  1^  mile.  Eastward  of 
Point  Tomales  the  bay  or  roadstead  acquires  its  full  width  at  once  by  the  shore  running  well 
east  from  the  opposite  side  of  the  entrance  to  Tomales  bay.  At  Bodega  Head  the  shore  runs 
northward  to  the  entrance  of  the  shallow  lagoon  for  nearly  a  mile,  then  curves  to  the  eastward 


TOE   tWlTED   STATES  COAST   SURVEY.  63 

ivlong  a  lo\VLiiarrow  saod  epit  for  over  a  mile;  thence  Houtbeastward  in  a  lino  parallel  to  the  two 
headlands.  The  tihoro  about  the  middle  of  the  bay  becomes  high,  abrupt,  and  guarded  by 
numerous  high  rocks.  Inside  of  the  low  sand  spit  is  an  extensive  lagoon,  having  small  intricate 
channels,  but  almost  destitute  of  water  at  low  tides.  The  produce  of  the  country  is  placed  in 
lighters  at  the  "port,"  or  embarcadero,  about  one  mile  within  the  lagoon,  and  floated  with 
the  currents  to  the  anchorage,  which  is  about  half  a  mile  off  the  entrance  in  5  or  6  fathoms, 
(hard  bottom,  of  coarse  sand  and  small  patches  of  clay,)  somewhat  protected  by  Bodega  Head 
and  a  rocky  islet  and  reef  extending  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  off  its  southwest  face  from 
the  full  force  of  the  northwest  swell,  which  generally  rolls  in  disagreeably'.  The  reef  off  the 
Head  is  densely  covered  with  kelp.  During  the  winter  season  it  is  necessary  to  anchor  well 
out  to  be  ready  to  slip  and  run,  as  the  sea  room  is  very  contracted  and  the  swell  heavy. 
Vessels  in  beating  out  must  keep  clear  of  the  reef,  the  outline  of  which  is  well  marked  by  the 
kelp.     Some  vessels  have  ridden  out  very  heavy  southeastors,  but  several  have  been  lost. 

The  country  in  the  vicinity  of  the  bay  is  very  productive,  both  in  the  valleys  and  upon  the 
hills.  A  fine  tract  of  agricultural  country  stretches  behind  the  coast  hills,  extending  from 
Russian  river  to  l*etaluma  creek,  by  which  channel  the  produce  of  this  region  finds  its  way  to 
San  Francisco. 

The  secondary  astronomical  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  was  upon  the  western  end  of  the 
sand  siilt-  it<  fOAsrraphical  position  is: 

Latitude 38     18     W.»,  north. 

Longitude 123     02     29,      west. 

h.       m,         I, 

Or,  in  time 8     12     09.9 

Tides. — The  corrected  establishment  or  mean  interval  between  the  time  of  the  moon's  transit 
and  the  time  of  high  water  is  XIA.  XYlIm. ;  and  the  difference  between  the  greatest  and  least 
intervals  is  lA.  54m.  The  mean  rise  and  fall  of  tides  is  3.6  feet;  of  spring  tides  4.7  feet;  and  of 
neap  tides  2.7  feet.     The  mean  dir-ection  of  the  flood  is  Gk.  19m.  and  of  the  ebb  5A.  59m. 

Bodega  bay  was  discovered  by  Heceta  and  Bodega  in  1775,  and  placed  in  latitude  38°  18' 
north.     It  was  partially  examined  by  Mr.  Puget,  under  Vancouver's  direction,   in  1792. 

In  1812,  by  permission  of  the  Spanish  governor  of  California,  it  was  occupied  by  the  Russian 
American  Company,  who  afterwards  refused  to  give  it  vtff,  and  retained  possession  until  1841. 
They  erected  two  large  wooden  houses  under  the  bluff,  at  the  entrance  to  the  lagoon;  but  these 
buildings  were  in  ruins  at  the  time  of  our  visit  in  1853.  A  recent  Russian  work  (1848)  says: 
"The  bay  of  Bodega  (Tuliatoelivo)  was  fully  described  in  1819  by  Captain  Hagemeister.  It  is 
similar  to  the  port  of  Trinidad,  in  being  convenient  only  during  the  summer,  when  the  northwest 
winds  blow  along  the  coast;  at  any  other  season  it  is  dangerous.  Both  its  indentations  within 
the  NW.  and  SE.  headlands  are  shallow  and  contracted,  and,  therefore,  it  is  necessary  to  anchor 
in  the  open  roadstead. ' ' 

In  1839,  under  Belcher's  orders,  Kellett  commenced  the  survey  of  Bodega,  in  the  schooner 
Starling,  and  was  soon  after  joined  by  the  Sulphur. 

The  line  of  equal  magnetic  variation  of  16°  east  crosses  the  coast  line  of  Bodega  bay  in  latitude 
38°  15';  and  in  latitude  38°  06'  crosses  the  124th  degree  of  longitude.  This  is  for  January, 
1859.     The  line  moves  southward  about  a  mile  and  a  half  annually. 

Fort  Boas. — The  rocky,  contracted,  and  unsafe  anchorage  off  this  place  is  NW.  |  N.  from  Los 
Reyes;  distance  32  miles,  and  15  miles  from  Bodega  Head.     The  large  white  buildings  of  the 


64  EEPOET  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

Russians  on  the  rising  ground,  and  about  100  feet  above  the  sea,  are  the  only  marks  for  making 
it,  and  the  shore  is  so  steep  and  guarded  by  rocks  and  reefs  as  to  render  approach  dangerous* 

No  trade  is  now  carried  on  here. 

The  approximate  geographical  position  is : 

o       / 

Latitude  - 38     30  north. 

Longitude 123     13  west. 

On  some  charts  it  is  erroneously  placed  in  Bodega  bay,  with  a  large  river  running  from  the 
northward  into  the  bay.     Belcher  states  it  to  be  30  miles  north  of  Bodega. 

The  shore  between  Bodega  and  Fort  Ross  curves  slightly  eastward,  and  for  several  miles 
north  of  Bodega  Head  is  bounded  by  a  broad  sand  beach.  Halfway  towards  Ross  the  ' '  Russian 
river"  empties  into  the  sea,  coming  through  a  broad  valley,  northward  of  which  and  some 
distance  inland  commence  the  high  hills,  covered  with  timber,  which  gradually  approach  th  e 
coast  until  only  a  narrow  space  of  open  rolling  land  is  found  at  Fort  Ross;  and  the  Russian 
vessels' formerly  used  this  as  the  distinctive  mark  of  its  position.  The  coast  and  coast  hills  to 
the  northward  are  mostly  covered  with  dense  forests  of  immense  trees  and  thick  undergrowth. 

From  Fort  Ross  to  Punta  de  Arena  the  coast  is  almost  straight,  running  NW.  by  W.  |  W. 
for  37  miles.  It  is  compact  and  abrupt  the  whole  distance;  covered  with  trees  to  the  water's 
edge,  and  backed  by  an  unbroken  ridge  of  hills  about  2,000  feet  high,  and  wooded  to  their 
summits. 

Haven's  Anchorage. — About  24  miles  northwestward  along  the  coast  from  Fort  Ross  is  a  con- 
tracted anchorage  under  high  precipitous  rocky  islets,  with  a  short  stretch  of  beach  on  the 
main  affording  a  boat  landing.  There  is  a  protection,  when  anchored  close  in,  against  heavy 
northwest  weather;  but  it  would  be  very  difficult  to  recognize  the  locality  unless  the  position 
of  a  vessel  approaching  _it  were  accurately  determined. 

On  the  top  of  the  bluff,  at  the  north  side  of  a  small  gulley,  a  secondary  astronomical  station 
of  the  Coast  Survey  was  established  in  1853.     Its  geographical  position  is: 

o         /  // 

Latitude 38  47  58.0  north. 

Longitude  •  • 123  34  00.8  west. 

Or,  in  time * 8  14  16.0 

Northward  of  this  anchorage  high,  bold  rocks  line  the  coast  for  four  or  five  miles. 
Punta  de  Arena. — This  is  the  first  prominent  headland  north  of  Los  Reyes,  from  which  it 
bears  NW.  ^  W.,  distant  67  miles.  Approached  either  from  the  northward  or  southward,  it 
presents  a  long  level  plateau,  stretching  out  about  two  miles  west  of  the  high  lands,  and  termi- 
nating in  a  perpendicular  blufi"  that  averages  about  200  feet  in  height,  except  the  extreme 
northwest  part,  which  is  comparatively  low,  partially  covered  with  sand,  and  destitute  of  trees 
for  some  distance  inland.  When  seen  from  the  southward,  mth  the  sun  shining  upon  the  face 
of  the  bluff,  it  shows  remarkably  white  for  the  length  of  two  miles.  In  fact,  no  point  upon  the 
coast  presents  such  a  bright  appearance,  or  such  uniform  vertical  bluffs,  composed  of  hard 
rocks,  twisted  and  distorted  into  many  plications.  Bold  water  is  found  close  off  the  point 
outside  the  kelp,  which,  stretching  strongly  to  the  southward,  shows  the  set  and  comparative 
strength  of  the  current.  In  October,  1857,  we  judged  it  to  be  running  at  the  rate  of  not  less 
than  two  miles  an  hour.     In  July,  1853,  the  computed  distances  between  the  astronomical 


THE   UNITED   STATES  COAST   8DBVKY.  65 

stations  compared  with  tho  indications  of  MnsBoy's  patent  log,  showed  a  current  of  from  one  or 
two  mili'8,  running  along  tho  coast  to  tho  southward. 

About  two  miles  southward  of  the  point  a  small  contracted  valley  opens  upon  tho  shoro  and 
oflF  it  is  an  anchorage  for  small  vessels,  moderately  well  protected  from  tho  northwest  swell, 
but  open  to  the  southwest.  Several  schooners  have  gone  ashore  here.  A  largo  bed  of  kelp 
lies  off  the  anchorage. 

About  a  mile  and  a  half  N.  by  W.  from  the  point  are  several  rocks  showing  just  ab&ve 
water,  and  upon  which  the  least  swell  breaks.  These  were  noticed  by  Vancouver  in  October, 
1793.  When  one  milo  broad  off  Arena,  a  high,  sharp  pinnacle  rock  shows  well  out  from  the  shoro 
on  the  horizon  to  the  southward,  with  some  rocky  islets  inside,  and  breakers  well  out  boyond 
the  pinnacle  rock,  yet  northward  of  it;  but  their  distances  from  shore  are  not  probably  as  much 
as  a  milow 

The  approximate  geographical  position  of  Punta  de»Arona  is — 

O         I 

Latitude 38  57  north. 

Longitude 123  45  west. 

A  recommendation  has  been  made  for  a  light-house  upon  this  point,  which  is  much  needed  by 
the  mail  and  coasting  steamers  and  sailing  vessels. 

The  appearance  of  this  and  adjacent  parts  of  the  coast  induced  Sir  Francis  Drake  to  call  the 
land  New  Albion,  whilst  the  same  appearance  and  sandy  line  to  the  northward  of  it  doubtless 
led  the  Spaniards  to  designate  it  La  Punta  de  Arena;  It  suggests  an  inquiry  concerning  tho 
numerous  Cape  Blancos  that  are  found  in  thoir  voyages  and  maps. 

Albion  river. — From  Point  Arena  the  first  point  to  the  northwestward  is  24  miles  distant,  and 
bearing  N  W.  by  N.  §  N.  After  passing  Arena  the  coaat  falls  to  tho  eastward  of  north,  and  for 
six  miles  presents  a  low  shore-line  with  sand  beach,  changing  suddenly  to  a  straight,  high,  bluff 
shoro  with  a  few  trees,  and  backed  within  half  a  mile  by  hills  of  2,000  feet,  covered  to  their 
summits  with  wood.  Sixteen  and  a  half  miles  from  Arena  is  tho  mouth  of  tho  Albion  river,  a 
very  small  stream,  with  the  barest  apology  for  a  harbor  at  its  mouth.  A  saw-mill  upon  this 
stream  induces  coasters  to  obtain  freights  here,  but  a  great  many  of  those  trading  have  Jt)oen  lost. 
The  Coast  Surveying  steamer  Active  passed  in,  but  broke  her  anchor  on  the  rocky  bottom. 

Mendocino  bay. — Twenty  and  a  half  miles  from  Arena,  and  four  above  Albion  river,  is  a 
contracted  indentation  called  Mendocino  bay,  available  for  a  few  vessels  in  summer,  but 
dangerous  in  winter.  The  northern  and  southern  points  are  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
apart,  and  the  eastern  shore  retreats  nearly  half  a  mile.  At  the  southern  head  are  several 
small  rocks  and  ono  large  islet  surrounded^  by  rocks,  off  which  are  heavy  breakers.  Midway 
between  tho  heads  is  a  small  reef  upon  which  tho  sea  breaks  heavily,  with  very  little  swell. 
Deep  water  is  found  close  around  this  reef.  Off  the  northern  head  is  very  bold  water  close  to 
it.  Into  the  northeast  part  of  the  bay  enters  the  river  Noyon  or  Rio  Grande,  between  two  and 
three  hundred  yards  wide,  with  a  good  channel  on  the  southern  side,  a  broad  sand  flat  on  the 
northern,  and  a  bar  at  the  mouth  with  but  a  few  feet  of  water,  and  upon  which  it  always 
breaks.  The  eastern  shoro  is  bold  and  rocky.  In  the  southeastern  part  is  a  sand  beach,  with 
a  reef  extending  from  its  centre. 

The  bay  forms  such  a  slight  indentation  in  the  coast-line  that  it  is  difficult  to  find^  without 
acquaintance  with  its  minutest  peculiarities,  as  there  are  no  prominent  marks  by  which  to 
determine  it.     The  north  head  is  a  table  bluff  about  60  feet  high,  and  destitute  of  trees  to  the 
9 


66  KEPOET  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OP 

northward  and  some  distance  inshore.  The  south  bluff  is  likewise  destitute  of  trees,  but  more 
irregular  in  outline  than  the  other.  Vessels  bound  for  it  in  summer  work  a  little  to  windward, 
then  run  boldly  in  towards  the  north  point  upon  which  the  houses  become  recognized;  keep 
close  as  possible  along  the  shore,  gradually  decreasing  the  distance  to  100  yards  just  off  the 
south  end  of  the  point  in  6  fathoms;  run  on  about  150  yards  past  the  point;  head  up  hand- 
somely and  anchor  in  5  or  6  fathoms  hard  bottom.  It  is  a  bad  berth  in  summer ;  and  in  winter 
a  vessel  must  anchor  far  enough  out  to  be  able  to  slip  her  cable  and  go  to  sea  upon  the  first 
appearance  of  a  southeaster.     Several  vessels  have  been  driven  ashore  here. 

An  extensive  saw-mill  is  located  on  the  north  side  of  the  river  some  distance  up;  formerly 
(1853)  it  was  on  the  north  head,  and  a  stationary  engine  was  placed  near  the  mouth  of  the 
river  to  draw  loaded  cars  up  the  inclined  plane,  whence  they  were  drawn  to  the  mill.  The 
lumber  was  slid  down  shutes  into  large  scows. 

The  place  is  now  sometimes  called  Meiggsville ;  formerly  it  was  Mendocino  City. 

The  secondary  astronomical  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  is  on  the  north  head,  and  its 
geographical  position — 

O         I  II 

Latitude 39  18  06.1  north. 

Longitude 123  47  25.6  west. 

h.    m.     s. 

Or,  in  time 8  15  09.7. 

Magnetic  variation,  16°  35'  E.,  July,  1857;  increasing  about  1'.4  yearly. 

From  the  point  just  north  of  Mendocino  bay,  (the  first  one  made  from  Arena,)  the  shore  runs 
nearly  straight  for  28  miles  N.  by  W.  ^  W.,  being  low  and  bounded  by  rocks  for  12  miles, 
when  the  back  hills  reach  the  water  and  present  an  almost  vertical  front  2,000  feet  in  height. 

From  the  deepest  part  of  the#bighf,  the  general  trend  of  the  coast  to  Cape  Mendocino  is 
NW.  I  W.,  and  distance  45  miles,  and  for  the  whole  of  this  distance  it  is  particularly  bold  and 
forbidding,  the  range  of  hills  running  parallel  to  the  shore  and  rising  directly  from  it.  It  has 
been  found  impossible  to  travel  along  this  stretch  of  seaboard,  and  the  trail  turns  well  into  the 
interior  valleys. 

For  January,  1859,  the  line  of  equal  magnetic  variation  of  17°  east  crosses  the  coast-line 
in  latitude  39°  58';  and  in  latitude  39°  48'  crosses  the  125°  of  longitude.  This  line  moves 
southward  about  a  mile  and  a  half  annually. 

SHELTER    COVE. 

From  the  compact  shore  above  described,  a  plateau,  destitute  of  wood,  and  being  from  60 
to  300  feet  in  height,  makes  square  out  just  above  latitude  40°  N.  for  a  distance  of  half  a  mile, 
affording  an  anchorage  from  northwest  winds,  and  may,  perhaps,  be  regarded  as  a  harbor  of 
refuge  for  small  coasters  which  have  experienced  heavy  weather  off  Cape  Mendocino,  and  are 
short  of  wood  and  water,  both  of  which  may  be  obtained  here  from  one  or  Wo  gulches  open- 
ing upon  the  sea.  ' 

From  Point  Arena  it  bears  NW.  by  N.  ^  N. ,  distant  65  miles.  The  whole  sea-face  of  the 
bluff  is  bounded  by  thousands  of  rocks  above  and  below  water,  and  vessels  coming  from  the 
north  for  shelter  must  give  it  a  wide  berth,  rounding  it  within  one-third  of  a  mile,  and 
anchoring  in  5  fathoms,  hard  bottom,  about  one-third  of  a  mile  from  shore.  In  this  position 
fresh  water  comes  down  a  ravine  bearing  about  north,  and  an  Indian  village  existed  in  1853  at 


THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST   8USVKY.  G7 

tho  bottom  of  tho  wooded  ravino  a  littlo  further  to  the  eastward.     There  is  lUwayH  a  swell  here, 
and  boat  landing  may  not  bo  very  easy. 

The  secondary  astronomical  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  was  on  the  southeast  part  of  the  bluff, 
about  60  feet  above  the  sea;  its  geographical  position  is: 

Liititudo 40  01  13.7  north. 

Longitude 124  03  02.9  west. 

A.      m.      1. 

Or,  in  time 8     16  12.2.  ^ 

Magnetic  variation,  17°  02'  oast,  in  July,  1857;  increasing  about  1'.4  yearly. 
Upon  old  Spanish  charts,  a  point  in  this  vicinity  is  designated  Point  Delgado,  doubtless 
referring  to  it. 

A  hydrographic  sketch  of  Shelter  Cove  accompanied  the  Coast  Survey  Report  for  1854. 

PUNTA  OORDA.  ^ 

Is  17  miles  NW.  by  W.  J  W.  from  Shelter  Cove,  and,  as  its  name  implies,  is  a  largo,  bold 
rounding  point.  Half  a  mile  off  it  lies  a  largo  rocky  islet  with  rocks  close  in  shore  north  of  tho 
point.  From  Punta  de  Arena  it  bears  NW.  J  N.,  distant  81  miles,  and  tlie  line  passing  tangent 
to  Punta  Gorda  runs  one  mile  outside  of  Capo  Mendocino. 

CAPE  MENDOCINO 

Is  93  miles  NW.  |  N.  from  Punta  de  Arena.  Here  the  range  of  coast  hills  from  tho  south- 
ward appears  to  meet  a  range  coming  from  tho  eastward,  forming  a  mountainous  headland  of 
over  3, 000  feet  high,  which  is  tho  western  limit  of  tho  northwest  trend  of  this  section  of  tne 
coast.     The  approximate  geographical  position  of  tho  cape  is: 

o      / 

Latitude 40  25  north. 

Longitude 124  22  west. 

About  3  miles  broad  off.  lies  a  reef,  just  under  water,  known  as  Blunt' s  rocks  or  reef,  upon 
which  tho  sea  generally  breaks.  This  reef  was  noticed  by  Vancouver  as  being  about  one 
league  offshore. — (Vol.  1,  page  198.)  Half  way  between  it  and  the  cape,  and  a  little  to  tho 
southward,  is  a  sunken  rock  which  has  been  discovered  within  the  last  two  or  three  years,  but 
not  yet  accurately  located.  It  is  called  Fauntleroy's  rock.  Steamers  have  passed  dangerously 
near  it,  and  in  1857  it  was  distinctly  seen  almost  under  the  wheel  of  the  steamship  Commodore. 
Vessels  can,  perhaps,  pass  over  it  in  smooth  weather,  but  with  a  heavy  sea  the  water  must 
break. 

To  tho  southward,  and  immediately  off  tho  pitch  of  the  cape,  lie  numerous  rocks  and  rocky 
islets,  the  latter  being  largo  and  high,  with  a  peculiar  pyramidal  or  sugar  loaf  appearance. 
None  of  them  seem  to  be  more  than  half  a  mile  from  the  shore,  which  is  almost  perpendicular 
and  destitute  of  a  beach. 

The  face  of  tho  capo  is  very  steep,  rocky,  and  worn.  Above  this  tho  general  appearance  is 
rolling,  and  the  surface  covered  with  timber.  The  pyramidid  islets  off  it  are  very  readily 
distinguished  in  approaching  from  the  north  or  south. 

From  Cape  Mendocino  the  following  are  the  bearings  and  distances  to  headlands  to  the 
northward : 

Trinidad  Head,  north,  39  miles. 


68  REPORT   OF   THE   SUPERINTENDENT   OF 

Redding' 8  rock,  N.  |  W.,  56  miles. 

Crescent  City  light-house,  N.  by  W.,  79^  miles  • 

Cape  Blanco  or  Orford,  N.  by  W.  |  W.,  145  miles. 

The  extent  of  shore-line  from  Point  Boneta  to  this  cape  is  about  224  miles. 

It  is  generally  stated  that  Juan  Rodriguez  Cabrillo  named  Cape  Mendocino  in  honor  of  Don 
Antonio  de  Mendoza,  the  viceroy  of  Mexico;  but  the  highest  latitude  he  reached  was  Punta  de 
los  Reyes,  to  which  ho  in  reality  applied  that  name.  It  is  quite  probable  that  under  the  lee 
of  the  rocks  off  this  capo  Ferrolo,  the  pilot  and  successor  of  Cabrillo,  anchored  on  the  last  of 
February,  1543,  and  named  it  Cabo  de  Portunas,  (Cape  of  Perils,)  although  he  places  his 
position  in  latitude  43°.  The  next  day  he  may  have  been  off  Trinidad  Head/ and  experiencing 
heavy  northerly  weather,  his  observations  might  have  placed  him  in  latitude  44°,  but  with  his 
vessels,  adverse  currents,  and  a  dead  beat  to  windward,  he  could  not  have  made  a  degree  of 
latitude  in  a  day.  Here  he  turned  back,  passed  the  Golden  Gate  on  March  3,  and  reached 
the  island  of  Santa  Cruz  on  the  5th.  It  is  utterly  impossible  that  with  his  small  crazy  vessels 
he  could  make  800  miles  (the  distance  from  latitude  44°  to  Santa  Cruz)  in  four  days. 

FALSE   MENDOCINO,    OB   CAPE   FORTUNAS 

Lies  northward  of  Capo  Mendocino,  distant  5  or  6  miles,  and  is  another  bold  spur  of  moun- 
tainous headland,  similar  and  almost  as  high  as  that  cape.  Between  the  two  the  shore  recedes 
slightly,  is  depressed,  and  forms  a  beach  receiving  a  small  stream  called  Bear,  or  McDonald's 
creek,  coming  down  through  a  narrow  valley  or  gulch.  Off  this  cape  lie  severiil  rocky  islets 
presenting  the  same  peculiarities  as  those  off  Mendocino.  There  is  no  beach  at  the  base  of  the 
almost  perpendicular  sea-face. 

The  vicinity  of  these  headlands  certainly  deserves  a  detailed  hydrographic  and  topographical 
survey.  It  is  reported  that  soundings  have  been  obtained  well  to  the  westward  of  the  cape; 
should  such  prove  correct,  the  fact  will  be  of  importance  to  vessels,  especially  steamers,  bound 
north  or  south,  when  near  the  coast  and  enveloped  in  fog,  as  it  would  enable  them  to  judge  of 
their  position  and  change  their  course. 

We  have  ventured  to  call  this  headland  Cape  Fortunas,  to  avoid  the  repetition  of  Mendocino, 
and  to  commemorate  Ferrelo'  s  discoveries. 

After  passing  it  the  shore  changes  to  a  straight,  low,  sandy  beach,  with  valleys  running 
some  distance  inland. 

Eel  River  is  a  small  stream  with  a  bar  at  its  mouth,  and  distant  14  miles  from  Cape  Men- 
docino. It  is  very  contracted  and  crooked,  receiving  the  waters  of  a  great  many  sloughs  near 
its  mouth,  and  draining  a  most  fertile  valley,  which  is  rapidly  filling  up  with  settlers. 

The  first  and  only  vessel  that  entered  it  was  a  schooner  in  the  spring  of  1850,  when  searching 
for  Humboldt  Bay.  She  thumped  over  the  bar,  which  is  said  to  have  9  feet  of  water  upon  it 
at  high  tide.     The  Indian  name  for  the  river  is  Wee-ot. 

HUMBOLDT    BAY. 

The  entrance  to  this  bay  lies  21  miles  from  the  sugar  loaf  islet  off  Cape  Mendocino,  and  the 
bar  N.  by  E.  22^  miles  from  Blunt' s  rocks.  The  bay  is  situated  immediately  behind  the  low 
Band  beach  and  dunes,  and  extends  9  miles  north  and  4  miles  south  of  the  entrance;  being 
contracted  to  less  than  half  a  mile  in  width  abreast  of  the  north  end  of  the  «outh  spit.  It 
then  expands  to  nearly  three  miles,  and  runs  a  mile  and  a  half  to  the  eastward  of  Table  Bluff. 


THE   DNITED   STATES   COAST   SURVEY.  69 

The  8inp:Io  channel  runninp  into  thia  portion  divides  into  two  crooked  ones,  which  contain  from 
one  to  three  fathoms  of  water,  all  the  roat  show  a  bare  mud  flat  at  low  tidea.  Abreast  of  the 
entrance  it  is  nearly  a  mile  in  width;  with  extensive  sands  bare  at  low  tides,  lying  midway 
between  the  opposite  shores,  and  running  nearly  parallel  with  them.  To  the  northward  its 
average  width  is  half  a  mile  fo»a  distance  of  3.J  miles.  It  then  expands  into  a  large  shallow 
sheet  of  water,  having  two  or  throe  crooked  channels  through  it,  but  the  greater  part  being 
bare  at  low  tides,  showing  oxtonsivo  mad  flats,  bordered  by  a  grassy  flat  nearly  a  mile  in  width. 
In  the  channel  way  close  to  the  north  spit,  not  leaa  than  3  fiMSoms  may  bo  carried,  increasing 
for  throe  miles  to  CJ  fathoms.  One  mile  north  of  the  entrance,  and  on  the  eastern  side,  enters 
a  email  stream  called  Elk  river.  Two  miles  north  of  the  entrance,  and  on  the  east  side,  is 
situated  the  town  of  Bucksport,  off  which  a  depth  of  3J  fathoms  is  found  within  160  yards  of 
the  shore.  Vessels  are  got  alongside  the  saw-mill  wharf  here  at  high  tide  to  load,  at  low  tidea 
they  rest  upon  the  muddy  bottom.  The  military  station  of  Fort  Humboldt  is  on  a  reservation 
on  the  bluff  about  100  feet  high,  and  immediately  behind  the  town.  On  the  same  side,  and  4 
miles  north  of  the  entrance,  is  the  town  of  Eureka,  off  which  is  a  portion  of  the  channel,  having 
nearly  3  fathoms  in  it,  but  no  channel  reaching  it  having  more  than  IJ  fathom.  The  town 
was  laid  out  before  this  latter  fact  was  discovered.  Veaaels  lie  at  the  wharves,  resting  on  the 
mud  at  low  tide.  Abreast  of  Eureka  lie  several  low  marshy  islands  cut  up  by  sloughs  and 
ponds.  The  largest,  called  Indian  island,  is  about  a  mile  long  (NE.)  by  half  a  mile  in  width. 
It  is  marked  by  two  hillocks,  surmounted  by  clumps  of  trees,  near  which  were  (1854)  severiU 
wretched  Indian  huts.  The  smaller  islands  lie  between  this  and  the  eaatern  shore  and  parallel 
with  it.  Uniontcum  is  situated  on  the  northeast  shore  of  the  bay,  and  can  only  bo  reached  by 
boats  at  high  tide.  It  is  the  starting  point  for  the  Trinity  and  Klamath  mines.  From  it  an 
extensive  wharf  stretches  far  out  over  the  mud  flat,  which  vessels  can  reach  at  high  tides. 

The  southern  spit  from  the  entrance  to  Table  Bluff  does  not  average  one  quarter  of  a  mile 
in  width;  is  formed  of  low  sand  dunes  and  grassy  hillocks,  and  bordered  on  the  bay  side  by 
marsh.  At  the  lower  extremity  rises  Table  Bluff",  which  the  name  well  describes,  to  a  height 
of  about  200  feet;  its  western  point  nearly  reaching  the  sea  beach,  and  forming  a  good  land 
mark  for  making  the  bay.  Five  miles  east  of  it  the  hills  commence  rising.  Abreast  of  the 
north  end  of  the  south  spit  rises  Bed  Bluff,  presenting  to  the  entrance  a  perpendicular  face, 
composed  of  sand  and  gravel  colored  by  the  decomposition  of  iron  ore  near  its  surface,  which 
is  96  feet  above  high  water,  and  destitute  of  tree  or  brush.  The  bay  front  of  the  bluff  is  about 
one-third  of  a  mile  long,  gradually  decreasing  to  the  low,  flat  land  to  the  north,  and  also  falling 
away  to  the  south  and  east.  On  this  bluff  the  pilots  have  a  flag-stafif  to  range  with  known 
points  of  trees  beyond,  by  which  they  cross  the  bar  and  keep  the  run  of  its  changes.  At  the 
base  of  the  highest  part  of  this  bluff  we  discovered,  in  1854,  a  tooth  and  part  of  the  tirek  of  tho 
dephaa  primtgenius.  The  low  land  on  the  eastern  shore  above  Red  Bluff  averages  half  a  mile 
in  width,  and  runs  aa  far  as  Eureka,  gradually  changing  to  marsh,  and  bounded  by  plateaux 
and  hills  covered  with  wood.  The  north  spit  averages  half  a  mile  in  width,  and  its  southern 
extremity  is  composed  of  sand  dunes  and  grassy  hillocks  disposed  in  a  marked  manner  parallel 
with  the  direction  of  the  northwest  winds.  Two  miles  from  the  entrance  trees  cover  the 
hillocks  and  run  northward  one  mile,  when  a  space  of  a  mile  occurs  without  them.  After  that 
they  continue  along  tho  shore. 

71>e  entrance. — The  bar  of  Humboldt  bay  is  situated  about  a  mile  and  a  quarter  from  tho 
entrance,  or  two  miles  from  tin-  S\V.  and  highest  part  of  Red  Bluff.     It  undergoes  irregular 


70  REPORT  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

changes,  depending  much  upon  the  prevalence,  direction,  and  strength  of  the  wind.     Early  in 

1851  it  bore  NW.,  distant  two  miles  from  Red  Bluff  and  about  half  a  mile  from  the  beach  of 

the  north  spit.     Three  and  a  half  fathoms  were  found  upon  it,  with  a  width  of  250  yards 

between  the  three-fathom  curves,  retaining  nearly  the  same  width  and  running  on  a  southeast 

course  towards  the  bluff,  but  approaching  closer  to  the  north  than  to  the  south  spit.     When 

between  the  two,  the  depth  of  water  was  increased  to  11  fathoms,  suddenly  shoaling  to  four 

fathoms  inside.     Vessels  kept  the  north  spit  within  150  to  250  yards  on  the  port  hand  for  2  or 

3  miles  after  entering.     In  the  fall  of  1852  the  bar  was  reported  to  have  moved  to  the  northward 

about  its  entire  width,  and  the  ranges  for  going  in,  as  laid  down  by  the  survey  of  the  previous 

year,  were  entirely  useless.     In  the  spring  of  1854  it  was  more  than  its  previous  width  to  the 

southward  of  its  position  in  1851,  and  the  depth  of  water  had  decreased,  until  in  June  of  that 

year,  when  we  crossed,  it  was  over  half  a  mile  in  extent,  with  only  16  feet  water  at  high  tide. 

A  bare'spot  then  showed  at  the  lowest  tides  W,NW.  of  the  end  of  the  south  spit.     We  saw  in 

that  year  a  strange  brig  thump  over  the  north  sands,  while  on  the  course  prescribed  by  the 

sailing  directions  of  1851.     In  1857  less  than  13  feet  at  high  tide  could  be  found  upon  it,  and 

its  extent  was  very  much  increased.     Eventually  a  deep  and  narrow  channel  will  be  cut  through. 

About  1852  a  steam-tug  was  placed  upon  the  bay,  and  has  rendered  the  most  efficient  service 

in  determining  the  changes  of  the  bar.     When  vessels  are  seen  approaching  the  bar  a  flag  is 

hoisted  on  Red  Bluff,  and  the  tug  goes  oiit  to  take  them  in.     If  jt  is  breaking  so  heavily  on  the 

bar  that  she  cannot  get  through  it,  and  it  is  yet  practicable  for  the  vessel  to  run  in,  she  takes 

up  a  position  and  hoists  her  flag  as  a  signal  for  the  vessel  to  steer  for  her.     She  is  invaluable  in 

towing  out  the  deeply  laden  lumber  vessels,  as  the  summer  winds  blow  directly  in  the  channel. 

In  June,   1851,  upon  our  first  entering  this  bay,  we  found  a  brig,   deeply  laden  with  spars, 

waiting  for  an  opportunity  to  get  out.     She  had  made  several  attempts  to  beat  through  the  then 

narrow  channel,  but  always  failed,  and  had  in  this  manner  occupied  31  days.     We  have  laid 

14  days  off  the  entrance,  and  passed  in  when  the  water  was  breaking  on  the  bar.     A  preliminary 

chart  of  the  entrance  to  Humboldt  bay  was  issued  from  the  Coast  Survey  Office  in  1851. 

The  Humboldt  bay  light-Jiome  is  erected  on  the  north  spit,  three  quarters  of  a  mile  north  of 
the  entrance,  and  about  midway  between  the  bay  and  sea  shores.  It  consists  of  a  keeper's 
dwelling,  of  one  and  a  half  story,  with  a  tower  rising  21  feet  above  the  roof  from  the  centre; 
both  being  plastered  and  whitewashed,  and  surmounted  by  an  iron  lantern  painted  red.  The 
light  is  a  /iced  white  light  of  the  fourth  order  of  the  system  of  Fresnel,  and  illuminates  the  entire 
horizon.  It  is  elevated  53  feet  above  high  water  spring  tides,  and  should  be  seen  in  clear 
weather  from  a  height  of — 

10  feet  at  a  distance  of  12  miles. 

20  feet  at  a  distance  of  13^  miles. 

30  feet  at  a  distance  of  14|  miles. 
Its  geographical  position,  as  determined  by  the  Coast  Survey,  is: 

O  /        II 

Latitude 40  46  03.6  north. 

Longitude 124  12  21     west. 

h.    m.     s. 

Or,  in  time 8  16  49.4. 

Magnetic  variation,  17°  06'  east,  in  July,  1853,  increasing  about  1'.4  yearly. 

The  light  was  first  exhibited  December  20,  1856,  and  shows  from  sunset  to  sunrise. 

A  light  on  Red  Bluff,  which  is  nearly  100  feet  high,  -vtould  always  serve  as  a  leading  range, 


h 


THE   UNITED   STATES    COAST   SUKVKV.  71 

as  tho  flap-Btaff  and  ensign  placed  there  are  now  thus  U8ed  by  the  pilots.  The  light  would  bo 
distinguinhabie  readily  at  sen,  when  tho  present  one  might  bo  obscured  by  tho  mist  banging 
OTer  the  surf  on  tho  beacii.  During  the  day  tho  white  buildings  would  be  a  capital  mark 
against  tho  green  hills  and  trees  in  tho  back  ground.  This  view,  now  and  formerly  expressed, 
has  boon  repeatedly  and  earnestly  urged  upon  our  attention  by  many  capttiins,  merchants,  and 
tho  pilots  of  Humboldt  bay. 

Tfdfs. — Tho  corrected  establishment  or  mean  interval  between  the  time  of  tho  moon's  transit 
and  tho  time  of  high  water  is  XII*  II"  and  the  difToronco  between  tho  greatest  and  least  intervals 
is  \h.  llm.  Tho  mean  rise  and  fall  of  tides  is  4.4  foot;  of  spring  tides,  5.5  foot:  and  of  neap 
tides,  3.5  feet.     The  mean  duration  of  the  flood  is  6A.  19m. ;  and  of  the  ebb,  6A.  OOm. 

From  experiments  made  in  1854,  we  found  the  ebb  current  to  run  3  miles  per  hour,  with  a 
maximum  velocity  of  between  4  and  6  miles. 

The  primary  astronomical  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  was  on  tho  southwest  part  of  Red 
BlniT.  Its  geographical  position  is:  latitude  40°  44'  40".2  north;  longitude  124°  12'  west;  or, 
in  time,  SA*  16nj.  48«.     Magnetic  variation,  17°  04'  east,  in  April,  1854. 

A  secondary  astronomical  station  was  occupied  in  the  reconnaissance  of  1853  on  the  beach 
at  Bucksport  Its  geographical  position  is:  latitude  40°  46'  37".l  north;  longitude  124°  10'  44" 
west;  or,  in  time,  Sh.  16m.  42.9s.     Magnetic  variation,  17°  06',  in  July,  1853. 

We  have  already  mentioned  the  situations  of  three  of  the  towns  on  Humboldt  bay.  Hum- 
boldt, the  fourth  towm,  is  located  on  the  south  side  of  Bed  Bluff.  It  had  eight  or  ten  houses  in 
1854,  and  was  going  backward.  Bucksport  has  a  goodly  number  of  houses  and  one  saw-mill, 
formed  by  hauling  the  steamer  Commodore  Preble  on  the  beach,  and  using  her  engines  for 
motive  power.  Eureka  has  eight  saw-mills  and  a  grist-mill,  and  presents  a  thriving  appear- 
ance; one  of  the  saw-mills  is  formed  by  the  steamboat  Santa  Clara.  Uniontown  has  one  saw- 
mill. In  1854  we  obtained  a  statement  of  the  commerce  of  the  bay  for  a  period  of  eleven 
months,  ending  May  31  of  that  year;  from  which  it  appeared  that  143  vessels,  ranging  from 
71  to  540  tons,  with  an  aggregate  of  22,060  tons,  had  brought  to  tho  bay  3,089  tons  of  mer- 
chandise and  562  passengers,  and  taken  away  18,932,000  feet  of  lumber.  Since  that  time 
other  mills  have  been  added,  with  increased  power,  and  at  a  low  estimate  we  may  safely  say 
that  all  can  turn  out  an  avei%ge  of  120,000  feet  per  day!  Many  of  tho  vessels  trading  to  this 
bay  were  ill  adapted  to  contend  against  the  summer  winds.  Tho  average  time  of  the  above 
vessels  from  San  Francisco  was  a  trifle  under  12  days.  Some  boat  up  in  6  days;  others 
required  over  20;  all,  however,  are  in  very  light  ballast  trim.  With  vessels  adapted  to  the 
trade,  the  average  time  up  should  not  exceed  8  days,  and  the  passage  to  leeward  would 
average  about  4.  The  average  tonnage  had  regularly  increased,  and  there  had  been  a  decrease 
in  the  average  length  of  the  passage  to  the  windward. 

It  has  been  erroneously  asserted  that  this  bay  was  discovered  from  sea  in  April,  1850,  and 
by  land  in  1849;  but  the  following  account  from  a  recent  Russian  work,  (1848,)  with  an  accom- 
panying chart,  settles  that  question  : 

"About  8j  miles  from  tho  port  of  Trinidad  is  situated  the  entrance  to  tho  Bay  of  Indians, 
called  entrance  of  Bezanof.  By  the  colonial  documents  of  the  Russian-American  Company,  it 
appears  that  it  was  discovered  by  citizens  of  the  United  States.'  In  1806  there  was  in  it,  (on 
an  American  vessel,)  under  command  of  Vintep,  [Viu  top]  a  beaver  party  of  Aleutians,  under 
the  direction  of  Slabotchikoff,  which  was  met  by  tho  Indians  inimically.  This  bay  is  not  fully 
described,  but  it  is  known  that  it  is  very  large;  somewhat  resembles  the  bay  of  San  Francisco, 


7^  REPORT   OF   THE    SUPERINTENDENT   OF 

only  the  entrance  to  it  for  vessels  of  large  class  is  not  convenient,  and  with  strong  southwest 
winds  it  is  even  impossible  with  any  vessel.  The  depth  at  the  entrance  is  two  sajhen,  (14 
feet,)  and  then  it  breaks  on  the  bar." 

The  present  name  was  given  to  the  bay  in  1850. 

Mad  river  is  said  to  empty  into  the  sea  about  a  mile  north  of  Humboldt  bay.  It  averages 
about  100  yards  in  width,  with  a  bar  at  its  entrance  that  prevents  egress;  but  the  vast  amount 
of  timber  in  the  valley  must  eventually  find  a  passage  through  a  canal  to  the  northwest  point 
of  Humboldt  bay.  A  deep  slough  from  the  latter  is  said  to  approach  quite  close  to  Mad  river, 
thus  favoring  the  execution  of  such  a  project. 

TRINIDAD   HEAD   AND   BAY. 

Trinidad  Head  lies  N.  \  W.  17^  miles  from  the  bar  of  Humboldt  bay,  and  north  39  miles 
from  Cape  Mendocino.  The  low  sand  beach  off  Humboldt  continues  past  Mad  river  to  within 
a  couple  of  miles  of  Trinidad  bay,  when  it  changes  to  a  bluff,  guarded  by  innumerable  rocks. 
For  the  entire  distance  of  the  low  beach  a  depth  of  from  10  to  15  fathoms  may  be  found  one 
mile  from  the  shore. 

The  bay  or  r6adstead  of  Trinidad  is  very  contracted;  but  having  deep  water,  and  all 
dangers  visible,  forms  a  moderately  good  summer  anchorage.  The  "  Head "  forming  the 
western  shore  of  the  roadstead,  and  a  prominent  mark  when  seen  from  close  in,  is  about  375 
feet  high,  covered  with  a  low,  thick  undergrowth  of  scrub  bushes;  has  very  ste*ep  sides,  and 
8  fathoms  close  to  its  southern  base.  Off  the  western  face,  for  nearly  half  a  mile  out,  lie  several 
high  rocky  islets,  with  one  half  a  mile  south  of  it,  but  having  9  fathoms  close  to  it.  From  the 
south  face  eastward  to  the  3-fathom  curve  the  distance  is  one  mile,  and  the  depth  of  the  bight 
to  the  northward  of  this  line  is  about  half  a  mile,  with  half  a  dozen  rocks  lying  outside  the 
3-fathom  line,  but  well  above  water.  In  the  northern  part  of  the  bay  there  is  a  sand  beach 
extending  about  half  a  mile ;  thence  eastward  the  shore  is  very  rocky,  the  bluff  being  about 
300  feet  high,  and  covered  with  a  heavy  growth  of  timber.  The  town,  formerly  a  place  of 
some  promise,  fronts  on  the  northwest  part  of  the  roadstead,  and  the  boat  landing  is  on  the 
north  side  of  a  round  knoll  making  out  about  100  yards  from  ^e  low  neck  running  to  the 
' '  Head.' '     A  very  considerable  quantity  of  sea  weed  lies  off  here. 

A  hydrographic  sketch  of  the  bay  and  view  of  Trinidad  Head  accompanied  the  Coast  Survey 
Keport  for  1851. 

In  working  into  the  anchorage  beat  in  boldly  past  the  outermost  rock  until  the  rock  just  off 
the  eastern  side  of  the  Head  is  in  range  with  the  knoll  (having  a  few  trees  upon  it)  between  the 
town  and  the  Head,  with  the  south  face  of  the  Head  bearing  W.  by  N.,  and  anchor  in  seven 
fathoms,  hard  bottom,  within  one-third  of  a  mile  of  the  rock  and  Head,  having  the  neck  visible 
to  the  westward  of  the  knoll,  and  a  sugar  loaf  rock  beyond  the  neck  showing  over  it.  A  swell 
will  generally  be  found  setting  in..  In  winter  it  is  a  dangerous  anchorage,  and  if  a  vessel  is 
unluckily  caught,  her  chances  of  riding  out  a  southeaster  are  very  few.  Several  Spanish  vessels 
were  wrecked  here  when  it  was  visited  by  them,  and  a  number  of  vessels  have  been  lost  within 
the  last  eight  years.  , 


THE    UNITKD   STATES   COAST    SlIBVEV.  73 

The  Hecondarv  astronoinioal  station  of  the  CoaBt  Survey  was  on  the  neck,  near  the  town. 
Its  geographical  position  i» —  * 

O  I  II 

Latitude 41     03     20.0  north. 

Longitude 124     08     08      west. 

A.      m.       (. 
Or,  in  time 8     16     32.5. 

The  town  during  the  winter  is  nearly  deserted,  but  a  brisk  trade  is  carried  on  in  summer. 
Tlio  connection  with  San  Francisco  by  steamers  is  yet  uncertain.  The  land  in  this  vicinity  is 
very  rich,  and  well  adapted  to  agriculture.  The  red-wood  trees  grow  around  it,  and  attain  an 
enormous  size.  The  stump  of  one  whicb  we  measured  was  about  20  feet  in  diameter,  and  a 
dozen  trees  standing  in  the  vicinity  averaged  over  10  feet.  One  is  affirmed  to  be  standing  on 
the  bank  of  a  small  stream  al  the  southeast  part  of  the  bay  that  measures  over  90  feet  in 
circumference.  The  bark  of  these  trees  has  a  thickness  of  from  8  to  14  inches;  they  grow 
perfectly  straight,  retaining  their  thickness  to  a  great  height,  begin  to  branch  at  50  or  100  feet, 
and  frequently  attain  250  feet  in  height.  The  forests  of  this  timber,  when  free  from  under- 
growth present  an  imposing  sight. 

"Port  Trinidad  "  was  discovered  June  10,  1775,  by  Heceta  and  Bodega,  and  placed  in  latitude 
41*  07'  N.     Near  it  they  place  a  stream  which  they  call  the  Rio  de  los  Tortolas,  or  Pigeon  river. 

It  was  visited  in  May,  1793,  by  Vancouver,  who  says,  (vol.  II,  page  245:)  "In  an  excursion 
made  by  Mr.  Menzies  to  the  hill  composing  the  projecting  headland  that  forms  the  northwest 
side  of  the  bay,  he  found,  agreeably  with  Se5or  Maurelli's  description,  the  [wooden]  cross 
which  the  Spaniards  had  erected  on  their  taking  possession  of  the  port;  and  though  it  was  in 
a  certain  state  of  decay  it  admitted  of  his  copying  the  followiiig  inscription :  '  Carolus  III, 
Dei  G.  Uyspaniarum  Bex.'  " 

Vancouver  placed  it  in  latitude  41°  04'  N. — (Vol.  I,  page  200.) 

In  some  American  maps  antecedent  to  the  Coast  Survey  determinations  on  the  Pacific  the 
indentation  of  the  coaat  between  Mendocino  and  Trinidad  was  called  "Bay  of  Trinidad." 

The  shore  running  NW.  by  N.  from  Trinidad  Head  for  5  miles  is  remarkably  broken  and 
rocky,  which  induced  Vancouver  to  call  its  northern  extremity  Jiocky  Point.  He  placed  it  in 
41°  08'.     About  one  mile  oflf  it  lie  several  rocks  that  are  sometimes  known  as  the  "Turtles." 

In  January,  1603,  Vizcaino's  vessels  separated  during  heavy  weather,  and  the  smaller  sailed, 
under  Antonio  Flores,  the  pilot,  to  the  northward  in  search  of  Vizcaino;  and  when  ih  latitude 
41^,  with  a  gale  from  the  SW.,  he  ran  before  it  until  he  found  shelter  behind  a  great  rock, 
where  he  anchored.     "Was  this  under  Rocky  Point  ? 

From  Rocky  Point  the  shore  takes  a  gentle  sweep  eastward,  making  its  greatest  indentation 
at  the  north  end  of  the  once  famous  Gold  Bluff,  in  latitude  41"^  27'  N.,  and  longitude  124°  03' 
W.,  and  then  trendingVestward  to  Crescent  City.  Gold  Bluff  has  an  extent  of  10  miles,  and 
is  very  bold  and  high. 

Bedding's  Bock  lies  5  miles  broad  off  Gold  Bluff,  in  latitude  41°  21',  and  longitude  124°  10'. 
It  is  a  single  large  rocky  islet  about  200  feet  high,  and  reported  to  have  deep  water  all  around 
it,  with  no  outlying  dangers;  but  its  vicinity  has  not  been  surveyed.  Vancouver  places  it  in 
latitude  41°  25'  on  his  chart,  and  4  miles  off  shore;  but  in  the  narrative  states  the  distance  at 
half  a  league,  and  that  it  is  half  a  mile  in  circuit.  His  track  lies  inside  of  it. 
10 


ti  REPORT   OF   THE   SUPERINTENDENT    OF 


•  KLAMATH   BITER. 

The  mouth  of  this  river  is  in  latitude  41°  33'  N.,  longitude  124°  05'  W.  It  is  perhaps  200 
yards  wide;  having  a  long  sand  spit  on  the  south  side  running  northwest,  and  parallel  to  the 
high  hills  that  form  the  north  shore.  South  of  the  entrance  for  a  mile  and  a  half  are  outlying 
rocks,  and  at  the  north  side  of  the  entrance  lie  several  others.  It  is  reported  to  have  2^  fathoms 
upon  the  bar.  Upon  passing  it  in  1853,  within  less  than  a  mile,  the  sea  was  breaking  across  it, 
and  no  appearance  of  a  safe  channel  was  presented.  One  or  two  small  schooners  are  said  to 
have  entered  it;  but  we  have  been  assured  that  the  mouth  was  completely  closed  in  the  winter 
of  1851. 

McArthur  reports  in  1850:  "the  river  has  17  feet  on  the  bar  at  mean  low  water.  It  is  not 
difficult  of  entrance  with  a  good  breeze,  but  very  difficult  to  get  out  of,  the  current  running  so 
strong  that  sailing  vessels  must  come  out  stern  foremost  to  be  steered." 

Three  or  four  miles  northward  of  the  Klamath  is  a  small  sharp  indentation  at  the  mouth  of 
a  gulch,  off  which  lie  several  small  and  one  large  rock;  but  from  a  distance  of  a  mile  and  a  half 
we  were  unable  to  determine  whether  any  stream  opened  here.  It  has,  however,  received  the 
name  of  False  Klamath,  because  it  has  misled  small  coasters  seeking  for  the  Klamath,  although 
there  is  no  sand  point  on  either  side,  as  exists  at  the  latter.  The  coast  continues  bold  for  several 
miles,  when  the  hills  begin  to  recede  and  the  shores  present  many  pleasant  slopes,  unincumbered 
with  forests  and  now  under  cultivation.  The  shore  is  low  and  regularly  sweeps  to  the  west- 
ward for  a  couple  of  miles,  forming  the  roadstead,  which  will  be  next  described. 

CRESCENT   CITY   BAY. 

This,  the  most  dangerous  of  the  roadsteads  usually  resorted  to  on  the  coast,  has  acqtiired 
much  importance  on  account  of  the  town  (Crescent  City)  being  the  depot  for  the  supplies  of 
miners  working  the  gold  diggings  on  the  Klamath,  Trinity,  and  Salmon  rivers.  It  is  filled  with 
sunken  rocks  and  reefs,  and  has  a  goodly  number  showing  above  water.  No  vessel  should 
think  of  gaining  an  anchorage  here  without  a  pilot,  or  perfect  knowledge  of  the  hidden  dangers. 
No  sunken  rocks  are  now  known  to  exist  outside  of  the  line  of  visible  ones,  except  one  awash, 
SW.  J  W.  and  a  little  more  than  half  a  mile  distant  from  the  light-house.  A  depth  of  10 
fathoms  exists  all  around  it,  and  7  or  8  fathoms  outside  of  the  visible  rocks.  The  usual  an- 
chorage is  on  a  line  half-way  between  the  light-house,  and  the  north  side  of  the  large  islet 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  east  of  it,  in  3^  fathoms,  hard  bottom.  In  this  position  some  outlying 
rocks  will  be  within  300  yards  W.  NW  ;  the  three-fathom  curve  within  the  same  distance,  and 
the  beach  half  a  mile  off.  At  low  water  the  beach  reaches  out  fully  100  yards.  Landing  is 
difficult,  and  is  usually  effected  at  the  SW.  part  of  the  beach  near  the  rocks.  To  reach  the 
above  anchorage  run  for  the  small  rock,  bearing  SE.  by  E.  |  E.,  one  and  a  half  mile  from  the 
light-house;  pass  on  the  east  side  of  it,  and  then  about  300  yards  west  of  the  large  islet  half  a 
mile  W.  NW.  of  it;  when  abreast  of  this,  run  for  the  southwestern  part  of  the  town  until  the 
light  bears  about  west,  and  anchor  in  3^  fathoms.  To  enter  or  leave  it  at  night,  as  is  done  by 
the  mail  and  coasting  steamers,  requires  a  perfect  local  knowledge  of  the  dangers  and  pecu- 
liarities of  the  landmarks.  Coasting  steamers,  in  fine  weather,  usually  anchor  close  in  shore  to 
discharge  freight,  which  is  received  in  lighters. 


THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST    8UKVEY.  75 

In  summer  there  is  always  some  swell  here,  but  in  winter  it  rolls  in  fearfully,  and  vesscU 
must  choose  a  position  to  be  ready  to  run  to  sea  at  the  approach  of  a  southeaster. 

Communication  is  maintained  with  San  Francisco  and  other  porta  by  mail  and  coasting 
steamers,  which  generally  carry  as  many  passengers  and  as  much  freight  for  this  place  as  they 
carry  to  the  Columbia  rivfr. 

The  town  lies  NW.  from  the  anchorage,  immediately  on  the  low  shore;  old  drift  logs,  in 
some  instances,  forming  the  foundation  for  wooden  houses.  In  August,  1853,  there  were  about 
135  houses  of  all  descriptions.  Now  the  number  is  doubled;  the  lands  adjacent  are  being  cul- 
tivated; a  grist-mill  has  been  built  which  turns  out  75  barrels  of  flour  per  day,  and  a  good  trail 
leads  to  the  "diggings." 

The  SW.  point  of  the  bay  is  elevated  about  25  feet  and  continues  so  to  the  westward.  The 
light-house  is  erected  on  the  rocky  islet  about  300  yards  from  the  point,  and  connected  with  it 
at  low  tides  by  a  broken  mass  of  rocks,  over  which  a  single  foot-bridge  is  constructed. 

.A  hydrographic  sketch  of  Crescent  City  harbor  appeared  in  the  Coast  Survey  Report  for 
1854. 

CBESCENT   CITT   LIGHT-HOUSE. 

The  building  consists  of  a  keeper's  dwelling  of  stone,  the  natural  color  (grey,)  and  one  and 
a  half  stories  high,  with  a  low  tower  of  brick,  plastered  and  whitewashed,  rising  from  the  centre 
and  surmounted  by  an  iron  lantern,  painted  red.  It  is  situated  at  the  southwest  part  of  the 
roadstead  on  the  seaward  extremity  of  the  Island  point,  which  is  here  about  45  feet  above  high 
water. 

The  light  is  a  fixed  while  light  varied  by  fiashes,  of  the  4th  order  of  Fresnel;  illuminates  315° 
of  the  horizon,  and  was  first  exhibited  December  10,  1856.  It  shows  from  sunset  to  sunrise. 
It  is  80  feet  above  high  sea  level,  and  should  be  seen  in  a  favorable  state  of  the  atmosphere 
from  a  height  of  10  feet  at  a  distance  of  14  miles,  20  feet  at  a  distance  of  15J  miles,  30  feet  at 
a  distance  of  16^  miles. 

The  geographical  position  of  the  light  as  determined  by  the  Coast  Survey  is: 

o        /  ;; 

Latitude 41    44     34.2   north. 

Longitude 124    11     22   west. 

A.         m.         I. 

Or,  in  time 8       16     45 

Magnetic  variation  17°  52'  east,  July,  1851,  with  a  yearly  increase  of  1'.4. 
From  Cape  Mendocino  it  bears  N.  by  W.  79^  miles. 

The  secondary  astronomical  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  was  on  the  point  on  the  land  side  of 
the  light-house,  near  a  few  Indian  huts,  existing  in  1853. 
Its  geographical  position  is : 

O  I  H 

Latitude 41    44     44.0   north. 

Longitude 124    11       14  west^ 

A.         in.         f. 

Or,  in  time 8       16     44.9 


76  EEPORT   OF   THE   SUPERINTENDENT    OF 


POINT    SAINT    GEOBGE. 

This  point  lies  two  miles  W.  by  N.  from  Crescent  City  light.  The  point  is  from  50  to  100 
feet  high,  with  table  land  some  distance  back.  It  is  bounded  by  hundreds  of  rocks,  some  of 
which  rise  perpendicularly  200  feet  from  the  water.  Three  or  four  of  the  largest  present  a 
remarkably  white  appearance,  which  serves  to  distinguish  this  point.  The  extensive  reef  in 
its  vicinity  may  have  led  to  confusion  amongst  the  old  discoverers,  by  their  confounding  it  with 
Cape  Orford. 

The  point  appears  to  us  to  be  the  Cape  San  Sebastian  of  Vizcaino,  who,  after  the  separation 
of  his  vessels,  continued  his  explorations  northward,  and  on  January  20,  1603,  when  in  lati- 
tude 42°  N.,  reached  a  high  white  bluff,  which  he  named  in  honor  of  the  saint  of  that  day. 
On  the  day  preceding  Antonio  Flores,  his  pilot,  in  the  smaller  vessel^  supposed  himself  in  lati- 
tude 43°  N.,  where  the  land  formed  a  cape  or  point,  which  he  called  Cape  Blanco,  and  from  that 
point  the  land  ran  NW.  Near  the  point  he  discovered  a  large  and  rapid  river,  which  he 
endeavoured  to  enter,  but  could  not  from  the  force  of  the  current.  We  are  inclined  to  believe 
that  both  names  refer  to  the  same  cape,  and  that  the  river  was  the  Klamath,  14  miles  south- 
ward, or  the  Chekto,  15  miles  northward. 

Upon  Spanish  charts,  and  on  an  English  map  of  Russian  discoveries,  published  in  1761,  we 
find  a  cape  hereabout  laid  down,  under  the  appellation  Cabo  Blanco  de  San  Sebastian. 

The  present  name  was  given  to  the  cape  by  Vancouver  in  1792.  He  placed  it  in  latitude 
41°  46^'  N. 

DRAGON  EOCKS. 

This  name  is  applied  to  the  rocks  and  reef  extending  W.NW.  from  Point  St.  George  for  a 
distance  of  6  miles.  The  locality  has  never  been  surveyed  in  detail,  but  a  wide"  passage  exists 
inside  of  the  reef,  and  is  invariably  used  by  the  mail  and  coasting  steamers,  when  entering  or 
leaving  Crescent  City  bay.  There  are  10  or  12  outlying  rocks,  and  many  sunken  ones,  with 
the  passage  running  between  them  and  those  close  to  shore.  This  passage  is  about  a  mile  in 
width,  has  10  fathoms  in  it,  and  the  general  course  through  is  nearly  NW.  and  SE.,  but  not 
straight.  Among  the  multitude  of  rocks  on  the  land  side  of  the  passage  are  three  very  large 
and  prominent  ones  about  200  feet  high.  It  has  been  already  stated  that  several  of  the  largest 
rocky  islets  have  a  well  marked  white  appearance,  occasioned  in  part  by  the  deposits  of  sea 
birds. 

This  name  was  first  given  by  Vancouver  in  1792.  The  general  name  now  used  is  Crescent 
City  reef. 

For  January,  1859,  the  line  of  equal  magnetic  variation  of  18°  east  crosses  the  coast  line  north 
of  Point  St.  George,  in  41°  50';  and  in  latitude  41°  40'  crosses  the  125°  of  longitude.  This  line 
moves  southward  about  a  mile  and  a  half  annually. 

«  ST.  George's  bay. 

From  Point  St.  George  the  coast  runs  straight  for  12  miles  N.  ^  W. ;  thence  W.NW.  for  9 
miles,  forming  a  deep  indentation,  called  by  Vancouver  St.  George' s  Bay.  On  the  Coast  Survey 
reconnaissance  of  it  in  1850  it  is  named  Pelican  bay.  For  8  miles  from  Point  St.  George  the 
shore  is  low  for  some  distance  back,  and  fronted  by  a  sand  beach  to  the  mouth  of  a  small  stream 


THE   DOTTED   STATES   COAST    8UHVEY.  77 

called  Smith's  rtver.     The  entrance  to  this  river  we  looked  for  in  vain  from  the  deck  of  the 

steamer,  ulthough  scarcely  two  miles  oft'  shore,  but  wore  able  to  form  a  good  estimate  as  to  where 

it  should  open  by  the  peculiarities  of  the  northern  bank,  which  was  a  low  perpendicular  bluff. 

Its  approximate  geographical  position  is : 

o       / 

Latitude 41     54  north.  • 

Longitude 124     11   west. 

The  "Smith's  river"  of  recent  maps  and  doacriptions  is  a  myth.  North  of  this  small  stream 
the  coast  acquires  an  elevation  of  about  one  Or  two  hundred  feet  for  a  short  distance  inland, 
and  is  bounded  by  high  mountains. 

COAST  OF  OREGON. 

About  three  miles  by  the  shore  to  the  northward  from  the  deepest  part  of  St.  George's 
bay,  the  boundary  line  of  California  and  Oregon,  of  42°  N.  latitude,  strikes  the  coast  near  a 
noticeable  high  pyramidal  mound,  rising  abruptly  from  the  plateau,  which  is  destitute  of  timber. 

CHEKTO   BIVEB. 

Five  miles  from  the  deepest  part  of  St.  George's  bay,  and  in  latitude  42°  01'  N.,  longitude 
124°  15'  W.,  (both  approximate,)  empties  a  stream  which  is  from  50  to  60  yards  wide 
at  its  mouth,  with  banks  about  100  feet  high,  and  bounded  half  a  mile  inshore  by  very  high 
hills.  It  appears  deep  and  sluggish,  and  in  August,  1853,  was  completely  closed  at  the 
mouth  by  a  heavy  gravel  beach.  The  anchorage  off  it  is  open  and  exposed  from  west  to  south, 
with  several  reefs  in  and  around  it.  No  survey  or  reconnaissance  has  been  made.  Wo  found 
Indian  huts  in  great  numbers  upon  both  banks,  but  most  of  the  Indians  were  engaged  higher 
up  the  stream  in  taking  salmon. 

On  the  Coast  Survey  charts  of  1853  this  stream  waa  marked  Illinois  river. 

From  Point  St.  George  to  an  arched  rock  about  40  feet  high,  in  latitude  42°  11',  the  course  is 
NW.  by  N.  27  miles.  The  coast  between  the  Chekto  and  the  point  within  a  mile  of  the  arch 
is  high,  bold,  compact,  and  bordered  by  vast  numbers  of  rocks,  with  very  deep  water  close 
inshore.  From  this  the  shore  runs  nearly  NW.  by  N.  ^  N.  for  40  miles  to  Cape  Orford,  making 
a  long  gentle  curve  of  4  miles  to  the  eastward,  and  being  in  general  high,  abrupt,  and  rocky. 

bogue's  riveb. 

Within  the  long  stretch  just  referred  to  is  found  the  entrance.of  Rogue's  river,  in  latitude 
42°  25'  N.  and  longitude  124°  22'  W.,  both  approximate,  having  a  long,  low,  sandy  point  on 
the  south  side,  and  a  high,  steep  hill,  with  two  large  rocks  off  its  base  at  the  north  side.  It 
comes  from  the  interior  between  high  mountains,  and  it  is  next  to  impossible  to  travel  along  its 
course.  Just  within  the  entrance  and  on  the  north  side  were  large  Indian  villages  in  1853. 
When  passing  it  in  moderate  nofthwest  weather  the  sea  wa«  breaking  heavily  across  the  bar, 
and  this  is  reported  to  be  generally  the  case.  It  has  not  been  examined  or  surveyed,  and  the 
depth  of  wat«ron  the  bar  is  variously  reported  from  10  to  18  feet;  the  former,  doubtless,  nearer 
the  truth.  McArthur  reports  ten  feet  on  the  bar,  but  that  the  channel  is  too  narrow  for 
soiling  vessels  to  turn  in.  In  the  spring  of  1850  the  New  York  pilot  boat  W.  G.  Hagstaff 
entered  the  river,  and  we  believe  was  attacked  by  the  Indians,  deserted,  plundered,  and  burnt. 
The  next  vessel  that  entered  was  the  schooner  Sam.  Roberts,  in  July  of  the  same  year,  which 
got  out  safely.     We  know  of  no  other  vessels  ever  having  made  the  attempt. 


78  REPORT   OF   THE    SUPERINTENDENT    OP 

Near  the  entrance  commences  the  detached  deposits  of  auriferous  sand  and  gravel,  which  are 
found  northward  along  the  coast  to  the  Coquille  river. 

The  name  of  the  river  was  suggested  by  the  dishonest  propensities  of  the  natives  in  its 
vicinity.  On  the  maps  it  is  called  Toutounis,  and  the  Too-too-tut-na  or  Klamet.  These  names, 
we  judge,  have  arisen  from  misapprehension,  because  the  Indians  hereabouts  when  asked  a 
qflestion  which  they  do  not  understand,  answered  to6-ta,  too-ta,'  to6-ta,  signifying  negation, 
and  rendered  more  emphatic  by  repetition.  Or  the  name  may  be  derived  from  the  Too-too-tan 
village,  some  distance  up  the  river.  That  existing  (1853)  on  the  north  head  of  the  mouth  of 
the  river  is  Tar-shoots.  Several  campaigns  have  been  made  against  the  Rogue  River  Indians, 
and  they  have  been  found  a  warlike  and  troublesome  race;  but  the  manner  in  which  they  were 
treated  by  some  of  the  early  settlers  was  well  calculated  to  rouse  them  to  a  war  of  retaliation. 

rogue's  biver  beef. 

The  rocky  islets  composing  this  reef  are  not  so  large  as  the  Dragon  rocks,  and  run  more 
nearly  parallel  with  the  coast  line.  The  southern  group  of  rocks  lies  W.  ^  N.,  about  four 
miles  from  the  north  head  of  the  entrance  to  Rogue's  river,  and  stretches  northward  three 
miles,  where  a  gap  occurs  between  them,  and  another  cluster  lying  a  mile  and  a  half  off  shore. 
Off  this  inner  group  lie  several  dangerous  sunken  rocks,  which  must  be  sharply  watched  from 
aloft  when  the  sea  is  not  heavy  enough  to  break  upon  them.  As  seen  from  the  southward,  the 
inside  rock  of  the  outer  group  shows  a  perpendicular  face  eastward,  and  sloping  back  to  the 
west.  The  channel  through  this  reef  is  perhaps  a  mile  wide,  but  more  dangerous  than  any 
other  on  the  coast.  No  hydrographic  survey  has  been  made  of  it,  and  it  is  never  used  by  the 
coasting  steamers. 

Abreast  of  the  northern  part  of  this  reef  is  a  five-mile  stretch  of  low  sand  beach,  backed  by 
high,  rugged,  wooded  hills,  when  the  shore  changes  to  an  abrupt  and  precipitous  face  to  Port 
Orford.  Many  rocks  closely  border  the  shore,  and  five  miles  south  of  Port  Orford  &  high 
rocky  islet  lies  nearly  a  mile  off  the  base  of  a  hill  about  1,000  feet  high. 

PORT  ORFORD. 

This  is  by  far  the  best  summer  roadstead  on  the  coast  between  Los  Reyes  and  the  Strait  of 
Juan  de  Fuca.  From  the  extremity  of  the  SW.  point  eastward  to  the  main  shore  the  distance 
is  two  miles,  and  from  this  line  to  the  greatest  bend  of  the  shore  northward  the  distance  is  one 
mile.  The  soundings  within  this  space  range  from  16  fathoms  close  to  Tichenor's  Rock,  forming 
the  SW.  point  of  the  bay,  to  3  fathoms  within  one-quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  beach  on  the  north- 
east side;  with  5  fathoms  at  the  base  of  the  rocky  points  on  the  northwest  side  towards 
Tichenor's  Rock,  one  mile  off  the  shores  of  the  bay,  the  average  depth  is  about  14  fathoms, 
regularly  decreasing  inshore. 

The  point  forming  the  western  part  of  the  bay  presents  a  very  rugged,  precipitous  outline, 
and  attains  an  elevation  of  350  feet.  Its  surface  is  covered  with  excellent  soil  and  with  a  sparse 
growth  of  fir.  From  this  point  the  shore  becomes  depressed  to  about  60  feet  at  the  northern 
or  middle  part  of  the  shore  of  the  bay  where  the  town  is  located.  The  hills  behind  are 
covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  fir  and  cedar. 

The  anchorage  is  usually  made  with  the  eastern  end  of  the  town  bearing  north,  being  just 
open  to  the  east  of  a  high  rock  on  the  beach,  in  6  fathoms  water,  hard  bottom;  having  a  sharp, 
high  point  bearing  NW.  by  W.  one-quarter  of  a  mile  distant,  the  beach  in  front  of  the  town 


THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST    SURVEY.  79 

distant  a  quarter  of  a  milo;  and  throe  rocks  just  in  tho  throe-fathom  line  E.  by  N.,  dintant  half 
a  mile.  Steamers  anchor  a  little  to  the  eastward  of  this  position,  and  closer  to  the  town,  in  4 
fathoms.  Coasters  from  the  south  in  summer  beat  up  close  inshore,  stretching  inside  of  the 
outlyinj?  islets  to  avoid  the  heavy  swell  outside.  Coming  from  the  northward  they  keep  just 
outside  of  a  high  rook  one-third  of  a  mile  oft"  tho  western  head,  and  round  Tichenor's  Rock 
within  half  a  uiilc.  In  winter  anchor  far  enough  out  to  be  ready  to  put  to  sea  when  a  south- 
easter comes  up.  During  a  protracted  gale  in  December,  1851,  a  terrible  sea  rolled  in  that  no 
vessel  could  have  ridden  out.  The  old  steamer  Sea  Gull  was  driven  northward,  and  lost  two 
wi-eks  in  regaining  her  position,  and  tho  mail  steamer  Columbia  hardly  held  her  own  for  many 
hours  off  the  Orford  reef. 

The  usual  landing  is  between  the  rock  called  Battle  Rock,  north  of  the  anchorage,  and  the 
point  of  rock  close  on  its  west  side.  A  road  is  cut  from  here  up  to  the  town,  which  consists  of 
but  a  few  houses.  Sometimes  a  landing  is  made  on  the  rocky  beach  a  quarter  of  a  mile  west- 
ward of  Battle  Rock,  in  the  bight  where  a  sloping  grassy  bluff  comes  to  the  water;  but  this, 
landing  is  over  a  rocky  bottom.  A  road  is  cut  up  the  slope  to  the  site  of  the  military  post  of 
Port  Orford,  which  is  now  abandoned. 

From  "Battle  Rock"  the  shore  eastward  is  skirted  by  sand  beach  for  IJ  mile  to  a  rough, 
rocky  point  called  Coal  Point.  About  midway  in  this  distance  empties  a  small  creek,  whose 
banks  are  composed  of  a  deposit  of  auriferous  sand  and  gravel,  the  same  as  found  in  front  of 
the  town  abreast  of  Battle  Rock,  and  which  has  yielded  as  high  as  $30  to  $40  per  diem  to  each 
miner. 

Several  attempts  have  been  made  to  open  a  road  from  this  place  to  tho  mines  about  60  or  70 
miles  eastward,  but  thus  far  witliout  success.  Several  parties  have  gone  through,  but  could 
find  no  direct  available  route  for  pack  animals.  Upon  the  opening  of  *8uch  a  road  it  would 
become  a  large  depot  of  supply  for  the  interior.  In  the  neighborhood  of  Port  Orford  are  found 
immense  quantities  of  the  largest  and  finest  white  cedar  on  the  coast,  and  for  some  years  a 
saw-mill  has  been  in  operation,  affording  a  small  supply  for  tho  San  Francisco  market  of  this 
lumber,  unapproachable  in  quality  by  any  on  the  Atlantic  coast. 

The  primary  astronomical  station  of  the  Coast  Survey,  established  here  in  1851,  is  on  the 
top  of  the  ridge  just  west  of  the  town,  at  a  height  of  262  feet  above  the  sea,  and  within  a  few 
yards  of  the  western  edge  of  the  bluff.     Its  geographical  position  is : 

o        '  '/ 

Latitude 42  44  21.7  north. 

Longitude 124  28  47  west. 

h.    m.       I. 

Or,  in  time 8  17  55.2 

Magnetic  variation  18°  29'  east,  in  November,  1851,  with  a  yearly  increase  of  about  1'.4. 
From  this  station  Tichenor's  Rock  bears  S.  by  W.,  three  quarters  of  a  mile  distant. 
The  secondary  astronomical  station  (1853)  is  in  front  of  the  town,  north  of  Battle  Rock,  and 
within  50  yards  of  the  edge  of  the  bluff.     Its  geographical  position  is; 

o        '         tt 

Latitude 42  44  28.2  north. 

Longitude 124  28  13  west. 

h.   m.      J. 

Or,  in  time 8  17  52.8 

Tides. — The  correct  establishment  or  mean  interval  between  the  time  of  the  moon's  transit 


80  EEPORT  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

and  the  time  of  high  water  is  Xlh.  XXVIw.  The  mean  rise  and  fall  of  tides  is  5.1  feet;  of 
spring  tides  6.8  feet,  and  of  neap  tides  3.7  feet.  The  mean  duration  of  the  flood  is  6/i.  19m., 
of  the  ebb,  6/i.  1m.,  and  of  the  stand  0/;.  39m.  The  average  difference  betM'een  the  corrected 
establishment  of  the  a.  m.  and  p.  m.  tides  of  the  same  day  is  lA.  22m.  for  high  water  and 
Oh.  iOm.  for  low  water.  The  differences  when  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest  are  2h.  12m. 
and  Ih.  28m.,  respectively.  The  average  difference  in  height  of  those  two  tides  is  1.4  foot  for 
the  high  waters,  and  2.6  feet  for  the  low  waters.  "When  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest 
those  differences  are  2.3  feet  and  3. 9  feet,  respectively.  The  average  difference  of  the  highest 
high  and  lowest  low  waters  of  the  same  day  is  7.1  feet,  and  when  the  moon's  declination  is 
greatest  8.2  feet.  The  highest  high  water  in  the  twenty-four  hours  occurs  about  lOh.  45m. 
after  the  moon's  upper  transit,  (southing,)  when  the  moon's  declination  is  north,  and  about 
IJi.  14m.  before  when  south.  The  lowest  of  the  low  waters  occurs  about  7  hours  after  the 
highest  high  water. 

This  bay  was  called  Ewing  Harbor  in  1850  by  McArthur,  but  is  now  known  by  no  other 
name  than  Port  Orford,  from  its  proximity  to  Cape  Orford.  A  sketch  of  it  was  published  by 
the  Coast  Survey  Oihce  in  1854. 

From  the  western  extremity  of  Port  Orford,  Cape  Orford  or  Blanco  bears  NW.  ^  N.,  distant 
6  uailes,  the  shore  line  between  them  curving  eastward  about  a  mile.  Immediately  north  of 
iPort  Orford  it  is  composed  of  a  very  broad,  loose  sand  beach,  backed  by  a  long  uniform  sand 
ridge  of  100  feet  height,  covered  with  grass,  fern,  sallal  bushes,  and  a  few  firs;  while  behind 
this  the  ground  falls  and  forms  lagoons  and  marshes.  This  ridge  extends  nearly  to  the  mouth 
of  a  stream  called  Hlk  river,  3^  miles  from  Tichenor's  Rock.  This  narrow  stream,  fordable  at  its 
mouth  at  low  tides,  comes  for  miles  through  broad  marshes  covered  with  fir  and  white  cedar, 
and  an  almost  impenetrable  undergrowth.  The  south  side  at  the  mouth  is  low,  sandy,  and  flat; 
the  north  side,  a  slope  rising  from  the  marsh  inshore  and  terminating  on  the  beach  in  a  perpen- 
dicular bluff,  averaging  100  feet  high,  covered  with  timber  to  its  very  edge  for  a  couple  of 
miles,  when  the  timber  retreats  some  distance  inland.  The  face  of  this  bluff  exhibits  vast 
numbers  of  fossil  shells  in  the  sandstone.  At  its  base  a  sand  beach  exists  which  may  be 
travelled  at  low  water. 

CAPE  GEFOKD,  OR  BLANCO. 

In  making  this  cape  from  the  northward  or  southward  it  presents  a  great  similarity  to  Point 
Conception;  appearing  first  as  an  island,  because  the  neck  connecting  it  with  the  main  is 
comparatively  low,  flat,  and  destitute  of  trees,  with  which  the  cape  is  heavily  covered  to  the 
edge  of  the  cliff.  It  is,  perhaps,  over  200  feet  high,  but  the  trees  upon  it  make  it  appear  at 
least  100  feet  more.  The  sides  are  very  steep,  and  worn  away  by  the  action  of  the  sea,  showing 
a  dull  whitish  appearance  usually,  but  bright  when  the  sun  is  shining  upon  them.  At  the  base 
are  many  black  rocks  and  ledges  stretching  out  to  form  the  inner  part  of  Orford  reef.  In  the 
bend,  southeast  of  the  cape,  rises  a  large,  high,  single  rock,  about  100  yards  from  the  beach. 

The  approximate  geographical  position  of  the  cape  is: 

o  / 

Latitude 42  50  north. 

Longitude 124  30  west. 

Being  thus  the  most  western  part  of  the  main  land  until  we  reach  latitude  47°  50'. 

From  it  Cape  Mendocino  bears  S.  by  E.  |  E.,  distant  145  miles;  Cape  Disappointment  light, 
at  the  north  head  of  the  entrance  to  the  Columbia,  N.  by  W.  J  W.,  distant  207  miles;  and 


THE   UNITED    STATES   COAST   SURVEY.  81 

Tatoosh  islHnd  light,  off  Cape  Flattery,  N.NW.,  332  milcB.  From  the  lino  joining  Bitinco  and 
Gape  Disappointment  the  const  does  not,  in  any  place,  leave  it  more  than  12  miles. 

A  4igbt  of  the  first  order  is  required  upon  this  cape,  or  upon  one  of  thQ  rocky  islets  of  the' 
outlying  reef. 

Upon  old  Spanish  maps  a  capo  near  this  latitude  has  been  called  Blanco,  from  the  assertion 
that  4°tonio  Flores  discovered  and  so  named  it  in  1603.  He  says  that  from  this  cape  the  ceast 
trends  northwest,  and  near  it  he  found  a  large  river  which  he  tried  to  enter,  but  could  not  on 
account  of  the  strong  current  running  out. 

At  that  time  the  magnetic  declination  must  have  been  about  zero,  and  perhaps  several 
degrees  west.  Assuming  it  as  zero,  the  coast  thence  northward  for  nearly  100  miles  trended 
N.  by  E.  J  E.  In  a  translation  of  Russian  voyages  to  the  northwest  coast,  published  in  1761, 
we  find  a  cape  laid  down  in  latitude  424°  called  C.  Blanco  de  San  Sebastian,  thus  combining 
Vizcaino's  discovery  and  his  pilot's. — (See  remarks  upon  Point  St.  George.) 

The  name  Orford  was  given  by  Vancouver,  in  1792,  and  placed  by  him  in  latitude  42°  52'. 
On  the  western  coast  this  name  is  now  almost  invariably  used.  • 

ORFORD   REEF. 

About  4  miles  off  the  coast,  between  Port  and  Cape  Orford,  lies  a  group  of  rocky  islets  and 
sunken  rocks.  There  are  seven  large,  high  ones  within  an  area  of  one  square  mile,  .with  small 
ones  that  are  just  awash,  and  others  upon  which  the  sea  only  breaks  in  very  heavy  weather.  . 

The  southeastern  rock  is  called  the  "Fin  rock,"  and  has  a  perpendicular  face  to  the  south- 
west, with  a  sloping  surface  to  the  northeast.  Near  if  are  several  low,  black  rocks.  The  Fin 
rock  lies  W.  |  N.,  distant  4  J  miles  from  the  western  point  of  Port  Orford,  but  the  general  direction 
of  the  other  six  is  N.NW.  from  Fin  rock.  West  from  Port  Orford,  and  distant  4 J  miles,  is  a 
small,  black  rock,  and  near  it  a  smaller  one,  upon  which  the  sea  breaks  only  occasionally.  W. 
by  N.  J  N.,  distant  4|  miles  from  Port  Orford,  lies  the  largest  of  the  seven  islets,  rising  up  with 
high  and  nearly  perpendicular  sides.  On  the  same  course,  and  a  mile  and  a  quarter  further 
out,  is  a  small  rock,  and  half  way  between  them  a  rock  awash.  This  is  the  northern  limit  of 
the  group. 

Stretching  S.SW.  for  a  mile  and  a  third  from  Cape  Orford  are  numerous  rocky  islets  and 
sunken  rocks,  with  large  fields  of  kelp;  but  ceasing  at  that  distance,  a  passage  is  left  one  and  a 
half  mile  wide  between  them  and  the  northern  islets  of  the  outer  group.  The  course  through 
the  middle  of  the  passage,  clearing  the  rock  called  Klooqueh,  off  the  western  point  of  Port 
Orford,  is  N W.  by  W. ,  with  ten  fathoms  rocky  bottom  on  the  shoalest  part  of  that  line. 

This  passage  is  in  constant  use  by  mail  and  coasting  steamers,  but  the  hydrography  of  the  ' 
reef  has  not  yet  been  executed,  and  only  a  preliminary  examination  of  the  position  of  the  outer 
rocks.     Although  the  general  trend  of  the  southern  group  is  N.NW.,  it  is  very  probable  that 
they  are  a  continuation  of  the  reef  making  out  from  the  cape. 

One  mile  north  of  Cape  Orford  empties  a  small  stream  having  a  great  number  of  rocks  off  its 
mouth.  In  1851  it  was  usually  called  Sikhs  river,  the  "jargon  "  name  for  friend.  On  some 
maps  wo  find  a  stream  near  this  locality  called  the  Sequalchin  river.  The  village  upon  the 
Sikhs  is  called  Te-ch6h-quut. 

From  Point  Boneta  to  Cape  Orford  the  e'xtent  of  shore  lino  is  388  miles;  Boneta  to  Mendocino 
being  223  miles. 

Oeneral/ealures. — From  Cape  Mendocino  the  hills  upon  the  seaboard  range  about  3,000  feet 
11 


82  REPORT  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

high,  running  parallel  with  the  coast  at  a  distance  of  from  3  to  5  miles;  receding  somewhat  at 
the  Eel  river  valley  and  Point  St.  George ;  and  at  other  points  coming  abruptly  to  the  ocean. 
The  whole  face  of  the  country  is  covered  with  dense  forests,  and  offers  almost  insurmountable 
obstacles  to  the  opening  of  roads  intended  to  strike  the  trail  leading  along  the  valleys  of  the 
Sacramento  and  Wallamut. 

Northward  of  Cape  Orford  the  appearance  and  nature  of  the  coast  assumes  a  marked 
change.  Long  reaches  of  low  white  sand  beach  occur,  and  sand  dunes,  broken  by  bold  rocky 
headlands,  and  backed  by  high  irregular  ridges  of  mountains.  On  the  sea-face  and  southern 
sides  of  many  of  these  prominent  points  no  timber  grows,  and  they  present  a  bright  lively 
green  of  fern,  grass,  and  bushes.  The  general  altitude  of  the  mountains  appears  the  same  as 
to  the  southward. 

COQUILLE   RIVER. 

From  Cape  Orford  to  the  mouth  of  the  Coquille,  in  latitude  43°  7',  the  coast  rune  exactly 
nortli,  with  a  slight  curve  of  a  mile  and  a  half  eastward,  and  a  short  distance  north  of  Orford 
consists  of  a  low  sand  beach,  immediately  behind  which  are  long  shallow  lagoons  receiving  the 
water  from  the  mountains,  but  having  no  visible  outlet  to  the  sea.  Along  this  shore  the 
soundings  range  from  7  to  15  fathoms  at  a  distance  of  a  mile. 

The  south  point  of  the  entrance  to  this  river  is  a  high  bluff  headland,  whilst  the  north  point 
is  a  long,  low,  narrow  spit  of  sand,  overlapping,  as  it  were,  the  southern  head,  so  that  the 
channel  runs  parallel  with  and  close  under  it,  (1851.)  A  short  distance  off  it  lie  several  rocks, 
but  not  of  sufficient  size  to  lessen  the  western  swell  which  breaks  continually  across  the  bar. 
The  widest  part  of  the  mouth  is  less  than  100  yards,  after  which  the  river  spreads  out  into  a 
largfe  sheet  of  shallow  water,  about  two  miles  long  by  three-quarters  of  a  mile  broad,  and 
bounded  by  low  ground.  Into  the  northeast  part  of  this  lagoon  enters  the  river,  which  has 
been  followed  a  distance  of  about  30  miles  in  a  northeasterly  direction,  and  having  a  depth 
throughout  of  not  less  than  15  feet,  and  an  average  width  of  40  yards.  It  drains  a  very  fertile 
region,  densely  covered  with  many  varieties  of  wood.  Numerous  Indian  encampments  were 
found  along  its  banks  from  the  mouth,  and  quite  extensive  fish  weirs  were  discovered  and 
destroyed. 

When  off  the  entrance,  in  1854,  Ave  saw  about  a  dozen  houses  which  had  been  built  by  the 

miners  engaged  in  washing  the  auriferous  sand  and  gravel  at  the  back  of  the  beach.     In 

approaching  this  coast  we  encountered  a  very  heavy  swell,  with  the  water  changing  to  a  dark 

brown  color,  and  after  passing  through  it  tacked  off  shore,  hove  to,  and  sounded  near  its  outer 

•  limit,  but  found  no  bottom  with  84  fathoms  of  line. 

The  alleged  depredations  of  the  Indians  in  this  section  led  to  a  campaign  against  them  in 
1851.  • 

Some  recent  maps  have  a  river  here,  called  the  Soquils,  and  one  within  a  short  distance 
called  the  Cotamyts,  but  no  such  stream  exists  in  this  vicinity. 

CAPE  GREGORY.       , 

Between  the  Coquille  river  and  this  headland  we  find  another  low  sand  beach  for  ten  miles 
to  the  south  part  of  Gregory,  which  rises  up  very -precipitously;  the  hill  attaining  perhaps 
2,000  feet  elevation  two  miles  back,  runs  in  a  straight  line  northward  for  three  or  four  miles, 
and  bounded  by  many  rocks,  slopes  to  the  northward  to  a  perpendicular  point,  about  60  feet 


TUB   UNITED  STATES   COAST    SUBV9  88 

high,  and  peculiarly  cut  and  worn  by  the  action  of  the  sea.  Thence  it  takes  a  sharp  turn  to 
the  E.NE.  for  two  miles,  to  the  bar  off  the  entrance  to  Koos  bay.  The  cape,  as  seen  from  the 
southward,  shows  a  couple  of  rocks  a  short  distancs  from  its  western  point.  AJong  the  low 
shore  soundings  in  10  fathoms  are  found  one  mile  off.  We  have  been  informed  that  vessels 
anchoring  close  under  the  north  face  of  the  cape  may  ride  out  heavy  southeast  gales.  If  so,  it 
is  very  important,  no  other  place  between  Sir  Francis  Drake's  and  Ne6-ah  bay,  except, 
perhaps,  under  Destruction  island,  affording  that  protection.  If  a  southeaster  should  haul  to 
the  SW.,  and  then  NW.,  as  they  usually  do,  the  chances  of  getting  out  would  be  very  few. 

The  approximate  geographical  position  of  the  NW.  point  of  the  cape  is: 

o     / 

Latitude 43  20  north. 

Longitude 124  20  west. 

And  it  bears  north  30  miles  from  Cape  Orford. 

It  was  named  by  Captain  Cook,  who  placed  it  by  bearings  in  latitude  43°  30',  and  is 
described  by  him  as  follows:  "This  point  is  rendered  remarkable  by  the  land  of  it  rising 
immediately  from  the  sea  to  a  tolerable  height,  and  that  on  each  side  of  it  is  very  low." 
Vancouver  placed  it  in  43°  23'. 

It  is  sometimes  called  by  the  recent  appellation  of  Arago,  which  has  been  adopted  on  the 
Coast  Survey  chaj- ts.     It  is  known  by  both  on  the  western  coast. 

•  KOOS  BAT. 

•  Nearly  3  miles  E.NE.  of  the  northern  extremity  of  Cape  Gregory  is  the  wide  and  well 
marked  entrance  t^  Koos  bay.  The  south  head  is  high  and  bold,  being  the  base  of  the  hills 
forming  the  cape,  whilst  the  north  point  is  low  and  sandy,  with  small  sand  dunes.  We  cannot 
state  their  distance  apart.  On  the  bar,  extending  some  distance  out,  a  depth  of  only  9  to  9J 
feet  of  water  is  found,  but  several  small  coasting  steamers  pass  over,  and  not  unfrequently 
thump  upon  it.  The  bay  presents  the  appearance  of  a  long  lagoon  having  two  branches,  one 
stretching  southeast  from  the  entrance,  and  the  other  following  the  trend  of  the  coast  north- 
ward. Traffic  is  drawn  hither  by  t.he  mining  of  the  coal  (lignite)  which  is  carried  to  the  San 
Francisco  market,  but  is  found  unfit  for  steamship  consumption.  The  geology  of  the  country 
does  not  give  promise  of  coal. 

We  have  seen  the  sea  breaking  completely  across  the  entrance  in  moderate  northwest 
weather,  and  know  that  the  mail  steamer  has  tried  to  enter,  but  upon  seeing  the  danger  would 
not  take  the  risk. 

The  naii^e  Koos  is  that  approaching  nearest  the  Indian  pronunciation  of  the  word.  On  some 
maps  we  find  a  small  stream  called  Cahoos,  disemboguing  just  south  of  Gape  Gregory.  The 
name  on  the  Coast  Survey  charts  is  Kowes,  being  that  used  on  the  first  reconnaissance. 

The 'word  Koos  signifies,  in  the  Too-too-tan  language,  a  lake,  lagoon,  or  land-locked  bay. 
Duflot  de  Mofras  translates  it  R.  des  Vaches. 

In  January,  1859,  the  line  of  eqval  magnetic  vartatwinoi  19°  east  crosses  the  coast-line  in 
latitude  43°  39',  and  in  latitude  43°  29',  crosses  the  125°  of  longitude.  This  line  moves 
annually  southward  about  1  ^  mile. 

UMPQUAH    RIVEB. 

North  of  Koos  bay  to  the  Umpquah  river  is  another  straight,  low  sand  beach,  with  sand 
dunes,  backed  by  a  high  ridge  of  hills  densely  timbered.     The  shore  runs  nearly  north,  pre- 


84  REPORT   OF   THE    SUPERINTENDENT   OF 

seating  a  very  white  appearance  when  the  sun  shines  upon  it,  and  having  from  10  to  15 
fathoms  of  water  one  mile  off  the  beach.  'The  southern  point  of  the  entrance  to  the  river  is 
a  marked  spur  of  the  mountains  from  the  southeast,  and  is  bordered  by  sand  dunes.  The  north 
side  of  the  entrance  is  a  long  range  of  white  shifting  sand  hills,  running  with  the  coast  for  two 
miles,  and  suddenly  changing  to  high,  rocky  hills  covered  with  wood.  The  river  is  the  largest 
stream  entering  the  Pacific  between  the  Sacramento  and  the  Columbia  rivers.  It  is  51  miles 
N.  I  W.  from  Cape  Orford,  and  21  miles  north  of  Cape  Gregory.  The  entrance  is  long  and 
narrow,  running  nearly  north  for  5  miles ;  bordered  on  the  south  side  by  a  rocky,  wooded 
shore  ;  on  the  north,  .for  two  miles,  by  loose  sand  hills,  changing,  after  the  first  mile,  to  sand 
sparsely  covered  with  coarse  grass,  bushes,  and  fir,  and  in  4  miles  to  steep,  high,  rocky  banks, 
covered  with  large  trees.  An  immense  flat,  mostly  bare  at  low  water,' stretches  south  from 
the  north  point  to  within  300  yards  of  the  south  side  of  the  entrance,  through  which  narrow 
space  runs  the  channel,  having  (1853)  a  bar  with  only  13  feet  upon  it,  and  less  than  100  yards 
wide.  From  the  bar  the  point  of  bluff,  just  inside  the  entrance,  bears  NE.  by  E.,  and  is 
distant  1|  mile.  About  1851  or  1852,  two  range  marks  were  placed  on  the  south  shore  for 
running  in  by,  and  they  are  frequently  referred  to  as  data  by  which  to  trace  the  changes  of 
the  bar  ;  but  the  captain  who  erected  them  has  assured  us  that  the  bar  was  not  on  their  range, 
but  to  the  southward  of  it. 

Buoys  for  crossing  tJic  bar. — In  January,  1858,  it  was  announced  that  the  bar  had  been 
marked  by  buoys.  Two  third  class  nun-buoys,  painted  white  Avith  white  and  black  perpen- 
dicular, stripes,  are  placed  in  line  with  the  light-house,  which  bears  from  them  B.  by  N.  ^  N. 
The  inner  buoy  is  just  within  the  bar,  and  in  3J  fathoms  at  mean  low  water,  and  can  be  passed 
on  either  hand,  but  only  close  to  it.  The  outer  buoy  is  just  outside  the  bar  in  10  fathoms  at 
the  same  stage  of  the  tide,  and  can  also  be  passed  on  either  hand.  Keeping  the  two  buoys  in 
range  with  the  light-house,  14  feet  may  be  carried  over  the  bar  at  mean  low  water. 

The  above  directions  show  that  the  bar  of  the  river  has  moved  about  400  yards  to  the 
northward  of  its  position,  as  determined  by  the  hydrographic  survey  of  1853,  and  has,  more- 
over, deepened.  In  light  weather  it  can  be  readily  determined  by  the  breakers  on  each  side, 
but  with  a  heavy  swell  the  sea  is  terrific.  In  October,  1852,  the  Coast  Surveyirg  steamer 
Active  lay  off  the  bar  two  days  trying  to  get  in,  but  found  it  impracticable.  Several  steamers 
Lave  thumped  heavily  on  the  bar,  one  nearly  carrying  away  her  sternpost,  and  in  1858  the 
mail  steamship  Columbia  in  coming  out  had  her  decks  swept  fore  and  Uf  by  the  huge  combers 
rolling  in  like  high  walls.  Several  vessels  have  been  lost  at  its  entrance,  and  within  a  very 
recent  period  no  pilots  belonged  to  the  river,  because  the  trade  was  too  small  to  pay. 

During  the  early  part  of  November,  1858,  the  bar  at  the  entrance  to  the'Umpquah  changed 
greatly,  and  the  depth  of  water  upon  it  was  so  muph  decreased  that  the  steamship  Columbia, 
which  thumped  over  it,  could  not  leave  the  river  for  several  weeks.  Upon  sounding  at  the 
entrance  it  was  found  that  the  channel  across  the  bar  had  moved  about  half  a  mile  northward 
of  its  former  position. 

UMPQUAH  EIVEB   LIGHT-HOUSE. 

The  light-house  is  erected  on  the  south  side  of  the  entrance,  close  to  the  beach,  which  is  of 
shifting  sand.  The  structure  consists  of  a  keeper's  dwelling  of  stone,  with  a  whitewashed 
.tower  of  brick  rising  above  it,  and  surmounted  by  an  iron  lantern  painted  red ;  the  entire 
height  being  92  feet,  and  the  height  of  the  light  100  feet  above  the  mean  sea  level.     The  light 


.  THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST    SURYEY.  85 

is  a  fixtd  white  light  of  the  third  ordor  of  the  syBtem  of  Fresnel.  It  was  first  exhy^ited  October 
10,  1857,  and  shows  every  night  from  sunset  to  sunrise.  In  an  ordinary  state  of  the  atmo- 
sphere it  should  be  seen  from  a  height  of  10  feet  at  a  distance  of  15  miles  ;  20  feet  at  a  distance 
of  16J  miles;  30  feet  at  a  distance  of  17|  miles. 

In  the  day  time  the  towoi  will  s'how  projected  against  the  dark  green  fir  on  the  hills  behind 
it,  and  with  the  sand  dunes  to  the  north,  be  a  capital  mark  for  making  the  river. 

The  geographical  position  of  the  light,  as  determiped  by  the  Coast  Survey,  is: 

O        I  II 

Latitude 43  40  18.5  north. 

Longitude 124  11     0.3  west. 

h,    m.       «. 

Or,  in  time * 8  16  44.2. 

Magnetic  variation  18°  55'  east,  in  July,  1851,  with  a  yearly  increase  of  1'.4. 

From  the  bar  the  light  bears  E.  by  N.  J  N.,  distant  about  a  mile,  (1858.)  After  crossing  the 
bar  the  channel,  when  approaching  the  light-house,  runs  close  to  the  south  shore,  and  increases 
in  depth  from  3J  fathoms  to  13  off  the  point  of  bluff.  Abreast  of  the  meeting  of  the  sand 
beach  and  bluff,  and  on  the  south  side,  lies  a  rock,  visible  at  extreme  low  tide,  upon  the  three- 
fathom  curve.  It  is  not  laid  down  on  any  chart.  From  the  point  of  bluff  vessels  steer  across 
the  river  to  strike  the  east  side  of  the  north  point,  about  one-third  of  a  mile  from  its  extremity; 
then  haul  across  E.NE.  to  the  other  shore,  close  along  which  the  channel  runs;  this  course 
takes  theil  clear  of  a  flat  and  rocks  in  mid-river,  and  bearing  E.NE.  from  the  south  end  of  the 
north  point.  The  small  indentation  of  the  shore  line  on  the  right,  after  making  the  first 
stretch  from  the  point  of  bluff,  is  called  Winchester  bay,  having  no  water,  and  being  but  an 
extensive  mud  flat;  three  miles  inside  the  light-house  the  river  continues  half  a  mile  wide, 
then  expands  to  a  mile,  and  is  filled  with  numerous  extensive  sand  and  mud  flats.  Five  miles 
from  the  light-house  it  bends  sharply  to  the  eastward. 

A  preliminary  chart  of  the  entrance  to  Umpquah  river  was  issued  from  the  Coast  Survey 
Office  in  1854. 

The  secondary  astronomical  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  was  on  the  west  side  of  the  river 
on  the  edge  of  the  first  grove  of  fir,  and  one  mile  fft)m  the  end  of  the  north  point.  Its 
geographical  position  is : 

O         I  II 

Latitude 43  41  453.  north. 

Longitude 124  09  57.0  west. 

h.    m.      (. 

Or,  in  time 8  16  39.8. 

This  river  is  said  to  drain  an  extremely  fertile  region  abounding  in  prairie  land  well  adapted 
to  agriculture  and  grazing.  Ross  Cox  mentions  a  pine  tree  discovered  in  the  Umpquah  valley 
measuring  216  feet  to  its  lowest  branches,  and  being  57  feet  in  circumference. 

The  Indian  name  for  the  river  below  the  rapids  is  Kah-la-wat-set,  and  to  the  upper  part 
they  apply  the  name  Umpt'quah. 

The  first  vessel  we  know  of  entering  it  was  the  schooner  Sam  Boberts,  August  4,  1850,  after 
coming  out  of  Rogue's  river. 

This  river  is  sometimes  supposed  to  be  the  river  discovered  by  Flores  in  1603,  and  after- 
wards referred  to  as  the  "River  of  the  West." 

From  the  Umpquah  the  coast  runs  in  a  remarkably  straight  line  N.  by  W.  ^  W.  to  the  south 


86         •  REPORT  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OK 

point  of  the  ^trance  to  the  Columbia  river,  in  no  case  varying  more  than  3  miles  inside  the 
line  joining  these  two  places. 

Bank. — NW.  by  N.,  distant  66  miles  from  Cape  Orford,  is  the  southern  end  of  a  bank  extending 
parallel  with  the  coast  for  30  miles,  and  about  the  same  distance  from  it.  The  least  depth  yet 
discovered  upon  it  is  43  fathoms,  and  the  nature  of  the  bottom  very  variable,  there  being  blue 
mud,  coarse  blue  sand,  coral,  pebbles,  gravel,  mud,  and  shells.  Coasting  vessels  have  often 
reported  passing  over  localities  having  a  heavy  swell  upon  them,  and  one  frequently  so 
reported  near  the  Umpquah  led  to  the  examination  which  discovered  this.  When  Heceta  was 
upon  this  coast,  and  in  this  vicinity,  he  said:  "On  Sunday  I  found  great  diflferences  [of  depth;] 
at  7  leagues  I  got  bottom  at  80  fathoms;  and  nearer  the  coast  I  sometimes  found  no  bottom." 
Should  a  thorough  examination  of  his  discoveries  here  satisfactorily  show  that  he  did  really 
cross  this  or  any  yet  undiscovered  adjacent  bank,  it  would  be  a  tribute  to  his  explorations  on 
this  coast  to  apply  his  name  to  it. 

CAPE  PERPETUA. 

After  leaving  the  Umpquah  2  or  3  miles  a  bold  rocky  coast,  with  high  steep  hills  covered 
with  timber,  runs  straight  for  about  8  miles,  changing  to  low  sandy  beach  with  sand  dunes, 
backed  by  a  high  ridge  of  hills.  This  continues  for  15  miles,  when  the  hills  stretch  out  to  the 
Bhore,  and  crowd  upon  to  end  abruptly  in  steep  bluffs  forming  Cape  Perpetua,  which  is  39 
miles  N.  by  "W.  ^  W.  from  Umpquah  light,  with  an  approximate  geographical  position  of 
latitude  44°  19',  longitude  124°  06'.  The  face  of  the  cape  is  nearly  5  miles  long,  with  very 
slight  projection  from  the  straight  trend  of  the  shore.  It  is  very  high,  and  has  a  regular 
although  steep  descent  to  the  shore,  bringing  the  trees  to  its  very  edge. 

From  the  Umpquah  to  Perpetua,  at  a  distance  of  a  mile  from  the  shore,  soundings  are  laid 
down  from  8  to  14  fathoms. 

This  cape  was  named  by  Cook  in  1778,  and  by  bearings  placed  in  latitude  44°  06'.  Vancouver, 
in  1792,  gave  its  position  in  latitude  44°  12'. 

In  recent  maps  we  find  a  small  stream  opening  south  ©f  Cape  Perpetua,  called  the  Sciisteum 
river.  "We  could  not  detect  it  in  1853  from  the  distance  of  a  mile,  but  believe  there  is  a  creek, 
with  the  name  of  Scius-clan,  in  this  locality. 

To  the  northward  of  Perpetua  the  coast  range  of  hills  is  cut  by  numerous  valleys,  through 
which  flow  many  small  streams  to  the  ocean. 

TAQUINNAH   EIVER. 

Nine  miles  north  of  Perpetua  is  the  mouth  of  a  stream  believed  to  be  the  Yaquinnah.  It  is 
said  to  expand  into  a  bay,  3  miles  long  by  1^  wide,  running  nearly  east,  and  very  much  con- 
tracted at  the  middle,  where  a  small  islet  exists.  The  south  head  to  the  entrance  is  formed  by 
a  spur  of  the  hills  from  Perpetua.  The  north  point  has  likewise  a  bold  head  with  a  low  sand 
spit  stretching  south  half  a  mile.     The  entrance  is  in  latitude  44°  27'  north,  (approximate.) 

Recent  maps  place  the  Alciyco  river  about  this  latitude.  No  name  is  given  in  the  last  Coast 
Survey  reconnaissance,  and  it  was  not  seen  at  all  by  McArthur  in  1850. 

The  names  of  the  streams  hence  to  the  northward  are  very  conflicting,  and  will  continue  so 
until  a  land  exploration  is  made  along  the  seaboard  for  determining  their  peculiarities  and  the 
latitudes  of  their  mouths. 


THE   UXTTED   STATES   COAST    8DRVEY.  •  87 


CELETSE  BIVEB. 


North  of  Perpetua  the  shore  continues  straight,  high  and  bold  for  5  miles,  when  a  cluster  of 
rocks  occur,  and  the  bluff  chaijos  to  low  sand  beach,  running  nearly  to  the  mouth  of  a.  small 
stream,  about  5  miles  south  of  Cape  Foulweather,  called  the  Alseya  on  the  Coast  Survey  recon- 
naissance of  1850,  and  the  Celetse  in  1853.  This  name  is  the  proper  one.  The  north  head, 
which  is  bold,  has  a  rock  close  under  it.     Thence  the  shore  is  low  and  sandy  to  Foulweather. 

cape"  foulweather. 

From  Perpetua  to  this  cape  the  soundings  range  from  7  to  12  fathoms  about  a  mile  from 
shore.  The  cape  is  in  latitude  44°  45'  north,  and  longitude  124°  04'  west,  and  forms  a  high, 
bold  headland,  half  a  mile  in  width,  jutting  out  about  half  a  mile  from  the  low  beach  and  backed 
by  high  mountains.  It  is  covered  with  wood,  and  has  several  small  rocks  on  ita-eouthwest  face, 
with  one  rocky  islet  a  mile  from  it.  To  the  northward  of  the  cape  are  three  rocky  islets  standing 
a  short  distance  from  the  low  beach,  and  readily  distinguished  by  being  projected  against  it. 
In  August,  1853,  the  astronomical  party  of  the  survey  was  very  desirous  of  effecting  a  landing 
on  or  near  this  cape,  but  the  sea  was  rolling  in  too  heavily  to  warrant  the  attempt.  There  was 
no  appearance  of  a  landing  being  at  all  feasible  except  in  remarkably  quiet  weather. 

This  cape  was  named  by  Cook  on  the  day  he  made  the  coast,  March  6,  1778,  but  the  poiut 
of  the  headland,  so  called  on  the  Coast  Survey  reconnaissance  of  1853,  is  not  that  referred  to 
by  him.  At  noon  he  was  in  latitude  44°  33',  and  the  land  extended  from  NE.  J  N.To  SE.  by 
S.  about  8  leagues  distant.  In  this  situation  he  had  73  fathoms  over  a  muddy  bottom,  and  90 
fathoms  a  league  further  off  shore.  The  land  he  describes  of  moderate  height,  divei-sified  by 
hills  and  valleys,  and  principally  covered  with  wood.  No  striking  object  presenting  itself 
except  a  high  hill  with  a  flat  summit,  which  bore  east  from  him  at  noon.  This  nwwt  have  been 
what  he  subsequently  called  6ape  Perpetua.  At  the  northern  extreme  the  land  formed  a  point, 
which  he  named  Cape  Foulweather,  from  the  exceeding  bad  weather  he  met  with  soon  after. 
The  expression  "northern  extreme"  has  led  some  geographers  to  place  the  cape  as  high  as 
latitude  45J°,  but  he  judged  the  Foulweather  he  named  to  be  in  44"  55'.  Being  here  driven 
off  the  coast  by  continued  bad  weather  ho  had  no  opportunity  to  verify  his  position,  and  did 
not  sight  the  land  again  until  in  latitude  47°  05';  thus  passing  by  the  entrance  to  the  Columbia. 
Vancouver  places  it  in  latitude  44°  49'.  Both  of  these  determinations  evidently  refer  to  the 
northern  part  of  the  high  land. 

Nekas  river. — Soon  after  passing  Foulweather  the  shore  becomes  abrupt  and  moderately  high, 
with  an  increased  depth  of  water  immediately  off  it.  Four  miles  south  of  the  Nekas,  which  is 
in  latitude  44°  56',  it  changes  to  low  sand  dunes  stretching  into  a  narrow  point,  forming  the 
south  point  of  the  stream,  while  the  north  point  is  a  low  bluff.  The  entrance  is  very  narrow 
and  shoal,  and  inside  the  river  is  reported  to  spread  out  into  a  bay  of  about  a  mile*in  extent, 
and  receiving  the  wat«r8  of  a  stream  draining  a  valley  coming  from  the  eastward. 

The  name  is  that  used  on  the  Coast  Survey  charts  of  1860  and  1853.     Previous  maps  have  a . 
small  stream  emptying  near  this,  called  the  Cowes  river. 

Fro^the  Nekas  to  Cape  Lookout  the  distance  is  24  miles,  and  course  N.  by  W.  J  W.,  with 
a  shore-line  broken  by  several  small  streams,  amongst  which  are  the  Ntdume  (reconnaissance, 
1853,)  in  latitude  45°  02*,  with  rocks  in  the  entrance;  the  Nesluggah  (reconnaissance,  1863,)  in 
latitude  45°  06',   called  Vaquinna  in  reconnaitisauce  of  1850,  and  having  a  large  rock  off  its 


88  EEPORT   OF   THE   SUPERINTENDENT    OP 

mouth;  the  Nawuggah  (reconnaissance,    1853,)  in  latitude  45°  14',    and  on  the  south  side  of 
whose  entrance-  is  a  single  rocky  islet,  hereafter  referred  to. 

CAPE  LOOKOUT. 

The  soundings  from  Foulweather  to  this  cape  show  from  13  to  31  fathoms  of  water  at  a 
distance  of  a  mile  from  the  shore,  increasing  from  l8  fathoms  north  of  latitude  45°  N. 

This  capo  is  situated  in  latitude  45°  20',  longitude  124°  00'.  It  projects  somewhat  sharply 
into  the  sea  for  half  a  mile,  and  as  seen  from  the  south  the  top  is  tolerably  flat  and  regular,  and 
at  the  highest  part  we  judge  it  to  attain  an  elevation  of  3, 000  feet.  The  face  directly  toward 
the  ocean  is  perpendicular,  high,  and  toward  the  south  destitute  of  trees.  About  8  miles 
southward  of  it  is  a  large  single  rock  off  the  Nawuggah,  estimated  to  be  250  feet  high,  and 
standing  well  out  from  the  low  sand  beach  behind  it.  No  rocks  lie  off  this  cape,  but  one 
appears  very  close  in  shore  about  a  mile  to  the  northward  of  it. 

This  name  is  that  used  on  the  Coast  Survey  charts  of  1850  and  1853,  and  is  intended  to 
apply  to  the  cape  mentioned  and  fully  described  in  July,  1778,  by  Meares,  whose  description 
has  been  corroborated  by  Vancouver  and  incidentally  by  ourselves. 

For  January,  1859,  the  line  of  equal  magnetic  variation  of  20°  east  crosses  the  coast-line  in 
latitude  45°  23',  and  in  latitude  45°  13'  crosses  the  125°  of  longitude.  This  line  annually 
moves  about  1    mile  southward.  g^^gi^  /f^-^ 

,  CAPE  MEARES. 

Two  or  three  miles  after  leaving  Cape  Lookout  the  land  falls  to  a  low  sand  beach,  behind 
which  is  a  long  lagoon,  called  the  Nat-a-hats,  stretching  northward,  and  having  an  opening 
under  the  south  head  of  the  well  marked  Point  North,  which  is  the  termination  of  a  spur  or 
ridge  running  from  the  southeastward,  presenting  an  abrupt  front  to  the  ocean  for  about  two 
miles,  and  being  part  of  the  western  boundary  of  Tillamook  bay.  In  coming  down  this  coast 
in  the  fall  of  1857  we  made  a  few  notes  upon  some  objects,  and  find  the  following  memorandum 
made  whilst  near  this  point:  "three  high  rocks  (one  arch)  off  point  south  of  False  Tillamook; 
one  more  on  the  north  side."  Not  being  then  aware  of  any  doubt  as  to  the  name  of  the  cape, 
no  other  particulars  were  noted.  Four  rocks  are  laid  down  off  the  southwest  face  on  the  Coast 
Survey  reconnaissance  of  1850,  and  one  on  the  north.  Three  large  rocks  and  one  small  one 
are  laid  down  off  the  southwest  face  in  the  original  sheets  of  the  reconnaissance  of  1853,  the 
most  distant  being  one  mile  from  shore,  with  several  small  ones  between  them  and  the  shore; 
and  two  or  three  others  off  the  northwest  face. 

In  1775  Heceta  placed  La  Mesa,  the  Table,  in  latitude  45°  28' — a  flat-topped  mountain,  seen 
at  a  great  distance. 

In  July,  1788,  Meares,  in  the  Felice,  after  passing  False  Tillamook,  says:  "The  distant 
southerly  headland  we  called  Cape  Lookout.  This  cape  is  very  high  and  bluff,  and  termi- 
nates abruptly  in  the  sea.  At  about  the  distance  of  two  miles  from  it  there  rose  three  large 
rocks,  which  are  very  remarkable  for  the  great  resemblance  thej'  bear  each  other.  The 
middle  one  has  an  archway,  perforated,  as  it  were,  in  its  centre,  through  which  we  plainly 
discovered  the  distant  sea.  They  more  particularly  attracted  our  notice  as  we  laid  no^ 
observed  between  King  George's  sound  and  this  place  any  rocks  so  conspicuously  situated 
near  the  land;  their  distance  from  each  other  might  be  one-quarter  of  a  mile,  and  we  gave 
them  the  name  of  the   'Three  Brothers.'      By  eight  in  the  evening  we  were  within  3  or  4 


THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST   SURVEY.  89 

loiigaes  of  Capo  Lookout,  which  we  judged  to  lio  in  latitude  45'^  30^  north,  longitude  235°  60' 
east." 

In  1792  Vancouver  described  it  as  a  small  projecting  point,  yet  remarkable  for  the  four 
rocks  which  lie  off  it,  one  of  which  is  perforated  as  described  by  Moares.  lie  places  it  in 
latitude  45=  32'. 

This  cape  is  very  frequently,  but  erroneously,  stated  to  be  the  "  Clarke's  Point  of  View," 
as  described  by  Clarke  in  the  winter  of  1805-'6. 

In  the  Coast  Survey  reconnaissance  of  1853  the  northern  part  of  tliis  capo  is  placed  in 
latitude  45°  Sty,  longitude  123'^  58',  and  stretching  southward  two  miles  to  the  cluster  of  rocks 
above  described. 

TILLAMOOK  BAY. 

On  tlje  Coast  Survey  reconnaissance  of  1853  the  entrance  to  this  bay  is  placed  in  latitude 
45"'"%4',  four  miles  north  of  Cape  Meares.  The  southern  point  is  low  and  the  termination  of 
a  spur  from  the  crest  of  the  cape,  whilst  the  north  head  is  high  and  bluQ".  The  entrance  is 
very  narrow,  and  reported  to  have  very  little  water  upon  the  bar;  inside  it  expands  into  a 
long  wide  bay,  stretching  to  the  S.SE.  behind  Cape  Meares.  No  survej'  has  yet  been  made  of 
it,  and  some  doubts  are  expressed  about  the  enlarging  of  the  river  to  form  a  bay.  Two  miles 
northward  of  the  northern  head  stands  a  couple  of  large  rocks;  thence  the  coast  runs  nearly 
straight  to  False  Tillamook,  receiving  a  considerable  stream,  called  the  NeJudem,  in  latitude 
45^41'.  Clarke,  when  about  five  miles  south  of  Tillamook  Head,  says  that  "the  principal 
town  of  the  Killannicks  is  situated  20  miles  lower  (south)  at  the  entrance  to  a  creek  culled 
Nielee,  expanding  into  a  bay,  which  he  named  Killamucks  bay.  Upon  this  bay  were  several 
Killamuck  towns.  Killamuck  river  is  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  100  yards  wide,  and  very  rapid; 
but  having  no  perpendicular  fall,  is  a  great  avenue  for  trade.  There  are  two  small  villages  of 
Killamucks  settled  above  its  mouth,  and  the  whole  trading  portion  of  tlie  tribe  ascend  it  till  by 
a  short  portage  they  carry  their  canoes  to  the  Columbia  valley,  and  descend  the  Multnomah  to 
Wappatoo  island."  This  information  he  obtiiined  from  Indians  and  traders.  On  this  short 
expedition  he  made  all  his  distances  from  Cape  Disappointment  and  Point  Adams  too  great, 
and  reducing  the  forementioned  20  miles  by  the  proper  proportion,  it  would  give  us  13  miles 
as  about  the  position  of  the  Nehalem.  His  name  seems  to  agree  with  this,  but  the  description 
applies  to  what  is  generally  kno^vn  as  Tillamook  bay. 

The  shore  about  the  Nehalem  is  low  and  sandy,  with  sand  dunes  backed  by  high  wooded  hills, 
and  cut  up  by  many  valleys.  It  was  here  that  Meares  stood  in  for  an  anchorage  (July  1788) 
until  he  found  bottom  in  10  fathoms,  but  hauled  out  again  and  named  the  place  Quicksand  bay, 
and  the  adjoining  headland  north.  Cape  Grenville. 

CAPE   FALCON   OH   FALSE   TILLAMOOK. 

The  northern  part  of  this  headland  lies  in  latitude  45°  47'.  Longitude  123°  58'.  Upon  passing 
close  by  it  in  1857,  we  judged  it  to  be  not  less  than  3,000  feet  high,  with  the  sea-face  coming 
precipitously  to  the  ocean;  and  off  it  are  lying  two  prominent  rocky  islets.  -As  seen  from  the 
southward  the  top  is  irregular,  whilst  the  hills  in  shore  fall  away.  Like  some  other  points  in 
this  latitude,  tlic  southern  face  of  the  cape  is  destitute  of  trees,  but  covered  with  a  thick  growth 
of  grass.  ImshoH  and  fern.  Two  miles  south  of  it  is  a  stretch  of  sand  beach  and  sand  dunes. 
12 


90  KEPORT   OF   THE    SUPEKINTENDENT   OF 

From  Capo  Lookout  to  this  headland  a  depth  of  20  fathoms  may  generally  be  found  a  mile 
from  shore,  but,  as  upon  the  whole  coast,  a  heavy  regular  swell  always  rolls  in  from  the  w^est. 

In  1775  Hoccta  placed  a  headland  in  latitude  45°  43',  to  which  he  gave  the  appellation  Cape 
Falcon.  According  to  his  description  it  had  a  rocky  islet  lying  off  it.  This  name  would  be  far 
better  than  applj'ing  the  term  "false"  to  capes,  bays,  &c.,  of  the  names  of  which  we  were  not 
at  first  certain. 

In  1788  Meares  called  this  Cape  Grenville. 

The  Indian  name  for  the  head  is  Ne-a-kah-nie. 

TILLAMOOK   HEAD. 

This  prominent  cape,  in  latitude  45°  58',  is  12  miles  N.NW.  from  Cape  Falcon,  and  19  miles 
SB.  by  S.  J  S.  from  Cape  Disappointment.  The  coast  from  Cape  Falcon  curves  two  miles  east- 
ward; is  bold  and  rugged,  guarded  by  many  high  rocky  islets  and  reefs;  and  in  several  places 
bordered  by  a  low  sand  beach  at  the  base  of  the  cliifs.  Two  miles  south  of  the  head,  Clarke 
(1805-'6)  locates  a  creek  80  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  which  he  calls  Ecola,  or  whale  creek. 
From  the  south  bar  of  the  Columbia  river  the  summit  of  Tillamook  appears  flat  for  some  distance 
back,  and  has  an  estimated  height  of  2, 500  feet.  Off  the  face  of  the  cape,  which  is  very  steep, 
lie  several  rocky  islets;  one  of  them  is  high  and  rugged,  and  stands  out  about  a  mile  from  the 
southwest  face.  Around  it  the  water  is  believed  to  be  deep,  as  we  have  seen  a  steamer  come 
almost  upon  it  in  a  thick  fog;  but  inside  of  it  lie  several  high  rocks.  From  the  bar  two  rocks 
can  be  distinctly  seen,  the  inner  being  the  larger,  and  its  apparent  distance  from  the  head  about 
half  the  apparent  height  of  the  cape.  Whether  the  smaller  is  the  one  off  Cape  Falcon  we  did 
not  determine.  As  seen  from  the  southward  the  large  rock  has  a  perpendicular  face  to  the 
westward,  and  slopes  to  the  east.     It  is  the  resort  of  thousands  of  seals. 

This  cape  is  a  good  landmark  for  making  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  river,  no  such  high 
headland  occurring  on  the  coast  northward  of  it  for  over  70  miles;  and  before  being  up  with  it 
the  moderately  high  land  of  Cape  Disappointment  is  seen  and  made  as  two  islands. 

The  face  of  the  cape  is  much  broken  and  formed  principally  of  yellow  clay,  presenting  a 
bright  appearance  in  the  sunlight.  Clai'ke  says  that  1,200  feet  above  the  ocean  occurs  a  stratum 
of  white  earth,  then  (1805-6)  used  by  the  Indians  as  paint;  and  that  the  hill  sides  slip  away  in 
masses  of  50  to  100  acres  at  a  time. 

Upon  the  top  of  the  cape  Clarke  says  he  found  good,  sound  solid  trees  growing  to  a  height 
of  210  feet,  and  acquiring  a  diameter  from  8  to  12  feet. 

From  Tillamook  head  southward  many  miles  was  the  country  of  the  Killamuck  Indians,  then 
estimated  to  number  1,000  people,  and  having  50  houses. 

This  is  the  head  which  is  properly  called  "Clarke's  point  of  View." 

The  coast  from  Point  Orford  to  Tillamook  Head  is  well  diversified  by  high  hills  and  valleys, 
presenting  a  country  well  watered  by  numerous  small  streams  emptying  into  the  ocean.  It  is 
densely  covered  with  various  woods,  and  for  a  few  miles  inland  looks  favorably  from  the  deck 
of  a  vessel.  Some  distance  in  the  interior  ranges  of  mountains  occur,  the  general  direction  of 
which  appears  to  be  parallel  with  the  coast  line,  which  attained  its  greatest  elevation  and  com- 
pactness between  Cape  Falcon  and  Tillamook  Head;  after  which  a  sudden  and  marked  change 
takes  place,  and  a  stretch  of  low  sandy  coast  commences  and  runs  for  nearly  100  miles  north- 
ward, only  broken  by  Cape  Disappointment. 


THE   UNITED  STATES   COAST   8URVOT.  91 

COLUMBIA  RIVER. 

POINT  ADAMS. 

Two  miles  northward  of  Tillamook  Iload  comiuouces  a  peculiar  lino  of  low  sandy  ridges,  run- 
ning parallel  to  the  boaoh  towardn  Point  Adams,  and  appearing  like  huge  sand  waves  covered 
with  grass  and  fern.  Between  some  of  them  run  small  crocks,  whilst  behind  the  country  is 
low,  swampy  and  covered  with  wood  and  an  almost  impenetrable  undergrowth.  About  three 
miles  north  of  the  head,  Clarke  says,  a  beautiful  stream  empties  with  a  strong  rapid  current;  it 
is  85  yards  wide,  and  has  3  feet  at  its  shallowest  crossing. 

Point  Adams  is  low  and  sandy,  covered  with  bushes  and  trees  to  tlie  line  of  sand  beach  and 
low  dunes;  and  although  it  is  reported  to  have  washed  away  over  half  a  mile  since  1841,  we 
find  comparatively  small  changes  since  the  survey  of  Brougmon  in  1792. 

The  geographical  position  of  the  triangulation  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  on  the  point  is: 

Latitude 46  12  30.4  north. 

Longitude 123  56  55.8  west. 

A.    m.      t. 

Or,  in  time 8  15  47.7 

This  station  is  on  the  inside  of  the  point,  and  almost  half  a  mile  from  it. 

No  light-house  exists  here,  but  the  necessity  for  one  has  been  so  repeatedly  urged  that  wo 
cannot  refrain  from  calling  attention  to  a  few  facts  bearing  upon  the  question.  Off  this  point, 
SW.  by  S.  Z\  miles,  lies  (1852)  the  bar  of  the  south  channel,  through  which  the  far  greater 
portion  of  the  trade  has  passed ;  and  all  vessels  use  this  point  as  a  standard  point  for  their 
ranges.  During  the  early  part  of  the  evening  dense  fogs,  formed  over  the  waters  of  Gray's 
and  Shoalwater  bays,  are  brought  southward  by  the  summer  winds,  and  roll  over  Disappoint- 
ment, which  they  completely  shut  in  before  reaching  across  the  river,  so  that  a  vessel  might 
make  a  light  on  Point  Adams  when  the  other  cape  was  invisible;  but  by  seeing  both  lights  a 
vessel  could  hold  any  required  position  at  night  near  either  bar,  and  run  in  or  take  a  pilot  upon 
the  first  opportunity;  for  it  would  bo  assuming  too  great  a  risk  to  enter  the  river  at  night,  or 
without  a  pilot. 

This  point  was  called  Cape  Frondoso  by  Heceta,  who  discovered,  but  did  not  enter,  this  river 
in  August,  1775,  and  named  Adams'  Point  by  Captain  Gray,  in  1792.  The  Indian  name  of  the 
point  is  Klaat-sop. 

The  beach  around  Point  Adams  and  to  the  southward  some  distance  is  usually  called  Clatsop 
beach.  Upon  it,  many  years  ago,  before  the  whites  occupied  the  country,  a  Chinese  or  Japanese 
junk,  with  many  hands  and  a  cargo  of  beeswax,  was  cast  ashore  and  went  to  pieces;  but  the 
crew  were  saved.  In  support  of  this  Indian  tradition,  there  are  occasionally,  after  great 
storms,  pieces  of  this  wa.\  thrown  ashore,  coated  with  sand  and  bleached  nearly  white. 
Formerly  a  great  deal  was  found,  but  now  it  is  rarely  met  with.  Belcher  mentions  having  a 
specimen.  Many  people  on  the  Columbia  possess  them,  and  we  have  seen  several  pieces.  In 
a  late  work  this  wreck  has  been  confounded  with  another  that  took  place  near  Cape  Flattery. 


92  RKPORT  OP  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OP 

COAST  AND  SHORES  OF  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY  AND  OPPOSITE  SHORE  OP 

VANCOUVER  ISLAND. 

CAPE   DISAPPOINTMENT. 

The  north  side  of  the  Columbia  river  forms  part  of  "Washington  Territory. 

This  cape  is  the  only  headland  from  Tillamook  to  latitude  47°  20'  that  breaks  the  low  line  of 
shore.  It  presents  a  geological  formation  not  before  met  with  on  the  seaboard,  being  composed 
of  horizontal  columnar  basalt,  rising  to  an  elevation  of  287  feet,  disposed  in  a  succession  of  huge 
round  hills,  broken  on  the  sea  front  by  short  strips  of  sand  beach,  and  covering  an  irregular 
area  of  about  three  miles  by  one.  The  sea-faces  of  all  the  hills  and  irregularly  projecting 
knobs  rise  perpendicularly  for  many  feet,  then  slope  slightly  inshore  to  narrow  ridges;  are 
destitute  of  trees,  but  covered  with  grass,  fern,  and  bushes,  and  have  an  excellent  though  thin 
soil.  Inland  of  their  crests  the  trees  commence,  and  their  tops  reaching  above  the  summits  of 
the  hills  increase  their  apparent  height.  The  inshore  slope  of  the  hills  is  more  gentle,  so  that 
paths  can  be  easily  carried  to  their  tops.  In  1851  we  opened  an  ox-team  road  to  the  summit 
of  the  cape.  When  the  evening  fogs  from  the  northern  bays  do  not  cover  the  cape,  we  have 
sometimes  experienced  a  dense  fog  rolling  down  the  river  about  sunrise,  enveloping  everything 
below  the  top  of  the  cape  upon  which  we  have  stood,  when  it  looked  like  an  island  less  than  a 
hundred  yards  in  extent,  and  surrounded  by  the  river  fog,  that  must  be  felt  to  be  appreciated. 
We  were  35  days  on  this  cape  before  obtaining  a  single  night's  observations. 

As  seen  from  the  southward,  when  oif  Tillamook  Head,  Cape  Disappointment  is  made  as  two 
round-topped  islands;  approached  from  the  northwest  it  rises  in  a  similar  manner;  from  the 
west  and  southwest  it  appears  projected  upon  the  mountains  inland,  but  the  slightest  haziness 
in  the  atmosphere  brings  it  out  in  sharp  relief. 

This  cape  being  basaltic,  and  showing  an  almost  iron  front  to  the  river  and  sea,  it  is  impro- 
bable that,  "in  the  memory  of  many.  Cape  Disappointment  has  been  worn  away  some  hundred 
feet  by  the  sea  and  strong  currents  that  run  by  it." 

On  the  first  landing  beach  on  the  inside  of  the  cape  we  found  a  deposit  of  auriferous  and 
ferruginous  "black  sand,"  the  flakes  of  gold  being  very  small  and  scarce.  This  ferruginous 
deposit — the  "black  sand"  of  the  California  gold  digger — caused  a  local  disturbance  in  the 
magnetic  variation,  amounting  to  26'.  2,  being  that  quantity  less  than  the  declination  found 
upon  the  summit  of  the  cape. 

CAPE   DISAPPOINTMENT  LIGHT-HOUSE. 

The  light-house  is  not  upon  the  top  of  the  cape,  but  upon  a  spur  a  little  to  the  west  of  the 
southeast  point,  and  about  95  feet  below  the  highest  part.  The  tower  is  whitewashed,  placed 
192  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  being  40  feet  in  height  and  projected  against  a  dark 
green  background  shows  well  in  daylight. 

The  light  is  a  fixed  white  light,  of  the  first  order  of  Fresnel;  was  first  exhibited  October  15, 

1856,  and  shows  from  sunset  to  sunrise.     Under  a  favorable  state  of  the  atmosphere  it  should 

be  seen  from  a  height  of — 

10  feet  at  a  distance  of  21  miles. 

20  "  "         22^     " 

30  "  "         23|     " 

60  "  "         26J     " 


THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST    SURVEY.  93 

Its  jjoogruphical  position,  na  dutcrmined  by  the  Coast  Survey,  is: 

O         I         II 

Latitude ■ 4G  16  32.7  north. 

Longitude 124  02  13     west. 

A.     m.     «. 

Or,  ill  time   8  16  08.9 

Magnetic  variation  20°  45'  oast,  in  July,  1851,  with  a  yearly  increase  of  1'.4. 
Counting  round  seaward  from  the  soutli,  it  commands  a  horizon  of  about  135  degrees,  that 
is,  from  S.SE.  to  W.NW.;  so  that  vessels  coming  from  tlio  northward  cannot  see  the  light  until 
nearly  in  the  latitude  of  the  river.  Placed  on  the  top  of  the  cape,  it  could  have  been  easily 
made  to  show  over  the  northwest  part  of  it,  and  would  also  have  commanded  the  entire  river 
and  Baker's  bay. 

From  Cape  Disappointment  we  have  the  following  bearings  and  distances  of  objects  to  the 
northward : 

Point  Grenville NW.  by  N.  J  N.,  62  miles. 

Destruction  island NW.  by  N.,  84     " 

Flattery  rocks NW.  |  N.,  118     " 

The  last  lino  passes  tangent  to  the  coast  in  latitude  47="  58',  where  there  are  two  well  marked 
rocks,  which  will  be  hereafter  described. 

Fog-bell  at  Cape  Disappointment. 

A  fog-bell  of  1,600  pounds  has  been  placed  on  the  bluff  in  advance  of  the  light-tower,  and  will 
be  sounded  during  foggy  or  other  thick  weather  night  and  day.  The  distinctive  mode  of  striking 
we  have  not  yot  found  published.  The  machinery  is  on  a  level  with  the  ground,  in  a  frame 
building,  whitewashed,  and  with  the  front  open  to  receive  the  bell. 

The  primary  astronomical  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  is  on  the  highest  part  of  the  southern 
extremity  of  the  cape.     Its  geographical  position  is: 

Latitude 46  16  35.2  north. 

Longitude 124  02  01     west. 

A.     m.     (. 

Or,  in  time 8  16  08. 1 

From  Cape  Blanco  to  Cape  Disappointment  the  extent  of  ocean  shore  line  is  not  less  than 
285  miles. 

In  August^  1775,  this  cape  was  placed  by  Heceta  in  latitude  46°  17',  and  called  Cape  San 
Roque. 

In  July,  1788,  it  was  called  Capo  Disappointment  by  Meares,  and  placed  in  latitude  46°  10' 
"by  an  indifferent  observation."  It  was  called  Cape  Hancock  by  Gray,  in  1792,  and  the 
entrance  placed  in  latitude  46°  17';  he,  however,  changed  this  name  to  Disappointment  upon 
hearing  that  Meares  had  so  named  it. 

In  1792  it  was  placed  in  latitude  46°  19'  by  Vancouver. 
.  On  the  Pacific  coast  it  is  and  has  been  kno^^ni  by  no  other  name  than  Cape  Disappointment. 

The  Indian  name  for  the  cape  is  Kah-eese. 

THE  ENTRANCE  TO  THE  COLUMBIA  RIVER. 

The  entrance  to  this,  the  great  river  of  the  Pacific  coast,  is  5  miles  wide  between  the  nearest 
parts  of  Cape  Disappointment  and  Point  Adams,  bearing  S.  584°  R.  and  N.  58,J°  W.  from  each 


94  REPORT   OF   THE   SUPERINTENDENT    OF 

other;  but  the  passage  is  badly  obstructed  by  shifting  shoals  that  lie  2  or  3  miles  outside  of  the 
line  joining  the  points.  The  numerous  surveys  that  have  been  made  of  this  river  prove  so 
conclusively  the  great  changes  which  the  channels  through  the  shoals  undergo  that  wo  shall 
not  attempt  to  give  any  directions  concerning  the  present  nortli  and  south  channels.  The  best 
advice  we  can  offer  is,  when  up  with  the  bar,  wait  for  a  pilot.  The  mail  and  coasting  steamers 
enter  the  south  channel  (October,  1857,)  parallel  and  close  to  the  beach  south  of  Point  Adams, 
but  with  a  heavy  swell  from  the  westward  they  roll  very  much  after  rounding  the  point.  In 
heavy  weather  some  of  them  prefer  entering  the  north  channel,  although  it  gives  a  detour  of 
some  miles,  but  the  bar  has,  and  always  has  had,  more  water  upon  it  than  that  at  the  south 
channel,  and  does  not  change  its  position  as  much,  from  the  unwearing  nature  of  the  cape. 
Sailing  vessels  cannot  beat  into  the  south  channel  against  the  summer  winds  blowing  from  the 
northwest,  but  almost  invariably  come  out  through  it.  The  heavily  laden  vessels  of  the  Hudson 
Bay  Company  have  always  used  the  north  channel. 

During  heavy  weather,  and  especially  in  winter,  the  sea  breaks  with  terrific  fury  from  north- 
west of  Cape  Disappointment  well  to  the  southward  of  Point  Adams;  and  we  remember  the 
mail  steamer  trying  for  60  hours  to  find  the  smallest  show  of  an  opening  to  get  in.  Sailing 
vessels  have  laid  off  the  entrance  6  weeks,  waiting  for  a  fair  opportunity  to  enter,  and  many  lie 
inside  for  weeks  trying  to  get  out.  The  mail  steamer,  meanwhile  exerting  all  her  power,  would 
drive  through  the  combers,  having  her  deck  swept  fore  and  aft  by  every  sea.  Few  places 
present  a  scen^  of  more  wildness  than  this  bar  during  a  southeast  gale,  contrasting  strongly 
with  many  times  during  the  summer,  when  not  a  breaker  is  seen  to  mai'k  the  outline  of  the 
shoalest  spot.  From  the  summit  of  Cape  Disappointment  we  have  often  watched  the  bar  in 
varied  states  of  wind  and  weather,  and  crossed  it  when  calm  and  breaking.  What  is  most 
needed  here  is  a  powerful  propeller  tug,  which  the  amount  of  trade  would  assuredly  warrant, 
when  we  know  that  the  much  smaller  trade  of  Humboldt  bay  supports  handsomely  a  tug  for 
that  bar.  In  bad  weather  the  pilot  boats  cannot  venture  out,  but  a  steamer  might;  and  the 
mail  steamers,  to  avoid  delay,  now  regularly  carry  a  bar  pilot  with  them. 

During  the  season  of  freshets,  about  June,  the  pilots  say  that  the  river  brings  down  such  a 
vast  body  of  water  that  they  can  frequently  take  up  for  use  fresh  water  upon  the  bar. 

When  off  the  entrance  in  fine,  clear  weather,  the  beautiful  snow  peak  of  Mount  St.  Helens* 
shows  over  the  lowest  part  of  the  land  inside,  and  apparently  in  the  mictdle  of  the  river  valley. 
It  is  very  regular  in  outline,  and  presents  a  pyramidal  appearance,  having  a  base  equal  to  either 
side.  It  is  over  75  miles  eastward  from  the  entrance  to  the  river,  and  attains  an  estimated 
elevation  of  12,000  feet.     It  is  volcanic,  and  occasionally  discharges  volumes  of  smoke. 

On  October  22,  1792,  Vancouver  reported  having  seen  several  water  spouts  off  the  entrance, 
and  that  some  of  them  passed  quite  near  his  ships. 

The  current. — In  October,  1851,  whilst  lying  at  anchor  in  the  south  channel  off  Sandy  island, 
we  measured  the  strength  of  the  ebb  current,  and  found  it  to  be  nearly  b^  miles  per  hour. 

Tides. — At  Astoria  the  corrected  establishment  or  mean  interval  between  the  time  of  the 
moon's  transit  and  the  time  of  high  water  is  XII/*.  XLIIr?i.  The  mean  rise  and  fall  of  tides  is  6. 1 
feet;  of  spring  tides,  7.4  feet;  and  of  neap  tides,  4.6  feet.  The  mean  duration  of  the  flood  is 
6/t.  3m. ;  of  the  ebb,  6/i.  28m. ;  and  of  the  stand,  OA.  33m.  The  average  difference  between 
the  corrected  establishments  of  the  a.  m.  and  p.  m.  tides  of  the  same  day  is  Ih.  02m.  for  high 
water  and  07*.  52??i.  for  low  water.     The  differences  when  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest 

'-'Named  hv  Vancouver  in  1792. 


THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST   SUBVEY.  98^ 

aro  lA.  38m.  anJ  l/i.  15m.  respectively.  The  avornpc  difference  in  lioi^ht  of  tliosc  two  tides  ia 
1.4  foot  for  the  higli  waters  and  2.3  foot  for  the  low  waters.  When  the  moon's  declination  i« 
greatest  those  differences  aro  1.9  foot  and  3.7  feet  respectively.  The  average  difference  of 
the  highest  high  and  lowest  low  waters  of  the  same  day  is  7.9  feet,  and  when  the  moon's  decli- 
nation is  greatest,  8.9  feet.  The  highest  high  tide  in  the  twenty-four  hours  occurs  about 
12A.  Mm.  after  the  moon's  upper  transit,  (southing,)  when  the  moon's  declination  is  north,  and 
about  Oh.  I5m.  before,  when  south.  The  lowest  of  the  low  waters  occurs  about  7J  hours  after 
the  highest  high  water.  At  Capo  Disappointment  it  is  high  or  low  water  about  40m.  earlier 
than  at  Astoria. 

The  discovery  of  the  river  mul  chawjes  tn  the  channel. — The  discoverer  of  this  river  was  Bruno 
Heceta,  commanding  the  Spanish  ship  Santiago.  On  the  15th  of  August,  1775,  he  was  off  the 
entrance  of  a  great  river  or  inlet^  which  he  called  Enscfiada  de  Asuncion,  (Assumption  inlet;) 
but  in  the  charts  afterwards  published  in  Mexico  it  was  denominated  Enseflada  de  Heceta  and 
the  Rio  de  San  Roque. 

In  July,  1788,  Meares  sought  an  anchorage  under  Cape  San  Roque,  and  finding  the  breakers 
barring  his  progress,  applied  the  name  Deception  bay  to  the  mouth  of  the  river;  and,  doubtless 
to  vent  his  pique  upon  the  Spaniards  for  the  ill  treatment  he  had  received  at  their  hands, 
WTote:  "We  can  now  safely  assert  that  there  is  no  such  stream  as  that  of  Sjiint  Roc  existing, 
as  laid  down  in  the  Spanish  charts;  to  those  of  Maurello  we  made  continual  references,  but 
without  receiving  any  information  or  assistance  from  them." 

In  April,  1792,  Vancouver  sought  for  this  river,  but  finding  a  great  line  of  breakers  before 
him,  very  wisely  did  not  attempt  to  pass  through  them.  On  the  29th  of  that  month  ho  spoke 
the  Columbia  of  Boston,  commanded  by  Captain  Gray,  who  informed  him  that  he  had  laid  off 
the  mouth  of  a  river  in  latitude  46°  10',  where  the  outset  or  reflux  was  so  strong  that  for  nine 
days  he  was  prevented  from  entering;  whereas  Vancouver,  having  passed  this  position  on  the 
27th,  wrote  on  that  day  "that  if  any  inlet  or  river  should  bo  found,  it  must  bo  a  very  intricate 
one,  and  inaccessible  to  vessels  of  our  burden,  owing  to  the  reefs  and  broken  water." 

On  the  11th  of  May,  1792,  about  noon.  Captain  Gray's  log  states,  that  "being  a  little  to  the 
windward  of  the  entrance  into  the  harbor,  bore  away  and  run  in  E.NE.  between  the  breakers, 
having  from  5  to  7  fathoms  water.  When  we  came  over  the  bar  we  found  this  to  be  a  largo 
river  of  fresh  water,  up*  which  we  steered."  Without  knowing  of  any  reliable  chart  by  him, 
we  are  of  opinion  that  then  there  was  but  one  channel,  and  that  to  the  north  of  what  is  now 
Sandy  island.  Ho  evidently  came  upon  the  entrance  after  very  favorable  weather,  becjiuso  ho 
not  only  passed  over  the  bar  between  the  breakers  with  all  sail  set,  but  had  only  made  6  leagues 
between  daylight ^d  noon.  He  remained  8  or  9  dajs  in  the  river,  made  a  rough  sketch  as  far 
as  Tongue  Point  or  Gray's  bay,  and  named  the  river  after  his  ship,  calling  it  the  "  Columbia's 
river. " 

In  October,  1792,  Vancouver  tried  to  enter  the  river  with  the  Discovery,  but  failing,  on 
account  of  the  bad  state  of  the  bar,  ho  ordered  Lieut.  Broughton,  in  the  armed  tender  Ghat- 
liam,  to  enter,  which  he  did  three  days  afterwards,  and  tlien  commenced  a  survey  of  the  river, 
carrying  it  forward  iq  boats  to  Point  Vancouver,  in  latitude  45°  27',  and  returning  to  his  vessel 
in  ten  days.  He  considered  the  widest  part  of  the  river  for  25  miles  as  an  inlet.  This  is  the 
first  reliable  survey  wo  have  of  the  river.  Gray's  eye  sketch,  which  extended  to  about  Gray's 
bay,  showed  3G  miles  from  Capo  Disappointment,  whereas  it  is  only  IG,  following  the  course 
of  the  northern  channel  by  the  most  recent  surveys.     After  crossing  the  bar  the  Chatham 


96  REPORT   OP   THE    SUPERINTENDENT    OP 

anchored  in  4  fathoms,  1^  mile  E.  by  S.  |  S.  from  the  eastern  part  of  Cape  Disappointment. 
Within  a  cable's  length  of  the  ship  the  sea  broke  very  heavily  on  the  western  end  of  a  shoal 
called  the  Spit  Bank,  the  southern  edge  of  which  stretched  about  E.  by  N.  in  a  direct  line  to 
Cliinook  Point*  behind  which  rises  Scarborough  MUi  destitute  of  trees  and  covered  with  fern- 
Well  up  in  Baker's  hay,X  north  of  the  cape,  he  gives  soundings  in  3,  5,  and  7  fathoms  within 
less  than  a  mile  from  the  shore.  From  Cape  Disappointment  the  southern  edge  of  an  outside 
shoal  extended  about  1^  mile  SW.  by  S.,  stretched  W.SW.  nearly  2  miles,  then  trended 
N.NW.  parallel  to  the  outer  beach.  A  great  shoal  occupied  the  whole  middle  part  of  the 
river  east  of  Point  Adams.  Its  northern  edge  ran  parallel  with  and  half  a  mile  from  the  shore 
between  Gray's  Point  and  Ellis'  Point, §  there  being  from  7  to  14  fathoms  in  the  channel 
between  it  and  the  shore.  From  Ellis'  Point  it  then  stretched  in  nearly  a  straight  line  to 
within  a  mile  of  Point  Adams,  where  the  tail  of  it  had  but  2  fathoms;  thence  curved  to  the 
SE.  about  a  mile,  and  stretched  in  a  long  curve  to  Tongue  Poi'wi,  ||  keeping  about  three-quarters 
of  a  mile  from  the  shore  abreast  of  Point  George,  5  miles  from  Point  Adams;  and  in  the  channel 
between  it  and  the  shore  he  gives  from  3  to  7  fathoms.  Starting  half  a  mile  inside  of  Point 
Adams  and  stretching  over  to  the  tail  of  the  above  shoal  was  a  bar,  having  but  3  fathoms 
upon  it. 

From  Point  Adams  the  northern  edge  of  the  breakers  stretched  seaward,  first,  W.  ^  N. 
about  3|  miles;  next,  SW.  by  W.  \  W.  about  5  miles;  then  took  a  rounding  course  to  the 
southward,  extending  along  the  coast  at  a  distance  of  nearly  8  miles.  From  this  point  of 
view  (Adams)  the  north  and  south  breakers  were  so  shut  in  with  each  other  as  to  present  an 
entire  line  of  heavy  broken  water  across  the  channel,  which  was  about  \\  mile  wide  at  the 
narrowest  part,  and  having  not  less  in  any  place  than  4  fathoms.  The  outer  line  of  5  fathoms 
off  the  bar  bore  SW.  by  W.  5 j  miles  from  Cape  Disappointment. 

This  channel  permitted  the  heavy  western  swell  to  roll  in  over  the  bar,  and  break  upon  the 
shoal  stretching  between  Point  Adams  and  Point  Ellis.  The  directions  given  by  Broughton 
for  entering  are:  to  bring  Tongue  Point,  which  looks  like  an  island  near  the  southern  shore 
of  the  river,  to  bear  about  E.  by  N.  and  then  steer  for  it;  crossing  the  bar  in  4  and  5  fathoms. 

In  stating  the  distances  above,  we  should  mention  that  Broughton  gives  the  course  from 
Disappointment  to  Adams  as  SE.  by  E.  and  the  distance  about  4  miles,  whereas  it  is  really  5 
miles.  Making  this  change  in  his  base,  and  all  other  positions  in  proportion,  we  find  that  Tongue 
Point  comes  within  half  a  mile  of  the  determination  by  the  ti-iangulation  of  the  survey;  proving 
Broughton' s  work  right  but  the  base  wrong. 

From  the  foregoing  description  we  deduce  the  following  facts:  That  but  one  channel  existed 
at  the  entrance  to  the  Columbia  river  in  1792;  its  general  direction  across  the  bar  was  E.  by 
N.  I  N.  passing  1^  mile  south  of  Cape  Disappointment;  it  was  6  miles  long  from  the  outer  5 
fathoms  curve  to  a  line  joining  Point  Adams  and  the  cape;  it  was  \\  mile  wide,  and  having 
not  less  than  4  fathoms  in  it :     That  the  Spit  bank  stretched  nearly  straight  from  about  a  mile 

~  Its  present  name,  but  called  Village  Point  by  Broughton,  because  he  here  found  a  large  deserted  village.  He  says  the 
natives  called  it  Chenoke. 

f  Named  after  an  employ^  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  who  lived  here  and  acted  as  pilot  on  the  river  at  and  since  the 
time  of  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition. 

%  Named  by  Broughton  after  Mr.  James  Baker,  commanding  the  schooner  Jenny,  of  Bristol,  which  he  found  at  anchor  here 
upon  entering. 

§  So  named  on  Belcher's  survey  of  1839  ;  subsequent  surveys  call  it  Point  Ellice. 

II  So  named  by  Broughton. 


THE   UNITED   STATES  COAST  SURVEY.  97 

cast  of  the  Cnpo  to  Chinook  Point.  In  the  space  bounded  by  the  3  lines  joininp  capo  Dinap- 
pointmont,  Chinook  Point,  and  Point  Adams,  5  fathoms  water  was  the  least  found.  The  <k'epe8t 
channel  after  getting  in  was  close  under  the  north  side  of  the  river  eastwiird  of  Chinook  Point, 
and  that,  between  the  river  side  of  Point  Adams  and  the  shoal  stretching  from  Gray's  Point 
towards  it,  a  narrow  channel  existed  with  3  fathoms  in  it. 

Broughton  says:  "The  discovery  of  this  river,  wo  were  given  to  understand,  is  claimed  by  the 
Spaniards,  who  call  it  Entrado  do  Ceta,  after  the  commander  of  the  vessel,  who  is  said  to  bo 
it«  first  discoverer,  but  who  never  entered  it;  ho  places  it  in  46°." 

After  completing  the  survey  he  could  not  get  out  for  several  days,  and  the  Jenny  had  been 
unable  to  cross  the  bar,  during  the  entire  time  he  was  up  the  river. 

In  1813,  when  the  English  sloop-of-war  Raccoon  arrived  in  the  Columbia  she  found  the  shoals 
oflf  the  entrance  had  considerably  changed  in  extent  and  position  from  the  time  of  Broughton. 

British  Admiralty  Svrvey  in  1839. — In  1839  the  entrance  was  surveyed  by  Sir  Edward  Belcher, 
in  the  Sulphur,  and  remarkable  changes  had  taken  place.  Between  Cape  Disappointment  and 
Point  Adams  a  largo  middle  bank  had  formed,  and  near  its  eastern  extremity  a  sandy  island, 
with  a  bank  1.J  mile  in  extent,  visible  at  low  water  and  full  of  snags  and  trees.  It«  northwestern 
point  bore  E.SE.  2|  miles  from  Cape  Disappointment,  stretching  on  this  course  IJ  mile  further, 
so  that  its  eastern  extremity,  off  which  was  deep  water,  bore  N.  J  W.  IJ  mile  from  Point 
Adams.  This  island  and  the  bank  naturally  divided  the  waters  of  the  river,  the  greater  volume 
running  to  the  northward  of  the  bank,  through  Belcher's  channel,  with  7  fathonre  in  it,  and  being 
a  mile  wide  \vithin  the  limits  of  the  3-fathom  curves  until  it  approached  the  cape,  where  it  was 
contracted  to  less  than  half  a  mile  on  a  line  E.SE.  from  the  cape,  but  having  increased  its 
depth  to  16  fathoms.  This  channel  had  cut  away  the  western  end  of  Spit  bank  as  laid  down 
by  Broughton.  From  the  cape,  which  it  washed,  this  channel  ran  south  for  2|  miles  with  an 
average  depth  of  7  fathoms,  and  being  a  mile  wide  within  the  3-fathom  curves;  then  it  ran 
SW.  J  W.  for  2J  miles  to  the  bar,  expanding  in  width  and  decreasing  in  depth,  but  in  no  place 
giving  less  than  4 J  fathoms  upon  the  bar,  which  bore  S.SW.  from  the  cape,  distant  4  miles, 
and  from  Point  Adams  W.  |  S.,  distant  6  miles.  In  the  northern  angle,  where  the  channel  mado 
the  east  turn,  he  has  laid  down  a  spot  bare  at  low  water  with  7  fathoms  close  un^er  it.  From 
the  cape  it  bears  S.  by  W.  2^  miles. 

The  main  channel  eastward  of  Sandy  island  was  under  Chinook  and  Ellis  Points,  having 
deep  water  off  them,  but  becoming  shoaler  and  inlrricate  beyond  them. 

Between  this  channel  and  the  south  shores  lay  the  great  shoal  existing  in  1792,  not  very 
much  changed  in  features,  with  a  narrow  channel  running  from  Point  Adams  to  Tongue  Point, 
having  from  4J  to  9  fathoms. 

The  west  end  of  this  shoal  stretched  out  to  the  line  joining  Chinook  Point  with  Point  Adarlis, 
about  a  mile  from  the  latter,  whilst  between  the  tail  of  Sandy  island  and  this  shoal  was  a 
channel  half  a  mile  wide,  and  having  from  3.J  to  4^  fathoms.  Between  Sandy  island  and 
Point  Adams  ran  Queen's  channel*,  contracting  to  half  a  mile  wide  within  the  3-fathom  curves, 
one  mile  from  Point  Adams,  gradually  expanding  and  running  in  a  general  direction  W.  by  S. 
for  3J  miles,  when  it  divided  into  two — one  running  into  the  north  channel  through  a  narrow  4- 
fathom  cut.  and  the  other  continuing  south,  forming  a  south  channel  one-third  of  a  mile  wide,  and 
having  3J  and  3J  fathoms  upon  it.  From  Cape  Disappointment  it  bore  S,  J  E.,  distant  4  miles, 
and  from  Point  Adams  W.  by  S.  J  S.,  4  miles.     Between  the  two  bars,  about  2  miles  apart,  lay 

•  Named  by  Belcher  in  ISSd. 
13 


98  KEPORT   OF   THE    SUPERINTENDENT    OF 

an  irregular  shoal  of  small  extent,  having  2§  fathoms  upon  it.  The  joining  of  the  north  and 
Queen's  channels  enabled  a  vessel  to  have  a  4-fathom  channel  south  of  Sandy  island,  with  a 
leading  wind  in  summer  time,  while  the  north  was  a  beating  channel. 

A  spot,  bare  at  low  water,  existed  Ij  mile  from  Point  Adams;  its  northern  extremity  close 
to  Queen's  channel,  and  bearing  west  from  Point  Adams.  It  stretched  south  half  a  mile,  and 
was  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  Avidth. 

It  may  not  be  out  of  place  here  to  note  that  the  channel  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  east 
of  Tongue  Point,  now  known  as  the  Woody  Island  channel,  and  claimed  as  a  recent  discovery,  is 
clearly  indicated  by  the  soundings  of  Belcher. 

By  a  comparison  with  the  partial  survey  of  1792  very  remarkable  changes  will  be  seen  to 
have  taken  place.  The  first  is  the  formation  of  the  great  Middle  Bank*,  covering  an  extent  of  4 
square  miles  within  the  three-fathom  curves,  and  part  formed  into  an  island  occupying  the  track 
which  Broughton,  and  doubtless  Gray  and  Baker,  sailed  over  with  five  fathoms;  the  formation 
of  two  channels:  the  bank  on  the  SW.  face  of  Cape  Disappointment,  stretching  1^  mile  south- 
ward of  its  old  limit,  and  almost  crossing  the  only  channel  of  1792;  the  existence  of  the  Middle 
Bank,  within  half  a  mile  of  the  cape,  and  having  but  one  fathom  upon  its  northwest  point,  where 
the  Sulphur  grounded,  when  Broughton  states  that  he  anchored  1^  mile  B.  by  S.  |  S.  from  the 
inner  part  of  the  cape,  there  being  deep  water  between  him  and  the  cape,  whilst  the  Spit  bank, 
which  was  within  a  cable' s  length  of  his  anchorage,  and  stretching  to  Chinook  Point,  had  been 
cut  away  by  the  broad  Belcher  channel;  the  cutting  away  of  three  miles  of  the  western  part  of 
the  shoal  off  Point  Adams,  and  the  opening  of  the  channel  along  the  Clatsop  beach  and  south 
shore,  past  Point  St.  George  and  Tongue  Point. 

Belcher  calls  the  bank  S.SW.  of  the  cape  the  Spit  bank;  and  where  Broughton' s  Spit  bank 
joins  Chinook  Point,  he  designates  it  Chehalis  spit. 

In  his  narrative  he  remarks  that  ' '  the  shoals  in  the  entrance  to  this  river  have  most  materially 
changed  their  features  within  the  last  two  years." — (Vol.  1,  p.  288.) 

Survey  of  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition,  1841. — In  this  survey  we  find  but  one  opening 
to  the  ocean  with  the  north  and  south  channels  passing  through  it.  The  bar  had  5  fathoms 
upon  it,  and  was  nearly  two  square  miles  in  extent,  the  water  deepening  and  the  channel 
contracting  after  passing  it. 

From  Cape  Disappointment  the  bar  bore  SW.  by  S.  |  S.,  distant  4|  miles;  from  Point  Adams 
W.  by  S.,  distant  65-  miles;  with  the  north  shoal  stretching  south  2^  miles  from  the  cape,  and 
the  great  south  shoal  nearly  W.SW.,  5  miles  from  Point  Adams,  having  at  the  narrowest  part 
of  the  single  entrance  a  breadth  of  a  mile. 

From  the  bar  the  course  in  for  the  north  channel  was  E.NE.  2^  miles:  then  N.  ^  W.  i^ 
miles  to  the  inside  of  Cape  Disappointment,  after  passing  which  the  channel  was  wide,  regular, 
and  deep  for  4  miles,  about  E.SE.,  passing  close  by  the  north  side  of  Sandy  island. 

From  the  bar  the  course  for  the  south  channel  was  E.  by  N.  ^  N.  for  .6 j  miles,  running 
within  three-quarters  of  a  mile  of  Point  Adams;  thence  along  the  Clatsop  beach  in  a  good, 
wide  channel. 

The  Middle  Bank  was  nearly  triangular,  with  one  point  abreast  of  Cape  Disappointment;  the 
second  1\  mile  north  of  Point  Adams;  and  the  third  at  the  meeting  of  the  channels  inside  the 
bar.  Each  side  was  three  miles  long;  Sandy  island  was  then  composed  of  two,  the  eastern  end 
of  the  larger  and  southern  one  bearing  N.NW.  \\  mile  from  Point  Adams. 

»  Named  by  Belcher  in  1839. 


THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST    SURVEY. 


99 


Tho  western  tail  of  tbo  great  middle  shoal,  east  of  Point  Adams,  bore  from  that  point  about 
N.NE.,  a  little  over  a  mile  distant,  and  in  range  to  Chinook  Point. 

The  reduced  map  of  the  survey  of  tho  United  States  Exploring  Expedition,  on  an  English 
chart,  shows  the  distance  from  Cape  Disappointment  to  Point  Adams  as  only  4)  miles,  with  the 
bearing  SE.  by  E.  J  E.  Our  measurements  above  are  made  upon  a  scale  representing  that  distance 
as  almost  5  miles,  according  to  a  recent  triangulation. 

The  changes  that  had  taken  place  since  Belcher's  survey,  2  years  previous,  were:  that  the 
south  sands  had  stretched  westward  over  the  entrance  of  Queen's  or  south  channel;  and  that 
channel  had  joined  with  the  north  and  emptied  over  one  bar,  which  was  almost  identical  in 
position  and  extent  with  the  survey  of  1839.  It  had,  however,  moved  about  a  third  of  a  mile 
to  the  southward. 

The  north  channel  was,  therefore,  little  changed;  its  general  direction  was  the  same;  it  had  at 
least  a  fathom  more  than  the  south  channel,  and  retained  the  same  shape  and  direction  after 
passing  inside  the  cape. 

The  contour  and  position  of  the  Middle  Bank  was  nearly  the  same,  but  its  eastern  point  had 
moved  nearly  half  a  mile  to  the  NWl,  giving  deep  water  where  Belcher  placed  the  eastern  part 
of  Sandy  island,  whilst  the  western  islet  occupied  nearly  the  same  position  as  formerly. 

The  western  extremity  of  the  great  middle  shoal,  east  of  Point  Adams,  was  hardly  changed. 

The  course  in  over  the  bar,  and  through  Queen's  or  the  south  channel,  was  straight  for  over 
6  miles  to  abreast  of  Point  Adams,  and  then  ran  in  the  same  direction  a.s  in  1839. 

The  United  States  sloop-of-war  Peacock  was  lost  on  the  north  shoals,  under  Cape  Disappoint- 
ment. 

SUBVET  OP  1850. 

This,  the  first  examination  by  the  Coast  Survey,  was  undertaken  under  peculiar  difficulties, 
which  were  successfully  overcome. 

In  this  survey  we  find  the  formation  of  a  new  south  entrance,  but  evidently  of  so  rec^pnt  date 
that  the  bar  at  the  entrance  cannot  be  said  to  have  over  16  feet  upon  it,  although  two  very 
narrow  passages  on  either  side  of  the  middle  ground  of  the  bar  give  3  fathoms.  From  Point 
Adams  this  bar  bore  SW.,  distant  3J  miles,  being  S.SE.  5^  miles  from  Cape  Disappointment 
light-house.  Inside  the  entrance,  within  the  3-fathom  curve,  the  width  of  the  channel  was 
half  a  mile,  increasing  to  over  a  mile,  and  the  depth  of  water  regularly  increasing  to  14  fathoms 
off"  Clatsop  spit,  IJ  mile  from  Point  Adams,  on  aline  to  Cape  Disappointment.  The  direction 
of  the  channel  was  straight,  N.  by  E.  i  E.  to  Sandy  island,  rounding  Clatsop  spit,  and  running 
close  to  and  parallel  with  the  beach  east  of  Point  Adams,  with  a  depth  of  from  4  to  8  fathpms. 
From  the  outside  of  the  bar  the  south  edge  of  the  south  shoal  stretched  toward  the  shore,  tho 
bottom  changing  from  hard  sand  to  soft  mud  in  approaching  the  beach. 

The  extent  of  the  north  bar  had  so  much  increased  that  it  is  difficult  to  describe,  for  it  had 
an  area  of  over  two  square  miles,  with  from  4  to  5J  fathoms  upon  it,  and  the  bottom  varying 
from  hard  sand  to  soft  mud.  Tho  middle  of  it  lay  south  3J  miles  from  the  highest  part  of  the 
cape.  Within  the  3-f^thom  curve  the  entrance  was  IJ  mile  wide,  and  in  ordinary  weather 
was  marked  by  a  line  of  breakers  on  either  side.  Tho  course  was  nearly  straight  to  the  inner 
point  of  the  cape,  with  the  depth  of  water  increasing  to  11  fathoms  abreast  of  it,  where  tlie 
channel  wa.s  a  little  over  a  third  of  a  mile  wide,  with  tho  Sulphur  spit  on  the  east  side.  Passing 
the  cape,  and  turning  eastward  and  then  E.SE.,  the  3-fathom  channel  was  crooked,  and  in  one 
place  only  400  yards  wide. 


100  REPORT   OF   THE    SUPERINTENDENT    OF 

The  two  bars  bore  from  each  other  SE.  by  B.  and  NW.  by  W.,  and  their  distance  apart  was 
2y  miles,  with  the  seaward  extremity  of  the  Middle  Bank  in  line  between  them. 

The  Middle  Bank  between  the  north  and  south  channel  was  about  a  mile  wide,  and  regular 
up  to  the  cape,  except  the  off-shoot  to  connect  with  Sandy  island,  which  bore  E.  by  S.  J  S.  3J 
miles  from  Disappointment,  and  NW.  |  N.,  two  miles  from  Adams.  N.NE.  from  it  the  Chinook 
shoal  stretched  southward  within  less  than  a  mile. 

The  western  tail  of  the  great  Middle  Bank,  east  of  Point  Adams,  lay  NE.  |  N.  1|  mile  from 
that  point.  • 

The  channels  north  and  south  of  this  bank  had  changed  very  much,  but  to  them  we  shall  not 
again  refer. 

We  note  the  following  changes  since  the  survey  of  1841: 

That  the  south  sands,  then  stretching  6  miles  westward  from  Point  Adams,  had  been  cut 
through  at  a  point  half  their  distance  out  by  a  wide  channel,  with  deep  water,  running  S.  by  W. 
from  Sandy  island,  but  the  bar  of  this  channel  was  not  yet  fairly  cut  through,  having  less  than 
3  fathoms  upon  it.  This  channel  was  therefore  running  at  right  angles  to  the  one  of  1841,  and 
over  the  very  spot  marked  bare  in  1839. 

That  the  north  channel  retained  the  same  general  features,  but  had  moved  to  the  southward; 
its  southern  part  cutting  away  over  a  mile  of  the  west  end  of  the  south  sands  of  1841.  It  still 
had  over  a  fathom  more  water  than  the  south  channel.  Inside  of  Cape  Disappointment  it 
retained  the  same  general  direction  as  in  1839  and  1841,  but  was  more  contracted. 

That  the  Middle  Bank  was  much  changed,  but  its  northern  portion  similar  to  that  of  the  two 
previous  surveys.  The  eastern  point  had  moved  N.NW.  three-quarters  of  a  mile  since  1841. 
Sandy  island  had  much  increased  in  size,  and  apparently  moved  with  it. 

That  a  long  sand  bank  had  made  out  over  a  mile  NW.  from  Point  Adams,  and  was  called  the 
Clatsop  spit. 

That  the  western  tail  of  the  great  Middle  Bank,  east  of  Point  Adams,  had  been  cut  away 
three-quarters  of  a  mile. 

SURVEY  OF   1852. 

This  was  the  second  examination  by  the  United  States  Coast  Survey,  founded  upon  a  complete 
triangulation  and  the  topography  of  Point  Adams,  Sandy  island,  and  Cape  Disappointment. 

Two  channels  remained  as  in  1850.  The  south  had  become  more  defined,  having  3^  fathoms 
across  the  bar,  which  was  three-quarters  of  a  mile  wide,  and  the  general  direction  of  the 
channel  N.  ^  W.  From  Point  Adams  it  bore  SW.  |  S.,  distant  3j  miles,  and  from  Cape 
Disappointment  S.  SE.,  5|  miles.  It  was  2^  miles  distant  from  the  beach  south  of  Point 
Adams. 

The  north  channel  was  S.  ^  W.,  3  miles  from  the  cape,  and  W.  |  S.,  4^  miles  from  Point 
Adams  ;  it  had  4^  fathoms  upon  it  toward  the  southern  side,  and  its  width  was  three-quarters 
of  a  mile.  The  midchannel  course  for  1^  mile  was  NE.  by  N.,  then  N.  by  W.  towards  the 
cape,  turning  to  the  east  half  a  mile  before  reaching  it,  and  after  a  mile  on  this  coarse 
running  E.  SB.  past  the  north  side  of  Sandy  island ;  or,  continuing  past  the  cape  within  a 
quarter  of  a  mile,  then  steering  E.NB.  one  mile,  in  from  8  to  5  fathoms,  changing  to  SE.  by 
E.  through  a  3-fathom  channel,  past  the  NE.  side  of  Sandy  island.  The  old  Spit  bank  of  1192 
had  made  out  half  a  mile  nearer  the  cape  than  then  existing,  but  having  a  3-fathom  channel 
across  it. 


TH£   UNITEU   STATES   UOAST    SURVEY.  101 

The  north  and  south  bars  bore  from  each  other  SE.  and  NW.,  distant  3 J  miles  apart,  with 
the  seaward  face  of  the  Middle  Bank  making  a  direct  lino  on  that  course.  This  bank  had 
changed  its  contour  and  wa»  very  irregular. 

W.SW.  of  Sulphur  spit  a  3-fathom  channel  had  nearly  cut  through  the  north  sands.  Should 
a  channel  open  here  it  would  doubtless  remain  a  reliable  one.  From  Cape  Disappointment  it 
bore  SW.  J  W.,  IJ  mile  distant. 

Sandy  island  bore  £.  by  S.  |  S.,  3  miles  from  the  cape,  and  NW.  ^  N.  2  miles  from  Point 
Adams. 

The  western  tail  of  the  great  Middle  Bank  bore  NE.  by  N.  ^  N.,  a  mile  from  Point  Adams. 

At  the  time  of  this  survey  the  channels  were  buoyed  out,  but  subsequent  gales  have  dis- 
placed the  buoys. 

We  note  the  following  changes  since  the  survey  of  1850,  a  little  over  two  years: 

That  the  new  south  channel  had  been  developed,  and  the  bar  moved  three-quarters  of  a 
mile  eastward,  with  half  a  fathom  more  water  and  the  entrance  wider. 

That  the  north  channel  had  contracted  to  half  its  width  at  the  bar,  with  its  northern  line 
upon  the  line  of  1850;  the  depth  of  water  not  quite  as  great,  but  having  still  a  fathom  more 
than  the  south  bar ;  the  channel  not  as  straight,  and  the  formation  of  a  swash  channel  SW.  of 
the  cape  across  the  north  sands. 

That  the  Spit  bank  of  1792  was  being  redeveloped. 

That  the  Middle  Bank  had  increased  in  size,  and  Sandy  island  moved  over  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  W.NW.,  giving  8  fathoms  of  water  where  the  beacon  of  1850  stood,  and  the  bifurcation 
of  the  bank,  bare  at  low  water,  west  of  it.  Compared  with  the  surveys  of  1839  and  1841,  we 
find  that  ono  part  of  Sandy  island  has  retained  the  same  position,  but  that  a  mile,  stretching 
E.  by  S.  J  S.,  has  been  completely  cut  away,  and  is  now  crossed  by  the  south  channel. 

That  the  Clatsop  spit  has  changed  its  shape,  trending  more  to  the  westward. 

And  that  the  western  tail  of  the  great  Middle  Bank,  east  of  Point  Adams,  occupies  the 
position  of  1839  and  1841. 

No  survey  has  been  made  subsequent  to  that  of  1852,  but  we  can  state,  from  personal 
observation,  that  in  October,  1857,  the  south  bar  was  within  less  than  a  mile  of  the  beach 
south  of  Point  Adams,  and  that  the  channel  ran  nearly  parallel  with,  and  not  distant  more 
than  three-quarters  of  a  mile  from  the  shore.  It  was  unavailable  with  a  very  heavy  sea  on, 
as  a  vessel  had  to  run  it  in  the  trough  of  the  sea,  and  for  sailing  with  a  NW.  wind  it  was  a 
dead  beat.  We  entered^ the  north  channel  in  May,  1857,  and  found  it  wide  and  straight.  It 
was  reported  to  have  one  fathom  more  water  oq.  the  bar  than  the  south.  Those  of  the 
old  buoys  that  remained  were  of  no  use,  on  account  of  having  been  carried  from  their  proper 
stations. 

Condustons. — From  all  these  examinations,  aided  by  plotting  the  outlines  upon  the  same  sheet 
and  to  the  same  scale,  from  corroborative  evidence,  and  from  personal  observation,  we  find 
that  the  south  point  of  the  north  sands  stretching  out  from  Cape  Disappointment  has  remained 
nearly  the  same  since  1839,  bearing  S.  |  W.  from  the  light-house,  distant  2J  miles  ;  has  not 
varied  its  position  half  a  mile  ;  has  never  reached  the  southern  shoal  of  1792  ;  and  that  the  bar 
has  never  had  less  than  4  fathoms  upon  it,  thereby  indicating  that  this  entrance  and  channel 
is  the  less  changeable,  and  has  a  fathom  more  water  than  the  other,  and  that,  with  well 
appointed  buoys  oflF  its  entrance  and  range  beacons  on  Sandy  island  and  Chinook  Point  or 
Scarborough  Hill,  it  will  always  prove  the  safer  and4>ctter  for  the  interests  of  the  country. 


102  EEPORT  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

The  position  of  the  south  enti'ance  is  continually  changing,  and  the  same  causes  that  closed 
it  between  1839  and  1841  will  again  close  it. 

The  formation  of  Sandy  island  precludes  the  probability  of  the  channel  returning  to  the 
capacity  which  existed  at  the  period  of  Brough ton's  survey  in  1792. 

The  great  Middle  Bank,  stretching  from  Point  Ellis  nearly  to  Point  Adams,  remains  almost  the 
same  since  its  first  determination. 

Hydrographic  sketches  of  the  entrance  to  the  Columbia  river  were  issued  from  the  Coast 
Survey  Office  in  1850  and  1851. 

POINTS  INSIDE   OF   COLUMBIA  RIVER  ENTRANCE. 

Sandy  Island,  (1851.)  It  is  about  one-third  of  a  mile  long,  E.NE.  and  "W.SW.,  by  250  yards 
in  width,  and  consists  of  loose  sand  raised  a  few  feet  above  the  river,  and  covered  with  drift 
logs,  trees,  &c.  To  the  westward  of  it  extend  two  sand  bars  nearly  a  mile  in  length,  and  bare 
at  low  water.  The  surveys  of  1839,  '41,  '50,  and  '52  show  that  this  part  of  the  Middle  Bank 
has  occupied  one  position,  and  will  doubtless  retain  it.  In  1792  the  main  channel  of  the  river 
passed  over  this  position,  and  a  line  of  soundings  in  5  fathoms  ran  across  it.  Considering  the 
immense  amount  of  huge  trees  coming  yearly  down  the  river,  we  can  readily  imagine  a  theory 
for  its  formation.  A  large  beacon  erected  upon  it,  distinguishable  outside  the  bar,  and  ranging 
with  another  on  Scarborough  Hill,  would  serve  to  denote  the  position  of  the  north  channel. 

From  Cape  Disappointment  light-house  it  bears  E.  by  S.  ^  S.,  distant  3^  miles. 

It  received  its  present  name  from  Belcher  in  1839.  On  the  Coast  Survey  charts  it  is  called 
Sand  island. 

Chinook  Point  lies  N.  by  E.  2|  miles  from  Point  Adams,  and  E.  \  N.  4|  miles  from  Cape 
Disappointment.  It  is  a  long,  low  sand  strip  at  the  base  of  the  high  wooded  hills  behind  it. 
One  of  the  hills,  called  Scarborough,  is  readily  recognized  by  a  great  part  of  its  southern  slope 
being  destitute  of  trees  and  covered  with  fern ;  no  other  hill  near  this  vicinity  possesses  this 
peculiar  feature. 

A  number  of  fishing  and  Indian  huts  are  situated  upon  the  Chinook  beach,  the  people  being 
engaged  in  catching  and  curing  salmon,  with  which  the  waters  abound.  The  mode  of  catching 
them  is  by  means  of  nets;  those  of  Indian  construction  being  made  of  twine  spun  from  the 
fibres  of  the  spruce  roots,  and  sometimes  from  a  peculiar  grass  obtained  from  northern  coast 
Indians.  The  mode  of  curing  is  very  rude  and  inefficient,  and  thousands  of  barrels  that  have 
been  shipped  have  proved  worthless.  There  is  no  reason  why  this  should  not  become  a  large 
and  profitable  branch  of  business.  The  fish  are  the  largest  on  the  coast,  often  exceeding  80 
pounds  weight.  We  have  purchased  them  weighing  between  50  and  60,  caught  upon  the  beach  at 
the  sea  base  of  Cape  Disappointment.  They  commence  to  run  about  the  end  of  May,  and 
become  remarkably  plentiful  by  the  third  week  in  June.  The  Indians  suppose  that  the  salmon, 
coming  directly  from  the  ocean,  linger  about  the  entrance  several  weeks  before  starting  up  the 
river,  because  they  require  time  to  become  accustomed  to  the  fresh  waterj  attributing  to  a 
wrong  cause  this  normal  habit  of  the  salmon. 

Chinook  Point  was  the  special  location  of  the  once  powerful  tribe  of  Chinook  Indians,  and 
here  the  celebrated  one-eyed  chief,  Concomly,  held  sway.  The  tribe  has  dwindled  to  less  than 
a  hundred  persons — men,  women,  and  children — and  they  are  poor,  miserable,  drunken,  diseased 
wretches. 

The  point  was  called  Village  Point  by  Bfoughton  in  1792. 


THE   DOTTED  STATES  COAST    SURVEY.  103 

In  1839  it  was  called  Chenoke  Point  by  Belcher.     The  Indian  name  is  Ndse-to-ilse. 

Foinl  Ellis  is  2J  miles,  nearly,  oast  of  Chinook  Point;  the  sand  beach  between  the  two  being 
in  some  places  nearly  a  mile  wide,  running  at  the  bastfof  the  hills  and  surrounding  a  largo 
lagoon  near  Chinook.     From  Point  Adams  it  bears  NE.,  distant  4^  miles. 

Behind  Point  Ellis  rise  two  hills,  the  southern  of  which  is  used  as  a  range  with  Point  Adams 
for  denoting  the  entrance  to  the  south  channel,  but  of  course  the  relative  positions  vary  with 
every  change  of  the  bar. 

It  was  called  Ellis  Point  by  Belcher  in  1839,  and  Point  Ellico  by  the  United  States  Exploring 
Expedition  in  1841,  and  this  spelling  is  found  upon  all  recent  maps. 

The  Indian  name  is  No-wchtl-kai-ilse. 

Astor  Point  lies  E.  |  N.,  distant  5|  miles  from  Point  Adams.  It  is  low  at  the  river  bank, 
but  has  moderately  high  wooded  land  behind  it.  The  southern  channel  passes  close  to  it.  The 
name  is  derived  from  a  Coast  Survey  triangulatiou  and  secondary  astronomical  station  upon  it, 
but  it  is  in  reality  a  part  of  Point  George. 

The  geographical  position  of  the  station,  which  is  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  westward  of  the 
bay,  in  front  of  the  town,  is — 

O  I  H  ' 

Latitude 46     11     27.6  north. 

Longitude 123    49     32     west. 

A.      m.         t. 

Or,  in  time 8     15     18.1. 

Foint  George  is  the  first  point  made  after  passing  eastward  of  Clatsop  beach.  Immediately  be- 
hind it  the  land  is  high  and  densely  wooded;  and  around  its  southern  face  opens  Young's  river. 

It  was  called  "Point  George"  by  Broughton  in  1792;  "George  Point"  by  Belcher  in  1839; 
"Young's  Point"  by  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition  in  1841;  "Smith's  Point"  by  the 
Coast  Survey,  in  the  triangulation  of  1852;  but  it  is,  we  believe,  generally  known  as  Young' s  Point. 

Tongue  Point  bears  E.  NE.  8 J  miles  from  Point  Adams,  and  NE.  J  E.,  3 J  miles  from 
Astor  Point.  *  It  is  a  high,  bold  bluflf  covered  with  trees,  and  connected  with  the  main  by  a 
moderately  low,  narrow,  strip  of  land.  As  first  made,  ofi"  the  entrance,  it  appears  like  a  low 
wooded  island.  Close  to  it  runs  the  Woody  Island  channel,  which  is  plainly  foreshadowed  in 
Belcher's  survey  of  the  river.  Between  the  last  two  points  lie  the  rival  villages  of  Upper  and 
Lower  Astoria.  The  lower  is  the  most  western,  and  on  the  location  established  by  the  Pacific 
Fur  Company  in  1811,  and  to  which  was  given  the  name  of  Astoria.  A  large  saw-mill  is  in 
operation  here,  and  a  military  post  was  established  but  abandoned  a  few  years  since.  The 
place  contains  less  than  fifty  houses,  and  at  one  time,  as  a  landing  place,  had  an  unenviable 
reputation  on  account  of  the  character  of  the  "beach  combers." 

The  name  of  the  place  was  changed  to  Fort  George  in  1813,  on  being  taken  by  the  sloop-of- 
war  Raccoon.     The  original  name  was  restored  in  1818. 

At  Upper  Astoria  is  located  the  custom-house,  ofi"  which  is  the  rendezvous  of  the  United 
States  revenue  cutter.  A  large  saw-mill  is  built  here;  and  a  •government  military  road  is  being 
opened  to  Salem,  on  the  Willamette  river.  Between  the  village  and  Tongue  Point  lies  the 
wreck  of  the  Silvie  de  Grace. 

Cape  Broughton  is  on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  N.  NW.'3|  miles  from  Tongue  Point,  and 
NE.  i  E.  5J  miles  from  Ellis  Point. 

It  was  named  by  Belcher  in  1839,  but  was  called  Gray's  Point  by  the  United  States  Exploring 
Expedition.     This  last  designation  was  also  applied  by  the  Coast  Survey  in  1852. 


104  BEPOET  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

The  head  between  Ellis  Point  and  Cape  Broughton  was  named  Chatham  Head  in  1839. 

Gray's  Bay  lies  to  the  NE.  of  Cape  Broughton,  and  was  named,  in  1792,  in  honor  of  Captain 
Gray.  • 

Young's  Bay  lies  between  the  eastern  part  of  the  Clatsop  beach  (called  Tansey  Point)  and 
Point  George.  Into  it  empty  Young's  river,  discovered,  examined,  and  named  by  Broughton; 
Lewis  and  Clarke's  river,  examined  by  them  in  1805;  and  one  or  two  small  streams  or  sloughs. 

Baker's  Bay  lies  between  Cape  Disappointment  and  Chinook  Point.  It  runs  2^  miles  to  the 
northward  of  the  cape,  and  receives  the  waters  of  the  small  streams  which  head  toward  Shoal- 
water  bay,  and  connect  with  it  by  a  small  portage.  The  western  and  largest  stream  is  the 
Wal-la-khut ;  the  eastern,  half-way  between  the  cape  and  Chinook  Point,  is  the  Wap-pa-loo- 
che. 

Two  or  three  houses  on  the  shore  of  the  bay,  and  a  saw-mill,  are  all  that  remain  of  the  set- 
tlement once  designated  as  "Pacific  City."  The  bay  was  named  in  honor  of  Captain  Baker, 
whom  Broughton  found  anchored  here  in  the  schooner  Jenny,  of  Bristol,  when  he  entered. 

The  Columbia  river  was  called  the  "  Oregon"  on  the  strength  of  the  accounts  of  Carver  in 
1766.     Much  doubt  exists  as  to  the  origin  of  the  name  last  mentioned. 

In  1775  it  was  called  "Assumption  Inlet"  by  Heceta,  but  afterwards  the  Rio  de  San  Roque, 
from  his  naming  the  northern  cape  San  Roque;  and  also  the  EnseSada  de  Heceta. 

In  1789  Meares  called  it  "Deception  Bay." 

In  1792  it  was  named  the  "  Columbia's  river"  by  Gray. 

Clarke  says  that,  in  1805,  the  Indians  knew  it  as  the  Shocatilcum,  and  another  name  obtained 
from  another  body  of  the  natives  was  Chockalilum;  the  two  being  evidently  the  same  word 
differently  pronounced;  the  accent  should  be  on  the  penult. 

When  the  name  given  by  Gray  was  first  changed  we  cannot  state.  It  was,  perhaps,  done  by 
Vancouver  or  Broughton. 

Lewis  and  Clarke,  in  noticing  the  growth  of  trees  on  the  Columbia,  mention  a  fir  near  Asto- 
ria that  was  230  feet  high,  and  120  feet  of  that  height  without  a  branch.  Its  circumference 
was  27  feet.  This  same  tree  is  doubtless  referred  to  in  the  narrative  of  the  United  States  Ex- 
ploring Expedition,  where  the  dimensions  are  given  as  follows  :  39^  feet  in  circumference  at  8 
feet  above  the  ground;  bark  11  inches  thick;  height  of  the  tree  250  feet  and  perfectly  straight. 
Visiters  used  to  be  shown  ' '  the  big  tree ' '  as  one  of  the  notable  sights  of  the  locality. 

Belcher  says  that  "the  timber  of  the  Columbia,  either  for  spars  or  plank,  cannot  be  compared 
to  that  of  higher  latitudes;  for  topmasts  and  topgallant  masts  it  is  probably  as  tough,  but 
heavier.  *         *         *         *  Probably  no  part  of  Western  America  can  produce  timber 

of  the  dimensions  grown  in  the  regions  of  the  Columbia  and  the  northern  confines  of  Califor- 
nia. Amongst  the  drift  trees,  on  the  banks  of  the  Columbia,  we  measured  one  174  feet  long 
by  20  feet  in  circumference,  and  many  150  feet  by  13  to  18.  These,  of  course,  were  washed 
from  the  banks,  and  therefore  not  the  largest,  which  grow  invariably  in  the  thickest  part  of  the 
wood."— (Vol.  1,  p.  300.) 

In  Baker's  bay,  in  1851,  we  measured  a  drift  tree  which  had  been  thrown  upon  the  beach. 
It  was  267  feet  long,  27  feet  in  circumference  with  the  bark  peeled  ofi".  and  where  broken  at 
the  small  end  20  inches  in  diameter.  Very  frequently,  when  trees  are  felled  for  cutting  into 
lumber,  the  first  30  or  40  feet  of  the  trunks  are  found  too  large  for  the  saw-mill,  and  have  to 
be  cut  off  and  left  on  the  ground. 


THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST    8UKVEY.  106 


GENERAL   COURSE  OF  THE   COLUMBIA   RIVER. 

Prom  the  entrance  to  the  mouth  of  the  Cowlitz  river  the  general  course  of  the  Columbia  is 
E.  by  N.,  and  the  distance  in  a  straight  lino  46  miles  from  the  bar,  and  by  the  windings  of  the 
river  about  62  miles.  The  Cowlitz  runs  N.NW.,  and  is  navigated  by  canoes  about  15  miles  to 
the  Cowlitz  Landing.  At  this  place  travellers  take  mules  or  horses  to  go  through  to  Puget's 
Sound,  a  trip  of  50  miles.  On  the  west  bank  of  the  Cowlitz  are  a  few  small  houses,  locally 
known  as  the  town  of  Monticello.  On  the  south  bank  of  the  Columbia,  opposite  the  Cowlitz, 
is  another  small  settlement,  called  Rainier. 

From  the  Cowlitz  the  next  course  of  the  Columbia  is  SE.  |  S.  for  27  miles  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Willamette  riveri'/^bout  IG'miles  above  the  Cowlitzy'  tba  Warrior  branch  or  slough  of  the 
river  makes  in  from  the  west  side  and  runs  around  Multnomah  island,  coming  into  the  Willa- 
mette two  miles  above  its  mouth.  The  Willamette  continues  the  same  general  course  of  the 
Columbia  for  16  miles  to  the  falls,  where  is  situated  the  town  of  "Oregon  City,"  destined  to 
become  a  place  of  importance,  on  account  of  the  extensive  water  power;  the  river  there  falling 
perpendicularly  38  or  40  feet.  Six  miles  lower  down  on  the  Willamette  is  the  rapidly  improving 
town  of  Portland,  situated  at  the  head  of  ship  navigation,  with  a  population  of  nearly  5, 000. 
The  valley  of  the  Willamette  is  well  settled,  contains  several  thriving  towns,  and  is  remarkably 
productive.  The^  coqrae-o£-ti»o  river  is  southward,  gradually  approaching  the  coast  within  25 
miles,  ia  tb»  Jatitndoof  Cnpo  Pcrpetua.  In  latitude  44°  it  runs  eastward  to  the  base  of  the 
r»nrfldfi  rnil£;n,  which  rrnrn  between  the  snow  peaks  of  Mount  Jefferson  and  Mount  McLauglilin. 

From  the  mouth  of  the  Willamette  the  general  course  of  the  Columbia  to  Fort  Walla-Walla 
is  NE.  by  E.  J  E.,  170  miles. 

Five  miles  above  the  Willamette,  on  the  north  side,  is  the  military  post  of  Fort  Vancouver, 

which,  with  the  town  of  Vancouver,  covers  part  of  the   grounds  formerly  occupied  by  the 

^Budson  Bay  Company  as  a  mercantile  station,  but  then  designated  as  Fort  Vancouver.     The 

^Hudson  Bay  Company  still  have  a  trading  station  here,  but  their  farms  and  grazing  lands  have 

been  occupied  by  settlers.     The  site  for  a  town  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  on  the  river,  and 

capitally  located  for  increasing  trade. 

About  30  miles  further  up  the  river  we  reach  the  foot  of  the  Cascades,  which  are  a  series  of 
rapids  4  miles  long,  where  the  river  bursts  through  the  eastern  part  of  the  Cascade  range  of 
mountains,  whose  basaltic  walls  rise  precipitously  over  3,000  feet  on  either  side,  presenting  a 
magnificent  sight.  Below  the  rapids  the  current  rushes  by  with  great  velocity  and  depth,  but 
small  steamboats  ply  regularly  from  Portland  and  Vancouver  to  the  foot  of  the  rapids;  thence 
passengers  are  carried  by  stages  to  the  head,  where  one  or  two  fine  steamboats  convey  them 
50  miles  to  the  Dalles.  The  Hudson  Bay  Company  carried  their  large  trading  boats  up  the 
rapids  by  a  system  called  cordelling.  Steamboats  have  gone  up  one  or  two  miles,  and,  in  one 
instance,  a  brig,  with  every  sail  set  and  a  moderate  gale  astern,  was  carried  safely  to  the  foot  of 
the  railroad,  which  runs  from  the  head  to  within  a  mile  and  a  half  of  the  lower  end.  At  each 
extremity  of  the  rapids  are  small  military  posts. 

The  snow  peaks  of  the  volcanic  Mt.  St.  Helens  and  Mt.  Hood  lie  exactly  in  line  with  the 
Cascades,  the  former  NW.  i  N.,  35  miles  distant;  the  latter  SE.  J  S.,  28  miles  distant. 

At  the  Dalles  the  river  is  contracted  between  narrow  perpendicular  walls,  and  during  freshets 
rises  100  feet  above  its  ordinary  level. 

*  A  oomiption  of  tho  Indian  Damo.     ThU  stream  i«  the  Multooraah  uf  hewit  and  Clark. 
14 


106  REPORT  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

West  of  the  Cascades  the  forests  cease,  and  above  the  Dalles  stands  the  only  tree  in  a  stretch 
of  60  miles  beyond  Walla-Walla,  where  the  river  makes  a  great  bend  to  the  northward,  in  the 
direction  of  its  source  at  the  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains. 

On  the  lower  part  of  the  Columbia  and  Willamette  many  saw-mills  have  been  erected  since 
the  gold  discovery  in  California,  and  a  large  trade  was  carried  on  in  lumber.  Between  San 
Francisco  and  Portland  a  very  large  and  increasing  general  trade  exists. 

The  weather  off  the  Columbia  entrance  is  cold  and  wet  with  occasional  thunder  storms,  but 
these  are  rare.  Vancouver  says  he  saw  several  water  spouts  off  it  in  October,  1192,  some  of 
them  were  quite  near  his  vessel. 

SHOALWATBB   BAY. 

The  bold  cliffs  of  Cape  Disappointment,  after  extending  about  three  miles  northward,  change 
suddenly  to  a  low,  broad,  sandy  beach,  running  N.  by  W.  ^  W.  18  miles,  in  nearly  a  straight 
line  to  the  southern  point  of  the  entrance  to  Shoalwater  bay.  A  mile  and  a  quarter  behind 
this  beach  lies  the  southern  arm  of  the  bay.  Its  waters  reach  within  a  mile  or  two  of  the  north 
side  of  the  cape,  and  the  portage  from  them  to  the  Wappalooche,  emptying  into  Baker's  bay, 
is  said  to  be  about  a  mile  long,  and  always  used  by  the  Indians  and  settlers.  The  peninsula 
thus  formed  is  covered  with  trees  and  a  dense  undei'growth  of  bushes.  Within  half  a  mile  of 
its  extremity  it  becomes  very  low  and  sandy,  and  has  a  covering  of  coarse  grass  but  no  trees. 
This  point  was  called  Low  Point  by  Meares  in  July,  1788.  On  the  recent  Coast  Survey  charts 
it  is  named  Leadbetter  Point.  The  Indian  designation  is  Chik-lis-ilh.  Its  appro^inate  geo- 
graphical position,  as  given  by  the  Coast  Survey,  is: 

O  /  II 

Latitude 46    36    45  north. 

Longitude 124    00    45  west. 

h.     m.      s. 

Or,  in  time 8    16    0.3.  , 

Magnetic  variation  20°  35'  east,  July,  1851,  with  a  yearly  increase  of  1'.4. 

CAPE    SHOALWATER. 

From  Leadbetter  Point  the  north  point  bears  NW.  by  N.  §  N.,  5^  miles  distant.  Half  a  mile 
of  the  point  is  low,  sandy  and  destitute  of  trees,  but  some  tolerably  high  land  covered  with 
wood  rises  immediately  behind  it,  being  the  only  elevated  ground  between  Cape  Disappoint- 
ment and  Point  Grenville  that  approaches  the  shore-line.  On  account  of  this  formation  of  the 
point  it  has  been  said  that  the  entrance  resembles  that  of  Columbia  river.  We  have  been 
unable  to  detect  any  resemblance  after  passing  near  to  it  several  times.  The  isolated  position 
of  Cape  Disappointment  and  the  seaward  face  of  its  bold  cliffs  without  trees  form  a  peculiar 
feature.  This,  with  Scarborough  Hill,  partly  bare,  lying  5  or  6  miles  east  of  it,  the  high  moun- 
tains inland,  and  in  clear  weather  the  beautiful  snow  peak  of  Mount  St.  Helens,  have  no  coun- 
terparts at  Cape  Shoalwater,  and,  without  mentioning  the  light-house,  should  remove  all  doubt 
in  regard  to  general  resemblance. 

The  point  was  named  Cape  Shoalwater  and  placed  approximately  in  latitude  46°  47'  by  Meares 
in  July,  1788.  In  1792  Vancouver  assigned  the  latitude  of  46°  40'.  It  was  viewed  from  the 
north  side  of  Cape  Disappointment  by  Lewis  and  Clarke  in  1805,  and  called  Point  Lewis,  but 
is  now  frequently  known  as  Toke  Point,  from  the  name  of  an  old  Indian  chief  living  here  in 
1854.     The  Indian  name  of  the  point  is  Quahpt-sum. 


THE   UNITBll   8TATK8   COAST    SUBVEY.  Ifff 


THE   ENTRANCE. 

There  having  been  no  Rurvey  of  Shoalwator  bay  previous  to  the  preliminary  one  of  the  Coast 
Survey  in  1862,  and  the  completion  of  it  in  1855,  it  is  impossible  to  state  what  changes  have 
taken  place.  Judging  by  the  changes  of  the  Humboldt,  Umpquah  and  Columbia  bars,  we 
should  conclude  that  similar  effects  take  place  here.  In  less  heavy  weather  than  would  cause 
the  sea  to  break  on  the  Columbia  river  bars,  it  breaks  here  \vith  fury  quite  across  the  entrance. 
This  description  applies  to  1852.  Cliarts  have  been  published  by  the  Coast  Survey  of  the 
respective  dates  already  mentioned. 

Four  miles  off  the  entrance  a  depth  of  10  fathoms  is  found,  and  when  well  off  shore  a  high 
double  peaked  mountain  shows  to  the  eastward,  well  inland;  Meares  noticed  it  and  placed  it  in 
latitude  46°  30',  quite  close  to  the  coast,  designating  it  as  Saddle  Mountain,  a  name  it  still  retains 
although  one  of  the  same  name  is  found  SE.  of  Point  Adams. 

At  the  present  time  there  are  two  channels,  denominated  from  their  position,  the  north  and 
south  ckcuuieU,  with  a'  large  shoal  called  the  middle  sands  lying  between  them,  and  partly  outside 
of  the  line  joining  the  two  points. 

The  bar  at  the  soulk  channel  has  4  fathoms  of  water  upon  it,  is  a  mile  wide,  and  lies  two  miles 
off  the  beach  south  of  Leadbetter  Point,  with  the  northernmost  trees  bearing  NE.  by  E.  Run- 
ning in  on  this  line  a  vessel  shoals  her  water  from  10  fathoms  three  miles  off  shore  to  4  fathoms 
two  miles  off ;  then  gradually  deepens  it  to  5  fathoms,  when  she  should  haul  close  up  under  the 
point  of  breakers  northward  of  her  and  about  half  a  mile  distant;  run  along  in  from  6  to  7 
fathoms  until  abreast  of  the  low  grassy  point,  when  the  course  of  the  channel  will  be  N.  by  W. 
J  W.  for  1|  mile,  with  from  8  to  10  fathoms,  hard  bottom,  its  outline  being  well  marked  by  the 
breakers  outride.  From  thence  a  course  NE.  by  N.  for  two  miles  will  lead  to  18  fathoms,  and 
over  a  mile  inside  of  the  lino  joining  Leadbetter  Point  and  Cape  Shoalwater,  the  western  trees 
on  Leadbetter  point  bearing  S.  J  E.,  3|  miles  distant.  If  the  tide  is  low,  sand  bars  and  flats 
will  show  on  both  hands,  one  directly  ahead;  the  broad  deep  channel  to  the  SE.  distinctly 
marked  by  bare  patches  on  either  side;  and  a  narrow,  deep  channel  to  the  northwest  running 
into  the  north  channel.  From  the  last  position  the  western  trees  on  Leadbetter  Point  bear 
south,  distant  4  miles.  The  greater  body  of  water  passes  through  this  channel,  and  the  current 
runs  very  strong.  In  summer,  with  a  northwester  blowing,  it  is  a  dead  beat  after  passing  the  bar, 
and  in  some  places  the  channel  is  less  than  half  a  mile  ^vide  between  the  3-fathom  curves.  Coasters 
do  not  enter  it  except  with  a  southerly  wind,  and  always  pick  out  the  channel  from  aloft.  In 
summer  they  have  a  leading  wind  out,  and  start  on  the  first  of  the  ebb. 

The  bar  at  the  north  cliannd  has  about  3^  fathoms  upon  it,  and  bears  SW.  by  S.  J  S.  three 
miles  from  the  southern  extremity  of  Cape  Shoalwater.  It  is  about  a  mile  in  extent  within  the 
3-fathom  curve. 

In  making  the  bay  from  the  southward  in  summer  work  to  the  northward  of  Cape  Shoal, 
water,  then  run  in  and  follow  the  shore  outside  of  the  breakers  in  6  or  7  fathoms,  gradually 
approaching  them  and  decreasing  the  depth  to  4J  and  4  fathoms,  when  the  southern  side  of  the 
elevated  ground  of  the  capo  bears  NE.  by  N.  J  N.  Then  head  up  as  near  that  course  as  possible, 
crossing  the  bar  in  3^  fathoms,  and  continuing  in  that  depth  for  at  least  a  mile  and  a  quarter, 
taking  care  not  to  decreaue  it  on  either  hand.  Keep  under  the  breakers  on  the  north  side  in 
from  5  to  7  fathoms,  hard  bottom,  and  increase  the  depth  to  twelve  well  inside  of  the  point, 


108  REPORT  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OP 

when  its  southern  extremity  should  bear  NW.  ^  W.,  distant  1^  mile.     If  it  is  low  water,  sand 
banks  will  show  in  diiferent  directions,  and  the  channels  will  be  tolerably  well  marked. 

The  present  invariable  practice  of  vessels  entering  is  to  seek  out  the  channel  from  the  mast 
head.     In  calm  weather  the  channels  must  be  known  or  a  pilot  employed,  if  one  is  to  be  found. 

The  north  bar  bears  NW.  by  N.  |  N.,  distant  5  miles. 

The  middle  sands  lie  between  the  two  channels.  The  southern  tail  is  SW.  1|  mile  from 
Leadbetter  Point:  runs  NW.  by  N.  §  N.  for  2^  miles;  then  N.NE.  2^  miles;  and  E.NE.  1^  mile, 
with  an  average  width  of  Ij  mile.     One  mile  outside  of  it  soundings  are  found  in  7  fathoms. 

This  bay,  as  its  name  implies,  is  so  full  of  shoals  that  at  low  tides  about  one-half  of  its  area 
is  laid  bare.  Good  but  narrow  channels  are  found  thoughout  its  extent,  but  no  direction  can 
be  given  for  running  them.  Without  a  knowledge  of  them,  or  without  a  pilot,  follow  them 
only  at  low  water.  The  currents  then  run  with  great  velocity,  and  it  is  very  difficult  and 
frequently  impossible  to  keep  a  course  against  them.  The  arm  stretching  southward  toward 
Baker's  bay  is  15  miles  long  from  Leadbetter  Point,  with  an  average  width  of  not  less  than  S^; 
whilst  the  upper  portion  stretches  to  the  NE.  for  9  miles  to  the  north  of  the  Whilapah  river, 
reckoning  from  the  middle  of  the  line  joining  Cape  Shoalwater  and  Leadbetter  Point. 

The  principal  stream  emptying  into  the  bay  is  the  Whil-a-pah,  at  its  northeast  part.  At 
about  9  miles  from  Cape  Shoalwater  it  is  less  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide,  with  low  swampy 
banks  and  steep  bluffs  on  each  side  about  a  mile  and  a  half  apart. 

The  mouth  of  the  Fcdux,  or  Copalux,  lies  5  miles  NE.  ^  E.  from  Leadbetter  Point.  It  is 
half  a  mile  wide  at  its  mouth ;  contracts  very  much  in  two  miles,  and  is  bordered,  by  marshes 
with  numerous  sloughs  running  through  them. 

The  Nasal  enters  about  11  miles  south  from  the  Palux,  and  abreast  of  the  middle  of  Long 
island.  It  has  over  20  feet  water  at  its  mouth,  with  bluff  banks  for  some  distance  until  it 
begins  to  expand,  when  it  is  bordered  by  flats. 

Several  streams  open  from  the  north  side  of  the  bay.  One  of  these,  the  Necomanche,  near 
the  Whilapah,  has  6  feet  in  the  main  channel,  and  shows  l^  mile  wide  at  high  tide. 

There  are  three  islands  in  the  bay.  Fine  island,  about  1^  mile  NW.  by  N.  off  the  mouth  of 
the  Palux,  is  a  small  sand  islet  of  only  four  or  five  acres  in  extent,  and  occupied  by  oystermen. 
It  is  near  the  channel  and  oyster  beds,  which  stretch  for  a  couple  of  miles  to  the  N.NE.  of  it. 
The  north  end  of  Long  island  is  8  miles  from  Leadbetter  Point.  This  island  runs  irregularly 
about  SE.  for  6  miles,  and  has  an  average  width  of  l^  mile.  It  is  covered  with  a  dense  forest 
of  fir  and  undergrowth.  One  mile  S.  SE.  of  Long  island  is  a  very  small  islet  called  Boiuid 
island,  of  only  a  few  acres  in  extent,  covered  witlj  wood  and  bushes.  The  shores  of  the  bay, 
except  on  the  peninsula,  are  mostly  composed  of  perpendicular  cliifs  of  a  sandy  clay,  in  which 
are  strata  of  recent  fossil  shells  and  the  remains  of  trees.  Where  the  faces  of  the  cliffs  are 
not  washed  by  the  waters  of  the  bay  they  slope  gently  and  have  a  small  grassy  shore  at  their 
base. 

NE.  I  N.,  distant  6  miles  from  Leadbetter  Point,  is  a  sharp  narrow  cliff,  60  feet  high,  making 
out  into  the  bay,  which  is  wearing  it  away,  and  has  exposed  many  large  basaltic  boulders. 
No  other  place  on  the  bay  presents  this  geological  feature. 

The  peninsula  is  a  long,  flat,  marshy,  and  sandy  plain,  elevated  but  a  few  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea,  and  covered,  like  the  entire  surface  of  this  country,  with  a  dense  growth  of  gigantic 
forest  trees,  principally  spruce,  fir,  and  cedar,  with  a  few  specimens  of  maple,  ash,  and  black 
alder.     The  spruce  frequently  attains  a  diameter  of  8  feet. 


THE  UNITED   STATES   COAST  SURVEY.  109 

Tho  shoals  are  covered  with  shell  fish,  among  which  the  oyster  is  the  most  abundant,  and 
the  principal  article  of  export.  They  are  small  and  have  a  coppery  taste.  Codiitih  and  halibut 
abound;  sturgeon,  said  to  be  of  good  quality,  are  plenty;  and  salmon  of  several  varieties  and 
excellent  flavor  exist  in  infinite  numbers.  In  spring  vast  shoals  of  a  small  herring  enter  the 
bay.  In  winter  wild  fowl  are  innumerable,  but  these  have  been  made  shy  by  the  bad  sliooting 
of  the  Indians.  Black  and  white  swan,  geese,  mallards,  canvass  backs,  &c.,  always  reward  the 
experienced  sportsman. 

The  yearly  shipment  of  oysters  is  a(>out  30, 000  bushels,  and  of  piles  and  spars  about  30, 000 
feet.  The  average  valuation  of  exports  is  $120,000.  The  number  of  vessels  entering  yearly 
is  about  25,  nearly  all  of  which  are  schooners,  counting  an  aggregate  of  2,500  tons.  In  1855 
the  population  on  tho  bay  was  190  males  and  60  females. 

This  bay  was  discovered  by  Lieut.  John  Meares,  July  5,  1788,  in  the  Felice,  when  proceeding 
in  search  of  the  Rio  de  San  Roque  of  Heceta.  Ho  approached  it  until  the  water  shoaled  to  8 
fathoms,  when  the  breakers  ahead  warned  him  to  haul  oflF.  "From  the  mast-head  it  was 
observed  that  this  bay  extended  a  considerable  way  inland,  spreading  into  several  arms  or 
branches  to  the  northward  and  eastward,  and  the  mountainous  land  behind  it  was  at  a  great 
distance  from  us."  He  saw  "what  appeared  a  narrow  entrance  at  the  northwest  part  of  the 
bay,"  but  it  was  too  remote  for  him  to  discover  whether  it  really  was  so  or  only  low  land. 
"From  under  the  [low]  point  a  canoe  came  out,  containing  a  man  and  boy,"  &c.  Unsettled 
weather  prevented  his  sending  in  the  long  boat  to  sound  near  the  shoals,  in  order  to  discover 
whether  there  was  any  channel.     He  called  it  Shoalwater  bay. 

Vancouver  endeavored  to  enter  in  1792,  but,  as  it  was  breaking  across  the  whole  entrance, 
he  considered  it  inaccessible  to  his  vessels.  He  says  "the  sandy  beach  was  bordered  by 
breakers  extending  three  or  four  miles  into  the  sea,  and  seemed  to  be  completely  inaccessible 
until  4  p.  m.,  when  the  appearance  of  a  tolerably  good  bay  presented  itself,"  and  the  point  to 
the  north  "somewhat  more  elevated  than  the  rest  of  the  coast,"  and  in  latitude  46°  40'. 

It  is  asserted  by  settlers  here  that  boats,  canoes,  Ac,  which  have  broken  adrift  and  gone 
out  of  the  bay,  have,  in  every  instance,  been  found  on  the  beach  north  of  the  entrance,  and 
generally  between  it  and  Gray's  harbor. 

The  light-liouse  at  Cape  Shoalwater,  at  the  north  point  of  the  entrance  to  Shoalwater  bay,  is  a 
structure  consisting  of  a  keeper*  s  dwelling,  with  a  tower  rising  through  it  and  surmounted  by 
an  iron  lantern,  painted  red.     Its  height  is  41J  feet  above  the  ground  and  about  87  feet  above 
the  mean  level  of  the  sea.     The  dwelling  and  tower  arc  plastered  and  whitewashed,  and  situated 
about  a  mile  from  the  extremity  of  the  cape.     The  illuminating  apparatus  is  of  the  fourth  order 
of  Fresnel,  shows  a  Jixed  white  light  varied  by  flashes,  and  should  be  seen  from  a  height  of — 
10  feet  at  a  distance  of  14^  miles. 
20  feet  at  a  distance  of  16  miles. 
30  feet  at  a  distance  of  17  miles. 

It  was  first  exhibited  on  the  1st  of  October,  1858,  and  shows  from  sunset  to  sunrise.  The 
approximate  geographical  position  of  the  light,  as  determined  by  the  Coast  Survey,  is  : 

o        /        /' 

Latitude 46  44  ll^orth. 

Longitude 124  02  24  west. 

k.    m.     ». 
Or,  in  time 8  16  09.6. 


110  REPORT  OP  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 


gbay's  habbob. 


From  Cape  Shoalwater  a  fine,  hard,  low  sand  beach  runs  N.NW.,  nearly  straight,  13  miles  to 
Point  Hanson,  the  southern  point  of  the  entrance  to  Gray's  harbor.  The  country  behind  this 
beach  is  low,  flat,  and  densely  covered  with  trees.  Near  the  extremity  of  the  point  is  a  slight 
rise  in  the  ground. 

In  giving  a  description  of  the  bay  we  can  state  nothing  from  personal  experience.  The  only 
preliminary  surveys  made  are  those  of  Vancouver's  expedition  in  1792,  and  of  the  United  States 
Exploring  Expedition  in  1841.  No  survey  has  yet  been  made  by  the  Coast  Survey,  except  the 
approximate  determination  of  the  entrance  in  the  reconnaissance  of  1852. 

From  the  southern  point  of  the  entrance  Point  Broivn,  on  the  north  side,  bears  NW.  |  W., 
nearly  2j  miles  distant.  Inside  of  these  points  the  bay  spreads  out  suddenly,  and  contracts  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Chehalis  river.  This  gives  it  a  heart-shaped  or  triangular  form,  with  the  base 
of  the  triangle  towards  the  Pacific,  and  the  apex  at  the  Chehalis.  The  shores  are  low,  except 
in  two  places,  and  the  whole  northern  portion  of  the  bay  is  an  extensive  flat,  bare  at  low  water. 

Point  Brown  is  the  commencement  of  a  large  sand  waste,  stretching  towards  the  Copalis 
river.  It  is  covered  with  coarse  beach  grass  and  stunted  lupin  bushes,  and  is  cut  up  with  the 
tracks  of  bears,  cougars,  elk,  wolves,  &c.  The  peninsula  of  Point  Brown  extends  NW.  by  N. 
for  8  miles,  with  an  average  width  of  2^  miles. 

At  the  time  of  Whidbey's  survey,  under  the  orders  of  Vancouver,  a  bar  existed  off  the 
entrance,  having  the  following  position :  From  Point  Hanson,  SW.  byW.  ^  W.,  3^  miles  distant, 
and  from  Point  Brown,  SW.  by  S.  j  S. ,  4  miles  distant.  He  does  not  give  the  depth  of  water 
on  the  bar  in  his  chart,  but  in  the  narrative  states  it  to  be  3  fathoms.  From  this  bar  the 
channel  was  a  mile  wide,  and  straight  to  the  entrance  between  the  points;  was  well  marked  by 
the  breakers;  had  from  4  to  10  fathoms  in  it  until  nearly  abreast  of  the  points,  where  it  was 
contracted  to  half  a  mile  and  the  depth  increased  to  14  fathoms.  Then  it  opened  suddenly  to 
both  points  with  from  3  to  6  fathoms  between  them.  The  course  in,  over  the  bar  and  through 
mid-channel,  was  NE.  ^  N.,  for  3|-  miles  to  between  the  points,  with  two  low  sand  islands  in 
range  on  the  course,  and  6^  miles  from  the  bar.  A  narrow  channel  existed  on  either  side  of 
these  islands  towards  the  Chehalis;  the  southern  channel  having  from  3  to  4  fathoms,  and  that 
on  the  north  side  5  or  6. 

In  the  indentation  SE.  of  Point  Hanson  lay  an  island  with  a  channel  on  either  side,  but  that 
on  the  west  was  the  better.  Both  led  to  the  mouth  of  a  small  stream  coming  in  from  the  east. 
He  also  gives  a  4-fathom  channel  on  the  east  side  of  Point  Brown  peninsula,  and  surveyed  two 
miles  up. 

From  Point  Brown  he  states  Point  New  to  be  N.  65°  E.,  (true,)  4^  miles  distant,  and  marks 
the  point  on  the  chart  with  two  rocks  off  it;  but  it  is  not  on  the  proper  bearing  mentioned  in 
the  narrative,  unless  he  took  his  bearing  from  the  astronomical  station.  That  part  of  the  bay 
shore  near  Point  New  is  composed  of  clifife  for  2  or  3  miles. 

The  mouth  of  the  Chehalis,  which  he  does  not  show,  is  placed  NE.  by  E.  ^  B.,  8^  miles  from 
Point  Brown,  the  line  passing  over  the  centre  of  the  island  which  lies  in  the  middle  of  the  bay, 
and  is  2^  miles  from  the  fl)int. 

That  the  bar  and  general  features  of  the  sands  have  changed  much  since  that  time  we  pro- 
pose to  show  from  an  examination  of  a  reduced  copy  of  the  survey  by  the  United  States 
Exploring  Expedition  in  1841.     Here  we  find  no  island  in  the  middle  of  the  bay,  nor  any  east 


TOE   OIIITED   STATES  COAST   SURVEY,  111 

of  Point  Efjinson,  bat  n  large  one  1}  mile  long  by  half  a  mile  wide  in  the  middle  of  the  entrance, 
and  connected  by  a  shoal  with  Point  Brown,  whilst  the  channel  tiien  ran  between  this  island 
and  the  southern  point.  The  bar  bore  SW.  2J  miles  from  Point  Brown,  and  west  2^  miles  from 
Point  Hanson,  with  a  depth  of  about  3  fathoms.  This  position  shows  that  the  bar  had  moved 
to  the  N.  by  E.  no  less  than  two  miles. 

From  Point  Brown  a  small  bluff  on  the  cast  side  of  the  bay  hears  E.  J  N.,  6 J  miles  distant, 
with  a  high  hill  behind  it  in  range.  From  Point  Hanson  this  bluff  bears  E.NE.,  5|  miles  distant. 
From  Point  Brown  the  month  of  the  Ghehalis  bears  NE.  by  E.  |  E.,  distant  12  miles,  differing 
considerably  from  Whidbey's  determination;  and  Point  New,  from  the  same  point,  bears  NB. 
J  N.,  distant  5.J  miles. 

■  The  next  survey  will  prove  what  recent  changes  have  taken  place,  and  whether  the  directions 
of  one  season  can  be  relied  upon  for  the  next.  We  have  been  off  the  bar  but  never  saw  a 
fair  chance  for  entering.  According  to  the  charts  of  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition 
the  course  for  crossing  it  was  to  bring  Point  Hanson  to  bear  east  and  run  for  it,  the  channel 
being  straight. 

In  the  winter  of  1852-53  the  brig  Willimantic  was  driven  ashore  upon  the  island  at  the 
entrance,  having  mistaken  this  for  Shoalwater  bay.  After  vainly  attempting  to  launch  her 
toward  the  sea  she  was  dragged  across  the  island  and  launched  on  the  bay  side.  Then  the 
island  was  a  mere  bank  of  sand,  bare  at  all  tides,  and  covered  with  logs  and  drift  wood. 

It  is  stated  that  close  under  Point  Brown  a  swash  channel  exists,  which  the  Indians  always 
use  to  save  crossing  the  bar. 

The  bay  was  discovered  by  Gray  in  May,  1792,  and  named  Bulfinch  harbor,  after  one  of  the 
owners  of  his  vessel.     He  placed  it  in  latitude  46°  58'  north. 

It  was  surveyed  by  Lieutenant  Whidbey,  in  the  storeship  Dasdalus,  October,  1792,  under  the 
directions  of  Vancouver.  He  first  sent  in  his  boats,  and  then  crossed  the  bar  in  three  fathoms, 
with  the  ebb  current  running  so  strong  that,  although  the  ship  was  making  nearly  five  knot*  an 
hour,  little  actual  progress  was  made.  He  applied  the  present  name,  Gray's  harbor,  in  com- 
pliment to  its  discoverer.  On  some  old  maps  we  have  found  it  called  Whidbey's  harbor.  Ho 
named  Point  Hanson  after  the  commander  of  the  Dajdalus,  and  the  northern  point  ho  called 
Point  Brown,  placing  it  in  latitude  46°  59J'  north. 

The  southern  point  was  called  Point  Chickeeles,  and  the  same  name  was  applied  to  the  river. 

In  the  recent  maps  of  the  Coast  Survey,  Point  Brown  is  plotted  in  latitude  46°  57',  longitude 
124°  04',  and  the  southern  is  termed  Point  Harrison.  Among  the  few  settlers  in  this  region  it 
is  called  Point  Armstrong. 

The  name  of  the  river  is  derived  from  the  Indian  tribe  inhabiting  the  bay  and  river.  They 
pronounce  it  Tche-ha-lis.    • 

The  country  behind  the  bay  is  low  and  flat,  receiving  the  waters  of  the  Chehalis  from  the 
eastward.  This  river  is  said  to  be  navigable  for  boats  for  a  distance  of  60  miles,  and  to  drain 
a  timbered,  well  watered  countrj',  abounding  in  many  small  prairies. 

For  January,  1859,  the  line  of  eqiud  magnetic  variation  of  21°  east  crosses  the  coast  line  in 
latitude  47°  08',  and  in  latitude  46°  58'  it  crosses  the  125°  of  longitude.  This  line  moves 
annually  a  mile  and  a  half  to  the  southward. 

OOPALIS   BIVEB. 

We  know  nothing  of  this  stream  except  from  settlers  who  have  passed  it  in  travelling  along 
the  shore. 


112  REPORT   OF   THE   SUPERINTENDENT   OF 

From  Point  Brown  the  shore-line  trends  about  NW.  by  "W.  for  5  miles;  then  N.  by  W.  ^  W. 
for  the  same  distance  to  the  mouth  of  the  Gopalis.  The  barren  waste  of  Point  Brown  con- 
tinues along  this  shore,  commencing  with  a  width  of  nearly  two  miles,  stretching  from  the 
ocean  to  a  dense  forest  of  fir,  and  growing  narrower  as  it  approaches  the  Copalis,  where  the 
timber  comes  to^the  water's  edge. 

This  stream  is  about  100  yards  wide,  but  the  mouth  is  almost  closed  by  a  bar.  Upon  its 
banks  reside  the  Copalis  tribe  of  Indians,  from  whom  the  river  derives  its  name.  Like  all  the 
streams  on  this  coast  it  abounds  in  salmon,  but  those  caught  here  are  celebrated  for  their  succu- 
lent richness  of  flavor.  Their  general  appearance  is  similar  to  those  of  the  Columbia  river, 
but  this  variety  rarely  exceeds  two  feet  in  length.     They  weigh  from  five  to  ten  pounds. 

In  or  about  October,  1854,  there  was  discovered,  one  mile  north  of  the  Copalis,  the  whole 
stern  frame  of  the  propeller  General  Warren,  which  had  been  wrecked  on  Clatsop  spit,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia  river,  more  than  two  years  previously,  having  thus  been  carried  by 
currents  at  least  60  miles  from  its  original  position.  When  the  hydrographic  survey  of  the 
entrance  to  the  Columbia  was  made  by  the  Coast  Survey  parties  in  1852  this  wreck  was  found 
and  its  position  determined.  From  Cape  Disappointment  it  bore  SE.  by  E.,  almost  4  miles 
distant,  and  was  consequently  little  more  than  a  mile  from  Point  Adams.  It  then  rested  on 
the  north  edge  of  the  Clatsop  spit.  This  shows  a  direction  of  the  current  corroborating 
Vancouver's  account  when  anchored  off  Destruction  island. 

POINT   GRENVILLE. 

From  the  Copalis  to  this  point  the  shore  runs  NW.  ^  N.  about  16  miles,  and  continues  low, 
nearly  straight,  and  bordered  by  sand  beach,  which  changes  to  shingle,  disposed  in  long  rows 
parallel  to  the  coast.  These  ridges  of  shingle  dam  the  mouths  of  many  small  streams  and 
form  ponds,  abounding  in  trout,  and  well  stocked  with  beaver  and  otter,  according  to  the 
accounts  of  the  Indians.  The  high  land  also  approaches  much  nearer  the  beach  and  forms 
sandstone  cliffs,  with  rocky  ledges  projecting  into  the  ocean. 

Point  Grenville  is  a  bluff,  rocky  promontory,  stretching  westward  about  a  mile,  and  then 
southward  about  a  quarter,  forming  a  very  contracted  and  exposed  roadstead;  with  the 
3-fathom  curve  extending  half  a  mile  from  the  beach,  compelling  vessels,  except  of  very  light 
draught,  to  anchor  so  far  out  that  the  point  and  the  rocks  off  it  afford  but  little  protection  from 
the  northwest  winds.  It  is  useless  during  the  winter  months.  The  point  has  high  hills  lying 
behind  it,  and  many  rocks  immediately  off  it;  two  of  these,  about  75  feet  high,  lie  E.  by  S. 
400  yards  distant;  another  lies  SW.  |  S.  half  a  mile  distant.  This,  we  believe,  is  the  one  which 
shows  a  large  perforation  through  it  when  viewed  from  the  southeast  or  northwest.  It  has  5 
and  6  fathoms  all  around  it.  Others  stretch  along  the  coast  to  the  northwest,  one  of  them 
showing  from  the  south  as  a  leg-of-mutton  sail.  The  bluff  itself  is  composed  of  fine  sandstone, 
i  s  very  steep,  and  may  be  ascended  by  a  difScult  trail,  which  is  used  by  the  Indians.  It  is  said 
to  be  a  great  resort  for  sea  otters,  which  are  hunted  by  the  natives. 

Its  approximate  geographical  position  is: 

o      / 

Latitude 47  20  north. 

Longitude 124  14  west. 

h.    m.     g. 

Or,  in  time  8  16  56 


THE   UNITED   STATES  COAST   SURVET.  113 

Prom  Cape  Disappointment  light  it  bears  NW.  by  N.  |  N.  distant  62  miles,  and  from  the 
cape  soundings  may  be  hud  in  from  8  to  15  fathoms,  3  or  4  miles  from  the  shore. 

This  point  is  stiid  to  bo  the  Panta  de  Martires  of  Heceta  and  Bodega,  because  in  latitude 
41°  20'  seven  of  the  crew  of  Bodega's  vessel,  the  Sefiora,  were  massacred  by  the  natives. 

It  received  its  present  name  in  1792,  from  Vancouver,  who  placed  it  in  latitude  47°  22',  and 
describes  as  lying  off  it  "three  rocky  islets,  one  of  which,  like  that  at  Cape  Lookout,  is 
perforated."  ^ 

North  of  Gronville  to  Cape  Flattery  the  shore  is  bold  and  rocky,  with  occasional  short 
reaches  of  sand  beach.  The  timber  comes  down  to  the  water;  moderately  high  hills  approach 
the  coast,  through  which  empty  numerous  small  streams,  whilst  the  irregular  Olympus  range 
rises  far  in  the  interior.  In  winter  these  mountains  are  covered  with  snow,  which  lies  in  the 
gorges  and  valleys  nearly  the  whole  summer.  Mount  Olympus  is  the  highest  peak  of  the  range. 
It  attains  an  elevation  of  8,138  feet,  according  to  determinations  made  in  1841,  which  also 
place  it  in  latitude  47°  45'  N.  and  longitude  1223  37/  "w^ 

It  is  said  to  have  been  first  seen  by  Perez,  in  1774,  who  placed  it  in  47°  47'  N.,  and  called 
it  La  Sierra  Santa  Rosalia,  but  the  account  of  his  voyage  was  not  published  until  many  years 
after  that  date. 

It  was  next  described  by  Meares,  in  1788,  and  placed  in  latitude  47°  10',  the  error  arising 
from  it«  bearing,  and  he  sapposing  it  much  nearer  the  coast-line  than  it  actually  is.  In  his 
sketch  it  is  marked  quite  close  to  the  shore,  in  latitude  47°  15'  N.  He  called  it  Mount 
Olympus,  the  only  name  bjr  which  it  is  now  known. 

In  1792  Vancouver  determined  its  position  approximately,  and  gave  the  latitude  as 
47°  50'  N. 

Que-m-iUt  River. — The  mouth  of  this  small  stream  is  between  three  and  four  miles  NW.  by 
W.  from  Point  Grenville,  and  is  almost  closed  by  the  shingle  and  gravel  thrown  up  by  the 
surf,  which  leave,  however,  a  contracted  opening  for  the  passage  of  canoes  in  calm  weather. 
The  closing  of  the  entrance  has  so  dammed  the  river  as  to  form  a  small  lake  inside,  upon  the 
banks  of  which  is  situat«d  a  village  of  the  Queniults,  a  race  of  Indians  hostile  to  all  other 
tribes.  Combined  with  others  to  the  northward  they  have  ever  been  notorious  for  their 
hostility  and  vindictiveness  to  the  whites.  Several  Spanish,  English,  and  Russian  vessels  and 
their  crews  were,  in  former  times,  taken  and  destroyed.  Hence  we  meet  with  the  names 
Destruction  Island,  Isla  de  Dolores,  Punta  de  Martires,  Ac,  in  this  immediate  vicinity.  The 
river  is  said  to  head  in  a  lake  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains. 

The  name  of  this  river  is  usually  known  by  the  old  settlers  as  Qne-noith,  but  the  Indians  are 
said  to  pronounce  it  as  if  spelled  Qufe-ni-ult,  accenting  the  first  syllable  strongly,  and  the  last 
so  softly  that  many  persons  consider  they  call  themselves  simply  Que-nai.  A  tribe  still  further 
north  is  called  the  Que-nait'-sath. 

These  Indians,  when  travelling  by  canoes  along  the  low  sandy  beach  south  of  Point  Grenville, 
push  out  into  the  rollers,  keep  between  the  line  of  two  seas  that  have  broken,  and  pole  the 
canoe  through  the  snrf.  This  peculiar  mode  is  rather  apt  to  excite  the  fears  of  those  ignorant 
of  what  a  canoe  can  be  made  to  do  when  skilfully  handled. 

For  four  miles  above  the  Quoniult  the  coast  trends  in  the  same  direction,  NW.  by  W.,  is 

composed  of  sandstone  cliffs,  and  bounded  by  many  precipitous  rocks,  the  height  and  directiou 

of  which  are  generally  that  of  the  cliff.     In  the  Coast  Survey  reconnaissance  of  1852,  one  is 

placed  2J  miles  off  shore  in  latitude  47°  27',  and  the  vessel's  track  is  laid  down  inside  of  it.     A 

15 


114  REPORT  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

great  many  large  rocky  islets  lie  close  in  shore  in  this  vicinity,  but  northward  the  coast  is 
nearly  clear  to  Destruction  island.  It  makes  a  slight  curve  eastward,  and  alternates  with  bold 
yellow  cliifs  and  low  shores. 

DESTRUCTION  ISLAND. 

This  island  is  the  only  one  found  deserving  the  appellation  after  leaving  the  Farallones.  It 
is  about  150  feet  hi^,  quite  flat  on  the  top,  covered  with  grass  but  destitute  of  trees,  and  has 
high  perpendicular  sides  of  the  same  height  as  the  cliffs  on  the  main.  It  is  said  that  there  are 
some  remarkable  perforations  through  a  rock  near  it,  but  these  are,  doubtless,  only  seen  in 
particular  directions,  for,  in  passing  close  to  it,  we  have  never  noticed  them.  On  the  eastern 
end  were  formerly  some  rude  Indian  huts.  In  Vancouver's'time  he  found  two  or  three  dwarf 
trees  at  either  end. 

In  running  along  the  coast,  10  miles  off,  it  is  very  difficult  to  make  out  this  island,  because 
being  within  1^  mile  of  the  main  it  is  projected  against  the  coast  cliffs  and  cannot  be  distin- 
guished from  them  until  close  upon  it.  It  is  narrow,  but  about  1^  mile  long  in  a  N.NW.  direc- 
tion running  parallel  with  the  coast;  has  rocks  for  a  mile  off  its  southern  end.  A  reef  and  sand 
bank  is  represented  as  stretching  thence  W.  NW.  3  miles  to  broken  water,  and  from  there 
running  nearly  straight  to  the  northern  end.  A  detailed  examination  of  this  locality  might 
prove  that  good  refuge  could  be  had  under  the  island  during  heavy  southeast  and  southwest 
weather. 

Between  it  and  the  main  the  soundings  range  from  7  to  12  fathoms,  and  to  the  northward 
from  10  to  14.  -  ■* 

The  approximate  geographical  position  of  the  north  end  is : 

•  .  o        / 

Latitude 47     41  north. 

Longitude 124     25  west. 

From  Cape  Disappointment  it  bears  NW.  by  N.  84  miles. 

This  island  is  called  Isla  de  Dolores  upon  old  Spanish  maps.  It  received  its  present  name, 
by  which  it  is  only  known  on  the  coast,  in  1787,  from  Captain  Berkely,  who  sent  a  long-boat 
from  King  George's  Sound  to  explore  as  far  south  as  latitude  47°.  The  crew  of  a  smaller  boat 
entered  a  shallow  river  and  rowed  up  some  distance,  where  they  were  attacked  and  murdered 
by  the  Indians. 

In  April,  1792,  while  Vancouver  was  at  anchor  in  21  fathoms,  3^  miles  S.SW.  of  this  island, 
he  ' '  had  calms,  and  found  a  constant  current,  without  intermission,  setting  in  the  line  of  the 
coast  to  the  northward."  After  passing  Cape  Orford  he  had  been  regularly  thus  affected,  and 
carried  to  the  north  10  to  12  miles  per  day  further  than  was  expected.  He  gives  the  latitude 
of  the  island  as  47°  37'  north. 

W.  by  N.,  distant  16  miles  from  Point  Grenville,  we  discovered,  in  June,  1855,  a  bank 
having  15  fathoms  upon  it,  with  very  soft  mud  bottom;  at  21  miles  distance,  17  fathoms;  and 
at  29  miles,  36  fathoms;  and  3  miles  S.SE.  of  the  first  position  we  struck  16^  fathoms,  with 
the  same  bottom,  in  all  the  soundings;  but  had  not  time  to  make  an  extended  examination.  In 
April,  1856,  we  found  45  fathoms  in  latitude  46°  54'  N.,  longitude  125°  03'  W.,  being  16  miles 
broad  off  shore.  The  soundings  of  17,  18,  and  19  fathoms,  one  mile  from  shore,  would  indicate 
a  greater  depth  than  we  obtained.     Vancouver  has  50  fathoms  inside  of  our  first  soundings. 

From  Destruction  island  northward  the  shore  is  composed  of  cliffs  which  form  a  regular 


THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST   SURVEY.  115 

curve  to  a  point  bearing  NW.  J  W.  from  the  nortli  end  of  the  island,  and  11  miles  distant; 
thence  the  shore  runs  nearly  straight  on  that  course  for  10  miles  to  two  high  bluffs  and  well 
marked  rocks,  sUmding  a  mile  from  shore.  The  outer  one  is  bold  and  covered  with  tall 
trees,  but  the  inner  one  is  bare.  They  are  in  latitude  47°  58',  longitude  124°  40'.  Many 
others,  but  smaller,  lie.  inside  of  them,  and  19  fathoms  are  found  close  outside.  Along  this 
stretoh  the  shore  is  irregular  and  bluff  with  many  high  rocky  islets  off  it.  A  stream  opens 
about  midway  in  the  stretch. 

In  the  indentation  northward  of  Destruction  island,  and  about  4  miles  from  it,  empties  a 
amall  stream,  which  we  believe  is  called  Hooch  by  the  Indians.  .  . 

PLATTEBT    BOCKS. 

From  the  two  rocks  just  mentioned  to  Cape  Flattery,  in  48°  23',  the  course  is  almost  N.NW., 
passing  through  a  group  of  high,  well  marked,  rocky  islets,  in  latitude  48°  12'  N.,  called  the 
Flattery  Rocks.  Before  reaching  these  the  coast  line  curves  about  a  mile  eastward,  with  a  bluff 
shore  nearly  free  from  rocks  for  about  8  miles,  when  a  large  white  rock  half  a  mile  out  looms  up 
prominently,  and  is  distinctly  seen  against  the  main  land. 

Flattery  Rocks  extend  between  two  and  three  miles  from  shore;  the  outer  ledge  is  awash 
with  one  islet  in  it,  and  the  track  of  the  coast  surveying  steamer  is  laid  down  inside  of  it,  with 
soundings  in  9  to  20  fathoms.  High  abrupt  timbered  islets  lie  inside,  with  their  ocean  faces 
nearly  perpendicular,  about  150  feet  high,  and  sloping  landward.  Where  destitute  of  trees, 
these  are  covered  with  grass,  bushes,  Ac.     The  latitude  of  the  rocks  is  48°  12'  north. 

In  March  1778,  Cook,  having  been  driven  seaward  by  heavy  gales  off  Cape  Perpetua,  made  the 
land  about  the  latitude  of  47°  35',  and  4  leagues  from  shore,  as  he  says,  when  he  was  in  hopes 
of  finding  a  harbor  to  the  northward  under  a  small  round  hill  which  appeared  to  be  an  island, 
but  on  approaching  it  he  became  almost  convinced  that  the  opening  was  closed  by  low  lands, 
and  being  thus  disappointed,  he  named  the  point  of  land  to  the  north  o4  it  Cape  Flattery,  and 
placed  it  in  latitude  48°  15'  N.  On  recent  English  charts  the  cape  is  placed  in  the  position  of 
the  Flattery  Rocks,  although  Vancouver  adopted  the  present  usage  on  this  coast.  From  an 
examination  of  Cook's  account,  with  a  knowledge  of  the  coast  and  the  currents  here,  we  are 
satisfied  that  he  was  further  north  than  he  estimated  on  the  morning  of  March  22,  for  he  says 
the  small  round  hill  like  an  island  bore  N.  |  B.,  (true,)  distant  6  or  7  leagues,  while  the  coast 
extended  from  N.  to  SE.,  (true.)  These  facts  convince  us  that  his  position  was  in  latitude 
47°  50',  longitude  124°  46';  from  this  situation  the  Flattery  Rocks  are  distant  7  leagues,  bearing 
N.  I  E.,  (true;)  the  extremity  of  Cape  Flattery  bearing  nearly  N.,  (true;)  the  distance  to  the 
nearest  point  of  land  a  little  more  than  3  leagues;  and  the  coast  northward  of  Point  Qrenville 
bearing  SE.,  (true.)  The  point  of  land  northward  of  the  Flattery  Rocks  was,  therefore,  his 
Cape  Flattery,  and  his  estimated  latitude  of  it  8  miles  too  small.  Before  next  day  he  had  a 
very  hard  gale  from  the  SW.,  accompanied  with  rain,  and  he  did  not  see  land  again  until  ho 
reached  latitude  49J°.  He  arrived  at  the  conclusion  that  between  47°  ao^  48°  there  existed 
no  inlet,  as  had  been  asserted. 

From  Flattery  Rocks  wo  find  a  high  rocky  coast,  bordered  by  outlying  rocks  for  8  miles,  when 
a  low  sand  beach  occurs,  receiving  a  small  stream  which  runs  E.NE.  and  finally  north,  behind 
the  mountain  constituting  Cape  Flattery,  to  within  200  yards  of  the  beach  in  Ne6-ah  bay.  A 
rise  of  20  or  30  feet  of  the  sea  would  make  Cape  Flattery  an  island,  extending  6  miles  (W.NW.) 


116  REPORT  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

by  3  miles  in  breadth.      This  creek  is  used  by  the  outer  coast  Indians  during  the  prevalence  of 
heavy  winter  gales,  when  the  passage  outside  the  cape  would  be  impracticable. 

From  Point  Grenville  to  Cape  Flattery  the  hills  rising  from  the  coast  are  about  2, 000  feet 
high,  densely  covered  with  trees,  and  cut  up  by  innumerable  valleys.  The  shore  is  inhabited 
by  numerous  tribes  of  Indians,  accustomed  to  war  and  bitterly  hostile  to  the  whites.  They  are 
far  superior  to  the  Indians  found  along  the  southern  coast.  Their  villages  are  heavily  stockaded, 
and  the  houses  made  of  cedar  boards,  which  they  have  cut  with  great  industry  from  the  tree. 
We  have  measured  and  found  some  of  these  boards  to  be  over  4  feet  wide  and  20  feet  long;  the 
outside  edges  being  about  an  inch  thick  and  three  inches  in  the  middle.  Their  houses  are  very 
large  and  partitioned  off  into  stalls  for  each  family.  The  numerous  streams  emptying  upon  the 
coast  afford  them  a  never  failing  supply  of  the  finest  salmon;  and  to  obtain  means  of  barter 
with  white  traders  they  fearlessly  attack  and  capture  the  different  species  of  whale  on  the  coast. 

•  TATOOSH   ISLAND. 

This  island  lies  W.NW.  half  a  mile  from  the  point  of  Cape  Flattery.  It  is  composed  of  small 
islets  connected  by  reefs,  is  quite  flat-topped,  and  without  trees.  The  surface  is  100  feet  above  ^  ■ 
high  water,  and  the  sides  are  perpendicular;  the  entire  mass  being  composed  of  coarse  sand- 
stone conglomerate  with  an  outcrop  of  basalt  on  one  of  the  reefs.  There  is  a  depth  of  two  or 
three  feet  of  soil  upon  the  top,  which  was  formerly  cultivated  by  the  Indians,  who  resorted 
here  in  summer  about  150  strong,  and  had  several  houses  near  the  only  boat  landing  on  the 
inside  of  the  island,  (1852.)  A  reef  extends  a  quarter  of  a  mile  off  the  west  side  of  the  island, 
and  the  whole  extent  of  the  island  and  reef  is  only  half  a  mile  W.NW.  by  a  third  of  a  mile. 
Deep  water  is  found  upon  all  sides,  except  between  it  and  the  cape,  where  a  reef  exists  upon 
which  it  breaks  very  heavily  in  bad  weather.  We  are  informed  that  small  vessels  have  gone 
through  when  jammed  by  an  unfavorable  wind.  In  so  doing  great  risk  must  have  been 
incurred,  as  the  currents  in  the  vicinity  run  very  irregularly  and  strong. 

From  the  top  of  the  island  a  leaning  rocky  column,  about  75  feet  high  and  one-third  of  that 
in  diameter,  is  seen  to  the  southeastward  close  under  the  face  of  the  cape.  It  is  sometimes 
called  Fuca's  pillar. 

TATOOSH  ISLAND  LIGHT-HOUSE. 

This  structure  is  erected  on  the  highest  part  of  the  island,  and  consists  of  a  keeper's  dwelling 
of  stone,  with  a  tower  of  brick,  whitewashed,  rising  above  it  and  surmounted  by  an  iron  lantern 
painted  red,  its  height  being  66  feet  above  the  top  of  the  island.  The  light  was  first  exhibited 
December  28,  1857,  and  shows  every  night,  from  sunset  to  sunrise,  z,  fixed  white  light  of  the  first 
order  of  Freenel,  which  is  elevated  162  feet  above  the  mean  sea  level,  and  in  clear  weather 
should  be  seen  from  a  height  of — 

10  feet  at  a  distance  of  18.2  miles; 

20  feet  at  a  distance  of  19.7  miles; 

30  feet  at  a  distance  of  20.9  miles; 

60  feet  at  a  distance  of  23.5  miles; 
so  that  a  vessel  from  the  southward  will  make  it  before  being  up  with  the  Flattery  Rocks. 


THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST   SURVEY.  117 

The  geograpliical  position  of  the  light,  aa  detorminod  by  the  Coast  Survey,  is: 

o       /       '/ 

Latitude 48  23  15.5  north. 

Longitude 124  43  50.0  west. 

A,    n.      f. 

.     Or,  in  time _•       8  18  55.3. 

Magnetic  variation,  21°  46'  eaat,  in  August,  1855,  with  a  yearly  increase  of  1'.4. 

The  angle  of  visibility  from  the  land  southward,  round  by  the  west  to  the  extreme  western 
visible  point  of  Vancouver  island,  is  131°,  and  from  the  same  starting  poiqt  round  by  the 
west,  up  the  strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca   263°. 

This  island,  with  its  outlying  r^cf,  is  the  most  western  portion  of  the  United  States. 

The  present  name  is  that  given  to  us  by  the  Indian  tribe  (Muk-kaw)  inhabiting  the  cape  and  . 
outer  part  of  the  strait.     Their  word  to  designate  an  island  is  opichuk't. 

On  June  29,  1788,  Mearcs,  passing  the  entrance  to  the  strait,  hove  to  off  this  island,  was 
visited  by  the  Indians,  and  sent  an  officer  to  examine  it,  who  reported  that  it  was  a  "solid  rock 
covered  with  little  verdure,  and  surrounded  by  breakers  in  every  direction."  They  also  "saw 
a  very  remarkable  rock  that  wore  the  appearance  of  an  obelisk,  and  stood  at  some  distance 
from  the  island."  To  this  rock  he  gave  the  name  of  Pinnacle  Rock.  It  is  the  columnar  leaning 
rock  already  described.  He  says  "the  island  itself  appeared  to  be  a  barren  rock,  almost  inac- 
cessible, and  of  no  great  extent;  but  the  surface  of  it,  as  far  as  wo  could  see,  was  covered  with  .  ^/ 
inhabitants,  who  were  gazing  at  the  ship."  "The  chief  of  this  spot,  whose  name  is  Tatooche,  - 
did  us  the  favor  of  a  visit,  and  so  surly  aftd  forbidding  a  character  we  had  not  yet  seen."  The 
Indians  evidently  gave  him  the  name  of  the  island,  which  he  mistook  for  that  of  the  chief- 
And  here  we  may  be  permitted  to  remark  that  from  this  place  to  Cape  Lookout  the  descrip- 
tions of  Meares  confirm  our  own  observations, 

BOCK  DUNCAN. 

This  is  a  small  low  black  rock  rising  above  the  highest  tides,  but  always  washed  by  the 
western  swell,  which  breaks  over  it.  Deep  water  is  found  close  around  it.  From  Tatoosh 
island  light  it  bears  N.  33°  W.,  distant  2,078  yards,  or  more  than  a  mile,  and  many  vessels 
pass  between  them,  as  the  chart  shows  25  fathoms;  but  a  rock  has  been  reported  in  the  channel, 
iind  it  would  be  well  to  avoid  it  until  the  doubt  is  set  at  rest.  Vancouver's  vessels  passed 
between  them.  The  rock  was  first  noticed  by  Mr.  Duncan,  and  placed  in  latitude  48°  37'  N., 
which  Vancouver,  who  gave  it  the  present  name,  considered  a  typographical  error. 

DDNTZE  BOCK. 

* 

Jfearly  a  quarter  of  a  mjle  off  Rock  Duncan,  on  the  line  from  Tatoosh  island,  *^cllet  places  a 
rock  having  three  fathoms  water  upon  it,  and  to  which  he  gave  this  name. 

With  no  wind,  a  heavy  swell  to  the  west,  ebb  current  and  proximity  to  thsse  outlying  rocks 
and  island,  a  vessel's  position  is  unsafe.,  and  great  caution  should  be  exercised  in  navigating 
this  part  of  the  entrance  to  the  Strait  of  Fuca. 


118  EEPORT   OF   THE   SUPEEINTENDENT   OF 


CAPE   FLATTERY. 


This  cape  forms  the  southern  head  of  the  entrance  of  the  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca;  it  has  a 
bold,  wild,  jagged  sea-face,  about  100  feet  high,  much  disintegrated  by  the  wearing  action  of 
the  ocean;  rises  in  a  mile  to  an  irregular  hill  of  1,500  or  2,000  feet  in  height;  is  cut  up  by 
gorges  and  covered  with  a  dense  growth  of  fir  and  almost  impenetrable  underbrush  from  the 
edge  of  the  cliffs  to  the  summit.  The  shore-line  round  to  Nee-ah  bay  is  of  the  same  forbidding 
character,  bordered  by  reefs,  and  having  but  one  short  stretch  of  beach  at  the  foot  of  the  hills, 
upon  which  is  situated  (or  was,  in  1852,)  Clisseet's  village.  The  soundings  half  a  mile  from 
shore  are  deep  and  irregular,  reaching  68  fathoms.  The  current  runs  as  much  as  three  miles 
per  hour,  and  during  the  ebb  sets  irregularly  round  the  cape,  Tatoosh  island,  and  Rock  Duncan. 
.  When  seen  from  the  southwestward.  Cape  Flattery  looks  like  an  island,  on  account  of  the  valley 
three  or  four  miles  eastward.  The  best  position  for  seeing  this  is  when  a  single  rock  off  the 
cape  shows  itself  detached.  From  this  direction  the  high  mountains  on  Vancouver's  island 
loom  up  and  stretch  far  away  to  the  northwest  and  to  the  east. 

The  extent  of  ocean  shore-line  from  Cape  Disappointment  to  Cape  Flattery  is  148  miles. 

The  name  adopted  is  that  which  Cook  gave  to  this  headland  in  1778.  It  has  been  called 
Cape  Martinez  by  the  Spaniards,  from  its  asserted  discovery,  in  1774,  by  Martinez,  pilot  to 
Perez,  who  announced  many  years  afterward  that  he  remembered  to  have  observed  a  wide 
opening  in  the  land  between  48°  and  49°  north  latitude. 

On  recent  English  charts  it  is  called  Cape  Classet,  because,  in  1792,  Vancouver  stated  that 
as  the  name  given  by  the  Indians  to  distinguish  it,  but  in  a  marginal  note  it  is  called  "  Cape 
Flattery."  In  1852  we  found  that  the  then  head  chief  of  the  Muk-kaws,  a  powerful  man,  about 
40  or  45  years  of  age,  called  himself,  and  was  called  by  the  tribe,  Clisseet'  but  we  could  not 
ascertain  whether  this  was  or  was  not  a  hereditary  title. 

On  the  western  coast  it  is  universally  known  as  Cape  Flattery. 

It  was  near  this  cape  that  a  Japanese  junk  was  wrecked  in  1833,  accounts  of  which  will  be 
found  in  Belcher's  narrative,  and  in  that  of  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition. 

BANK   OFF   CAPE   FLATTERY. 

At  the  entrance  to  the  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  15  miles,  by  estimation,  W.NW.  from  Cape 
Flattery,  we  have  been  informed  that  a  bank  exists  having  18  fathoms  upon  it,  and.  moreover, 
that  during  a  calm  our  informant  fished  upon  it  and  caught  a  large  number  of  codfish.  His 
attention  was  called  to  it  by  a  number  of  canoes  fishing.  While  encamped  in  Nee-ah  bay,  in 
1852,  the  Indians  frequently  went  out  upon  some  bank  off  the  strait  to  fish  for  cod,  but  we 
looked  upon  their  assertions  with  distrust,  and  believed  they  caught  the  fish  inside  df  the  strait. 
Each  season  in  passing,  as  we  wished  incidentally  to  seek  for  this  bank,  we  encountered  south- 
east gales,  which  rendered  the  examination  impracticable. 

•  STRAIT  OF  JUAN  DE  FUCA. 

The  entrance  to  this  strait  from  the  Pacific  lies  between  Cape  Flattery  and  Cape  Bonilla,  on 
Vancouver  island,  which  forms  the  northern  shores.  Its  width  is  about  14  miles,  and  the 
bearing  from  Flattery  to  Bonilla  NW.  J  N.  From  this  line  the  strait  runs  east  for  40  miles, 
with  a  uniform  width  of  11  miles.     It  gradually  contracts  to  8  miles  between  Beachy  Head,  on 


THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST   SURVEY.  119 

the  north,  and  St^^d  Peak,  on  tho  south;  changes  its  direction  to  E.  by  N.  \  N.  for  15  miles; 
then  expands  to  tho  northward,  attaining  a  width  of  18  to  20  miles,  and  divides  into  two  ship 
channels,  the  Canal  do  Ilaro  and  Rosario  Strait,  leading  through  the  Archipelago  do  Ilaro,  north- 
ward, to  the  Gulf  of  Georgia.  It  is  terminated  on  the  east  by  Whidbey  island;  at  the  southeast 
it  passes  into  Admiralty  Inlet;  and  it  is  bounded  on  the  south  by  the  main  land  of  Washington 
Territory,  which  forms  the  entire  southern  shore  of  the  strait.  From  the  ocean  to  Whidbey 
island  the  mid-channel  distance  is  84  miles.  The  depth  of  water  throughout  the  strait  is 
remarkably  great,  no  bottom  being  found  in  its  deepest  parts  with  150  fathoms  of  line.  It  is 
the  main  artery  for  the  waters  of  Admiralty  Inlet,  Pnget's  Sound,  Possession  Sound,  Hood's 
Canal,  Canal  de  Haro,  Rosario  Strait,  Bellingham  Bay,  and  the  vast  Gulf  of  Georgia,  extending 
between  Vancouver  island  and  New  Caledonia  for  120  miles,  with  an  average  width  of  20. 
Its  currents  run  with  an  average  velocity  of  not  less  than  three  miles  per  hour,  and  off  the  Race 
>  islands  and  Beechy  Head  over  6  miles  an  hour.  Its  shores  are  bold,  abrupt,  and  covered  with 
a  heavy  growth  of  varied  timber  and  dense  underbrush.  On  the  north  the  mountains  rise 
rapidly  from  the  water,  and  many  attain  an  elevation  of  not  less  fhan  6,000  or  7,000  feet. 
These  are  covered  with  fir  to  their  summits.  On  the  south,  for  30  miles  from  the  entrance,  the 
shore  is  bounded  by  hills  of  2,000  feet  height,  backed  by  the  jagged  OljTnpus  range  of  8,200 
feet.  For  the  next  50  miles  the  shore  is  generally  a  steep  cliff,  from  60  to  200  feet  high,  with 
a  flat  country  extending  nearly  to  the  foot  hills  of  Olympus,  and  stretching  further  south  as  we 
move  eastward.  On  the  east  the  face  of  Whidbey  island  is  very  steep;  it  is  about  250  feet 
high  and  appears  flat,  as  does  tho  whole  country  eastward  to  the  sharp-cut  outline  of  the  Cas- 
cade range,  stretching  its  serrated  ridge  northward  where  the  snow-peak  of  Mount  Baker*  is 
distinctly  seen;  and  to  the  southward  where  the  higher  peak  of  Mount  Rainier*  attracts  the  eye. 

At  the  time  of  our  first  visit  the  southern  shore  of  the  strait  was  inhabited  by  large  numbers 
of  Indians,  living  in  heavily  stockaded  villages.  They  were  tolerably  expert  in  the  use  of  fire- 
arms, of  which  they  seemed  to  have  a  good  supply.  They  lived  mostly  by  fishing,  but  raised 
a  fair  supply  of  remarkably  good  potatoes  from  the  stock  seed  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company. 

During  dry  summers  the  Indians  and  settlers  set  fire  to  the  forests  in  every  direction,  and  the 
country  soon  becomes  enveloped  in  a  dense  smoke  that  lasts  for  two  or  three  months.  At  such 
times  it  is  frequently  impossible  to  make  out  the  shore  at  half  a  mile  distance;  the  strong 
westerly  winds  coming  up  the  strait  disperse  it  for  a  while,  but  only  to  fan  the  fires  and  give 
them  renewed  force  and  activity. 

In  summer  the  prevailing  wind  draws  into  the  strait,  increasing  towards  evening,  and  frequently 
blowing  a  ten-knot  breeze  before  midnight;  but  unless  the  wind  is  strong  outside  little  will  be 
felt  in  the  strait,  and  very  frequently  vessels  will  be  a  week  from  Cape  Flattery  to  Admiralty 
Inlet,  or  vice  versa.  In  winter  the  southeast  winds  draw  directly  out,  and  create  a  very  heavy 
cross  sea  off  tho  entr.ince,  the  great  southwest  swell  meeting  that  rolling  out.  In  such  cases 
trading  vessels  try  to  gain  Nee-ah  bay  or  San  Juan  harbor,  and  remain  at  anchor  until  the  wind 
changes.  In  beating  in  or  out  vessels  may  run  as  close  under  either  shore  as  wind  and  currents 
warrant,  as  no  hidden  dangers  have  been  found  half  a  mile  off  shore,  except  at  tho  west  side  of 
the  small  indentation  called  Crescent  bay,  near  Striped  Peak,  44  miles  inside  of  Rock  Duncan. 

At  the  entrance  the  currepts  acquire,  during  the  'large  tide"  of  each  day,  a  velocity  of  4 
miles  per  hour,  and,  after  strong  northwest  winds,  a  very  large,  short,  but  regular  swell  is 
encountered  west  of  Nefi-ah  bay  during  the  ebb  current.     If  the  wind  is  light  and  no  steerage 

e  Named  by  Vanoourer,  1791. 


>^ 


120  REPORT  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

way  on  the  vessel  the  feeling  is  decidedly  disagreeable,  especially  as  -the  current  seems 
constantly  to  set  close  around  Rock  Duncan  and  Tatoosh  island.  If  a  vessel  falls  into  the 
trough  of  this  swell  she  is  bound  to  fetch  away  something. 

Settlers  are  gradually  advancing  from  Puget's  Sound  and  Admiralty  Inlet  along  the  strait 
westward,  and  scom  destined  to  meet  those  coming  up  the  coast  from  Gray's  harbor  and  Shoal- 
water  bay. 

Washington  Territory  has  a  climate  excelled  only  by  that  of  California.  "We  know  not  where 
to  point  to  such  a  ramification  of  inland  navigation,  save  in  the  British  possessions  to  the  north- 
ward. For  depth  of  water,  boldness  of  approaches,  freedom  from  hidden  dangers,  and  the 
immeasurable  sea  of  gigantic  timber  coming  down  to  th^  very  sh^ores,  these  waters  are 
unsurpassed,  unapproachable.  ^'  tv  c^w  ^1  "H^  eJS  Vtrv,  *wf^     /  ^  '^ 

The  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca  was  discovered  by  the  long  boat  of  the  Imperial  Eagle,  under  the 
command  of  Berkely,  in  1787. 

In  June,  1788,  it  was  examined  by  Meares,  in  the  Felice,  he  having  obtained  information  of 
its  existence  from  Berkely.  At  the  entrance  it  "appeared  to  be  12  or  14  leagues  broad.  From 
the  mast-head  it  was  observed  to  stretch  to  the  E.  by  N. ,  and  a  clear  unbounded  horizon  was 
seen  in  that  direction  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach."  He  frequently  sounded  "but  could 
procure  no  bottom  with  100  fathoms  of  line."  He  afterwards  sent  a  party  to  explore  the  strait, 
who  went  up  about  50  miles,  determining  the  harbor  of  San  Juan.  He  first  applied  the  name 
"John  de  Fuca"  to  the  strait. 

After  the  expedition  of  1775  several  Spanish  expeditions  were  fitted  out  for  exploration  in 
these  latitudes,  but  we  are  not  sufficiently  acquainted  with  their  results  to  state  their  claims 
and  merits.     Quimper  was  in  the  strait  in  1790,  and  Galiano  and  Valdez  in  1791  and  1792. 

Gray  entered  the  strait  in  1792,  penetrated  50  miles  in  an  B.SE.  direction,  and  found  the 
passage  6  leagues  wide.  He  gives  the  latitude  of  Tatoosh  island,  or  Cape  Flattery,  48°  24'. 
The  extracts  from  his  log-book,  stating  particulars  of  this  and  the  Columbia  river  exploration, 
were  not  made  public  until  1816.  All  of  Gray's  latitudes,  distances,  and  courses,  are  very 
good  and  trustworthy. 

Vancouver  entered  the  strait  in  1792,  and  gave  to  the  world  the  first  detailed  and  authentic 
account  of  it._a- 

THE  SOUTHERN  SHORE  OF  THE  STRAIT  OF  JUAN  DE  FUCA. 

NBE-AH    BAT. 

Koitlah  Point,  the  western  boundary  of  this  bay,  is  4  miles  E.  by  N.  §  N.  from  the  light- 
house on  Tatoosh  island.  From  Cape  Flattery  the  shore  is  nearly  straight,  high,  and  rugged, 
backed  by  hills  about  1,500  or  2,000  feet  high  and  covered  with  timber.  Deep  water  is  found 
within  a  third  of  a  mile  of  the  bluffs,  and,  at  a  distance  of  half  a  mile,  a  depth  of  20  fathoms 
is  obtained.     Within  a  mile  of  Koitlah  Point  was  a  large  village  of  the  Mukkaws. 

The  bay  is  about  a  mile  and  a  quarter  long  S.SE.,  and  the  same  in  width  at  the  entrance. 
The  western  side  is  high,  precipitous,  and  bordered  by  craggy,  outcropping  rocks  300  or  400 
yards  from  the  shore.  The  3-fathom  curve  ranges  about  600  yards  from  the  foot  of  the  bluff. 
The  general  direction  of  this  side  is  SE.  for  one  mile,  when  the  hills  suddenly  cease  and  a  low 
shore,  with  sand  beach  backed  by  woods,  curves  gradually  to  the  NE.  by  E  for  a  mile  and  a 
quarter  to  Ba-ad-dah  Point,  formed  by  a  spur  of  the  hills. 

The  east  side  of  the  bay  is  formed  by  Waaddah  island,  the  northern  end  of  which  lies  1^ 


THE   UNITKD   STATES   COAST   8UHVEY.  121 

mile  from  Koitlah  E.  f>y  N.  J  N.  This  inland  is  ii  narrow,  high  ridge,  about  250  yards  wide 
:iiid  hiilf  a  mile  long,  covered  with  trees,  and  Iniving  a  direction  SE.  {  E.  pointing*  toward 
Ba-ad-d«l»  Point,  and  presenting  the  appearanco  of  a  continuation  of  that  spur,  but  separated 
from  it  by  a  4 -fathom  channel  500  yards  wide.  Off  the  southwest  part  rocks  extend  for  250 
yards,  and  the  3-fathom  curve  is  600  yards  distant.  Along  the  sand  beach  the  3-fathom  curve 
is  within  200  yards  of  the  shore,  the  depth  increasing  to  7  fathoms,  then  decreasing  to  5  in  the 
middle  of  the  bay,  an<l  again  increasing  to  10  on  the  outer  lino  of  the  bay.  Much  kelp  abounds 
in  this  harbor,  even  in  deep  water;  the  lower  and  thinnest  portion  being  used  by  the  Indians 
for  fishing  lines.  When  coiled  away  and  dry  they  break  like  ^lass,  but  soaking  them  in  salt 
water  renews  their  elasticity  and  strength. 

The  best  anchorage  is  in  the  south  part  of  the  bay,  in  about  o  tuthoms,  being  tlien  olf  the 
small  stream  which  comes  in  at  the  eastern  foot  of  the  hills.  No  direction  can  be  given  about 
anchoring  off  any  particular  village,  as  the  Indians  change  their  location  so  frequently;  but 
near  tliis  stream  will  generally  be  found  some  bouses,  with  an  abundance  of  fresh  water. 
During  southerly  weatlier  little  swell  is  felt  hero,  and  the  wind  can  do  no  harm,  but  when  a 
largo  westerly  swell  is  coming  up  the  strait  it  roaches  here,  and  a  vessel  rolls  uncomfortably 
unless  she  rides  head  to  it.  • 

The  primary  astronomical  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  was  just  back  of  the  beach,  about  400 
yards  oast  of  the  small  stream  before  referred  to.     Its  geographical  position  is: 

or  (/ 

Latitude 48  21  48.8  north. 

Longitude 124  37  12.0  west. 

A.     m.       ». 

Or,  in  time 8   18  28.8. 

Magnetic  variation  21°  30*  east,  in  August,  1852,  with  a  yearly  increase  of  l'.4. 

From  the  NW.  end  of  Waaddab  island  it  bears  S.  by  W.  J  W.,  distant  1|  mile. 

TidcD. — The  corrected  establishment  or  mean  interval  between  the  timo  of  the  moon's 
transit  and  the  time  of  high  water  is  Xllh.  XXXIIIm.  The  moan  rise  and  fall  of  tides  is  5.6 
feet;  of  spring  tides  7.4  feet,  and  of  neap  tides  4.8  feet.  The  mean  duration  of  the  flood  is  6A. 
20m.,  and  of  the  ebb  Qh.  6m.  The  average  difference  between  the  corrected  estabhshments  of 
the  a.  m.  and  p.  m.  tides  of  the  same  day  is  l/«.  18m.  for  high  water  and  lit.  2m.  for  low  water. 
The  differences  when  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest  are  2A.  20m.  and  Ih.  5Got.,  respectively. 
The  average  difference  in  height  of  those  two  tides  is  1.7  foot  for  the  high  waters  and  3.5  feet 
for  the  low  waters.  When  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest  those  differences  are  2.8  feet  and 
5.0  feet,  respectively.  The  average  difference  of  the  highest  high  and  lowest  low  waters  of 
the  same  day  is  8.2  feet,  and  when  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest  9.5  feet.  The  highest 
high  water  in  the  twenty-fonr  hours  occurs  about  llh.  54m.  after  the  moon's  uppet  transit, 
(southing,)  when  the  moon's  declination  is  north,  and  about  32m.  before,  when  south.  The 
lowest  low  water  occurs  about  Ih.  after  the  highest  high  water. 

This  bay  was  known  as  Poverty  cove  by  the  early  fur  traders  on  the  coast;  next  as  Port 

Xufiez  Guona,  by  Quimper,  in  1790.  *  In  1792  the  Spaniards,  then  establishing  themselves  at 

Nootka  Sound,  attempted  to  found  a  colony  here,  and  as  late  as  1847  bricks  were  found  near 

the  small  stream  abreast  of  the  anchorage.     We  searched  for  vestiges  of  the  settlement  as  late 

as  1852,  but  found  nothing.     Vancouver  noted  tho  indentation  of  the  coast  here  in  1792.     It 

waa  next  called  "Scarborough  harbor,"  by  the  Unitad  States  Exploring  Expedition  in  1841. 

The  Indian  name  is  that  now  adopted,  and  the  only  one  by  which  it  is  known  on  the  coast. 
16 


122  EEPORT   OF   THE    SUPERINTENDENT   OF 

In  1852  the  Mukkaws  about  Flattery  could  muster  300  or  400  warriors,  mostly  armed  with 
muskets  and  knives.  They  had  several  large  stockaded  villages  and  hundreds  of  canoes.  We 
have  counted  over  70  at  one  time  fishing  for  salmon  in  the  bay.  They  were  brave  and  fearless; 
made  voyages  to  Nitinat,  Clayoquot,  and  Nootka  Sounds,  and  pursued  the  whale  and  black  fish 
successfully.  In  three  months  they  sold  over  7, 500  gallons  of  oil  to  the  traders.  They  main- 
tain trade  with  the  Indians  on  the  west  of  Vancouver,  forcing  them  to  dispose  of  their  oil  and 
skins  to  themselves  directly,  and  not  to  the  traders.  By  this  means  they  make  a  large  profit 
as  intermediate  traders.  They  estimate  their  wealth  by  the  number  of  slaves  and  blankets, 
and  the  quantity  of  oil  they  possess.  In  the  fall  of  1852  the  smallpox  Avas  introduced  among 
them,  and  nearly  swept  oif  the  -tribe — more  than  two-thirds  falling  victims  to  the  disease — 
among  them  the  principal  chief,  Clisseet,  and  the  second  chief,  Flattery  Jack. 

Two  miles  east  of  Waaddah  island,  and  within  the  limits  of  the  kelp,  is  a  rock  150  feet  high, 
called  Sail  Rock  by  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition,  and  by  Kellet,  Klaholoh,  (seals.) 
The  Indian  name  is  Saelok.  Behind  it  enters  a  small  stream  called  the  Okho  on  the  Admiralty 
charts,  but  this  is  not  the  Indian  name. 

CALLAM   BAY. 

From  the  eastern  point  of  Nee-ah  bay  to  Sek&j^  Point,  the  western  part  of  Callam  bay,  the 
course  is  E.  ^  S.,  and  distance  13^  miles.  The  shore-line  is  nearly  straight,  bluif,  and 
bordered  by  rocks,  with  an  occasional  stretch  of  sandy  beach.  One  mile  off  shore  the  average 
depth  of  water  is  20  fathoms.  The  bay  is  at  the  western  termination  of  a  high,  bold,  wooded 
ridge,  running  parallel  to  the  shore,  with  an  almost  perpendicular  water  face,  and  falling  away 
rapidly  inshore.  This  easily  recognized  ridge  is  about  1,000  feet  high  and  7  miles  long.  The 
Avestern  extremity  lies  E.  |  S.  from  "Waaddah  island,  is  distant  16  miles,  and  called  SUj)  Point; 
the  eastern  is  designated  as  Pillar  Point.  The  width  of  the  bay  from  Sekon  Point  to  Slip  Point 
is  2  miles,  and  the  bearing  E.  by  N.  5  N.  Outside  these  limits  15  fathoms  water  may  be 
struck.  The  form  of  the  bay  is  nearly  semi-circular,  and  the  depth  of  the  curve  nearly  a  mile, 
with  6  fathoms  about  the  middle.  Into  it  empties  a  small  stream  from  the  southeast,  having 
low  land  on  its  eastern  side,  and  a  small  rise  on  the  west.  Some  sunken  rocks  are  said  to  lie 
off  SUp  Point. 

The  water  along  the  face  of  the  ridge  is  very  deep,  and  the  bottom  rocky  and  irregular. 
About  half  way  along  it  is  the  entrance  to  a  vein  of  lignite,  Avhich  has  been  worked,  but  it  is 
not  fit  for  steamship  consumption.  Off  this  mine,  at  the  distance  of  a  cable's  length,  a  depth 
of  35  fathoms  is  found,  with  a  swell  upon  the  rocks  sufficient  to  destroy  any  boat  loading  there. 
The  so-called  coal  is  very  easily  broken,  and  crumbles  by  exposure  to  the  Aveather.  We  saAV 
it  fairly  tried  upon  a  steamer,  and  it  did  not  answer.  An  analysis  of  some  of  the  best  speci- 
mens yielded  68  per  cent,  of  carbon,  and  we  judge  it  to  be  bitumen.  The  geological  formation 
of  the  whole  region  is  opposed  to  the  existence  of  coal.  Among  the  bituminous  shales  we 
searched  in  vain  for  any  specimens  of  fossil  impressions. 

Pillar  Point  is  nearly  E.  \  S.  from  the  north  end  of  Waaddah  island,  and  distant  23  miles. 
Its  latitude  is  48°  13'  N.     The  peak  is  slightly  separated  from  the  main  ridge  by  a  depression. 
From  this  point  the   shore  trends  S.SE.  about  a  mile,  and  receives  a  stream  coming  from  the. 
westward,  called  Carrd  river.     An  Indian  village  exists  here.     The  Indian  name  of  the  stream 
is  Pisht-st. 

From  Pillar  Point  the  next  prominent  object  is  a  Avooded  hill  called  Striped  Peak,  bearing 
E.  by  N.,  and  distant  17  miles.     The  shore  retreats  to  the  southward  of  this  line  about  3  miles, 


THE   UNITKU   8TATM   COAST   SURVEY.  123 

having  alternate  blufT  and  low  shores,  with  mnny  little  streams  opening  upon  them,  nn<l  ut  the 
distance  of  11  or  12  miles  from  Pillar  Point,  Lotc  Point  makes  out  at  the  mouth  of  a  stream 
called  the  Lvre.  Rocks  abound  close  along  the  shore.  The  kelp  generally  extends  out  to  5 
fathoms,  and  the  average  depth  of  water,  a  mile  off,  is  10  fathoms.  One  mile  before  reaching 
the  western  part  of  Striped  Peak  is  a  sunken  rock,  upon  which  the  sea  breaks  at  low  water. 
A  slight  fndcntation  of  the  shore  hero  has  received  the  name  of  Crescent  bay. 

Striped  Peak  is  several  huiidroa  feet  high,  and  wooded;  and  was  doubtless  named  from  a 
well  marked  line  upon  its  water. side,  occasioned  by*  land  slide  from  its  summit.  This  mark 
is  being  rapidly  obliterated  by  the  growtli  of  vegetation.  The  base  of  the  hill  towards  the 
water  presents  a  straight  line,  running  B.  by  N.  for  3  miles,  with  deep  water  off  it. 

Freahtoaler  bay. — The  eastern  part  of  Striped  Peak,  with  several  rocks  off  it,  is  called 
Observatory  Point  on  the  Admiralty  chartif,  and  forms  the  western  boundary  of  Freshwater 
bay.  The  eastern  side  is  the  low  delta  called  Angelos  Point,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Elwha, 
and  the  line  joining  the  two  runs  E.  by  N.  |  N.  3  miles  across.  Inside  of  this  line  the  depth 
of  the  curve  is  about  1^  mile,  with  water  ranging  from  16  fathoms  to  4  and  5  close  in  shore. 
The  western  shore  of  the  bay  is  bluff,  the  eiustern  low,  with  bluff  in  the  roar.  The  waters  of 
the  Elwha  bring  down  such  quantities  of  earth  that  we  find  only  10  fatlioms  water  at  a  distance 
of  three-quarters  of  a  mile  off  its  mouth. 

POST   ANGELES   OR   FALSE   DUNOENESS. 

Four  miles  east  of  the  Elwha  commences  a  long,  low,  very  narrow  sand  spit,  stretcliing  out 
from  the  bluff  in  a  general  E.NE.  direction  for  3  miles,  to  the  point  called  Ediz  Hook,  which  lies 
1^  mile  off  the  main  shore,  thus  forming  an  excellent  and  extensive  harbor,  with  deep  water  of 
25  to  30  fathoms,  sandy  bottom,  close  under  the  inside  of  the  sand  spit,  almost  to  the  head  of 
the  bay.  Through  the  centre  of  the  bay  wo  found  a  lino  of  15  fathoms,  sticky  bottom,  and 
between  that  and  the  main  it  shoals  very  regularly  with  the  same  kind  of  bottom.  On  the 
outside  of  the  spit  very  deep  water  is  found  close  to  it,  and  the  hook  may  be  rounded  within  a 
cable's  length  in  25  fathoms.  In  the  indentation  between  Angelos  Point  and  the  head  of  the 
bay  the  water  is  shoal,  10  fathoms  being  found  2  miles  from  shore. 

The  Hook  is  covered  with  coarse  grass,  and  in  many  places  with  driftwood,  showing  that  the 
sea  sometimes  washes  over  it.  Although  it  lies  well  out  of  the  line  of  vessels  bound  either  in 
or  out  of  the  strait,  it  would  ba  advisable  to  mark  it  with  large,  easily  recognized  beacons,  or 
to  plant  trees  along  part  of  it,  as  it  cannot  now  be  distinguished,  even  in  good  weather,  until 
a  vessel  is  close  upon  it.  From  the  middle  of  the  strait  it  cannot  be  made  out  unless  the 
appearance  of  the  bluff  beyond  is  known.  At  the  head  of  the  bay  is  a  large  salt  water  lagoon. 
Fresh  water  is  found  on  the  south  shore  is  several  places,  but  the  extensive  flats  render  it  hard 
to  obtain.  The  bluff,  70  feet  high,  comes  directly  to  the  high  water  line,  and  is  covered  with 
trees.  Three  Indian  villages  of  the  Clallums  existed  on  its  shores  in  1852,  when  a  secoudarj' 
astronomical  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  was  estjiblished  near  the  Indian  graveyard  at  the 
head  of  the  harbor.     It  geographical  position  is : 

O  I        II 

Latitude 48  07  52.0  north. 

Longitude 123  27  21     west; 

h.  ffl.    «. 

Or,  in  time 8  13  49.4. 

From  this  station  the  extremity  of  Ediz  Hook  bears  NE.  by  E.,  distant  2g  miles. 


124  BEPOBT   OP   THE    SUPERINTENDENT    OF 

The  bay  was  first  discovered  by  the  Spaniards,  and  by  them  made  known  to  Vancouver  in 
1791'.  We  first  heard  of  its  present  name,  False  Dungeness,  in  1852,  when  at  Cape  Flattery, 
from  traders  there.  A  preliminary  chart  of  False  Dungeness  was  published  by  the  Coast 
Survey  in  1853,  and  a  second  edition  in  1856. 

NEW  DUNGENESS   BAT. 

The  shore  from  Point  Angeles  gradually  curves  to  the  northeast"  and  about  8  or  9  miles  from 
Ediz  Hook  another  long,  low,  narrow  sand  spit,  covered  with  grass,  leaves  the  bluff  shore  and 
stretches  in  a  general  N.NE.  direction  for  3|  miles,  forming  the  northwestern  side  of  the  road- 
stead of  New  Dungeness.  On  the  inside,  one  mile  from  the  eastern  extremity,  another 
narrow  sand  spit  makes  1^  mile  southward  towards  the  main  shore,  forming  a  large  inner  shoal 
bay,  with  a  narrow  opening,  through  which  the  Avater  passes  as  over  a  rapid  at  low  tide. 
Abreast  of  this  point  is  a  small  stream,  affording  an  abundance  of  fresh  water,  but  boats  must 
obtain  their  supply  at  low  tide,  and  come  out  when  the  tide  has  sufficiently  risen.  The 
western  side  of  this  stream  is  a  bluff  60  feet  high,  and  upon  it  is  a  large  village  of  the  Clallums. 
The  eastern  shore  of  the  stream  is  low,  swampy,  and  covered  with  trees  and  brush.  It  forms 
the  southern  or  main  shore  of  the  roadstead,  and  off  it  lie  extensive  mud  flats,  which  are  bare 
at  low  water  for  five-eighths  of  a  mile,  and  run  as  far  as  Washington,  or  Budd's  liarbor.  Shoal 
water  exists  some  distance  outside  of  these  flats.  About  20  fathoms  are  found  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  south  of  the  Light-house  Point,  the  depth  regularly  decreasing  a'cross  the  bay,  with  a  soft, 
tenacious,  muddy  bottom.  The  usual  and  best  anchorage  is  to  bring  the  light-house  to  bear 
about  N.  by  E.  ^  E.,  half  a  mile  distant,  when  10  fathoms  are  found  one-third  of  a  mile,  broad  off 
the  beach.  With  the  light-house  bearing  NW.  by  N.  three-quarters  of  a  mile  distant  the  same 
depth  and  bottom  are  found.  The  nearest  shore  will  bear  south  1^  mile,  and  the  mud  flat 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  the  same  direction,  A  southeast  wind  drawing  out  of  the  strait 
blows  directly  into  this  harbor,  but  the  bottom  will  hold  any  vessel  with  good  ground  tackle. 
The  only  difficulty  will  be  to  get  the  anchors  out  of  the  mud  after  riding  a  couple  of  days  to  a 
gale.     In  the  last  position  a  vessel  can  readily  get  under  weigh  and  clear  the  point. 

This  point  is  so  low  that  vessels  bound  in  or  out,  before  the  erection  of  the  light-house, 
were  upon  it  before  they  were  aware  of  their  danger.  Several  had  run  ashore  on  the  outside 
beach,  and  in  1855,  while  we  were  anchored  close  in,  with  the  weather  thick  and  hazy,  a  vessel 
from  Admiralty  Inlet  had  been  set  oi;t  of  her  course  by  the  currents,  and  came  driving  in  with 
studding  sails  out,  and  only  saw  her  mistake  and  danger  when  the  black  hull  of  our  vessel 
attracted  her  attention. 

A  shoal  with  2^  fathoms  makes  out  N.NE.  from  the  end  of  the  point  for  half  a  mile,  and  a 
heavy  tide-rip  runs  over  it  at  the  change  of  the  currents. 

A  hydrographic  sketch  of  New  Dungeness  was  issued  from  the  Coast  Survey  office  in  1856. 

LIGHT-HOUSE  AT  NEW  DUNGENESS. 

The  structure  is  about  one-sixth  of  a  mile  from  the  outer  end  of  the  point,  and  consists  of  a 
keeper's  dwelling  of  stone,  Avith  a  tower  of  brick;  the  upper  half  being  a  dark  lead  color,  the 
lower  half  white.  The  tower  is  surmounted  by  an  iron  lantern  painted  red;  the  entire  height 
being  92  feet,  and  its  elevation  above  the  mean  sea-level  100  feet. 

The  light  was  first  exhibited  December  14,  1857,  and  shows  every  night,  from  sunset  to  sun- 
.   rise,  di  fixed  wliite  light  of  the  third  order  of  Fresnel,  which  should  be  seen  from  a  height  of : 


THE   nNITED   STATES   COAST   SURVEY.  125 

10  feet  nt  a  distance  of  15    milos. 
20     "  "  16J     " 

30    '  "  nj    " 

Its  goographical  position,  as  doteriuinod  by  the  United  States  Coast  Survey,  is  : 

o  '  " 

Latitude 48     10    59  north. 

Longitude 123    06     6T  west. 

h.      m.     8. 

Or,  in  time 8       12  24.5    '' 

Maj^netic  variation  21°  43'  east,  in  August,  1856,  with  a  yearly  increase  of  1'.  4. 
Prom  it  we  have  the  following  bearings  and  distances  : 

Striped  Peak  SW.  by  W.  J  W.,   distant  21    miles. 
Race  islands  west,  "      18  " 

VictoriaHarborNW.  byW.  J  \V.,     "      HJ        " 
Smith's  island  NE.  by  N.  iN.,  "      13 

Point  Wilson  E.b'^N.,  "      UJ 

Fog-beU  at  New  Dungeness. — Upon  the  outer  extremity  of  the  point  a  fog-bell  of  1, 100  pounds 
weight  has  been  placed,  and  will  bo  sounded  every  ten  seconds  during  foggy  or  other  thick 
weather  day  and  night.  "The  striking  machinery  is  in  a  frame  building,  with  the  front  open, 
to  receive  the  bell,  painted  black,  raised  30  feet  above  the  ground  on  an  open  structure,  white- 
washed." 

Tides.-^The  approximate  corrected  establishment  is  IIIA.  Illm.  and  the  approximate  mean 
rise  and  fall  of  tides  5.0  feet. 

Our  experience  in  these  waters  suggests  that  the  light-house  building  should  be  painted 
black,  or  a  color  most  readily  made  out  in  foggy  or  smoky  weather.  Several  years  since  we 
urged  the  advantage  of  planting  trees  along  the  spit  to  aflford  large  dark  maswes,  that  a  lookout 
might  see  the  danger  before  being  upon  it.     A  few  settlers  are  now  located  about  the  bay. 

This  harbor  was  first  examined  and  made  known  by  Vancouver,  who  applied  the  present 
name,  in  1792.     It  is  known  by  no  other. 

Eastward  of  Dungeness  the  shore  is  indented  by  Washington  harbor.  Port  Discovery,  and 
Admiralty  Inlet,  the  northwest  point  of  the  entrance  to  which  is  Point  Wilson. 

WASHINGTON,    OB   BUDD'S    HAKBOR. 

Prom  New  Dungeness  roadstead  to  the  entrance  to  this  harbor  the  immediate  shore  is  low, 
flat,  covered  with  trees,  and  bordered  by  an  extensive  mud  flat;  but  behind  it,  at  a  ver}'  short 
distance,  rises  a  level  plateau.  The  bluff  at  the  NE.  point  of  the  harbor  is  seen  from  Dunge- 
ness Point.  The  entrance  of  the  harbor  is  nearly  closed  by  a  low  sand  spit  stretching  across 
it  from  the  east,  almost  to  the  western  part,  where  a  narrow  channel  way  exists  having  two 
fathoms  through  it.  This  cannot  be  seen  from  Dungeness  Point,  which  is  GJ  miles  NW.,  on 
account  of  the  outward  curving  of  the  intermediate  shore.  Inside  of  the  harbor  we  found  17 
fathoms.  Its  width  is  a  little  over  a  mile,  and  regular,  its  length  about  3  miles,  and  the  general 
direction  SE.  by  S.  One  mile  outside  of  the  sand  spit  a  depth  of  10  and  12  fathoms  exists, 
deepening  rapidly  to  30  and  35,  with  a  bottom  of  stiff"  mud. 

This  harbor  was  surveyed  first  by  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition,  and  called  Budd's 
harbor,   but  there  being  a  sheet  of  water  in  Pnget's  Sound  bearing  a  similar  name,  we  have 


126  REPORT  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

adopted  Kellett's  appellation.     The  Indian  name  of  the  bay  is  S'quim,  by  which  it  is  generally 
known  to  the  settlers. 

Quimper,  in  1790,  explored  the  harbors  abont  here,  as  did  Galiano  and  Valdes  in  1791. 

PROTECTION   ISLAND. 

The  western  extremity  of  this  island  lies  E.  §  S.,  distant  7^  miles  from  Dungeness  light- 
house, and  extends  a  little  over  a  mile  B.  NE. ,  being  narrow,  curved  outward  to  the  strait,  and 
having  a  low  point  at  each  end,  with  shoal  water  stretching  from  the  western.  Its  sides  are 
■  very  steep,  and  about  200  feet  high,  the  seaward  part  covered  with  timber,  and  that  towards 
Port  Discovery  undulating  and  covered  with  fern.  It  lies  two  miles  directly  off  (NW.)  the 
entrance  to  Port  Discovery.  On  the  inside  is  found  very  deep  water,  but  upon  the  outside  a 
line  of  kelp,  about  half  a  mile  out,  marks  the  4-fathom  curve,  and  from  this  a  bank  runs  out 
N.NW.  for  three  miles,  having  from  5  to  15  fathoms  upon  it,  with  a  shoal  spot  of  3  and  4 
fathoms  two  miles  from  the  island.  It  affords  a  good  anchorage  with  light  airs  and  strong 
adverse  currents.     The  bottom  is  irregular  and  falls  off  suddenly. 

This  island,  with  Port  Angeles  and  New  Dungeness, 'afford  the  first  examples  of  the  peculiar 
feature  of  low  sandy  and  gravelly  points  covered  with  coarse  grass  and  bushes,  making  out  from 
the  high  cliffs,  where  the  tendency  of  strong  currents  would  seem  to  be  to  cut  them  ofl". 

It  was  called  Protection  island  by  Vancouver  in  1792,  and  on  account  of  its  position  in 
relation  to  Port  Discovery,  is  very  aptly  named. 

PORT  DISCOVERY. 

From  Dungeness  light  the  west  side  of  the  entrance  to  Port  Discovery,  called  Challam  Point, 
bears  E.  by  S.  ^  S.  distant  9  miles.  From  Washington  harbor  the  distance  is  4  miles.  The 
intermediate  shore  is  composed  of  high  steep  cliffs.  Cape  George,  the  eastern  point  of  the 
entrance,  bears  NE.  about  1^  mile  from  Challam  Point,  and  this  is  nearly  the  uniform  width  of 
the  bay  for  its  entire  length  of  9  miles.  It  makes  three  or  four  courses  from  the  entrance  to 
the  head,  as  follows:  2  miles  S.  |  E.,  3  miles  E.  by  S.  ^  S.,  2  miles  S.  by  E.  ^  E.,  and  2  miles 
SW.  I  W.  These  data  and  the  names  of  points  are  taken  from  the  Admiralty  chart,  as  we  have 
not  the  map  or  notes  of  our  survey  before  us.  The  shores  are  abrupt  and  covered  with,  wood  to 
their  edges,  and  the  projecting  parts  are  all  terminated  by  low  points  stretching  out  short 
distances.  On  the  second  point  on  the  eastern  side  were  (1856)  the  remains  of  an  extensive 
stockaded  village  of  the  Clallums.  Mount  Chatham  lies  off  the  southwestern  part  of  the  bay, 
and  reaches  a  height  of  2, 000  feet. 

When  well  in  this  bay  Protection  island  so  completely  shuts  up  the  entrance  as  to  make  it 
appear  as  a  large  lake.  The  great  drawback  to  this  port  is  its  depth  of  water,  which  in  mid- 
channel  is  not  less  in  any  place  than  25  fathoms,  and  in  some  is  40.  Under  the  second  low 
point  on  the  east  we  could  not  find  less  than  25  fathoms  a  few  ship' s  lengths  from  the  beachi 
but  found  good  anchorage  in  20  fathoms,  soft  bottom,  on  the  western  shore  2  miles  S.SE.  from 
Challam  Point,  and  abreast  of  a  low  swampy  beach.  At  the  head  of  the  bay  it  contracts  in 
width,  the  water  shoals,  a  large  mud  flat  exists  for  the  last  mile,  and  the  shores  become  higher, 
but  in  places  the  hills  retreat  and  give  a  scanty  space  for  a  few  settlers'  cabins.  For  a  few 
years  after  the  settling  of  San  Francisco  many  vessels  came  here  for  piles  and  spars. 

It  was  discovered  in  1790  by  Quimper,  and  called  port  Quadra.     In  1791  the  Spanish  dis- 


THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST  SURVEY.  127 

cover}'  brig  Sutil,   SeBor  Don   D.    Oallaiio,  and  tho  schoonor  Mexicana,  SoHor  Don  C.  Valdez, 
refitted  thoir  ships  here. 

It  was  first  surveyed  aiid  made  known  by  Vanconver  in  1792,  who  refitted  his  ships  and  estab- 
lished an  observatory  at  tho  second  low  point  on  the  western  shore.  He  gave  it  tho  present 
namo,  after  one  of  his  ships,  and  it  is  known  by  no  other. 

In  1856  wo  found  on  tho  bluff  back  of  Chalhim  Point  great  numbers  of  trees  that  had  been 
twisted  off  and  uprooted  by  a  tornado  from  the  southeastward.  The  prostrated  trees  wore 
plainly  visible  on  the  sloping  hill  side  from  tho  bay. 

Point  Wilaon  is  tho  western  point  of  tho  entrance  to  Admiralty  Inlet.  From  Dungenoss  light 
it  bear^E.  by  N.,  distant  nearly  15  miles;  this  course  passing  over  the  outer  edge  of  the  3- 
fathom  shoal  off  Protection  island.  The  extremity  of  the  point  is  composed  of  low  sandy  hil- 
locks covered  with  coarse  grass;  but  west  of  it  the  hill  rises  200  or  300  feet,  and  again  falls  in' 
shore.  This  appearance  is  well  seen  in  approaching  it  from  the  strait,  and  is  a  good  mark. 
Between  the  point  and  Port  Discovery  tho  shore  is  high  with  steep  yellow  cliffs,  and  about 
midway  a  slightly  projecting  angle  is  formed,  called  Middle  Point.  To  the  northwest  of  the 
point  15  fathoms  can  be  obtained  a  mile  from  the  shore,  but  the  water  shoals  suddenly,  and  in 
running  in  a  fog  the  lead  must  be  kept  going.  Off  tho  eastern  end  of  the  point  20  fathoms 
can  be  got  a  ship's  length  from  shore.  During  ebb  tides  a  very  strong  eddy  current  sets  east- 
ward along  shore  between  Discovery  and  Point  Wilson.  In  1855,  when  coming  out  of  the  inlet 
on  the  lai^e  ebb,  with  scarcely  any  wind,  we  kept  outside  of  the  rip  showing  the  lino  of  the 
eddy.  A  vessel  two  or  three  miles  ahead  was  in  tho  eddy  at  the  same  time.  We  were  carried 
past  Protaftion  island,  but  she  was  drifted  back  to  Point  Wilson.  The  Indians  when  bound  to 
Dungeness  keep  well  out  in  the  ebb. 

A  light-house  has  been  recommended  for  this  point,  as  it  presents  many  advantages  over  the 
head  on  the  opposite  side  of  tho  inlet. 

When  we  were  last  there  (1857)  a  small  unfinished  log  hut,  called  Fort  Mason,  stood  upon  it. 
It  received  its  present  name  from  Vancouver  in  1792. 

VANCOUVER  ISLAND. 

NORTH  SHOBE  OF  THE  STRAIT  OP  JUAN  DE  PUCA. 

From  Point  Bonilla  to  Owen  Point,  forming  the  western  head  of  the  entrance  to  Port  San 
Juan,  the  shore  runs  13  miles  E.  J  N.  It  is  nearly  straight,  rocky  and  bluff,  with  high  moun- 
tains rising  immediately  behind  it,  and  all  heavily  wooded.  From  10  to  20  fathoms  are  found 
within  half  a  mile  from  the  shore.  Vessels  are  apt  to  lose  much  of  the  wind  when  close  undei 
either  shore,  and  at  present  it  is  impossible  to  say  where  the  strongest  currents  run. 

POET    SAN    JUAN. 

The  eastern  head  of  the  entrance  is  formed  by  several  large  rocks  called  Observatory  Bocks 
on  the  Admiralty  chart  of  1847.  From  Tatoosh  island  light  they  bear  NE.  by  N.  i  N.,  14 
miles  distant.  The  width  of  the  bay  is  1}  mile  from  point  to  point,  and  their  bearing  E.  {  S. 
and  W.  J  N.  from  each  other.  The  length  of  tlie  bay  is  3J  miles  on  a  general  course  NE.  | 
N.,  and  the  width  almost  uniform  at  Ij  mile  to  the  very  head,  where  several  streams  enter,  amongst 
which  are   Cooper  inlet  at  the  northeast,  and  the  river  Gordon  at  the  north,  where  stands  a 


128  REPORT  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

large  Indian  village,  called  Onismah.  Across  the  entrance  a  depth  of  10  fathoms  is  found, 
except  near  Observatory  Rocks,  Avhere  17  exists  close  to  them.  Outside  we  find  from  15  to  20; 
and  inside  the  bottom  is  very  regular  in  7  to  10  fathoms,  up  to  the  head,  where  it  decreases 
evenly  to  4  within  half  a  mile  of  the  shore.  The  eastern  side  has  the  least  number  of  rocks 
and  a  mid-channel  course  clears  every  thing  well.  In  heavy  southerly  Aveather  a  swell  rolls 
straight  in,  but  by  anchoring  well  up  on  either  side  vessels  avoid  it.  The  sides  are  steep, 
high,  and  backed  by  heavily  timbered  hills  and  mountains.  At  a  distance  in  very  clear  weather 
it  is  diiBcult  to  distinguish  the  entrance  unless  one  is  acquainted  with  the  locality,  but  in  mode- 
rately hazy  weather  the  indentation  is  readily  made  out. 

The  approximate  position  of  Observatory  Rocks  is: 

o       /       // 

Latitude 48  31  30  north. 

Longitude 124  28  15  west. 

Meares  first  noted  this  bay  in  his  map,  and  called  the  western  point  Point  Hawksbury.  He 
called  Bonilla  Point  Point  Duffire,  after  his  first  officer.  It  was  afterwards  examined  by  the 
Spaniards,  and  Vancouver  stretched  over  to  this  shore  and  plotted  it  on  his  chart.  It  was 
surveyed  by  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition  in  1841,  and  by  Kellett  in  1847. 

From  Observatory  Rocks  the  shore  preserves  the  same  features,  running  east  in  a  straight 
line  to  SJieringham  Point  23^  miles,  Avith  soundings  in  from  6  to  20  fathoms  a  milefrom  shore,  and 
in  some  places  10  fathoms  at  least  2  miles  ofi",  then  suddenly  dropping  into  50  and  60  fathoms. 
From  Sheringham  on  an  E.  ^  N.  course  to  Otter^  Point  the  -distance  is  4^  miles,  with  a  curve  in 
the  shore  of  one  mile,  but  the  shore  is  generally  so  uniform  in  its  character  that  it  i»  hard  to 
recognize  these  points  in  sailing  close  abreast  of  them. 

SOOKE   INLET. 

From  Sheringham  Point  to  Beechy  Head  the  distance  is  11^  miles,  and  course  E.  \  N.  The 
shore  is  varied  by  an  indentation  one  mile  deep,  called  Sooke  bay,  and  at  a  distance  of  4  miles 
from  Otter  Point  is  broken  ^by  a  very  narrow,  crooked  entrance,  which  is  Sooke  inlet.  This 
leads  to  a  large  sheet  of  water  3  miles  inland,  called  Sooke  basin.  One  mile  east  of  this  inlet 
is  a  large  islet  called  Secretary  island,  and  on  the  western  side  is  a  bright  yellow  bluff,  from 
which  makes  out  a  low  sand  spit,  NE.  for  half  a  mile  across  the  entrance.  To  the  eastward  of 
this  spit  is  the  passage,  only  100  or  200  yards  wide,  with  an  irregular  and  rocky  bottom  and 
some  sunken  rocks.  The  cvxrrents  run  through  with  great  velocity,  and  a  thorough  knowledge 
of  these  and  the  channel  is  necessary  to  enter  this  place.  When  a  depth  of  10  fathoms  is 
struck  off  the  entrance  a  high  hill  called  Mount  Maguire  will  bear  about  NE.  It  is  partially 
covered  with  trees,  but  the  bare  rock  shows  distinctly  in  many  places,  and  this  feature  now 
commences  to  distinguish  this  part  of  Vancouver  island  round  its  southeast  portion.  The 
shore  in  many  places  is  bare  and  rocky,  with  patches  of  land  covered  with  fern  and  destitute  of 
trees,  and  the  houses  of  settlers  begin  to  appear. 

Off  Beechy  Head  the  water  is  verj^  deep  and  the  currents  go  by  with  a  rush.  In  this 
vicinity  we  recollect  the  instance  of  a  cutter  striking  the  bold  shore  with  her  flying  jib-boom, 
and  only  striking  her  forefoot  after  the  jib-boom  had  been  carried  away. 

The  approximate  geographical  position  of  Beechy  Head  is: 

O         I  It 

Latitude 48  18  30  north. 

Longitude 123  39  27  west. 


THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST   SURVEY.  129 

The  pronunciation  of  Sooke  is  exactly  like  that  of  the  English  word  "soak."  The  Indian 
word  is  T'sok. 

Beecher  bay  lies  to  the  eastward  of  Beechy  Head.  Its  general  direction  is  north  for  about 
a  mile  and  a  half;  width  about  the  same,  and  the  bottom  is  rocky  and  irregular,  with  deep 
water.  Many  rocky  islets  are  found  upon  the  eastern  side  of  the  bay,  and  two  large  ones  at 
the  northern  part.  The  channel  runs  between  these  with  about  20  fathoms,  and  with  from 
7  to  10  fathoms  beyond  the  eastern  one.  The  eastern  head  is  formed  by  Cape  Church,  '  This 
bay  is  enclosed  by  high,  rocky  hills. 

RACE   ISLANDS. 

From  Beechy  Head  the  outermost  of  these  islets  bears  E.  by  N.,  distant  5  miles,  and  its 

distance  from  Bentinck  island,  close  under  the  main  shore,  is  one  mile.     This  cluster  of  islets 

numbers  about  ten  principal  ones,  which  cover  an  area  of  not  less  than  half  a  mile  square. 

They  are  low,  and  the  larger  ones  are  covered  yvith  grass,  but  are  without  trees  or  bushes. 

Stretching  SE.  for  half  a  mile,  the  bottom  is  irregular,  with  points  of  rock  in  5  fathoms.     The 

currents  rush  by  with  great  velocity  and  irregularity,  attaining  a  rate  of  6  miles  per  hour.    This 

is  a  hard  place  for  sailing  vessels  when  the  airs  are  light. 

The  approximate  geographical  position  of  the  eastern  islet  is: 

Latitude 48°  17^'  north. 

Longitude 123°  32'  west. 

It  is  of  the  utmost  importance  that  a  light-house  should  be  established  here  at  an  early  day. 

A  glance  at  the  map  will  demonstrate  this  without  calling  in  the  aid  of  local  knowledge  on  the 

subject. 

From  Race  islands  the  strait  opens  to  the  northward,  and  we  have  the  following  bearings 

and  distances  to  several  important  positions  : 

Entrance  of  Esquimault  harbor,  north 8 J  miles. 

Entrance  of  Victoria  harbor,  N.  by  E.  J  E 9        " 

Trial  islands,  NE.  by  N lOJ      " 

Discovery  island,  NE.  by  N 15        " 

New  Dungeness  light,  east 18       " 

From  Race  islands  the  shore  is  very  much  broken  to  Esquimault  harbor,  first  by  a  narrow, 

deep  indentation  called  Pedder  bay,  its  northern  point  called  William  Head  ;  then  Parry  bay 

and  Albert  Head,  and  just  before  reaching  Esquimault  a  long,  low  spit  with  a  salt  lagoon 

behind  it.     Along  this  shore  the  ebb  current  runs  with  great  strength,  the  water  being  from 

40  to  50  fathoms  deep,  and  the  general  set  on  the  Race  islands. 

Esquimault  harbor  is  the  bay  where  all  the  British  men-of-war  lie.      It  is  in  the  deepest 

part  of  the  large  indentation  called  Royal  bay.     The  entrance  is  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide,  and 

has  two  rocky  heads  on  either  hand,  the  western  having  Fishguard  island  ofiF  it,  and  the  eastern 

outlying  sunken  rocks  south  of  it,  with  several  islets.     From  the  entrance  the  general  direction 

of  the  bay  is  N.NW.,  and  the  extreme  length  two  miles.     After  passing  the  heads  the  harbor 

opens  to  the  east,  forming  a  beautiful  small  bay,  where  men-of-war  anchor  in  an  uniform  depth 

of  6  fathoms.     In  the  entrance  are  7  and  8  fathoms,  and  the  approaches  for  a  mile  give  from 

10  to  13  fathoms. 

The  approximate  geographical  position  of  Fishguard  island  is: 

Latitude 48°  25'  38"  north. 

Longitude 123     27    10   west. 

17 


130  KEPOET    OF   THE   SUPERINTENDENT   OF 

At  the  head  of  the  harbor  is  Mount  Seymour. 

Five  miles  west  of  the  head  of  Esquimault  bay  is  the  head  of  a  large  bay  coming  from  the 
north,  and  opening  into  the  inside  channel  to  the  Nahny'moh  coal  mines. 

VICTOEIA  HAEBOB. 

The  entrance  to  this  harbor  is  2^  miles  east  of  Esquimault.  As  the  channel  is  very  con- 
tracted, crooked,  and  obstructed  with  a  10-feet  bar,  vessels  usually  anchor  outside  in  10  or  15 
fathoms,  taking  care  to  avoid  Brotchy  ledge,  with  only  7  feet  water  upon  it,  lying  about  half  a 
mile  S.SE.  of  the  eastern  head  and  SW.  |  W.  from  Mount  Beacon,  upon  which  was  a  range 
with  one  on  the  shore.  We  believe,  however,  that  the  ledge  has  been  marked  by  a  spar  buoy 
since  our  visit  there.  The  channel  inside  is  well  marked  out  by  buoys,  but  a  pilot  is  necessary 
to  carry  a  vessel  in.  The  whole  length  of  the  harbor  is  about  3  or  4  miles,  with  an  average 
width  of  one-fifth  of  a  mile.  It  is  very  tortuous,  and  the  head  stretches  west  nearly  to  the 
head  of  Esquimault  bay,  where  a  portage  exists. 

The  approaches  to  the  harbor  are  deep  outside  of  Brotchy  ledge,  and  from  20  to  10  fathoms 
are  found  inside  of  it. 

The  approximate  geographical  position  of  Mount  Beacon  is : 

o        / 

Latitude 48    24^  north. 

Longitude 123    221  west. 

The  Hudson  Bay  Company  have  a  flourishing  settlement  and  trading  establishment  a  mile 
and  a  half  within  the  entrance,  and  much  of  the  surrounding  country  is  well  cultivated,  but 
the  settlement  hereabout  must  spread  toward  Esquimault,  or  upon  that  harbor,  not  only  on 
account  of  its  superior  excellence,  but  because  fresh  water  is  scarce  about  Victoria. 

The  shores  are  comparatively  low,  but  rocky,  and  covered  in  part  by  trees,  reminding  one  of 
the  rocky  parts  of  the  coast  of  Massachusetts  and  New  Hampshire, 

TEIAL   ISLANDS.""' 

These  islands  lie  4  miles  E.SE.  from  the  entrance  of  Victoria  harbor,  with  a  rocky, 
irregular,  and  moderately  low  shore.  The  islands  are  small  in  extent,  and  the  currrents  set  by 
them  with  great  velocity. 

DISCOVEEY  AND   CHATHAM   ISLANDS. 

The  former  of  these  two  islands  lies  2^  miles  off  the  southeast  point  of  Vancouver  island. 
It  is  about  a  mile  in  extent,  230  feet  high,  partially  covered  with  trees,  and  consists  of  granite 
rock,  which  shows  in  places  without  a  particle  of  vegetation. 

Northwest  of  it  and  separated  by  a  narrow  and  intricate  channel  full  of  rocks  lies  Chatham 
island,  (composed  of  several  small  islets,)  somewhat  smaller  in  extent,  and  not  so  high  as 
Discovery  island,  but  similar  in  appearance  and  formation.  Between  these  two  islands  and 
Vancouver  lies  an  extensive  bay  nearly  filled  with  rocks  and  reefs,  the  main  body  being  called 
the  Chain  islands.  Close  around  the  western  side  of  Discovery  and  Chatham  is  a  channel, 
having  from  7  to  17  fathoms;  but  it  is  only  fit  for  small  craft.  From  the  western  part  of 
Chatham  to  Codboro'  Point  the  distance  is  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile.  Numerous  rocks 
show  close  to  the  point. 


fy 


THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST   SURVEY.  131 

Tho  approximate  geographical  position  of  tbe  centre  of  the  island  is: 

Latitude 48    2G     north. 

Longitude 123    14 J  west. 

A  light-bouse  is  much  needed  upon  Discovery  island,  as  marking  the  southwest  point  of  the 
southern  entrance  to  the  Canal  de  Hnro. 
The  islands  were  named  by  Kellett  after  Vancouver's  two  ships. 

ARCHIPELAGO  DE  HARO. 

CANAL  DE   HABO. 

The  southern  entrance  to  this  strait  may  be  said  to  lie  between  Discovery  island  and  the 
point  of  Bellevue  or  San  Juan  Island,  nearly  northeast  and  7  miles  distant.  Starting  from  this 
line  and  about  three  miles  from  Discoverj-,  a  course  NW.  by  N.  for  16  miles  will  run  through 
the  first  stretch  of  the  strait;  thence  an  abrupt  turn  is  made  towards  the  eastward,  and  the 
way  out  can  be  readily  seen  between  the  islands.  Tho  next  course  is  NE.  \  E.  for  11  miles; 
finally,  N.NW.  2J  miles,  and  a  run  of  7  miles  on  that  course  will  carry  a  vessel  into  the  middle 
of  the  Gulf  of  Georgia.  i 

Commencing  at  the  starting  point,  we  have  Bellevue  island  on  the  eastward  and  pass  it  at 
the  distance  of  \\  mile.  Its  mountains  rise  to  1,070  feet,  and  some  of  them  are  only  partially 
covered  with  wood.  The  bluffs  are  very  precipitous  and  inaccessible,  and  the  depth  of  water 
close  to  them  is  as  much  as  150  fathoms.  The  greater  extent  of  the  strait  is  to  the  westward, 
stretching  off  into  bays  and  passages  among  the  islands.  Cordova  bay  is  the  only  available 
anchorage  about  this  entrance.  It  commences  at  Gordon  Head,  5^  miles  NW.  by  W.  \  W. 
from  Discovery  island;  then  stretches  westward  for  2  miles,  and  gradually  curves  to  the  N.NW., 
with  a  long  high  bluff,  broken  and  bright,  at  CowicMn  Head.*  Back  of  the  southwest  part  of 
the  bay  rises  a  bold  rockj'-topped  hill,  (called  Mount  Douglas  by  the  Coast  Survey  parties, ) 
which  reaches  a  height  of  690  feet.  Fresh  water  is  obtainable  on  the  southern  shores  of  the 
bay.  The  northern  limit  of  the  bay  is  Darcy  island,  N.  J  W.  4  miles  from  Gordon  Head,  and 
on  this  course  and  1|  miles  from  the  Head  is  Zero  Rock,' a  small  white  rock,  showing  a  few  feet 
above  water,  with  plenty  of  water  around  it,  but  foul  bottom  and  a  patch  of  kelp  a  few  hundred 
yards  N.NW.  of  it.  A  mile  and  a  quarter  west  of  it  is  a  sunken  rock.  In  the  bay  a  depth  of 
not  over  20  fathoms  is  found,  decreasing  irregularly  in  advancing,  but  in  the  southern  portion 
affording  capital  holding  ground  in  10  fathoms.  A  mile  and  a  half  B.SE.  from  Gordon  Head  are 
patches  of  kelp  and  foul  bottom 

When  8  J  miles  within  the  entrance  the  width  of  the  strait  decreases  to  3 J  miles,  having 
Darcy  island  (low  and  wooded)  on  the  west,  with  a  small  islet  off  its  NE.  face,  and  very  large 
fields  of  kelp  stretching  far  off  the  southeast  point  into  the  Canal.  In  pne  of  these  fields  we 
discovered  in  185^a  sharp  pointed  rock,  which  has  been  called  Unit  Bnck',  lying  N.  72°  E.  from 
the  SE.  point  of  Darcy  island,  and  distant  from  it  three-quarters  of  a  mile.  The  small  sharp 
apex  of  this  rock  rises  about  three  feet  above  the  very  lowest  tides.  In  tho  most  recent  charts 
deep  water  is  placed  around  it,  and  when  the  coast  surveying  brig  beat  through  the  field  the 
existence  of  this  danger  was  unknown.     Near  mid-channel  a  depth  of  155  fathoms  is  found. 

°  The  Indian  name  for  the  tribe  in  this  Tictnitjr. 


132  REPORT   OF   THE   SUPERINTENDENT    OF 

The  island  to  the  eastward,  nearly  abreast  of  Darcy,  with  a  small  cove  at  its  southern  end,  is 
Henry  idand*  having  a  high,  rocky  precipitous  front,  and  a  swirling  current  around  it. 
Further  on  and  to  the  westward  is  the  southeast  end  of  Sidney  islands,  1\  mile  northward  of 
Darcy  with  the  Dot  Rocks  between  them  but  nearer  Sidney.  This  island  is  not  high  like  those 
on  the  other  side  of  the  channel,  and  a  landing  is  easily  made  at  any  point.  The  channel  here, 
10  miles  from  the  entrance,  is  2|  miles  wide.  To  the  eastward  it  opens  beyond  the  north  end 
of  Henry  island,  with  high  mountainous  islands  bounding  the  view.  To  the  westward  lie  a 
couple  of  long  narrow  islands  a  mile  from  Sidney,  and  between  them  and  the  latter  is  good 
anchorage  and  capital  fishing  ground  for  halibut.  The  moderately  low  wooded  islands  3  or  4 
miles  ahead,  and  on  the  western  side  of  the  channel,  have  not  been  named.  Between  them 
runs  the  inside  channel  for  steamers  to  the  Nahnymoh  coal  mines.  The  background  of  the 
view  is  occupied  by  wooded  islands,  overlapping  each  other  and  appearing  like  a  continuous 
shore.  The  large  high  island  on  the  eastern  side,  15  miles  from  the  entrance  is  Stuart  island* 
and  the  Canal  is  here  contracted  to  a  breadth  of  only  two  miles,  this  being  the  narrowest 
part.  In  this  pass  no  bottom  was  found  with  165  fathoms  of  line.  Stuart  island  in  many  places 
is  very  high  and  precipitous,  and  covered  with  timber,  but  in  some  parts  sparsely.  Near  its 
southwest  head  a  perpendicular  wall  of  rock  serves  also  to  distinguish  it.  After  passing  the 
western  end  of  this  island  at  the  distance  of  a  mile,  the  channel  takes  an  abrupt  turn  to  the 
eastward,  and  the  Gulf  of  Georgia  is  seen.  The  course  now  is  NE.  ^  E.  for  11  miles,  having 
on  the  northwest  side  Saturna  island,  which  rises  into  mountains.  Java  Head*  near  its 
eastern  extremity,  stands  up  perpendicularly  many  hundred  feet,  but  the  extreme  part,  called 
East  Point*  is  a  long  sloping  point,  in  many  places  destitute  of  trees.  The  small  island 
lying  off  its  north  shore  is  Tumbo.* 

On  the  east  side  the  waters  open  well  to  the  southeast,  and  the  islands  rise  in  high  hills  and 
mountains.  The  large  island  abreast  of  Java  Head  is  Waldron,  *  which  has  good  anchorage 
off  its  southwest  side,  where  the  shore-line  curves  well  in.  The  western  point  is  low  and  sandy; 
the  southern,  called  Point  Disney*  is  perpendicular,  high  and  rocky.  Off  its  northern  face 
lie  two  islets,  called  Skipjack  islands*  The  western  one  is  about  a  mile  from  Waldron, 
moderately  high,  and  wooded;  the  eastern  is  smaller,  about  40  feet  high,  destitute  of  trees, 
but  covered  with  grass,  and  lies  a  mile  east  of  the  former.  Between  these  lies  a  sunken  rock, 
and  the  current  rushes  by  with  great  velocity. 

On  some  recent  maps  two  islands,  called  Adolphus  and  George,  are  laid  down  close  to  the 
Skipjacks,  but  in  1853  we  examined  the  vicinity  and  satisfied  ourselves  that  they  did  not  then 
exist. 

When  East  Point  bears  NW.  by  W.  |  W.  2  miles  distant,  the  west  end  oi  Patos  island,  f  will 
bear  N.NE.  2 J  miles,  and  the  west  end  of  the  Si^ia  Group,-]:  E.NE.  85  miles;  the  course  out 
lying  N.NW.  between  Patos  and  East  Point,  which  are  2|  miles  apart.  Seven  miles  on  this 
course  carries  to  the  middle  of  the  Gulf  of  Georgia.^  Close  ofl'East  Point  is  found  a  depth  of 
120  fathoms,  and  off  Patos  island  170  fathoms.  All  these  islands  are  moderately  high  and 
covered  with  wood.  They  are  rugged  and  irregular,  composed  of  sandstone  and  conglomerate, 
upheaved  until  the  strata  are  nearly  perpendicular  in  some  places,  and  interspersed  with  small 
veins  of  lignite. 

°  Named  by  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition,  1841. 

f  Old  Spanish  name. 

t  Named  by  Vancouver  in  1792. 


THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST   SURVEY.  138 

The  approximate  geographical  position  of  two  or  three  points  will  serve  to  check  the  courses 
above  given :  ,        • 

East  point  of  Discovery  island— latitude  48°  25'  N.,  longitude  123°  14,  W. 

West  point  of  Stuart  island— latitude  48°  41'  11".  5  N.,  longitude  123°  14'  29".  6  W. 

West  point  of  Patos  island— latitude  48°  4T  03"  N.,  longitude  122°  57'  31".2  W. 

The  number  of  islands  and  the  intricate  channels  lying  between  the  two  straits  we  shall  not 
attempt  to  describe.  A  proper  appreciation  of  them  can  only  be  obtained  from  the  chart. 
The  position  of  the  islands  are  shown  on  sketches  issued  from  the  Coast  Survey  Office  in  1854 
and  1858. 

Returning  to  the  Strait  of  Fuca  to  enter  the  Rosario  strait,  we  notice,  first,  Smith' a  island, 
lying  at  the  eastern  termination  of  the  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  within  6  miles  of  Whidbey  island 
and  7  miles  broad  oflf  the  southern  entrance  to  the  Rosario  strait.  It  is  quite  small,  not 
occupying  half  a  square  mile,  and  rises  regularly  from  the  eastern  to  the  western  extremity, 
where  it  attains  a  height  of  about  55  feet,  with  an  almost  perpendicular  clifi"  of  clay  and  gravel. 
It  sustains  a  few  droarj-  looking  trees,  but  none  of  great  thickness  or  height,  and  the  surface 
is  covered  with  a  growth  of  bushes  ten  or  twelve  feet  high.  There  is  no  fresh  water  to  be  found 
on  the  island,  and  two  or  three  feet  below  the  surface  is  a  stratum  of  hard  dry  clay  wth  pebbles. 

A  very  small,  low  islet  called  Minor,  exists  one  mile  northeast  of  Smith' s  island,  and  at  very 
low  tides  is  connected  with  it  by  a  narrow  ridge  of  boulders  and  rocks.  A  field  of  kelp  extends 
to  the  westward  for  1 J  mile,  and  has  a  width  of  a  mile.  In  sailing  through  this  field  we  found 
the  depth  of  water  very  uniform  at  6^  fathoms,  and  in  no  place  did  we  get  less.  The  bottom 
is  hard  and  sandy.  Another  smaller  field  is  seen  to  the  westward  of  the  one  just  mentioned. 
Good  anchorage  is  found  on  the  north  side  of  the  island,  east  of  the  kelp,  in  from  10  to  5 
fathoms,  and  on  the  south  side,  east  of  the  kelp,  in  from  10  to  8  fathoms,  hard  bottom.  We 
parted  our  cable  here  in  a  southeast  gale,  but  the  smooth  sandy  bottom  enabled  us  afterwards 
to  secure  the  anchor.  Ofi"  the  eastern  end  of  the  small  islet  very  deep  water  is  found  close 
to  it. 

The  light-house  on  Smith's  island  is  a  structure  consisting  of  a  keeper's  dwelling,  with  a 
tower  rising  through  it,  and  surmounted  by  an  iron  lantern  painted  red.  Its  height  is  41^  feet 
above  the  snrface  of  the  ground  and  about  90  feet  above  the  mean  level  of  the  sea.  The 
dwelling  and  tower  are  plastered  and  whitewashed,  and  situated  on  the  highest  part  of  the 
island,  near  the  southwest  point.  All  the  trees  have  been  cut  down,  to  afi'ord  a  clear  horizon 
in  every  direction.  The  illuminating  apparatus  is  of  the  fourth  order  of  Fresnel,  shows  a 
revolving  white  light,  with  a  flash  every  half  minute,  and  should  be  seen  from  a  height  of — 

10  feet  at  a  distance  of  14^  miles. 
20  "  "         16      " 

30  *'  "         17       " 

It  was  first  exhibited  on  the  18th  of  October,  1858,  and  shows  from  sunset  to  sunrise. 

The  approximate  geographical  position  of  the  light,  as  determined  by  the  Coast  Survey,  is: 

O         I         II 

Latitude 48  19  R"  nortli. 

Longitude 122  50  01  west. 

A.      m.       I. 

Or,  in  time 8    11    20.1 

The  light  shows  into  the  entrances  of  Canal  de  Haro,  Rosario  strait,  and  Admiralty  Inlet, 
and  out  into  the  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca. 


134  REPORT  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OP 

The  following  bearings  and  distances  will  show  the  relative  position  of  Smith' s  island : 

From  Diicovery  island  it  lies East  16^  miles. 

From  New  Dungeness  light-house NE.  by  N.    13|      " 

From  Point  Wilson NW.  ^  N.     11        " 

Prom  southwest  point  of  the  entrance  to  Rosario  strait  •  •  •  •  S.  ^  E.  6f        " 

On  the  maps  of  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition  it  is  called  Blunt' s  island;  but  it  is 
now  known  by  the  name  we  have  used,  which  is  also  that  given  on  the  Admiralty  charts. 

Fields  of  kelp. — Three  miles  S.  -J  E.  of  Smith's  island  is  a  field  of  kelp  over  a  mile  long 
by  a  mile  wide.  Through  it  the  soundings  range  from  6  to  12  fathoms,  and  the  bank  stretches 
off  to  the  E.SE.  for  two  miles,  with  10  and  12  fathoms  upon  it.  This  locality  requires  sounding 
out,  as  it  would  prove  a  great  advantage  for  vessels  drifting  at  the  mercy  of  the  currents  to 
know  of  the  existence  of  such  anchoring  grounds.  The  detailed  hydrography  of  all  this  sheet 
of  water  eastward  of  the  Race  islands  will  develop  many  interesting  features  of  bottom. 

Bearing  W.  ^  S.  from  Smith's  island,  and  eight  miles  distant,  is  another  field  of  kelp  nearly  a 
mile  in  extent.  We  came  unexpectedly  upon  it  at  night,  in  1854,  during  a  heavy  blow,  with 
rain.  It  was  not  then  marked  on  any  chart.  Next  morning  we  sounded  through  it,  and  found 
the  depth  of  water  very  uniform  at  5  fathoms. 

The  field  laid  down  on  the  Admiralty  chart — nearly  on  this  course,  and  four  miles  from 
Smith's  island,  having  only  2  fathoms  marked  upon  it — has  been  sought  for,  but  not  found. 

One  mile  south  of  the  southeastern  point  of  Bellevue  island,  and  8^  miles  NW.  by  W.  ^  W. 
from  Smith' s  island,  lies  a  small  field  of  kelp  about  half  a  mile  square,  with  3  fathoms  marked 
upon  it;  but  we  have  been  informed  that  the  Hudson  Bay  Company's  steamer  Otter  found  as 
little  as  6  feet  of  water  with  its  limits. 

All  these  fields  and  patches  of  kelp  should  be  avoided,  as  they  denote  rocky  bottom;  and 
isolated  points  of  rocks  frequently  exist  among  them  and  escape  even  a  very  scrutinizing 
survey. 

Shoals. — E.  by  N.  5|  miles  from  Discovery  island,  and  S.  by  W.  ^  W.  4^  miles  from  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company's  settlement  on  Bellevue  island,  is  an  11-fathom  shoal  a  mile  or  two  in 
extent;  but  the  very  few  soundings  upon  it  leave  the  precise  extent  and  smallest  depth  of  water 
doubtful. 

NE.  ^  N.  7^  miles  from  Race  islands,  and  SE.  by  S.  4  miles  from  the  entrance  to  Victoria 
harbor,  are  a  couple  of  spots  showing  13  and  14  fathoms. 

Off  Point  Partridge*  (the  western  head  of  Whidbey  island)  is  a  10-fathom  bank,  with  muddy 
bottom.    We  have  run  across  it  and  found  this  depth,  but  the  locality  has  not  been  sounded  out. 

ROSARIO   STRAIT. 

This  is  the  eastern  of  the  two  principal  channels  running  through  the  Archipelago  de  Haro, 
between  Vancouver  island  and  the  main.  Its  southern  entrance  lies  N.  by  E.,  distant  7  miles 
from  Smith's  island,  and  is  4^  miles  wide.  The  western  point  of  the  entrance  is  formed  by  a 
point  running  out  from  Watmough  Head,\  which  is  450  feet  high  and  on  the  southeast  part  of 
Lopez  island.  Off  this  point  lie  several  rocky  islets,  with  deep  water  among  them  and  a  rushing 
current.  The  outer,  orv^outheast  island,  is  about  50  feet  high,  rocky,  flat-topped,  destitute  of 
bush  or  tree,  narrow,  and  about  one-third  of  a  mile  in  length,  east  and  west.     S.  83°  E.  from 

°  Named  by  Vancouver,  1792. 
t  Named  by  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition,  1841. 


THE   UNITED  STATES  COAST   8UBVBY.  185 

it,  at  a  distance  of  half  a  mile,  lies  Entrance  Sock,  possibly  bare  at  the  lowest  tides.  A.  patcb 
of  kelp  exists  upou  and  around  it,  but  the  kelp  is  goncrally  run  under  the  surface  of  the  water 
by  the  strength  of  the  current.     Wo  discovered  this  rock  in  1854. 

The  whole  southern  face  of  Lopez  island  is  guarded  by  rocks  and  reefs.  The  island  itself  is 
very  rocky  and  moderately  low. 

On  the  eastern  side  of  the  entrance  is  a  small  wooded  islet  called  Deception  island,  at  the 
mouth  o[  Deception  pass \*  an  intricate  and  very  narrow  3-fathom  channel,  3  miles  long,  running 
between  the  north  end  of  Whidbey  island  and  the  south  end  of  Fidalgo  island.  In  1841  the 
United  States  brig  Bainbridge  passed  through  it  from  the  eastward.  It  is  the  Boca  de  Flon  of 
Quimper,  1790,  but  is  now  known  onlj-  by  the  apt  designation  given  above. 

In  the  middle  of  the  entrance  to  Rosario  strait  Vancouver  anchored  in  37  fathoms,  black 
muddy  bottom,  in  1792. 

When  at  the  entrance,  and  1^  mile  from  the  western  side,  a  line  will  pass  clear  of  everj'thing 
from  one  end  of  the  strait  to  the  other.  This  course  is  N.  by  W.  i  W.,  distant  19^  miles  to 
the  north  entrance.  It  passes  between  Bird  and  Belle  Rocks,  and  almost  tangent  to  Point 
Lawrence,  on  Orcas  island.  Taking  the  courses  through  the  mid-channel  we  should  have  the 
following:  NW.  by  N.  |  N.  for  llj  miles;  N.  by  E.  |  E.  for  3|  miles;  and  NW.  I  W.  for  6^ 
miles — making  a  total  of  20^  miles. 

The  first  two  miles  on  the  western  side  is  moderately  high,  declining  to  a  point,  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  off  which  lies  Kellett's  ledge,  bare  at  the  lowest  tides,  and  having  deep  water  all  aroimd 
it.  The  ledge  is  marked  by  a  mass  of  kelp.  Thence  the  shore  makes  a  deep  bend  for  a  mile 
to  the  westward,  with  a  low  beach  and  marsh,  over  which  Lopez  bay  can  be  seen.  This  bend 
is  called  Shoal  bight,  and  has  from  6  to  10  fathoms  for  a  mile  out,  with  level  sandy  bottom.  In 
mid-channel  rise  the  Bird  Bocks,*  about  40  feet  high,  consisting  of  three  small  rocky  islets  very 
close  together,  and  running  in  a  north  direction.  They  are  somewhat  pyramidal  in  form,  and 
during  the  summer  show  yellowish,  on  account  of  the  parched  grass  and  the  color  of  the  rocks. 
Abreast  of  them,  on  the  western  side,  is  a  narrow  opening  between  two  low  rockj'  heads  of 
Lopez  and  Decatur  islands.*  Inside  is  a  line  of  islets  ranging  from  the  north  head,  and  making 
the  channel  nm  towards  the  south.  This  barrier  is  called  the  Lopez  Chain,  and  the  entrance 
the  Lopez  Pass.  Several  large  islands  are  found  inside.  Vancouver's  boats  evidently  were  in 
this  bay,  aa  his  chart  gives  a  good  general  idea  of  it.  The  anchorage  of  Shoal  bight  continues 
some  distance  northward  of  this  opening,  and  abreast  of  some  moderately  high  white  bluffs. 
N.NE.  three-quarters  of  a  mile  from  Bird  Rocks  lies  Belle  Bockyf  directly  in  mid-channel, 
making  a  very  dangerous  position.  It  shows  4  feet  above  the  very  lowest  tides,  and  is  covered 
by  a  patch  of  kelp,  which  is,  however,  generally  run  under  by  the  strength  of  the  currents. 
The  rip  upou  it  can  sometimes  be  seen  when  the  water  is  smooth,  but  with  light  winds  and 
high  tides  its  existence  would  not  be  stispected.  On  all  sides  of  it  the  water  is  very  deep. 
The  extent  of  rock  above  water  is  about  20  feet  square.  We  discovered  this  danger  in  1854, 
and  while  placing  »  signal  upon  it  noticed  that  the  tide  rose  nearly  IJ  foot  while  the  current 
was  yet  running  ebb  at  the  rate  of  3  miles  an  hour.  Between  it  and  the  Bird  Rocks  there  is  a 
submarine  ridge  with  plenty  of  water,  but  marked  by  strong  eddies.  The  steamship  Republic 
lately  ran  upon  this  rock,  and  more  recently  the  pilot-boat  Potter. 

After  passing  Deception  island  on  the  east  the  face  of  Fidalgo  island  is  high,  precipitous, 

o  Named  by  the  United  BUtM  Ezploriog  Expedition, 
t  Named  by  the  United  Stetw  Ooact  Surrey,  1864. 


136  KEPOET  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

and  bare  for  two  or  three  miles  in  a  northwest  direction.  This  is  called  Sares  Head.*  It  then 
sweeps  to  the  north,  changing  to  the  westward  until  abreast  of  and  two  miles  from  Belle  Rock. 
In  this  deep  bay,  and  lying  well  off  shore,  are,  first,  Williamson's  Bocks,*  a  cluster  of  rocky 
islets  about  40  feet  high,  with  deep  water  close  around  them.  From  Deception  island  they 
bear  NW.  |  W.  3  miles  distant,  and  from  Southeast  island  off  Watmough  Head,  NE.  5  miles. 
Half  a  mile  northward  of  them  is  AUan  island,*  which  is  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  extent, 
and  about  200  feet  high,  with  its  southern  face  partly  bare.  A  quarter  of  a  mile  off  its  SW. 
face  lies  the  Denis  Bock.*     This  is  never  bare,  but  its  position  is  marked  by  a  patch  of  kelp. 

North  of  Allan  island,  and  separated  from  it  by  a  channel  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide,  is 
Burrow's  island,*  1^  mile  long  SE.  and  NW.  by  half  a  mile  in  width.  The  island  is  several 
hundred  feet  high  and  has  a  remarkably  flat  top,  is  wooded,  and  may  be  seen  from  the  Strait  of 
Fuca.  At  the  eastern  end  of  the  passage,  between  the  last  two  islands,  is  a  small  one  called 
Young  island.*  Through  all  the  channels  formed  by  these  islands  a  good  depth  of  water  exists, 
and  no  dangers  have  been  discovered. 

The  breadth  of  Rosario  strait  at  Belle  Rock  is  i\  miles ;  but  it  is  soon  contracted  by  Janve^ 
island*  on  the  western  side,  and  opens  into  a  channel  N.NE.  called  the  Bdlingham  channel,  f 
which  is  about  2  miles  wide  at  its  entrance.  A  small  channel  runs  from  it  more  to  the  eastward 
along  the  north  shore  of  Fidalgo  island,  and  leads  into  Padilla  bay.  Upon  Fidalgo  rises  Mount 
Erie*  to  a  height  of  1, 250  feet,  covered  with  woods,  and  presenting  a  flat  appearance  from 
certain  directions.  James'  island  consists  of  two  heads  a  mile  apart  and  250  feet  high,  but 
connected  by  a  narrow  ridge.  The  southern  head  is  the  higher,  and  not  very  heavily  tim- 
bered. Close  to  the  west  of  the  ridge  lies  another  head,  connected  with  Decatur  island  by  a 
low  sand  beach. 

Just  beyond  James'  island  is  an  opening  on  the  west  between  Decatur  island  and  Blakely 
island,*  and  on  the  east  half,  a  mile  up  the  strait,  appears  the  SW.  point  of  Cypress  island,* 
off  which  lie  rocks  and  foul  bottom  for  half  a  mile  on  a  line  to  Burrow's  island.  Around  this 
locality  extends  a  large  body  of  kelp.  The  southern  face  of  Cypress  island  consists  of  alternate 
perpendicular  white  cliffs,  and  sloping  ground  covered  with  fern  or  trees.  On  its  western  side, 
and  Ij  mile  from  the  southwest  point  is  found  a  snug  little  harbor  called  Strawberry  hay,X  which 
is  formed  by  the  retreating  of  the  shore-line,  and  an  outlying  rocky  islet  called  Strawberry  or 
Hautboy  island.*  In  this  bay  excellent  anchorage  is  found  in  from  6  to  10  fathoms,  muddy 
bottom.  Good  fresh  water  is  plenty  here.  A  high  white  cliff  is  seen  to  the  south  of  the 
harbor,  from  the  shores  of  which  rise  rapidly  the  Lake  mountains,  §  to  an  elevation  of  1,525  feet, 
and  among  whose  peaks  we  found  two  large  sheets  of  fresh  water.  These  peaks  are  very 
noticeable  from  the  Strait  of  Fuca,  and  being  connected  by  comparatively  low  ridges  with  other 
hills  on  the  island  they  present  a  saddle-like  appearance  from  the  southward  and  westward. 

Abreast  of  Strawberry  island  the  channel  contracts  to  a  width  of  l^  mile,  where  the  bold 
rocky  face  of  Blakely  island  rises  to  a  height  of  between  900  and  1,000  feet.  Nearly  half  a 
mile  SE.  from  its  east  face  lies  a  very  small  low  rock  called  Blaak  Bock,  and  half  way  between 
it  and  the  south  end  of  the  island  is  a  wMte  rock,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  shore.  In  this 
narrow  part  of  the  strait  the  depth  of  water  is  about  60  fathoms,  and  the  current  goes  through 

o  Named  by  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition,  1841. 

f  The  Indian  name  ig  Tut-segh. 

X  Named  by  Vancouver,  1792.     The  Indian  name  is  Tutl-ke-teh-nug. 

§  Named  by  the  United  States  Coast  Survey,  1854. 


THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST   SUBVEV.  137 

with  a  roar  like  tho  sonnd  of  a  gale  of  wind  through  a  forest.  When  at  anchor  in  10  fathoms, 
under  the  low  point  IJ  mile  north  of  Strawberry  island,  wo  found  tho  current  4  miles  per  hour, 
and  swirling  so  much  that  tho  vessel  had  to  be  steered  to  prevent  her  breaking  her  sheer. 
Thenco  on  tho  strait  widens  upward,  and  at  tho  north  end  of  Blakely,  2  miles  above  Strawberry 
island,  two  channels  load  to  tho  westward  around  Obstruction  island,*  which  lies  between 
Blakely  and  Orcas  islands.  Both  are  narrow,  and  off  the  entrance  to  the  south  lie  some  sunken 
rocks,  and  others  above  water.  Blakely  island  and  Orcjis  island  are  three-quarters  of  a  milo 
apart. 

When  in  the  narrowest  part  of  Rosario  strait,  a  very  marked  perpendicular  rocky  peak  is 
seen  to  tho  north  over  the  low  point  of  Cypress,  and  soon  shows  rising  abruptly  from  tho 
water's  edge  to  a  height  of  750  feet.  It  is  called  Bald  Pcak.t  Abreast  of  it  the  channel 
takes  the  first  turn,  changing  its  course  to  N.  by  E.  J  E.,  for  3|  miles.  Half  a  mile  off  tho 
north  end  of  Cypress  island  is  a  small  islet  covered  with  trees  ai.d  called  Rock  island. t  NW. 
of  it  are  some  sunken  rocks,  but  their  exact  position  is  not  accurately  known.  The  compara- 
tively low  island  half  a  mile  N.NE.  of  Cypress  is  Sinclair  island,*  the  highest  part  of  which  is 
towards  the  eastern  end.  Off  tho  northwest  face  of  Sinclair  island,  and  stretching  half  a  mile, 
is  Boulder  Reef,t  visible  at  extreme  low  tides.  It  is  covered  with  kelp,  which  is,  however, 
generally  kept  under  the  surface  of  the  water  by  strong  currents.  A  huge  erratic  granite 
boulder  is  seen  at  ordinary  tides  inside  of  the  outer  point  of  the  reef,  and  bears  from  it  S.  70*^ 
E.,  distant  500  yards.  From  the  western  point  of  the  island  the  reef  bears  exactly  north, 
distant  three-quarters  of  a  milo.  The  revenue  cutter  Jefferson  Davis  and  the  steamship 
Panama  have  been  upon  it  since  we  discovered  it  in  1854.  On  the  north  side  of  the  island  is 
anchorage  in  10  to  15  fathoms  half  a  mile  off  shore. 

Three  miles  from  Sinclair  island  lies  Orcas,  on  tho  northwest  side  of  the  strait.  It  is  a  largo 
island,  with  a  mountain  1,120  feet  high  near  its  southern  end.  The  point  stretching  furthest 
and  coming  down  to  the  water  is  Point  Lawrence,*  and  tlio  low,  treeless  islets  and  reef  passed 
IJ  mile  before  reaching  this  point,  and  lying  over  half  a  mile  off  shore,  are  the  Poapods.* 
Deep  water  is  found  close  to  them.  When  upon  this  same  mid-channel  course,  the  island  ahead 
is  Lummi  UHand.%  Its  southern  half  is  very  much  higher  than  the  northern,  and  attains  an 
elevation  of  1,560  feet.  The  rock  nearly  100  feet  high  off  tho  highest  part  of  the  ridge,  and 
a  third  of  a  mile  from  shore,  is  the  Lummi  Rock,X  and  a  capital  bout  harbor  is  found  on  its 
northwest  side.  A  mile  off  its  south  end  are  the  Viti  Rocks,*  about  25  feet  high,  with  plenty 
of  water  around  them. 

Abreast  of  Point  Lawrence  the  channel  is  over  3  miles  wide,  and  it  there  changes  to  NW.  \ 
W.  for  6J  miles  to  a  line  joining  the  Mntia  group  with  the  north  end  of  Lummi  island.  From 
Point  Lawrence,  along  the  north  face  of  Orcas,  the  shore  is  rocky  and  precipitous,  and  rises  by 
two  or  throe  plateaux  to  Mount  Constitution,*  which  is  less  than  a  mile  in-shore,  and  2,397  feet 
high.  The  course  out  passes  on  tho  west  some  small  rocky  islets  called  The  Sisters,*  marked 
by  one  or  two  stunted  fir  trees;  then  Clark's  island*  and  Barnes'  island,*  close  under  its  western 
side,  leaving  a  channel  a  mile  wide  between  it  and  the  north  shore  of  Orcas,  with  very  deep 

'Named  by  the  United  SUitt  Exploring  Expedition,  1841. 

t  Named  by  the  Coaat  Survey  in  1854.  The  Indian  name  for  Bald  Peak  is  Sheh-ong-Uh,  dgniiying  the  home  of  the 
Thunder  bird. 

{Named  by  the  Ooaat  Surrey  in  1864. 

{  Named  by  the  United  Stetea  Coait  Survey,  1853. 

18 


138  REPORT   OF   THE    SUPERINTENDENT    OF 

water  and  no  anchorage.  Abreast  of  Clark's  island,  or  Lummi  island,  is  a  contracted  anchorage 
and  shelter  from  northerly  winds  under  a  low  point  called  Village  Point.*  The  anchorage  is 
in  10  to  15  fathoms,  but  there  is  no  fresh  water,  and  the  large  Indian  village  is  now  deserted. 
After  passing  this  point,  anchorage  may  be  obtained  half  a  mile  from  shore  in  from  8  to  15 
fathoms.  Close  to  Clark's  and  Barnes'  islands  the  depth  is  50  and  60  fathoms,  and  a  very 
strong  current  runs  near  them.  The  channel  between  Village  Point  and  these  islands  is  two 
miles  wide. 

W.  SW.  of  the  north  end  of  Lummi  island,  and  4  miles  distant,  are  three  islands  very  close 
together,  called  the  Matia  group.  A  mile  and  a  half  to  the  westward  of  them  lies  the  Sucia 
group,  consisting  of  one  large  and  six  small  islands,  with  a  reef  off  the  north  side  of  the  group, 
and  a  beautiful  harbor  a  mile  long  and  half  a  mile  wide,  opening  to  the  east,  and  carrying  from 
10  to  15  fathoms  sticky  mud  bottom,  t  To  the  westward  of  this  group  lies  Patos  island,  and  a 
much  smaller  one  close  to  its  SW.  point.  The  eastern  point  of  Patos  island  bears  W.  |  S.,  9 
miles  from  the  north  end  of  Lummi.  Two  or  three  miles  N.NE.  of  Lummi  island  opens  a  shoal 
bay,  backed  by  low  marshy  ground  which  is  covered  with  trees  and  swamp  undergrowth.  Into 
it  empties  one  or  two  mouths  of  the  Lummi  river.  The  main  entrance  of  that  stream  is  at  the 
north  part  of  the  bay,  and  can  be  reached  with  boats  only  at  high  tide.  The  NW,  boundary 
of  the  bay  is  a  low  grassy  point  with  a  few  bushes  upon  it,  called  Sandy  Point. X  From  the 
north  point  of  Lummi  island  it  bears  N.  by  W.  ^  W.,  distant  2|  miles.  Between  these  two  points 
anchorage  is  had  in  from  4  to  6  fathoms,  but  the  south  end  of  Sandy  Point  should  not  be 
approached  within  less  than  half  a  mile.  Down  the  east  side  of  Lummi  island,  which  is  about 
a  mile  in  breadth,  runs  Hale' s  Passage,  J  three  quarters  of  a  mile  wide.  It  leads  from  Bellingham 
bay.  In  this  passage  1^  mile,  and  bearing  E.  by  S.  ^  S.  from  the  north  end  of  Lummi  island, 
is  a  low  sandy  point,  upon  which  was  established  in  1853  a  secondary  astronomical  station  of  the 
United  States  Coast  Survey.     Its  geographical  position  is — 

O  I  II 

Latitude 48     44     01.7  north. 

Longitude 122     40     36.9  west. 

h.       m.         a. 

Or,  in  time 8     10     42.5. 

This  would  place  the  north  end  of  Lummi  island  in — 

O  /  II 

Latitude 48     44     53.2  north. 

Longitude 122     42     11.9  west. 

The  following  geographical  positions  will  serve  to  check  the  courses  and  distances  we  have 
given: 

Matia  island,  east,  latitude       48°  44'  36".  8  north. 
"      longitude  122°  48'  28".  6  west. 
South  end  of  Strawberry  island,  latitude       48°  33'  34''.  3  north. 

longitude  122°  43' 26".  7  west. 
SE.  island,  off  Lopez  island,  latitude       48°  24'  53".  3  north. 

longitude  122°  48'  33".9  west. 
Shoal. — From  the  north  point  of  Lummi  an  extensive  5-fathom  shoal  bears  W.  by  N.  5  N. 

"  Named  by  the  tJnitcd  States  Coast  Survey,  1854. 

■f  Partially  examined  by  a  Coast  Survey  party  in  1858. 

t  Named  by  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition,  1841. 


THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST   SURVEY.  139 

5J  miles,  and  NW.  by  N.  J  N.  S.J  miles  from  tlio  eastern  of  the  Matia  group.  It  lies  upon  the 
last  direct  course  out  of  the  strait,  but  has  not  been  completely  sounded  out.  Within  tho 
15-fathom  curve  it  is  at  least  two  miles  square,  and  may  bo  used  when  a  vessel  loses  the  wind 
and  has  a  strong  adverse  current;  but  the  swirls  and  eddies  upon  and  around  it  will  bo  very 
apt  to  foul  any  anchor. 

From  about  its  middle  part  wo  have  tho  following  bearings  of  prominent  objects: 

Eastern  of  Matia  group,  SE.  by  S.  J  S.  3J  miles. 

North  point  of  Lammi  island,  E.  by  S.  ^  S.  5^  miles. 

NW.  point  of  Sucia  group,  with  tho  wooded  island  of  the  Skipjacks  just  open,  SW.  J  S.  4 
miles. 

This  position  will  bring  tho  west  side  of  Clark's  island  just  on  with  Point  Lawrence. 

The  shoal  was  discovered  by  tho  United  States  Coast  Survey  in  1853. 

In  1857  wo  attempted  to  reach  this  bank  four  or  five  times,  from  an  anchorage  off  Uale's 
Passage,  with  light  airs,  but  tho  cnrrent.s  invariably  swept  us  away  from  it.  Recently  it  has 
been  anchored  upon  by  the  United  States  Coast  .Surveying  brig. 

Once  in  the  Gulf  of  Georgia,  through  either  channel,  the  throe-mile  face  and  timber-covered 
bluffs  of  Point  Roberts*  (showing  almost  as  an  island)  is  seen  to  the  northwest.  On  the  west 
the  mountains  of  Vancouver  and  its  bordering  islands  rise  np  precipitously,  and  on  tho  eastern 
or  main  shore  a  series  of  wooded  cliffs  200  feet  high.  Far  to  the  eastward  tho  Cascade  Range 
is  seen  rising  above  intermediate  ridges,  with  the  snow-covered  summit  of  Mount  Baker,  t  which 
bears  its  head  10,500  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  To  the  W.NW.  stretch  tho  waters  of 
tho  Gulf  of  Georgia,  9  miles  wide,  abreast  of  Point  Roberts,  where  it  is  narrowest,  but  spreading 
out  to  20  miles  and  having  a  length  of  120.  A  short  distance  above  tho  49th  parallel  it  receives 
Fraser's  river,  (the  third  groat  stream  of  tho  northwest  coast,)  tho  branches  of  which  spread 
towards  the  Cascade  Range  of  mountains. 

GULF  OF  GEORGiA.t 

If  bound  up  the  Gulf,  hold  well  to  the  eastern  shore  to  avoid  the  rushing  currents,  and  to  take 
the  chances  of  an  anchorage  if  the  wind  fails. 

From  Sandy  Point  to  Point  WhUeliorn*  the  general  trend  of  the  shore  is  NW.  \  W.,  and  tho 
distance  7  miles.  The  shore  is  a  steep  bluff,  about  150  feet  high,  and  covered  with  wood.  At 
Whitehorn  the  face  of  the  point  is  worn  away  by  the  action  of  the  sea,  and  shows  bright,  with 
rocks  at  its  base. 

BIBCH  BAT. 

The  southern  point  of  this  fine  bay  is  Point  Whitehorn,  and  the  northwest  shore  is  formed 
by  a  long  rounding  high  bluff,  bearing  about  NW.  from  Whitehorn,  and  distant  3  miles.  The 
bay  runs  N.NE.  2.J  miles,  with  a  width  of  IJ.  The  bottom  is  very  uniform,  with  capital  holding 
ground  of  soft  mud  in  from  4  to  10  fathoms.  Inside  tho  immediate  shores  are  low,  and  edged 
with  marshy  patches,  thick  undergrowth,  and  heavy  wood.  No  directions  are  ne<;e8sary  for 
entering,  as  there  is  a  depth  of  16  to  20  fathoms  a  mile  outside,  and  10  fathoms  water  on  the 
line  of  the  entrance.  During  the  heaviest  southeast  weather  no  swell  is  felt  here  in  a 
properly  selected  anchorage.  We  searched  for  fresh  water,  but  found  none  in  the  space  of  more 
than  a  mile  along  its  southeastern  side. 

o  Named  by  the  United  SUto*  Exploring  Expoclltion,  1841. 
t  Nuned  \tj  Vanconrer,  1792. 


140  REPORT  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

The  approximate  geographical  position  of  Point  Whitehorn  is — 

o       / 

Latitude 48  53^  north. 

Longitude 122  47^  west. 

It  received  its  present  name  in  1792  from  Vancouver,  who  placed  it  in  latitude  48°  SS^'. — 
(See  Vol.  1,  pp.  315,  316.) 

This  is  the  furthest  point  northward  to  which  our  personal  examinations  have  extended. 

Passing  the  bluff  NW.  of  Birch  bay  the  shore  trends  about  N.NE.  for  nearly  3  miles,  and 
terminates  in  a  long,  low,  sandy  point,  behind  which  lies  a  small  land-locked  harbor,  having  a 
depth  of  10  fathoms  inside.  The  approaches  to  it,  however,  do  not  show  over  5  fathoms  at  a 
distance  of  a  mile  from  the  shore,  and  the  same  depth  is  found  on  gradually  nearihg  the  end  of 
the  low  point.  The  southeast  shore  of  the  harbor  is  flat  and  marshy,  and  is  not  separated  by 
much  more  than  a  mile  from  Birch  bay. 

In  this  harbor  the  United  States  and  British  steamers  attached  to  the  Northwestern  Bound- 
ary Survey  were  accustomed  to  anchor  (1857.)  The  American  commissioner  encamped  on  the 
bluff  about  a  mile  north  of  the  boundary,  the  site  having  been  selected  on  account  of  fresh 
water,  but  it  has  an  extensive  flat  in  front. 

Stretching  to  the  northwest  is  a  large  shallow  marshy  bay,  fringed  with  trees  and  bushes. 
From  its  northern  shore  lowland  extends  as  far  back  as  Eraser's  river.  The  western  boundary 
of  the  bay  is  formed  by  the  eastern  shore  of  Point  Roberts. 

POINT  ROBERTS. 

The  southwestern  extremity  of  this  point  is  low,  and  bears  west  12  or  13  miles  from  Point 
Whitehorn.     Its  approximate  position  is  consequently— 

Latitude 48  58  north;      ^^^^ ^ 

Longitude 123  05  west,  t-5-of 

or  about  two  miles  below  the  boundary  of  the  United  States. 

On  the  outer  or  Gulf  of  Georgia  side  of  Point  Roberts  the  shore  runs  about  NW.  9  or  10 
miles  to  the  southern  and  principal  mouth  of  Eraser's  river.  Tiie  south  front  runs  E.NE.  3 
miles,  and  presents  for  nearly  the  entire  distance  a  bold  bluff  about  250  feet  high,  and  covered 
with  wood.  Haifa  mile  off  this  shore  anchorage  may  be  had  in  from  10  to  15  fathoms,  but  in 
southerly  weather  it  must  be  avoided.  The  eastern  shore  of  the  point  runs  nearly  parallel  with 
the  western  for  4  or  5  miles. 

A  coast  survey  hydi'ographic  reconnaissance  was  made  of  this  vicinity  in  1857. 

BRITISH  COLUMBIA. 


After  leaving  the  shores  of  the  Gulf  the  channel  passes  through  an  extensive  flat,  partially 
bare  at  low  water,  and  stretching  5  or  6  miles  off  shore.  The  channel  is  very  crooked,  and  no 
buoys  mark  its  course.  Practicable  ranges  and  marks,  moreover,  are  too  distant  to  be  of  use, 
and  hence  the  lead  must  be  relied  upon  entirely.  Two  or  three  American  river  steamers  now 
ply  upon  the  river.     Its  current  is  said  to  have  a  velocity  of  from  5  to  8  miles  per  hour. 

The  river  was  discovered  by  the  Spaniards  in  1790;  and  Galiano  informed  Vancouver  (1792) 


THE    XJNITBD   STATES  COAST   SURVEY.  141 

that  it  was  called  tho  Rio  Blancho,  in  honor  of  the  then  prime  minister  of  Spain,  but  that  it 
had  been  searched  for  in  vain.     It  receives  its  present  name  from  its  explorer. 
Tho  shoal  off  it  Vancouver  called  Sturgeon  Bank. 

NANAIHO  BAT. 

This  bay  lies  on  Vancouver  island  beyond  the  49th  parallel,  and  wo  refer  to  it  because  sup- 
plies of  coal  (lignite)  arc  there  obtained  by  many  steamers. 

The  outer  entrance  to  tho  harbor  is  in  latitude  49°  12'  north,  longitude  123"  51'  west,  and 
bears  W.  J  N.  33  miles  from  Point  Roberts.  From  the  cntmnco  tho  mid-chainiol  course  nnis 
S.  J  W.  5  miles,  passing  a  small  island  on  tho  northwest  at  the  distance  of  a  mile,  and  a  largo 
island,  with  islets  ofl'  Us  north  point,  throe-qimrters  of  a  milo  on  the  east.  This  course  gradually 
approaches  Douglas  island  on  tho  west,  abreast  of  a  wide  channel  to  the  east,  and  is  rounded 
quite  close.  The  mines  will  then  lie  about  W.SW.  a  mile  distant,  with  a  small  islet  in  front  of 
them.  The  bottom  is  uneven;  some  sunken  rocks  occur,  and  the  anchorage  near  the  rivers  is 
so  contracted  that  vessels  must  moor.     Pilots  will  be  found  hero  to  take  vessels  in. 

The  price  of  the  coal  per  ton  is  about  six  dollars,  but  it  is  light;  occupies  one-fifth  more  space 
than  Welsh  coal;  burns  rapidly  with  flame  and  much  smoke;  disengages  a  great  deal  of  gas,  and 
prtxluces  clinker  in  abundance.     It  is,  however,  superior  to  the  coal  of  Bellingham  bay. 

The  usual  spelling  of  this  name  is  Nanaimo,  but  that  best  representing  tin-  soniid  is  Nali-ny'- 
moh. 

Of  the  western  shores  of  the  Gulf  of  Georgia  we  cin  say  but  little.  The  currents  rush  past 
its  precipitous  shores  with  great  velocity,  and  quite  recently  the  coast  surveying  brig  drifted, 
with  38  fathoms  of  chain  at  her  bows,  in  a  calm,  for  miles  along  and  within  80  yards  of  the 
rocks  before  she  brought  up.  In  one  or  two  instances  preceding  this  the  lead  indicated  bottom 
in  10  fathoms,  the  next  cast  showing  40  or  60  fathoms. 

ARCHIPELAGO  DE  HARO. 

THE  TWO  STRAITS. 

The  experience  of  three  season's  surveying  in  this  immediate  locality  has  not  increased  our 
relish  for  navigating  these  channels  in  sailing  vessels.  With  plenty  of  wind  no  navigation  could 
be  better,  but  in  a  calm  vessels  will  frequently  bo  jammed  close  to  rocks,  with  only  a  few 
fathoms  inside  of  their  positions,  but  40  or  50  outside,  and  a  swirling  current  that-renders 
towing  with  boats  utterly  impossible.  Frequently,  too,  boats  have  been  nearly  swamped  by 
the  tide  rips  that  exist  through  tii»m.  OfT  East  Point,  as  an  instance,  a  five-oared  whale  boat 
entirely  failed  in  trying  to  hold  her  own  against  the  current,  which  we  judged  to  be  rushing 
(the  only  term  applical)Ic)  at  the  rate  of  7  miles  per  hour.  Throughout  the  Canal  de  Ilaro  tho 
roar  of  the  conflicting  currents  can  be  heard  for  miles,  and  the  main  current  runs  frequently  6 
miles  per  hour.  No  anchorages  exist  in  this  channel  except  at  Cordova  bay,  but  it  is  free  of 
known  hidden  dangers  except  Unit  Bock,  off  Darcy  island.  It  is  10  miles  longer  than  tho 
Rosario  Strait,  and  makes  a  right  angle  in  its  course,  but  is  a  mile  wider.  Rosario  Strait  is  less 
curved,  has  several  anchorages  and  known  dangerous  rocks,  and  a  current  of  about  IJ  mile  less 
per  hour.  For  steamers  either  channel,  or  even  some  of  tho  narrow  intermediate  channels  may 
be  used;  but  for  a  sailing  vessel  the  Rosario  Passage  is  preferable,  although  tho  total  distance 
from  the  middle  of  the  Strait  of  Juan  dc  Fuca  to  tho  middle  of  tho  Gulf  of  Georgia  is  5  miles 
longer.     The  winds  are  apt  to  fail  in  both  channels,  and  during  summer  frequent  calms  proviiil. 


142  EEPOfiT   OP   THE   SUPERINTENDENT   OF 

We  never  heard  thunder  in  this  Territory  except  in  one  instance,  at  Cypress  island,  in  Rosario 
Strait. 

BELLINGHAM  BAY,   (WASHINGTON  TERRITOEY.). 

Before  passing  to  a  description  of  Admiralty  Inlet  we  will  notice  this  bay,  as  mines  of  coal 
(lignite)  have  been  opened  upon  its  shores. 

After  leaving  Rosario  Strait,  the  course  upon  entering  the  jchanuel,  two  miles  wide,  opening 
south  of  Cypress  island,  is  NE.  for  2  miles.  The  width  then  decreases  to  a  mile  upon  turning 
sharp  around  the  SE.  point  of  Cypress,  and  to  the  eastward  are  seen  the  bright  bluffs  of  Ouemes 
island.  Between  these  two  islands  the  channel  runs  about  3  miles  on  a  N.  by  W.  ^  W.  course. 
Abreast  of  the  north  end  of  Guemes,  which  is  a  steep  bluff,  and  on  the  west  side  of  the  channel, 
are  several  small,  high,  wooded  islets,  called  the  Cone  islands.*  The  moderately  low,  wooded 
island  facing  the  channel  is  Sinclair;  vessels  pass  between  the  southeast  point  of  it  and  the  north 
end  of  Guemes.  The  island  a  couple  of  miles  to  the  NE.  is  Vemlovi;*  pass  north  of  it  but 
south  of  the  small  islet,  (off  Eliza's  island,)  which  is  2  miles  NE.  by  N.  from  the  NW.  point  of 
Vendovi,  and  the  southern  part  of  Bellingham  bay  opens  to  the  southeast;  its  northern  part 
opens  to  the  N.NW, 

If  the  current  is  flood  and  the  wind  light  keep  close  around  Guemes  and  Vendovi,  so  as  not 
to  be  set  past  Sinclair  island.  The  low,  bare,  rocky  islets,  1^  mile  NW.  of  Vendovi,  are  the 
Viti  Rocks;  and  the  point  between  them  and  Eliza's  island  is  the  southern  extremity  of  Lummi 
island.  From  the  islet  last  passed,  a  point  on  the  eastern  shore  lies  nearly  north  5  or  6  miles 
distant.  Run  past  this  and  follow  the  trend  of  the  shore  for  2  or  3  miles  to  the  deepest  part 
of  that  portion  of  the  bay,  when  houses,  &c.,  will  denote  the  position  of  the  mines  and  the 
villages  of  Sehome  and  Whatcom.  Half  a  mile  from  the  shore  is  capital  anchorage  in  4  fathoms, 
soft  bottom,  and  the  bay  there  is  very  smooth. 

The  general  direction  of  Bellingham  bay  is  SE.  and  NW. ;  its  width  3  miles  and  length  14, 
extending  from  latitude  48°  33'  to  latitude  48°  48'.  The  depth  of  water  ranges  from  3  to  20 
fathoms,  with  good  sticky  bottom. 

A  hydrographic  sketch  of  the  bay  was  published  in  the  Coast  Survey  Report  for  1856. 

We  believe  there  are  several  companies  mining  here,  but  the  amount  of  coal  obtained  is  not 
great.  Its  quality  is  not  good,  the  furnaces  producing  sometimes  as  much  clinker  and  ashes  in 
bulk,  aad  half  the  amount  in  weight  of  the  coal  put  in.  Deleterious  gas  is  freely  disengaged, 
and  the  combustion  also  evolves  clouds  of  black  smoke.  In  the  experiment  which  we  witnessed, 
in  1853,  the  steamer's  furnaces  could  not,  in  two  attempts,  be  kept  up  so  as  to  produce  a 
sufSciency  of  steam. 

A  saw-mill  is  located  upon  the  bay  at  one  of  the  villages. 

Bellingham  bay  was  first  surveyed  by  Whidbey,  under  Vancouver's  orders,  in  1792,  and 
then  received  its  present  name.  In  some  recent  maps  the  northern  portion  is  called  Gaston 
bay,  and  for  the  southern  part  the  original  name  is  retained;  but  Vancouver's  designation  is 
that  universally  adopted  on  the  western  coast. 

A  military  station  is  located  at  the  upper  part  of  the  bay,  opposite  to  the  coal  mines. 

The  amount  of  shore-line  in  the  Archipelago  de  Haro,  Bellingham  bay.  Possession  sound,  &c., 
is  627  miles. 

<*  Named  by  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition,  1841. 

1/      /v;  nU'/Zji^ 


THE   UNITED   STATES   COAST   SUHVET.  143 


ADMIRALTY   INLCT. 

Ocneral  Features. — This  inlot  may  be  described  as  a  vast  canal,  coramencing  at  the  sonthoast 
oxtremity  of  the  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca  and  running  in  a  general  SE.  by  S.  direction  for  CO 
miles  to  the  south  end  of  Vashon's  island.  It  has  for  that  length  an  average  width  of  3 J 
miles,  and  then  branches  iiUoa  multitude  of  arms,  which  cover  an  urea  of  about  14  by  22  miles. 
Their  general  direction  is  SW.  |  S.,  and  they  comprise  what  is  called  Piujii's  Sound. 

At  16  miles  from  the  entrance  to  the  inlot  an  arm  allied  Z/bo<rsc«»j«i  opens  upon  the  western 
side,  and  runs  60  mile«  S.  by  W.,  with  an  average  width  of  1.J  mile.  Twenty-five  miles  from 
the  entrance  of  the  inlet  another  arm  opens  on  the  eastern  side,  runs  north  and  northwest 
behind  Whidboy  island,  forming  Possession  sound,  ports  Gardner  and  Susan,  &c.,  and  leads  on 
to  the  Strait  of  Juan  do  Fuca  through  Deception  Pass,  at  the  north  end  of  Whidbey  island. 

The  shores  are  generally  bluffs,  ranging  from  50  to  500  feet  in  height,  with  their  sides  kept 
bright  by  the  gradual  wearing  action  of  the  water,  and  their  tops  covered  with  trees  and  thick 
undergrowth  to  their  very  edges.  There  is  so  much  sameness  in  the  shores  that  it  requires 
some  acquaintance  with  the  dilTerent  points  to  recognize  them  by  their  trifling  peculiarities. 
The  depth  of  water  in  the  channels  is  remarkably  great,  perhaps  averaging  100  fathoms;  and 
it  is  sometimes  difficult  to  find  anchorage  sufficiently  far  from  the  shoro  to  afford  room  for 
getting  under  way  Many  superior  harbors  are  found  in  every  direction,  and  small  settle- 
ments are  gradually  springing  up  in  favorable  localities. 

Admiralt}^  inlet.  Hood's  canal,  and  Puget's  Sound,  have  an  aggregate  shoro  line  of  not  less 
than  803  miles,  yet  the  number  of  dangers  knowm  to  exist  in  them  is  remarkably  few. 

One  of  the  inlets  or  arms  of  Puget's  Sotind  reaches  within  two  miles  of  the  head  of  Hood's 
canal,  and  between  them  lies  a  largo  lake.  The  southern  waters  of  this  sound  are  also  within 
55  miles,  in  a  direct  line,  of  the  Columbia  river,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Cowlitz,  46  miles  from 
Capo  Disappointment,  and  within  20  miles  of  the  upper  waters  of  the  Chehalis  river,  which 
runs  into  Gray's  bay.  At  present  the  route  travelled  from  the  Columbia  is  by  canoes,  for  less 
than  20  miles,  up  the  Cowlitz  to  the  settlement  at  "Cowlitz  Landing,"  (or  by  horse  over  a 
somewhat  bad  path, )  and  then  by  horses  or  mules  to  Olympia,  over  a  tolerably  level  country, 
and  by  a  road  moderately  good  in  summer  but  bad  in  winter.  The  distance  can  be  made  in 
one  day  with  a  good  horse.  From  where  the  road  strikes  the  Chehalis  the  river  is  said  to  be 
navigable  for  largo  boats  to  Gray's  harbor.  We  judged  the  stream  to  bo  about  100  yards  wide. 
It  had  apparently  plenty  of  water,  and  a  slow  current.  The  Cowlitz  has  a  rapid  current,  and 
at  a  low  stage  of  the  water  canoes  are  poled  up  its  channel;  during  freshets  they  are  dragged 
up,  the  crews  clinging  to  the  branches  of  the  trees  upon  its  banks.  Two  days  of  labor  are 
then  required  for  the  trip,  but  in  summer  it  is  made  in  one. 

The  importance  of  these  close  relations  of  the  waters  of  the  Columbia  river,  Puget's  Sound, 
Admiralty  inlet,  Gray's  harbor,  and  Shoalwater  bay,  in  view  of  the  prosperity  of  the  two 
Territories,  must  be  manifest  witiiout  entering  into  dotAils  of  the  feasibility  of  their  connection 
by  railroads  and  canals. 

The  inlot  was  discovered  by  Quimper,  in  1790,  and  called  the  Canal  do  Caamano.  It  was 
first  explored  and  made  known,  in  1792,  by  Vancouver,  who  applied  tho  present  name  to  it. 

A  reconnaissance  sketch  of  Admiralty  Inlet  was  published  by  tho  Coast  Survey  in  1854. 


144  REPORT  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

We  shall  not  attempt  to  give  in  full  and  explicit  detail  all  the  peculiarities  of  this  vast  area 
of  waters,  but,  following  the  mid-channel  courses,  will  only  note  generally  the  objects  as  they 
come  under  tlie  eye  of  the  navigator. 

The  entrance  to  the  inlet  lies  between  Point  Partridge,  on  Whidbey  island,  and  Point  Wilson, 
on  the  main,  at  the  entrance  to  Port  Townshend.  The  bearing  of  the  latter  point  from  the 
former  is  SE,  by  S.  ^  S.,  4^  miles;  and  the  bluff  head  lying  2  or, 3  miles  to  the  cast  of  this 
line,  and  destitute  of  trees,  is  Admiralty  Head,*  around  which  the  ebb  current,  and  an  ebb 
eddy  on  the  flood,  sweeps  with  force. 

The  first  course  inside  of  the  entrance  of  the  inlet  is  E.SE.  6^  miles,  passing  Port  Townshend 
on  the  south.  Admiralty  Head  on  the  north,  and  changing  the  course  abreast  of  Marrowstone 
Point  on  the  W.SW. 

Point  Partridge  is  the  western  point  of  Whidbey  island,  and  directly  faces  the  Strait  of  Juan 
de  Fuca.  It  is  very  steep  and  yellow,  and  flat  on  the  summit,  which  is  covered  with  spruce, 
fir,  and  cedar.  The  point  is  so  rounding  that  it  is  not  easily  recognized  on  coming  from  the 
westward,  but  from  the  south  and  north  it  is  well  marked  and  prominent.  Its  face  is  composed 
of  loose  sand,  which,  being  blown  up  the  hill  by  the  strong  west  winds,  has  formed  a  very 
peculiar  ridge  on  the  outer  face  of  the  top.  This  is  so  narrow  that  it  can  hardly  be  travelled, 
and  in  many  places  it  is  35  feet  above  the  ground  inside,  yet,  being  overgrown  with  bushes,  the 
ridge  is  now  permanent. 

The  highest  part  of  the  point  is  about  260  feet  above  low  water. 

The  triangulation  of  the  Coast  Survey  was  on  the  southern  part  of  the  point,  and  its  approxi- 
mate geographical  position  is — 

Latitude 48  12  59  north. 

Longitude 122  45  07  west. 

From  Point  Wilson  it  bears  NW.  by  N.  ^  N.,  4|-  miles. 
From  Admiralty  Head,  NW.  by  W.  |  W.,  5j  miles. 
It  received  its  present  name  from  Vancouver  in  1792. 

PORT  TOWNSHEND. 

This  harbor  is  favorably  situated  at  the  termination  of  the  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  at  the 
outlet  of  the  waters  of  Admiralty  Inlet,  Puget's  Sound,  &c.,  and  in  proximity  to  the  great  inland 
waters  of  British  Columbia.  The  entrance  lies  between  Point  Wilson*  and  Marrowstone  Pointt, 
the  latter  bearing  E.SE.  3f  miles  from  the  former.  Upon  this  line,  and  even  outside  of  it, 
lies  a  bank  extending  two-thirds  of  the  distance  from  Marrowstone,  and  having  from  6  to  15 
fathoms,  with  hard,  sandy  bottom.  Inside  of  Point  Wilson,  which  is  composed  of  low,  sandy 
hillocks,  as  heretofore  described,  lies  another  low  point  called  Point  HudsonJ,  distant  1|  mile, 
SE.  by  S.  I  S. 

Starting  from  the  entrance  line,  about  1^  mile  from  Marrowstone,  the  mid-channel  course  of 
the  bay  is  S.SW.,  3  miles,  with  an  average  width  of  2;  thence  SE.  \  S.  for  3^  miles,  with  an 
average  width  of  1  j.     The  depth  of  water  throughout  is  very  regular,  and  ranges  from  8  to  15 

o  Red  Bluff  of  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition.     It  has  now  no  marked  color  to  suggest  the  appellation. 
f  Named  by  Vancouver  in  1792.     On  one  edition  of  the  maps  of  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition  the  latter  point  U 
called  Point  Carroll,  and  on  another  Point  Kinggold. 

J  Named  by  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition,  1841. 


THE  UHTTED  STATES  COAST   SURVEY.  145 

fathoms,  with  soft,  muddy  bottom  inside  of  Point  Hudson.  Vessels  coming  from  the  strait  steer 
for  Point  Hudson,  as  soon  as  it  is  opened  by  Point  Wilson,  passing  the  latter  close,  as  20  fathoms  are 
found  100  or  200  yards  off  it.  Upon  approaching  Point  Hudson,  and  when  within  half  a  mile 
of  it,  gradually  keep  away  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  from  5  to  10  fathoms,  and,  as  it  opens, 
run  quite  close,  with  the  summer  wind  offshore,  to  save  making  a  tack;  keep  along  half  a  mile 
to  the  town  situated  under  the  Prairie  Bluff,  and  anchor  anywhere  off  the  end  of  the  wharf,  in 
10  to  12  fathoms,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  shore.  In  winter  anchor  further  out,  to  clear 
Point  Hudson  in  getting  under  way  with  a  southeaster. 

If  coming  down  the  inlet,  bound  into  the  bay,  and  the  current  is  ebb,  pass  Marrowstone 
nearly  three  quarters  of  a  mile  before  heading  in  for  the  town,  and  so  avoid  a  very  strong  eddy 
which  comes  out  of  the  bay  along  the  bluff  shore  west  of  this  point.  If  the  wind  is  light  and 
the  current  strong,  pass  the  Point  quite  close;  run  along  the  outside  of  the  rip,  and  try  to  get 
upon  the  bank  as  soon  as  practicable. 

In  summer  vessels  frequently  drift  about  the  entrance  for  days,  without  a  breath  of  wind, 
and  in  very  strong  currente. 

A  preliminary  chart  of  the  locality  appeared  in  the  Coast  Survey  Report  for  1854. 

The  toicn  numbers  a  few  houses,  and  in  the  vicinity  are  some  good  farms.  The  place  is  noted 
for  the  rough  character  of  its  "  beach  combers." 

A  military  post  has  been  established  on  the  bluff,  2J  miles  S.  by  W.  from  the  town,  and  on 
a  site  which  commands  one  of  the  most  beautiful  views  in  these  waters,  having  the  bluff  and 
varied  shores  of  the  bay  on  either  hand;  Admiralty  Head,  6  miles  distant,  in  the  middle  ground; 
several  distant,  wooded  ridges,  and  in  the  background  the  snow-covered,  double  summit  of 
Mount  Baker,  with  the  mouth  of  the  crater  distinctly  visible  between  the  peaks,  and  at  times 
emitting  vast  volumes  of  smoke. 

On  the  east  side  of  the  bay,  abreast  of  the  town,  lies  a  long  sand  spit,  nearly  closing  the 
north  entrance  to  Kilisut  harbor,  which  runs  parallel  to  the  inlet,  and  is  separated  by  an  island 
a  mile  wide  and  6  miles  long.  At  high  tide  this  harbor  communicates,  by  a  crooked  boat 
channel,  with  Oak  Gove,  at  the  south  end. 

At  the  head  of  Port  Townshend.is  a  narrow  channel  opening  into  a  large  flat,  bounded  by  a 
low,  sandy  beach,  separating  it  from  Oak  Cove.     The  Indians  frequently  use  this  as  a  portage. 

The  shores  are  generally  bluffs,  about  120  feet  high,  and  covered  with  wood,  except  behind 
the  town.  Between  the  town  and  Fort  Townshond  are  two  low  pieces  of  grass  and  sand  beach, 
backed  by  marsh  and  ponds.  The  5-fathom  curve  extends  but  a  few  hundred  yards  from  any 
part  of  the  shores.  A  small  patch  of  kelp  lies  off  the  southern  point  of  Prairie  Bluff,  and  another 
off  the  north  face  of  Marrowstone  Bluff.  No  fresh  water  is  to  be  had  at  the  town,  but  vessels 
can  obtain  a  small  supply  near  the  military  post.  Vegetables  generally  are  plenty,  and  the 
prices  moderate. 

Between  Port  Discover)'  and  Port  Townshend  lies  a  peninsula  3  miles  wide,  offering  great 
advantages  as  a  location  for  a  town.  No  name  has  hitherto  been  applied  to  it,  and  we  have 
ventured  to  designate  it  as  the  Quimpeb  Peninsula. 

19 


146  REPORT  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

The  geographical  position  of  the  triangulation  station  of  the  Coast  Survey,   upon  Point 
Wilson,  is: 

O       /         ;/ 

Latitude 48  08  42.7  north. 

Longitude 122  44  49.4  west. 

h.    m,      J. 

Or,  in  time 8  10  59.6. 

The  position  of  the  triangulation  station  on  the  extremity  of  Point  Hudson,  computed  from 
the  secondary  astronomical  station  near  the  town,  is : 

O         I  II 

Latitude • 48  07  06.7  north. 

Longitude 122  44  25.t5  west.   .  . 

A.    m.     J. 
Or,  in  time 8  10  57.7. 

Magnetic  variation  21°  40'  east,  in  August,  1856,  with  a  yearly  increase  of  1'.  4. 

From  the  above  it  will  be  seen  that  Point  Hudson  is  about  Im.  25s.  west  of  Telegraph 
hill,  San  Francisco. 

Tides. — The  corrected  establishment  or  mean  interval  between  the  time  of  the  moon's  transit 
and  the  time  of  high  water  is  IIIA.  XLIXm.  The  mean  rise  and  fall  of  tides  is  4. 6  feet,  of 
spring  tides  5.5  feet,  and  of  neap  tides  4.0  feet.  The  mean  duration  of  the  flood  is  6A.  34wi., 
and  of  the  ebb  bh.  52wi.  The  mean  diiference  between  the  corrected  establishments  of  the 
a.  m.  and  p.  m.  tides  of  the  same  day  is  21i.  22m.  for  high  water  and  0/i.  35m.  for  low  water. 
When  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest  these  differences  are  4A.  38m.  and  OA.  27m.,  respect- 
ively; and  when  the  moon's  declination  is  zero  they  are  OA.  40m.  and  Oh.  29m.  The  mean  dif- 
ference in  height  of  these  two  tides  is  1.1  foot  for  the  high  waters,  and  4.6  feet  for  the  low 
waters;  when  the  moon's  declination  is  the  greatest  they  are  0.6  foot  and  7.3  feet,  and  when 
the  moon's  declination  is  zero  1.4  foot  and  1.4  foot.  When  the  moon's  declination  is  greatest, 
and  north,  the  two  high  waters  of  the  day  follow  the  moon's  upper  transit,  respectively,  by 
about  6/i.  8m.  and  13^.  56m.,  and  when  greatest,  and  south,  by  about  111.  30m.  and  18/i.  34m., 
the  height  of  the  two  being  about  equal.  When  the  moon's  declination  is  zero,  and  passing 
from  north  to  south,  they  follow  the  moon's  transit  by  about  4A.  9m.,  and  15/i.  55m.,  and  the 
first  rises  about  1.4  foot  higher  than  the  second.  When  the  moon's  declination  is  zero,  and 
passing  from  south  to  north,  they  follow  the  moon's  transit  by  about  3A.  29m.  and  167*.  35m., 
and  the  second  rises  higher  than  the  first  by  the  same  quantity.  When  the  moon's  declination 
is  greatest,  north  or  south,  the  two  low  waters  follow  the  moon's  transit  by  about  9A.  41m. 
and  22/i.  7m.,  but  when  north  the  second  falls  lower  than  the  first  by  about  7.3  feet,  and  when 
south  the  first  falls  lower  by  that  quantity.  When  the  moon's  declination  is  zero,  the  two  low 
waters  fall  nearly  equally.  The  greatest  difference  observed  between  the  heights  of  the 
two  low  waters  of  a  day  was  8.6  feet,  and  the  greatest  difference  between  the  highest  high 
and  lowest  low  water  of  a  day  was  10.1  feet. 

Port  Townshend  was  surveyed  and  first  made   known,   in  1792,  by  Vancouver,   who  gave  it 
the  present  name,  by  which  it  is  always  known. 

It  was  examined  and  named  by  Quimper  in  1790. 

Inl855-'56,  a  law  was  passed  appropriating  a  sum  for  building  a  light- house  upon  "Ked  Bluff," 

but  the  recommendations  of  sea-faring  men  have  fixed  generally  upon  Point  Wilson  as  the  most 

suitable  location.     Eed  Bluff  or  Admiralty  Head  has  the  advantage  of  being  seen  further  up 

the   inlet,    but  is  shut  out  from  Smith' s  Island  light,  Avhile  Point  Wilson  commands  both  it 


THE    DOTTED   STATES   OOkBT   SITRVET.  147 

and  DangWMW  light.  Around  Point  Wilson  all  the  navigation  and  commerce  of  the  inlet  and 
Bound  turn;  and  from  it  vessels  take  their  departure  wken  going  out  in  foggy  or  smoky  weather. 
A  vessel  entering  Port  Townshend  at  night  could  easily  know  hor  position  with  the  light  on 
Point  Wilson,  and  could  enter  it  with  certainty.  Coming  out  of  the  inlet  and  bound  into  the 
bay  she  would  have  a  good  course  to  run  by,  when  the  light  was  opened  by  Marrowstone 
Point. 

Marrowatcne  Point  is  a  low  sandy  point  stretching  300  yards  eastward  from  the  base  of  the 
bluff,  and  forming  an  indentation  on  its  southern  face,  whore  anchorage  may  be  had  in  12 
fathoms,  with  a  current  or  eddy  invariably  running  ebb.  Small  craft  coming  out  of  the  inlet 
with  a  head  wind  can  easily  take  advantage  of  this  for  2  or  3  miles  above  the  point. 

It  received  its  present  name  from  Vancouver  in  1792. 

Admiralty  Head,  abreast  of  the  entrance  to  Port  Townshend,  is  a  perpendicular  cliff  80  feet 
high,  falling  on  the  eastern  side  to  a  low,  pebbly  shore,  which  runs  2  miles  to  the  E.NE.  and 
strikes  the  high  cliffs  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  inlet.  Behind  this  beach  ia  a  large  lagoon  and 
off  it  is  Admiralty  bay,  with  hard,  sandy  bottom,  in  irregular  ridges,  and  a  depth  of  15  to  25 
fathoms  of  water.  A  strong  current  always  makes  out  of  the  bay,  afe  it  is  exposed  to  the  full 
sweep  of  southeasters.  The  current  is  so  strong  that  a  vessel  rides  to  it,  and  consequently 
lies  in  the  trough  of  the  sea. 

The  geographical  position  of  the  triangulation  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  on  the  extremity 
of  Admiralty  Head  is: 

Latitude 48     09     21.6  north. 

Longitude 122     40     08.0  west. 

k.      m.         (. 

Or,  in  time 8     10    40.5. 

From  Point  Wilson  it  bears  NE.  by  E.,  distant  3^  miles. 

From  Marrowstone  Point  N.  by  W.  J  W.,  distant  3|^  miles. 

Starting  from  the  last  course  abreast  of  Marrowstone  Point  the  mid-channel  course  runs  SE. 
by  S.  J  S.  for  7  miles.  The  shores  on  either  hand  are  bluffs  of  apparently  uniform  height, 
covered  with  trees.  About  5  miles  on  this  course  is  passed,  on  the  eastern  shore,  a  low  point, 
with  one  or  two  clumps  of  trees  and  bushes,  to  which  has  been  given  the  name  Bush  Point.* 
On  the  western  shore  is  a  rounding  bluff  point  one  mile  north  of  the  point,  which  forms  the 
northeast  part  of  Oak  Cove.  Off  this  point  is  good  anchorage  in  12  to  15  fathoms.  The  pecu- 
liar geological  formations,  found  in  the  vicinity,  suggested  the  designation  ^od!/&Potn^,t  which 
it  now  bears.  The  high  bold  headland,  several  miles  directly  ahead,  is  Foulweather  Blufft; 
and  that  to  the  E.  SE.  destitute  of  trees,  except  one  large  clump,  which  marks  it  conspicuously 
from  this  direction,  is  Double  Bluff  i.  The  deep  indentation  between  it  and  Bush  Point,  with 
law  land  in  the  rear,  is  Mutiny  Bay,t  in  the  northern  part  of  which  exists  a  narrow  bank  of  11 
fathoms,  affording  an  excellent  fishing  ground.  At  the  end  of  the  course  Oak  Cove,^  opens  to 
the  westward,  and  stretches  towards  the  waters  of  Port  Townshend.  It  has  bluff  shores  nearly 
all  around  it,  those  on  the  southwest  face  beiug  limestone,  but  Basalt  Point,  at  the  south,  derives 

'  By  the  Coast  Barrey  partlei  in  1866. 

t  So  named  by  Vanoonrer  in  1792.    The  Indian  name  for  Foulweather  If  Pttch-pal. 

X  Xamed  by  the  Coast  Surrey  parties  in  18SS. 

9  So  sailed  by  Vaaoourer  in  1792. 


148  KEPOET  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

its  name  from  its  geological  structure.  The  depth  of  water  is  5  to  15  fathoms,  except  N.NW. 
of  Basalt  Point,  where  it  reaches  25  and  30  fathoms.  The  length  of  the  bay  is  3  miles  and  its 
average  width  about  1^  mile.  In  beating  out  of  the  inlet,  with  a  favorable  current,  vessels 
must  not  attempt  to  work  to  this  bay  for  the  sake  of  a  long  tack. 

Vancouver  called  it  Oak  Cove,  his  people  having  reported  that  oak  trees  stood  upon  its 
shores.     We  have  traversed  the  greater  part  of  the  shores  but  found  none. 

The  opening  west  of  Foulweather  Bluff  is  Hood's  Canal.  Yessels  bound  into  it  keep  close  to 
the  western  shore  of  the  bluff,  and  pass  two  low  points  lying  near  together.  The  water  off 
them  is  deep.  Off  the  north  face  of  Foulweather,  for  nearly  a  mile,  less  than  15  fathoms  may 
be  found.  Kelp  exists  under  the  face  of  the  bluff,  and  vessels  may  pass  round  it  in  6  and  1 
fathoms.  The  bottom  along  the  edge  of  the  kelp  is  rocky.  On  the  west  side  of  the  entrance 
to  Hood's  Canal  is  Port  Ludlow,  which  will  be  described  hereafter. 

The  next  and  third  course  is  E.SE.  for  10  miles,  passing  on  the  eastward  Double  Bluff,  which 
stretches  northeast  for  a  mile,  and  rises  300  or  400  feet  in  height,  having  its  top  covered  with 
wood.  The  bluff  running  also  to  the  northward  forms  Useless  hay*  This  has  deep  water 
over  the  greater  portion  of  it,  with  a  large  shallow  bay  called  Deer  Lagoon\  at  its  head.  The 
high  bluff  forming  the  southern  point  of  Useless  bay  is  Scatchet  Head.X  A  similar  bluff  lies  2 
miles  E.  by  S.  of  it.  These  form  the  southern  extremity  of  Whidbey  island,  in  latitude  47° 
54'  N.,  and  are  the  turning  points  into  Possession  Sound. 

The  two  heads  are  about  300  feet  high,  covered  with  wood,  and  separated  by  a  depression, 
which  is  in  part  overflowed  at  high  tide,  and  then  presents  the  appearance  of  a  small  bay. 
Prom  the  eastern  head  round  the  western,  and  a  mile  toward  Useless  bay,  the  low  water  line 
makes  out  half  a  mile,  the  shore  being  bare  where  some  recent  maps  have  deep  water.  For 
nearly  a  mile  south  of  both  heads  a  depth  of  8  and  10  fathoms  and  smooth  sandy  bottom  can  be 
found.  We  found,  when  anchored  for  several  days  off  the  eastern  head,  a  strong  under  current 
running  into  Possession  Sound,  and  an  outer  current  setting  to  the  Avestward,  at  all  tides. 
Vancouver  makes  mention  of  the  shoal,  and  states  that  in  beating  into  the  inlet  he  stood  on 
the  bank  until  he  got  5  fathoms,  but  want  of  time  precluded  his  examining  it. 

On  the  western  side  of  the  last  mid-channel  course  we  pass  Foulweather  Bluff,  which  is 
perpendicular  on  its  N.NW.  face,  and  about  225  feet  high,  with  heavy  firs  upon  its  summit. 
It  slopes  towards  the  east  to  a  bluff  40  feet  high,  but  is  steep  on  the  side  next  to  Hood's  Canal. 
The  low  point  4  miles  east  of  it  is  Point  No  Point,%  making  well  out,  and  destitute  of  trees  or 
bushes.  Between  it  and  Foulweather  is  a  deep  bight,  and  the  distance  across  to  Hood's  Canal 
is  only  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  one  part,  marked  by  the  track  of  a  recent  tornado  that  has 
twisted  off  and  uprooted  firs  of  3  and  4  feet  diameter.  On  the  south  side  of  Point  No  Point  is 
good  anchorage  in  10  fathoms,  and  thence  onward  the  western  shore  runs  nearly  straight  SE. 
by  S.  for  10  miles. 

At  the  end  of  the  last  course,  which  carried  us  3  miles  beyond  Point  No  Point,  the  inlet 
expands  to  a  width  of  T  miles.  A  course  E.NE.  for  3^  miles  carries  us  to  the  entrance  of 
Possession  Sound,  the  first  6  miles  of  which  run  N.  ^  W.,  with  a  width  of  2  miles  and  bluff 
shores.     It  then  turns  to  the  northwestward  to  Port  Gardner.     The  water  is  deep  in  the 

*>  Named  by  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition,  1841. 
f  Named  by  the  Coast  Survey  parties,  1856. 

X  Named  by  United  States  Exploring  Expedition,  1841.     The  proper  spelling  is  Bkadg'-it,  and  the  Indian  name  of  the 
point,  Skoolhks. 
§  Named  by  United  States  Exploring  Expedition,  1841.    The  Indian  name  for  the  point  is  Hahd-skug. 


THE   UNITED   STATES  COAST   8UEVBY.  149 

entrance,  and  affords  no  anchorage.  The  low  point  on  the  eastern  ahore,  4  miles  after  entering, 
is  Point  Elliott*  and  tlio  bay  opening  to  the  northeast  receives  the  Sinahomis  or  Scaget  river. 
The  next,  or  fourth,  mid-channel  course  up  the  inlet  is  S.SE.  for  21  miles  to  Allen's  Bank, 
which  lies  a  mile  off  the  north  end  of  Yashon's  island.  Five  miles  on  this  course,  or  7  from 
Point  No  Point,  brings  us  to  an  excellent  little  harbor  on  the  western  side  of  the  inlet,  called 
ApjpU  Tree  Cove,*  having  a  low  point  on  the  north  side,  with  a  soft  mud  flat  extending  several 
hundred  yards  up  tlie  inlet.  From  5  to  12  fathoms  water  and  sticky  bottom  are  found  off  it 
and  in  the  cove.  There  is  no  fresh  water  in  the  vicinity,  but  very  good  timber  may  be  pro- 
cured suitable  for  boat  spars  and  booms.  On  the  eastern  shore  of  the  inlet,  abreast  of  this 
cove,  are  two  low  points,  a  mile  apart,  making  out  from  the  bluff.  The  indentation  between 
them  forms  a  good  though  small  anchorage,  and  the  chances  are  good  for  fresh  water  at  high 
tide.  The  southern  point  is  named  Point  Wdh*,  the  northern  Point  Edmund.*  The  inlet  is 
here  only  3  miles  wide,  and  continues  so  to  Point  Jefferson,  2  miles  southward  of  Apple  Tree 
cove.  This  is  a  moderately  low  straight  bluff,  with  the  ground  rising  behind  it.  Stretching 
broad  off  its  eastern  face  for  three-quarters  of  a  mile  we  discovered,  in  1856,  a  9-fathom  shoal, 
which  affords  capital  anchorage  for  vessels  when  drifting  with  light  airs  and  adverse  currents. 

POET  MADISON.    ■ 

Point  Jefferson  is  the  northern  side  of  the  entrance  to  this  port,  which  runs  3  miles  W.S W. , 
with  an  average  width  of  2  miles  and  a  large  depth  of  water,  except  under  Point  Jefferson, 
where  anchorage  may  be  had  in  10  and  15  fathoms,  hard  sandy  bottom,  with  patches  of  kelp 
inshore. 

The  southeast  point  of  the  entrance  is  low  and  sandy,  making  out  from  high  wooded  groimd. 
One  mile  west  of  it  is  the  narrow  entrance  to  a  natural  canal,  upon  which,  in  full  view,  are 
situated  the  Port  Madison  saw-mills.  At  the  SW.  part  of  the  bay  is  the  very  narrow  entrance 
to  Port  Orchard.  The  channel  is  somewhat  crooked,  but  it  has  3  and  4  fathoms  water  in  it. 
On  the  western  side  of  this  entrance  are  some  white  patches  of  beach,  formed  by  clam  shells. 
In  1857  an  Indian  village  was  situated  here,  and  an  Indian  sub-agency.  Both  sides  of  the 
entrance  are  bluffs.  Vessels  not  well  acquainted  with  the  channel  must  enter  under  easy  sail, 
and  keep  a  lead  going  on  each  side  of  the  vessel  to  ascertain  where  the  deepest  water  lies. 
After  getting  through  give  the  point,  one  mile  off  on  the  western  side,  a  berth  of  nearly  half  a 
mile,  to  avoid  a  shoal  which  makes  out  east  from  it.  Thence  it  is  plain  sailing  in  15  to  25 
fathoms  of  water.  After  passing  the  first  point  an  arm  opens  to  the  NW.,  and  many  vessels 
load  there  with  spars.  Ten  miles  up  the  southern  channel  is,  or  was,  a  saw-mill.  In  coming 
out  of  this  port  vessels  should  not  trust  the  southern  entrance,  but  leave  as  they  entered. 

Port  Orchard  was  examined  and  named  by  Vancouver  in  1792. 

Bainbridge  island  lies  between  Port  Orchard,  Port  Madison,  and  Admiralty  Inlet.  It  is  8  or 
9  miles  long  by  2^  in  breadth,  and  its  general  direction  is  SE.  by  S.  A  few  loggers  huts  stand 
on  the  western  side  and  the  Madison  saw-mill  at  the  north  end.  On  the  S£.  part  it  is  indented 
By  two  small  harbors.     It  was  named  by  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition  in  1841. 

DUWAMI8H  BAT. 

Abreast  of  Port  Madison  the  eastern  shore  of  the  inlet  retreats  and  there  receives  several 
small  streams  of  water,  but  it  gradually  makes  out  into  a  very  long,  low  sand  point,  called 

o  So  ciOled  by  tbc  Unltod  SUtes  Exploring  Ezpedltloo,  1841. 


160  EEPOET   OF   THE   SUPERINTENDENT   OF 

West  Point*  which  forms  the  extreme  northwest  part  of  the  entrance  to  Duwamish  bay.  The 
bay  runs  E.  by  S.  6^  miles  and  has  a  width  of  2  miles.  To  the  south  point,  called  Battery 
Point,  f  which  is  low  and  bare,  with  a  curiously  shaped  mound  rising  sharply  behind  it,  the 
course  is  about  SE.  by  S.  and  distance  4^  miles.  Under  West  Point  there  is  anchorage  in  10 
to  15  fathoms  after  getting  towards  the  bluiF;  but  on  the  north  side  of  the  point  the  water  is 
very  deep.  Through  the  centre  of  the  bay  the  depth  ranges  from  88  to  40  fathoms.  On  the 
north  side  of  Battery  Point  a  vessel  anchoring  in  20  fathoms  cannot  have  a  greater  scope  of 
chain  than  35  fathoms  without  being  too  close  to  the  shore.  When  we  anchored  there  in  13 
fathoms  and  veered  to  25  fathoms  of  chain  the  vessel's  stern  was  in  2^  fathoms.  The  beach  is 
smooth  and  very  regular,  being  composed  of  sand  and  gravel.  On  this  side  of  Battery  Point 
is  the  deserted  town  of  Alki,  (the  Indian  phrase  for  "by  and  by.")  The  town  has  had 
several  names,  but  there  is  nothing  about  it  to  command  trade. 

The  bluff  head  within  the  bay,  2  miles  NN.E.  off  Battery  Point,  is  Duwamish  Head.  It  is 
steep,  about  150  feet  high,  covered  with  timber,  and  the  beach  at  low  water  stretches  out 
over  a  quarter  of  a  mile  N.NW.  from  it.  The  head  of  the  bay  receives  the  Duwamish  river,, 
and  for  one  or  two  miles  is  an  extensive  flat,  bare  at  low  water. 

The  town  of  Seattle  is  on  a  small  point  at  the  NE.  part  of  the  bay,  a  little  over  5  miles 
inside  of  West  Point.  It  consists  of  a  few  houses  and  stores,  a  church,  and  a  small  saw-mill. 
It  has  but  little  trade. 

The  usual  anchorage  is  directly  off  the  wharf  in  10  to  15  fathoms  water,  with  the  large 
white  house  on  the  extreme  point  bearing  about  E.  or  E.  by  S.,  and  at  a  distance  from  the 
beach  of  about  500  yards.  This  position  will  enable  a  vessel  to  work  out  well  by  making  the 
first  tack  to  the  southward  towards  the  flat.  If  it  is  high  water  this  flat  cannot  be  distin- 
guished, and  the  lead  must  be  kept  going.  When  a  depth  of  15  fathoms  is  struck  go  about, 
for  it  shoals  to  3  fathoms  very  suddenly,  and  keeping  on  would  soon  bring  up  on  the  flat. 
If  the  current  is  ebb  vessels  bound  out  should  stand  well  into  the  inlet;  and  if  bound  up  work 
close  under  and  around  Duwamish  Head  to  Battery  Point.  If  the  current  is  flood  vessels 
bound  out  should  work  under  the  north  shore,  and  close  to  West  Point;  if  bound  up  work 
under  the  north  shore  about  3^  miles  to  Magnolia  Bluff,  beyond  a  low  marshy  indentation  in 
the  shore,  or  until  they  can  fetch  well  clear  of  Battery  Point. 

There  is  said  to  be  some  good  agricultural  prairie  land  on  the  Duwamish  river.  Some 
distance  up  it  is  connected  with  Lalce  Washington,  which  is  reported  to  be  25  miles  long  and 
several  miles  broad,  with  islands  in  it.  It  is  but  a  few  miles  in  a  direct  line  east  of  Seattle. 
Another  small  lake  exists  about  a  mile  back  from  the  beach,  a  mile  west  of  Seattle.  This  is 
reached  by  a  trail. 

The  town  of  Seattle  was  attacked  by  a  small  body  of  Indians  in  1855,  but  the  assault  was 
repelled  by  the  United  States  steamer  Massachusetts. 

The  bay  was  called  Elliott's  Bay  by  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition  in  1841,  but 
the  present  name  is  that  by  which  it  is  invariably  known  and  was  adopted  from  the  name  of 
the  tribe  of  Indians  inhabiting  its  shores.  The  name  is  derived  from  that  of  the  Chief 
Se-at-tl. 

The  Coast  Survey  report  for  1854  was  accompanied  by  a  reconnaissance  sketch  of  Duwamish 
bay  and  Seattle  harbor. 

"  Named  by  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition,  1841. 
f  Named  by  the  Coast  Survey  parties,  1856. 


THE  UNITED   STATES   COAST  SURVEY.  151 

BE8T0RATI0N  POINT. 

« 

From  tho  SE.  point  of  Port  Madison  to  this  point  the  Bhore  is  bluff  and  somewhat  irregular, 
and  is  indented  first  by  Eagie  harbor,*  having  a  long  pebbly  spit  making  out  300  or  400  yards 
SE.  from  its  north  point;  and  next,  at  Point  Restoration,  by  Blakdy  harbor,*  having  off  its 
entrance  a  largo  rock,  15  feet  high,  with  deep  water  all  round  it.  Tho  rock  bears  nearly 
N.NW.  three-quarters  of  a  mile  from  the  point,  and  tho  bottom  between  is  irregular,  the 
depth  ranging  from  20  to  40  fathoms.  Blakely  harbor  is  only  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide  and 
three-quarters  long,  with  18  fathoms  sticky  bottom  at  its  mouth,  and  shoaling  gradually  inside, 
but  most  on  the  south  side.  A  hydrographic  sketch  of  the  harbor  will  be  found  in  the  Coast 
Survey  Report  for  1856. 

Eagle  harbor  is  larger  and  more  commodious  than  Blakely.  The  shoal  off  its  north  point  is 
not,  80  far  as  we  know,  laid  down  on  any  chart. 

Restoration  Point  is  in  some  respects  very  peculiar,  no  other  in  these  waters,  except  Battery 
Point,  presenting  the  same  formation.  For  300  yards  it  is  flat,  about  10  feet  about  high  water, 
and  has  a  foot  depth  of  soil  covered  with  grass  over  a  limestone  rock,  upheaved  nearly  on 
edge,  the  direction  of  the  strata  pointing  toward  Battery  or  a  little  south  of  it.  Inshore  it 
rises  up  sharply  about  100  feet,  its  sides  covered  with  grass  and  the  summit  with  fir  trees. 
Around  the  whole  SE.  face  of  the  point  these  peculiarities  exist.  On  the  upper  levels  of  the 
high  land  adjacent  our  party  found  small  lakes  of  water. 

From  the  extremity  of  the  point  a  ledge,  bare  at  low  tides,  makes  out  300  yards,  but  the 
depth  is  6  fathoms  100  yards  off  its  extremity,  and  16  fathoms  at  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  On  the 
tail  of  this  ledge  the  United  States  sloop-of-war  Decatur  struck  in  1855.  S.SE.  of  the  point 
anchorage  may  be  had  in  15  fathoms,  sticky  bottom,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  distant;  or,  as  a  rule 
for  finding  anchorage,  bring  the  rock  north  of  it  to  range  just  over  and  inside  of  the  point. 
Kelp  exists  along  the  southern  face. 

The  geographical  position  of  the  triangulation  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  upon  this  point  is: 

o  /  // 

Latitude 47     35     05.8  north. 

Longitude 122     28     15.2  west. 

A.       m.        t. 

Or,  in  time 8     09     53.0. 

From  this  point  Battery  Point  bears  E.  by  N.  i  N.,  distant  2.J  miles. 

Tides. — The  approximate  corrected  establishment  is  lYh.  IVm.,  and  the  approximate  mean 
rise  and  fall  of  tides  7.4  feet. 

Vancouver  anchored  under  this  point  in  1792;  found  large  numbers  of  Indians  located  near, 
and  first  called  it  Village  Point,  but  changed  it  to  its  present  name  in  commemoration  of  the 
day  on  which  he  anchored.     From  this  place  his  boats  explored  all  the  waters  adjacent. 

South  of  Restoration  the  inlet  opens  to  the  westward  for  a  couple  of  miles  into  a  bay,  in 
which  is  situated  an  island  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  extent,  called  Blake  island.*  From 
the  northwest  part  of  the  bay  leads  a  narrow  crooked  pa.ss  3  miles  long  to  the  southern  part  of 
Port  Orchard,  which  spreads  out  into  several  arms.  The  pass  is  obstructed  by  rocks  and  is 
difficult  of  navigation.  The  winds  are  variable,  light  and  uncertain  at  its  narrowest  part,  where 
it  makes  a  sharp  turn,  and  is  only  a  couple  of  hundred  yards  wide  with  a  rushing  swirling 

•  Named  by  tb«  United  State*  Exploring  Expedition,  1841. 


152  REPORT  OF  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF 

current.     The  channel  generally  used,  although  narrower  than  the  one  just  mentioned,  is  that 
leading  into  Port  Madison. 

Our  last  course  brought  us  to  Allen's  Bank*  oflFthe  north  end  of  Vashon's  island,  with  Blake 
island  to  the  westward,  and  three-quarters  of  a  mile  distant.  This  bank  is  nearly  a  mile  in  extent, 
and  has  as  little  as  10  fathoms  upon  it,  with  a  variable  bottom,  in  some  places  mud,  and  in  others 
hard  sand.  At  our  anchorage  upon  it  in  11  fathoms  the  south  end  of  Blake  island  bore  N.  81° 
"W.,  and  the  NW.  point  of  Vashon's  island  S.  5°  B.  Between  the  anchorage  and  Blake  island 
the  water  regularly  deepens  to  about  18  fathoms  in  soft  mud.  This  anchorage  has  already 
proved  of  service  to  vessels  losing  the  wind  and  having  adverse  currents.  The  eastern  point  of 
Blake  island  is  low  and  pebbly,  and  called  by  the  natives  Tatugh.  Under  it  is  anchorage  in  17 
and  18  fathoms,  soft  mud.  The  NW.  point  of  Vashon's  island  is  Dolphin  Point,  the  northeast  ^M^^ 
point  Point  Vashon,  the  point  abreast  of  it  is  Point  Southworth,  and  the  mile  wide  channel, 
commencing  between  the  last  two  points,  is  Oolvos  Passage,  t  running  west  of  Vashon' s  island. 

The  extent  of  shore-line  from  the  entrance  to  the  north  end  of  Vashon's  island  is  241  miles. 

The  main  body  of  the  inlet  runs  about  SE.  for  8  miles,  then  S.SW.  8  miles  further,  with  an 
average  width  of  two  miles.  In  this  stretch  the  currents  are  moderately  strong;  the  chances 
for  anchoring  few;  and  it  is  sometimes  calm  while  a  nice  breeze  is  blowing  through  Colvos 
Passage. 

Brace  Point  %  lies  on  the  east  side  of  the  inlet,  NE.  from  Dolphin  Point,  The  round-topped 
point  having  two  or  three  lone  fir  trees  upon  it,  and  situated  on  the  same  side  of  the  inlet,  4 
miles  above  Brace  Point,  is  called  Point  PuUy.  t  The  water  is  very  deep  close  to  it  on  either 
side. 

The  geographical  position  of  the  triangulation  station  of  the  Coast  Survey  on  the  summit  of 
the  mound  is: 

o  /  // 

Latitude 47      27     07.3  north. 

Longitude 122      22     21.5  west. 

h.      m.        s. 

Or,  in  time 8     09     29.4. 

There  is  a  small  cove  north  of  Brace  Point,  and  between  it  and  another  low  point  called 
Fauntleroy  Cove,^  having  good  anchorage  in  10  and  12  fathoms,  and  fresh  water  is  easily 
obtained  in  the  vicinity.  Between  Brace  Point  and  Point  PuUy  two  or  three  small  streams 
of  water  empty,  and  another  from  the  valley  a  mile  east  of  the  high  bluff  at  PuUy.  Off  this 
valley  a  flat  makes  out  with  deep  water  at  its  edge. 

Under  Dolphin  Point  there  is  very  deep  water;  but  off  the  north  end  of  the  island,  near  this 
point,  we  found  anchorage  in  14  fathoms,  hard  bottom. 

Colvos  Passage  is  the  usual,  we  may  say  the  invariably  used  ship  channel  towards  Puget'  s 
Sound.  It  is  about  a  mile  wide,  with  high  bluff  shores,  varied  by  numerous  small  low  sand 
points  making  out  from  the  face  of  the  bluff,  and  having  deep  water  off  them.  The  passage  is 
11  miles  long  to  the  south  end  of  Vashon's  island,  which  is  called  Dalco  Point, t  and  it  runs 
with  a  nearly  straight  course  S.  by  E.  A  mile  and  a  half  inside  of  Point  Vashon  there  is  a 
small  curve  in  the  shore-line  called  Fern  Cove,%  with  excellent  anchorage  in  5  and  10  fathoms. 

0  Discotewd  and  named  by  the  Coast  Survey  in  1857.  In  some  recent  maps  25  to  30  fathoms  are  marked  on  the  site  of 
this  Bhoal. 

-[•Named  by  the  TTnited  States  Exploring  Expedition,  1841. 

t Named  by  the  Coast  Survey  in  1856. 

§Named  by  the  United  States  Coast  Survey,  1857. 


TUE   UNITED   STATES  COAST   SURVEY.  153 

ft 

Abreast  of  Dolco  Point  there  is  a  small  boat  harbor,  with  u  narrow  and  shoal  cntrnnco,  culled 
Oig  Harbor.  •  Looking  out  of  the  passage  to  the  north,  Mount  Baker  shows  distinctly  in  clear 
weather. 

COMUEKCGUEXT   BAY. 

When  abreast  of  Dalco  Point  this  bay,  at  the  termination  of  Admiralty  Inlet,  opens  to  the 
E.SE.,  and  over  its  low  background  shows  the  high  snow-covered  yieak  of  Mount  Rainier. 
The  general  direction  of  the  bay  is  E.  by  S.  J  S.,  with  a  length  of  3  or  4  miles,  a  width  of  2  miles, 
and  ik  great  depth  of  water  up  to  the  line  of  the  extensive  flat  at  its  head,  which  is  backed  by 
marsh.     There  are  no  settlement*  upon  it,  but  in  1857  we  found  some  deserted  fishing  stations. 

It  was  named,  in  1792,  by  Vancouver,  who  thought  this  the  entrance  to  some  large  arm  of 
the  inlet,  on  account  of  the  low  country  beyond. 

^e  believe  the  Indian  name  for  this  bay  is  Puynllup. 

Vashon^s  Idand,  lying  between  the  southern  extremity  of  the  inlet  and  Colvos  Passage,  is 
11 J  miles  long,  with  an  average  width  of  2^  miles.  Halfway  down  on  its  eastern  side  lies  a 
curiousl}'  shaped  peninsula,  formed  by  a  narrow,  low,  sandy  neck  of  land  which  makes  out  into 
the  inlet,  and  then  runs  towards  the  south  point  of  the  island.  The  space  between  this 
peninsula  and  the  island  is  an  excellent  harbor  4  or  5  miles  long,  and  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
wide,  with  5  to  10  fathoms  water  in  it.  The  southeast  face  of  the  peninsula  is  high  and  steep, 
and  bordered  by  ^vater  from  40  to  50  fathoms  deep. 

The  island  is  high,  with  steep  shores  covered  with  wood  and  undergrowth.  Its  surface  is 
marshy  in  many  parts  that  are  quite  elevated.  The  present  name  was  given  by  Vancouver  in 
1792.  The  harbor  formed  by  it  and  the  peninsula  was  called  Quartermaster's  harbor  by  the 
United  States  Exploring  Expedition. 

POINT    DEFIANCE   AND   THE  NABBoWS. 

The  high,  sharp  yellow  bluff  facing  the  south  entrance  to  Colvos  passage  is  called  Point 
Defiance,  and  between  it  and  the  western  shore  pass  all  the  waters  of  Puget's  Sound.  This 
passage  is  called  the  Narrows.  Its  average  width  is  three-quarters  of  a  mile,  and  very  uniform; 
the  shores  high,  bold,  and  in  some  places  rocky.  For  2  miles  to  the  SE.  its  course  is  a  regular 
curve.  The  next  turn  is  to  the  southward,  and  at  a  distance  of  2  miles  in  that  direction  the 
waters  of  the  sound  open  ahead,  with  a  narrow  pass  between  the  main  and  Fox  island  to  the 
west,  and  a  small  indentation,  backed  by  low  ground,  and  formed  on  the  south  by  a  small 
penins\ila,  on  the  east.  In  this  curve  is  anchorage  in  15  fathoms,  with  swirling  eddies.  On  the 
south  face  of  this  peninsula,  and  outside  of  the  kelp,  anchorage  may  also  be  had. 

PUGET'S  SOUND. 

This  collection  of  inlets  commences  after  passing  "The  Narrows,"  and  covers  an  area  of  14 
miles  by  22,  with  a  general  direction  SW.  |  S.  The  aggregate  shore-line  of  this  sound  and 
the  adjacent  part  of  Admiralty  Inlet,  with  Colvos  Passage,  to  the  north  end  of  Vashon's  island, 
is  not  less  than  370  miles.  Upon  its  shores  are  situated  the  settlements  of  Steilacoom,  Nis- 
qually,  Olympia,  and  Newmarket. 

It  received  its  present  name  in1792  from  Vancouver,  in  compliment  to  Lieutenant  Puget, 
who  explored  it. 

»  Named  by  the  Unitad  SUtes  Exploring  Expedition,  18il. 
20 


164  REPORT  OF  THE   SUPERINTENDENT  OF 


STEILACOOM. 

On  the  eastern  shore  of  Puget's  Sound,  9  miles  south  of  Point  Defiance,  is  situated  the 
town  or  village  of  Steilacoom,  upon  a  rising  bluff.  It  consists  of  only  a  few  houses.  Port 
Steilacoom  stands  about  a  mile  inland,  upon  a  piece  of  gravelly  prairie,  and  roads  lead  from  it 
to  the  town  and  the  creek. 

The  neighboring  country  is  only  moderately  well  adapted  to  agriculture,  except  along  the 
bottoms  of  the  small  streams. 

The  usual  anchorage  is  off  the  small  wharf,  in  15  fathoms,  hard  bottom,  and  about  400  ok  500 
yards  from  the  shore.  An  island,  lying  2^  miles  distant  to  the  west  of  that  position,  is  called 
McNeil,  and  between  it  and  Fox  island,  to  the  northward,  there  is  a  passage  a  mile  and  a  half 
wide.  The  passage  on  the  south  side  of  McNeil  island,  between  it  and  Anderson  island,  is 
generally  known  as  Balch's  Passage.  It  bears  about  SW.  by  W.  from  the  anchorage,  and  is 
marked  by  a  small  wooded  islet  in  it  called  Eagle  island,  off  which  lies  rocky  bottom,  and 
vessels  keep  closer  to  the  north  shore.  This  passage  is  the  direct  channel  to  Olympia,  instead 
of  following  the  broad  one  to  the  southward  of  Steilacoom. 

The  north  end  of  the  island  showing  to  the  southward,  and  1^  mile  from  the  anchorage,  is 
Kitson  island. 

One  mile  north  of  the  anchorage  is  the  mouth  of  a  small  stream  called  the  Steilacoom  river. 

In  coming  to  Steilacoom,  or  bound  direct  for  Olympia,  a  patch  of  kelp,  with  foul  bottom  and 
less  than  3  fathoms  of  water  upon  it,  must  be  avoided.  It  bears  S.SE.  one  mile  from  the  south 
end  of  Pox  island,  and  NW.  by  W.  1|  mile  from  Steilacoom  whai-f.  The  tide-rip  upon  it  and 
abreast  of  the  town  is  very  great,  quite  sufficient  with  a  little  wind  to  swamp  a  small  boat. 
The  shores  of  the  main  and  islands  are  bold,  nearly  uniform  in  height,  and  covered  with 
trees. 

Tides. — The  corrected  establishment  or  mean  interval  between  the  time  of  the  moon' 8 
transit  and  the  time  of  high  water  is  IV/t.  XLVIm.  The  mean  rise  and  fall  of  tides  is  9.2 
feet;  of  spring  tides  11.1  feet,  of  neap  tides  7.2  feet.  The  mean  duration  of  the  flood  is  Qh. 
3m.,  of  the  ebb  6h.  25m.,  and  of  the  stand  28m.  The  difference  between  the  rise  of  the 
highest  tide  and  fall  of  the  lowest  tide  observed  was  18.3  feet.  The  greatest  difference 
observed  between  the  height  of  the  two  low  waters  of  one  day  was  12.2  feet;  and  the  greatest 
difference  between  the  higher  high  And  lower  low  waters  of  a  day  was  17.7  feet. 

When  the  moon' s  declination  is  greatest  north,  the  two  high  waters  of  the  day  follow  her 
transit,  respectively,  by  about  6  and  16  hours,  and  when  greatest  and  south  by  3^  and  18^ 
hours,  the  height  of  the  two  being  about  equal.  When  the  moon' s  declination  is  zero,  they 
follow  the  moon's  transit  by  about  4/i.  46m.  and  llh.  12m.,  but 'the  first  is  higher  than  the 
second  by  about  2.7  feet  when  the  moon's  declination  is  changing  from  north  to  south,  and 
when  changing  from  south  to  north  the  second  is  higher  than  the  first  by  that  quantity.  When 
the  moon'  8  declination  is  greatest,  north  or  south,  the  two  low  waters  follow  the  moon' s  transit 
by  about  11  A.  11m.  and  33A.  37m.,  but  when  north  the  second  falls  lower  than  the  first  by 
about  9.7  feet,  and  when  south  the  first  falls  lower  than  the  second  by  that  quantity.  When 
the  moon's  declination  is  zero,  the  two  low  waters  are  nearly  equal  in  height;  when  changing 
from  north  to  south  they  follow  the  moon's  southing  by  about  llh.  41m.  and  23A.  7m.,  and 
when  changing  from  south  to  north  by  10/t.  41m.  and  24/«.  7m. 


THE   UNITED   8TATE8   COAST   BURVBT.  155 

Tho  pronunciation  of  the  name  Steilacoom,  as  given  to  us  by  Indians,  is  Tchi!'-BB-cura.  On 
the  Admiralty  maps  we  find  it  Chelakoom. 

NitqtuJly,  5  miles  south  of  8teilacoon,  and  on  the  same  side  of  the  Sound,  is,  at  present, 
a  place  of  no  trade  nor  importance.  It  wa«  one  of  the  early  posts  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company, 
and  is  still  occupied  by  them.  An  extensive  mud  flat  exists  off  the  mouth  of  the  wide,  marshy 
valley,  but  tho  depth  of  water  is  very  groat  close  to  it,  and  the  anchorage  room  very  much 
contracted.  The  river  Nisqually  empties  here,  and  we  believe  there  arc  two  small  saw-mills 
upon  it. 

OLTMPIA. 

It  would  be  almost  useless  to  attempt  to  describe  the  route  to  Olympia  from  Steilacoom,  as 
a  pilot  or  a  map  is  absolutely  necessary  in  making  the  passage.  The  mid-channcI  course  is  21 
miles  in  length,  and  its  width  from  half  a  mile  to  a  mile  and  a  half. 

Olympia  is  situated  at  the  head  of  Budd's  inlet,  which  is  6  miles  long,  three-quarters  of  a 
mile  wide,  and  runs  nearly  south.  The  shores  are  steep  and  wooded,  and  the  head  of  the  bay 
an  immense  mud  flat,  behind  which  is  the  town.  It  acquires  prospective  importance  by  being 
the  capital  of  the  Territory,  but  especially  on  account  of  its  proximity  to  the  Columbia  river 
valley,  and  to  the  headwaters  of  tho  Chehalis.  There  is  a  saw-mill  at  New  Market,  2  miles 
south  on  the  Tumwater,  and  three  others  in  the  vicinity,  besides  one  or  two  grist-mills. 

A  depth  of  3  fathoms  can  be  carri«d  on  the  west  side  of  Budd's  inlet,  within  IJ  mile  of  the 
wharf,  and  1  fathom  within  a  mile  on  the  eastern  side.  Vessels  are  said  to  be  brought  up  to 
the  wharf  at  the  highest  tides,  and  then  rest  in  the  mud  until  ready  to  leave. 

The  greatest  difference  between  the  highest  and  lowest  tides  is  reported  about  24  feet,  and 

is  doubtless  more  than  this  when  we  compare  its  position  with  that  of  Steilacoom.     The 

approximate  corrected  establishment  isYh.  Vlllm.,  and  the  mean  rise  and  fall  of  tides  9.2  feet. 

The  approximate  geographical  position  of  the  wharf  is — 

o       /       // 

Latitude 47    03    00  north. 

Longitude 122    65    00  west. 

A.     m.        «. 

Or,  in  time 8    11    42.  ' 

Magnetic  variation  20°  4T  east,  in  July,  1856. 

A  small  saw-mill  has  been  built  on  Hammersley's  inlet,  and  another  on  Henderson's  inlet. 

HOOD'S  CANAL. 

The  entrance  to  this  arm  of  Admiralty  inlet,  lies  between  Basalt  Point  and  Foulweather 
Bluff,  which  bear  from  each  other  E.  |  S..  distant  3 J  miles. 

The  first  mid-channel  course  is  SE.  for  4  miles,  pointing  directly  into  Port  Gamble,  at  the 
entrance  to  which  the  houses  and  mill  are  plainly  visible;  and  passing  a  high  round  wooded 
peninsula  on  the  west  side  of  the  channel,  and  connected  to  the  main  by  a  narrow  neck  of  low 
sand  beach.  It  is  frequently  mistaken  for  an  island,  and  is  called  Hood's  Head.  Between  this 
head  and  Port  Gamble  the  canal  changes  its  course,  and  runs  in  nearly  a  straight  line  S.  by 
W.  40  miles,  with  an  average  width  of  IJ.  In  latitude  47°  21'  N.  it  makes  an  abrupt  turn, 
and  runs  for  12  or  13  miles  about  NE. 


156  *"  REPORT   OF    THE   SUPERINTENDENT   OF 

PORT   LUDLOW. 

Close  to  Basalt  Point  lie  some  rocks,  with  others  about  half  a  mile  SE.,  called  the  Colvos 
Rocks,*  among  which  is  one  25  feet  high  but  of  small  extent.  Close  in  shore  and  abreast  of 
this  is  a  rock  just  awash  at  high  tide,  but  between  the  two  runs  a  channel  with  15  fathoms 
water,  having  soft  muddy  bottom.  The  bright  bluff  head  1  j  mile  SE.  of  the  Colvos  Rocks,  and 
.about  2  miles  SW.  by  W.  from  Foulweather  Bluff,  is  Tola  Point.'  Half  way  between  the  Colvos 
and  this  point  is  the  usual  entrance,  over  a  bar  having  4^  fathoms.  The  3-fathom  curve 
stretches  half  a  mile  SE.  of  Colvos.  If  the  wind  and  currents  do  not  suit  for  this  channel, 
run  inside  of  the  Colvos,  carrying  deep  water  and  8  fathoms,  soft,  muddy  bottom,  anywhere 
inside  of  Tala  point,  even  past  the  saw-mill,  if  necessary.  The  general  direction  of  the  shore 
from  Basalt  Point  to  the  saw-mill  on  the  low  sand  point  inside  is  S.SE.  2\  miles.  Abreast  of 
Tala  the  width  of  the  bay  is  three-quarters  of  a  mile,  but  it  gradually  contracts  to  less  than 
half  a  mile  at  the  saw-mill,  at  which  vessels  load.  Inside  of  the  saw-mill  point  is  an  excellent 
anchorage  in  7  and  8  fathoms.  About  a  mile  from  the  mill  is  an  ample  water  power,  with  a  fall 
of  80  feet.     A  hydrographic  sketch  of  Port  Ludlow  was  issued  by  the  Coast  Survey  in  1856. 

We  believe  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Company  have  established  a  coal  depot  here,  for  their 
Puget's  Sound  steamships. 

Of  all  the  small  harbors  in  these  waters  we  do  not  hesitate  to  give  this  the  preference,  as  it 
is  completely  land-locked,  and  protected  from  gales  from  every  quarter  by  the  high  land  and 
high  trees  around  it. 

It  received  its  present  name  from  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition  in  1841. 

The  first  rocks  off  Basalt  lie  at  the  narrow  mouth  of  a  small  boat  harbor,  called  Mats-mats. 
The  entrance  to  it  is  over  half  a  mile  long,  about  100  yards  wide,  and  at  the  sharp  turn 
obstructed  by  rocks,  which  allow  a  channel  of  only  3  feet  water.  Inside  the  depth  ranges  to  2 
fathoms,  and  the  extent  of  the  harbor  is  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  by  a  third  in  breadth. 

POET   GAMBLE. 

After  passing  Foulweather  Bluff  keep  closer  to  the  eastern  shore  than  the  western,  to  avoid 
the  strong  current  passing  round  the  low  point  which  makes  out  from  Hood' s  Head.  Run  for 
the  saw -mill  plainly  in  sight  on  the  western  side  of  the  entrance  to  the  bay,  and  when  within 
a  mile  of  it  approach  the  eastei'u  bluff  within  the  third  of  a  mile,  in  about  10  or  15  fathoms, 
gradually  drawing  closer  in  shore,  and  passing  between  the  outer  white  and  inner  black  can 
buoys.  At  the  lowest  tides  the  white  one  is  in  15  feet,  the  black  in  12^,  and  the  small  spar 
buoy  between  them  in  mid-channel  in  17  feet;  but  it  rarely  shows  above  water  at  any  tide. 
After  passing  these  buoys  the  mill  bears  almost  S.SE.  half  a  mile  distant.  Steer  SE.  or  half 
way  between  the  mill  wharf  and  the  east  point;  pass  to  the  east  of  the  white  spar  buoy,  which 
is  in  12^  feet,  and  run  through  the  entrance,  passing  the  wharf  at  about  one-third  of  the 
distance  between  the  points.  Do  not  round  up  to  the  eastward,  as  a  shoal  makes  out  almost 
parallel  with  the  point.  It  may  be  here  noticed  that  these  buoys  were  made  and  placed  by  the 
Puget  Mill  Company,  for  the  benefit  of  vessels  trading  to  the  port. 

If  the  wind  is  ahead  while  beating  up,  it  will  be  impossible  for  a  large  sized  vessel  to  get  in, 
as  the  channel  is  half  a  mile  long,  and  not  over  100  yards  wide  at  the  narrowest  part.  Anchor 
off  the  buoys  and  drop  in  with  the  early  flood,  or  warp  in  with  the  last  of  the  ebb.  On  the 
shoal  forming  the  western  side  of  it  10  feet  may  be  found  until  up  with  the  white  spar  buoy. 

o  Named  by  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition. 


THE   UNITED  STATES   COAST   6UBVET.  157 

Insido  of  the  points  the  bay  appears  to  open  well  nndor  the  castom  one,  bat  the  3-fsthom 
curve  makes  out  on  a  line  with  the  end  of  the  point.  On  the  western  side  is  a  crib — anchor 
just  beyond  it  in  5  fathoms,  soft  muddy  bottom.  The  depth  of  water  throughout  the  bay  is  from 
4  to  9  fathoms,  in  mud  bottom.  The  length  of  the  bay  is  2|  miles,  its  width  three-quarters  of 
a  mile,  and  its  direction  southeast.  The  shores  are  steep  but  not  high,  and  are  bordered  by 
sand  and  pebble  boach,  offering  capital  chances  for  laying  a  vessel  out.  A  better  place,  however, 
for  that  purpose,  is  at  the  end  of  the  store  whari',  especially  for  vessels  with  large  dead  rise. 

In  summer  the  wind  generally  blows  into  the  harbor  lightly;  in  winter  the  SB.  gales  draw 
directly  out.  Loaded  vessels  must  warp  out  in  summer,  or  trust  to  a  light  southerly  air  in  tha 
morning  with  an  ebb  tide.  None  but  small,  smart  working  vessels  can  beat  out,  and  few  of 
those  have  done  so  within  the  channel  limits. 

The  Coast  Survey  Report  for  1856  contained  a  hydrographic  sketch  of  Port  Gamble. 

The  approximate  geographical  position  of  the  eastern  point  of  the  entrance  is: 

o       /         // 

Latitude 47  51  32  north. 

Longitude 122  33  56  west 

h.     m.     I. 

Or,  in  time 8  10  15.7. 

The  saw-mill  here  is  the  largest  and  most  effective  in  this  part  of  the  territory,  cutting  at 
the  rate  of  six  or  seven  millions  of  feet  of  lumber  per  year.  Attached  to  it  are  lath,  shingle, 
and  planing  machines.  A  large  quantity  of  the  lumber  and  rough  spars  for  masts  are  carried 
to  Australia  and  the  Sandwich  Islands.  Within  two  or  three  seasons,  ending  with  that  of  1857, 
the  number  of  outward  bound  vessels  trading  to  the  Sandwich  Islands  was  15;  the  average 
passage  26J  days;  the  shortest  passage  19  days,  and  the  longest  32.  From  the  islands  to  the 
mill  the  number  of  vessels  arriving  was  16;  average  passage  25 J  days;  shortest  passage  15 
days,  and  the  longest  35  days.  Of  these,  one  reported  a  passage  of  15  days  to  the  mouth  of 
Fuca  strait,  and  9  dajs  thence  to  the  port,  in  the  early  part  of  September,  having  encountered 
prevailing  calms  in  the  strait  and  inlet. 

From  this  place,  called  Teekalet,  (the  Indian  name  for  the  bay,)  a  road  is  being  constructed 
(1857)  by  the  Mill  Company  to  Port  Madison. 

The  steam  and  smoke  from  the  saw-mill  are  distinctly  visible  from  part  of  Port  Townshend 
over  the  low  ground  between  that  bay  and  Oak  Cove. 

Three  miles  from  Hood's  Head,  on  the  western  side  of  the  canal,  Suqxiamish  harbor  opens. 
A  large  sand  bank  occupies  its  centre,  and  extends  a  mile  in  length  N.NW.,  by  half  a  mile  in 
width.  The  approaches  to  the  shoal,  which  is  in  part  bare,  are  detected  in  thick  weather  by 
the  lead,  the  soundings  decreasing  regularly  from  20  fathoms.  Keep,  however,  close  under 
the  northern  shore  which  runs  2  miles  W.SW.  from  the  low  point  called  Termination  Point. 

Fourteen  miles  from  Hood's  Head  the  canal  curves  more  to  the  southward,  and  then  to  the 
S.SW.  around  Hazel  Point,  *  on  the  west  side  of  which  a  large  arm  of  the  canal  makes  north 
for  10  miles,  bifurcating  near  its  head.  On  its  western  side  the  eastern  spurs  of  the  Olympus 
Range  reach  its  waters  and  form  the  western  shore-line  of  the  canal  to  the  great  bend. 

Two  miles  south  of  Hazel  Point,  and  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  canal,  is  a  fine  harbor, 
formerly  called  Uahainiah  harbor,  but  the  name  has  been  changed  by  settlers,  who  have  lately 
built  a  small  saw-mill  there.     It  is  formed  by  Seabock  island  on  the  west,  and  is  about  a  mile 

e  Named  by  Vanooarer  in  1792. 


158 


REPORT  OP   THE    SUPERINTENDENT   OF 


long  by  half  a  mile  wide,  with  good  bottom  in  from  10  to  15  fathoms,  the  depth  decreasing  to 
the  head. 

South  of  the  harbor  Hood's  canal  is  slightly  contracted  in  width,  but  continues  in  the  same 
general  direction  to  about  latitude  47°  21' N.,  ("Vancouver's  farthest,")  where  it  takes  an 
abrupt  turn  and  stretches  E.  by  N.  ^  N.  4  miles.  The  width  in  that  part  contracts  to  half  a 
mile,  and  the  shores  overlap.  From  this  it  takes  another  slight  bend,  runs  NE.  by  N.  8  or  9 
miles,  and  reaches  within  2  or  3  miles  of  the  northern  extremity  of  Case  Inlet,  an  arm  of  Puget's 
Sound.  A  large  lake  lies  between  the  inlet  and  the  canal.  When  Vancouver  reached  the  first 
sharp  turn  he  thought  he  saw  the  termination  of  the  canal,  and  has  plotted  it  in  accordance 
with  that  view  on  his  chart,  four  miles  beyond  the  point  marked  "Vancouver's  farthest"  on 
the  Admiralty  charts.     This  was,  in  fact,  the  highest  point  to  which  he  carried  his  boats. 

The  name,  Hood's  Canal,  was  given  to  it  in  1792  by  Vancouver.  Its  extent  of  shore-line  is 
not  less  than  192  miles. 

Before  quitting  our  undertaking  we  are  induced  to  append  the  following  meteorological  table, 
as  it  will  give  a  good  idea  of  the  summer  climate.  The  observations  were  made  upon  a  vessel 
in  the  waters  of  Fuca  Strait,  Admiralty  Inlet,  and  Puget's  Sound;  the  instruments  being  kept 
in  the  best  shade  practicable.  The  barometer  was  an  aneroid:  read  at  the  hours  10  a.  m.  and 
4  p.  m.,  except  in  heavy  weather,  when  it  was  read  every  hour.  The  thermometer  readings 
are  on  the  Fahrenheit  scale  and  reduced  to  the  standard. 

Abstract  of  meteorological  observations  made  on  board  the  United  States  Coast  Surveying  brig  JR.  H. 
Fauntleroy,  in  the  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  Archipelago  de  Haro,  Admiralty  Inlet,  and  Fuget's 
Sound,  during  the  summers  of  1855,  '56,  and  '57. 


Time. 


=9    C3 

o  •" 


.g 
a 

"3  OS 


a 


"  a 


w 


<§ 


& 


be  to 


2^ 

o!  g  a 


-S 

0) 

o     . 

^3     flD 
OS    0) 

■=  ja 

Cm    U 

o  a 
<a  "^ 
tc 
a 


.a 

M 


1855.— July. 

August 

September 

Three  weeks  in  October. 


o 

71.5 
70.2 
65.8 
63.2 


o 
53.3 
53.4 
52.6 
52.2 


83.3 
77.7 
76.7 


o 
29.0 
24.7 
18.3 
20.2 


o 
,48.2 

49.8 
49.3 
45.3 


o 

9.4 

6.6 

8.6 

11.9 


o 
33.7 
29.7 
20.0 
27.6 


Ineha. 
0.44 

.43 

.91 
.38 


Inches. 
Not  mea- 
sured. 


Greatest  range  of  temperature  during  the  above  period,  45°.  6. 
Greatest  range  of  barometer  from  June  24  to  October  18,  =:  0.  92  inch. 
A  dry  season  ;  heavy  SE.  gales  in  September. 


TUE   UNITED   STATES   COAST   SURVEY, 


159 


ABSTRACT— Continued. 


Time. 


I 


I 


8> 


ll 

o  a 

o  *" 
Ml 

I 


1856.— May 

June..... 
July 

Auguat ... 
September, 


o 
67. 1 

69.0 

Tt.S 

7J.2 

72.8 


o 
48.7 

61.1 

81.7 

53.6 

61.1 


o 
85.7 
84.4 
84.7 
83. 7 
85.1 


o 
31.1 

27.4 
29.7 
25.5 
27.6 


o 
45.8 
45.7 
43.4 
48.4 
42.0 


o 

7.4 
10.3 
14.0 
10.2 
14.4 


o 
38.1 

34.0 
41.3 
30.2 
36.6 


Ineitt. 
0.53 

.63 

.43 

.56 

.69 


Indu*. 
Sot  mea- 

mred. 


Greateet  range  of  temperature  during  tlie  above  period,  43°.  7. 
Oieatest  range  of  barometer  from  April  25  to  September  30,  0. 85  inch. 
▲  wet  leaeoo. 


Time. 


ll 


a 

?l 

a 

1 

si 

.a 

& 

M 

a 

tzi 

a 
\i 

3 

* 


.3 

a 
•s 


•S5 


J  a  » 

o 


»a 


1867.— Three  weeks  in  May.. 

June 

July 

August 

September 

Two  weeks  in  October. 


o 
71.7 

78.2 
74.9 
73.8 
65.5 
60.1 


o 
48.4 
60.7 
51.6 
61.1 
49.8 
48.9 


o 
101.5 
90.1 
89.2 
88.0 
76.4 
68.7 


o 
46.9 
29.2 
26.5 
28  0 
23.3 
16.3 


o 
38.6 
43.0 
46.9 
47.1 
45.2 
43.4 


o 
18.1 
13.1 
9.3 
9.7 
8.6 
7.8 


o 
46.0 
36.9 
33.1 
37.8 
30.8 
26.1 


Jndut. 
0.62 

.62 

.44 

.46 

.73 

.66 


/ndbt. 
0.79 

1.19 

0.01 

0.08 

0.70 

0.74 


Qreateet  range  of  temperature  during  the  above  period,  63°.  0. 

Greatest  range  of  barometer  from  May  12  to  October  13,  0. 79  inch. 

A  dry  seaaoa ;  and  nuu-ked  by  a  week  of  remarkably  hot  weather  at  the  close  of  May  and  beginnlug  of  June. 

The  cerealia  generally  grow  w^ll,  but  the  climate  is  too  cold  for  maize.  During  the  winter 
a  great  amount  of  rain  falls — as  much  as  60  inches ;  and  heavy  weather  prevails  principally 
from  the  southward.     It  is  never  cold  enough  to  form  thick,  clear,  soli^  ice. 


160 


REPORT   OP   THE   SUPERINTENDENT   OP 


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ALPHABETICAL  INDEX. 


A. 

Admiralty  He^ 144,147 

AdminUty  Inlet 143 

Albioo  RlTer 66 

Alcatnui  bland 38 

AlUn  IiUnd 136 

AUcn'iBank 1,02 

Anacapa  Uland 20,21 

Angel  Inland ..................... ....  40 

Angeloa  Point 119 

Anita  Rock 39 

Apple  Tree  Cove 149 

Arckiiiclago  de  Uaro 131. 141 

Astor  Point 103 

B. 

Baaddah  Point.. HO 

Bainbridge  Island 149 

Baker's  Bay 104 

Balcli's  PasMge 154 

Bald  Peak 137 

Bank  off  Cape  Flattery 118 

Bank  off  Umpqnah.. . . 86 

Bar  off  San  Frandaoo ..... ....  37 

Barnes' Island 137 

Battery  Point 150 

BatUe  Bock 79 

Bay  of  San  Francisco  and  approaches 33-58 

BeedterBay 129 

BeechyHead 128,129 

Begg  Bock 20 

Bell-boat  off  San  Francisco  bar 56 

BelleRock 136 

Bellevue  Island .......................  131 

Beilingbam  Bay 142 

Bentinck  Island 129 

Birch  Bay „  139 

Bird  Bock,  San  Francisco  bay 39 

Bird  Rocks,  Bosario  Strait 135 

Bishop  Bocks 16,17 

Black  Buck 136 

BUke  Island 161 

Blakely  Harbor 161 

Blossom  Bock St 

Blnnt's  Bocks 67 

Bodega  Bay ! 62,63 

Bodega  Head , 62 

Boulder  Island 137 

Brace  Point 152 

Brotchy  Ledge 130 


PS|*. 

Buoksport ................... ...  68 

Bodds' or  Wosliington  Harbor..................  116 

Bud<ls'  Inlet 166 

Burrows  Island 136 

Bosh  Point 147 

0. 

California.    Origin  of  name  .......... .....  S 

Calliim  Bay.... 122 

Canal  de  Haro 131, 141 

Cape  niaaco 80,81 

Broughton 103 

Church 129 

Digappotntment 92 

Falcon 89,90 

Flattery 118 

Flattery,  Bank  near ................  118 

Fortunos ...... .....  68 

Foulweather 87 

Gregory 82 

Lookout 88 

Meares 88,89 

Mendocino 67,68 

Orfoid 80 

Perpetua  . . . 86 

Shoalwater 106-109 

Carmel  Bay 28 

Carrel  River 122 

Celetse  River 87 

Challam  Point 126 

Chatham  Island..... 130 

Chehalig  River 110,111 

Chekto  River 77 

Chinook  Point lOt 

Clark's  Island 137 

Columbia  River 11-106 

Columbia  River.   Entrance  to .. 93-102 

Colvos  Passage 16t 

Colvos  Rocks 166 

Commencement  Bay 163 

Cone  Islands . ...  14t 

Copalis  River Ill 

Coquille  River 81 

Cordova  Bay 131 

Cortes  Shoal 16 

Cowichin  Head 131 

Crescent  Bay . US 

Crescent  City  Bay 74 

Cuylor's  Harbor 23 

Cypress  Island 136,142 


164 


ALPHABETICAL   INDEX. 


D. 

Page. 

Darcy  Island 131 

Decatxir  Island 135 

Deception  Island 135 

Deception  Pass.. 135 

Deer  Lagoon 148 

Denis  Rock 136 

Destruction  Island . 114 

Discovery  Island . 130 

Double  Bluflf. 147 

Dragon  Hocks . 76 

Duntze  Rock 117 

Duwamish  Bay. 149 

Duxbury  Point  and  Beef 68 

E. 

Eagle  Harbor . 151 

East  Point 132 

EdizHook .'. 123 

Eel  River 68 

El  Coxo 13 

El  Moro 26 

Elwha  River 123 

Entrance  Rock 135 

Entrance  to  Columbia  River 93-102 

Esquimault  Harbor . 129 

Eureka 69 

Explanatory  remarks 1,2 

F. 

False  Dungeness 123 

False  Klamath 74 

False  Mendocino 68 

False  Tillamook 89 

Farallones 60,62 

Fauntleroy  Cove 152 

Fern  Cove .  152 

Fidalgo  Island. 135 

Fin  Rock 81 

Fishguard  Island 129 

Flattery  Rocks 115 

Fort  Point 135 

Fort  Ross 63 

J'oulweather  Bluff 148 

Fox  Island 163 

Fraser's  River 140 

G. 

Geographical  positions.   Tableof.. 160-162 

Gig  Harbor 153 

Gold  Bluff 73 

Golden  Gate 33  37 

Gordon  River 127 

Gray's  Bay _  104 

Gray' s  Harbor . HO 

Gueraes  Island 142 

Gulf  of  Georgia 139 


H. 

Page. 

Hahainish  Harbor 157 

Hautboy  Island . ..  136 

Haven's  Anchorage 64 

Hazel  Point 157 

Henry  Island 132 

Hood's  Canal 148,155 

Hood's  Head 155 

Humboldt  Bay 68-72 

Humboldt,  town  of 71 

I. 

Illinois  Eiver 77 

Introductory  Remarks 2,3 

Islands  of  Santa  Barbara  Channel 13-15 

J. 

James'  Island 136 

Java  Head . 132 

Juan  de  Fuca.     Straits  of 118 

K. 

Kelp.   Fields  of 134 

Kilisut  Harbor  . 145 

Klamath  River 74 

Koitlah  Point 120 

Koos  Bay 83 

L. 

Lake  Washington —  150 

Leadbetter  Point 106,107 

Long  Island.    Shoal  water  Bay 108 

Lopez  Bay 135 

Lopez  Island 134 

Los  Coronados  . 3 

Lob  Esteros 26 

Low  Point . 123 

Lummi  Island 137 

Lummi  Rock 137 

M. 

Mad  River 72 

Magnolia  Bluff 150 

Marrowstone  Point 147 

Matia  Group 147,148 

Mats-mats  Harbor 156 

McNeil  Island 154 

Mendocino  Bay 65,  66 

Middle  Farallone 61 

Mile  Rocks 35 

Minor  Island 133 

Mission  of  San  Buenaventura 9 

Monte  de  Buchon 26 

Monterey  Bay 29-31 

Mount  Baker 145 

Beacon  .. 130 

Chatham 126 

Douglas 130 

Erie 136 


ALPHABETICAL   INDEX. 


165 


Iloont  Olympoa.  ............................  113 

Piklenno  .  ............................  fit 

MuUny  B»y 147 

N. 

Kuiiimo  Bay 141 

Vhnomt,  the 153 

Kaul  River 108 

Nawoicgah  Rirer 88 

Kecbane  Birei 87 

Nee-«h  B»y 120-122 

Nehalem  Blyer 89 

Meluu  RlTer 87 

Nertoggkh  Elver 87 

New  DuDgeneM  Bmj . lU 

NItqittlly ......  IfiS 

Nodule  PolQt 147 

North  Beach 88 

North  Farallonee.... 61 

North  Point 88 

Noyon  River.......... .. 65 

0. 

OiJiCove 147 

Obaervatory  Boclu 127,128 

Olympia 166 

OrvuB  bland 137 

Orford  Reef 83 

Ortoe  Creelt 31 

Otter  Point 128 

Outer  Telegraph  Station . ......... .  40 

Owen  Point 127 

P. 

Palnx  Biver 108 

Parry  Bay 129 

Patoa  lalands 132, 138 

Peapods 137 

Pedder  Bay 129 

Peecador  River 32 

Piedras  Blaocaa 27 

Pillar  Point 122 

Pine  lalaod..... 108 

Point  Adami... 91 

Angelee 124 

Alio  Nuevo ... . ... 29,32 

Arguello  .  . ...... .  24 

Boneta . . 33 

Brown 110 

Carmel 28 

Conception n 

Convenion 9 

Cypres 28 

Defiance 153 

Diablo 37 

Diiney ...^ 132 

Duma 9 

Edmund 149 

Elliott 149 

Ellig 103 

Fermin ..............  8 


Point  Qeorga 103 

OrettTtlle ............. lij 

Hauon  . no 

Hudion 144 

Jeflemn . 149 

Lawrence...................... ....  137 

Loboa 34 

Loma ....... ............. 4 

Lo«  Brteroa... 26 

Hicamontes  ...........................  S3 

New 110 

No  Point 148 

Partridge 144 

Pedemalea 24 

Hno6 28 

Pnlly 162 

Puriraima 24 

Reyes  ................... 59 

Roberts 140 

San  Jo«i 37 

San  Loii 25 

San  Pedro 33 

Saucelito 40 

St  George 76 

Sur 27 

Tomales .. 6S 

Vinccnte ...... 9 

Wells 149 

Whitehom 139 

Wilson ......  127 

Port  Angclea 123 

IMsoovery 126 

Gamble 166 

Ludlow 166 

Madison  . .. 149 

Orchard 149 

Orford ........ 78-80 

San  Juan .. 127 

Townshcnd 144-146 

Possession  Sound ..  148 

Presidio 40 

Presidio  Shoal . .... 39 

Protection  Island. 126 

Puerto  False ...... .  7 

Pugct's  Sound 153,157 

Punta  de  Arena ................ . 64 

Punta  de  la  Santa  Crux.. 29 

Punta  de  lea  Cavallos 40 

Punta  Qorda,  North 67 

Punta  Gorda,  South 27 

Q. 

Quartermaster's  Harbor . .... ...  153 

Qne-ni-ult  River 113 

Quimper  Peninsula 145 

R. 

Race  Islands 129 

Bed  BluJf 69 

Bedding's  Book 73 

Baatontion  Point 161 


166 


ALPHABETICAL   INDEX. 


Page. 

Bincon 41 

Kio  de  Pajaro 30 

Eock  Duncan 117 

Bock  Island 137 

Eogue's  River 77,78 

Eogue's  Kiver  Eeef 78 

Eosario  Strait. . .. 134,141 

Round  Island 108 

S. 

Salinas  River 30 

San  Buenaventura  Mission 9 

San  Clemente,  Island  of -  17, 18 

San  Diego  Bay .  4-7 

San  Francisco  Bar — -..-  37 

San  Francisco  Bay 33-47 

San  Gregorio  River . 32 

San  Juan  Capistrano 7 

San  Luis  Obispo —  25 

San  Luis  Ray 7 

San  Miguel  Island - 23,24 

San  Miguel,  Rocks  near 24 

San  Nicolas  Island 19,20 

San  Pedro  Bay 7-9 

San  Simeon  Bay 26 

Sandy  Island 102 

Sandy  Point 138 

Santa  Barbara  Channel,  general  remarks  on  islands 

in 13-15 

Santa  Barbara  Channel ,  remarks  on 15 

Santa  Barbara,  Island  of -  19 

Santa  Barbara  Harbor 10 

Santa  Catalina  Island 18,19 

Santa  Cruz  Harbor -  31 

Santa  Cruz  Island 21,22 

Santa  Rosa  Island - 22 

Sares  Head 136 

Saturna  Island 132 

Scaget  River 1*^ 

ScatchetHead 1*8 

Seabock  Wand 15'? 

Seal  Rocks ^5 

Seattle  Rock 1^0 

Sekon  Point 122 

Shag  Rock ^^ 

Shelter  Cove ^^ 

Sheringham  Point 128 

Shoal  Bight ^^^5 

Shoals 1^* 

Shoalwater  Bay 1<*^ 

Sidney  Island ^^^ 

Sikhs  River 81 

Sinclair  Island 137,142 

Sir  Francis  Drake's  Bay 68,  69 

Sisters,  The ^37 

Skipjack  Islands 132 

Slip  Point 122 

Smith's  Island 133 

Smith's  River '^'^ 


Page. 

Sooko  Inlet 128 

Sonth  Farallone 60,61 

St.  George's  Bay 76 

Steilacoom . 154 

Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca 118 

Strawberry  Bay , 136 

Striped  Peak 122,123 

Stuart  Island 132 

Sturgeon  Bank 141 

Sucia  Group 132,138 

Suquamish  Harbor 157 

T. 

Table  Bluff 69 

Tila  Point 156 

Tatoosh  Island 126,127 

Telegraph  Hill 38,40 

Termination  Point 157 

Tichcnor's  Rock 79 

Tillamook  Bay 89 

Tillamook  Head 90 

Tomales  Bay 62 

Tongue  Point 103 

Trial  Islands 130 

Trinidad  Bay 72,73 

Trinidad  Head 72 

Tumbo  Island 132 

u. 

Umpquah  River. -  83,85 

Unit  Rock 131-141 

Useless  Bay 148 

V. 

Vancouver  Island 127 

Vashon's  Island 163 

Vendovi  Island 142 

Victoria  Harbor 130 

Village  Point 138 

Viti  Rocks 137 

w. 

Waaddah  Island 120 

Waldron  Island 132 

Washington  Harbor . 125 

Watmough  Head 134 

West  Point 160 

Whidbey  Island 133 

Whilapab  Eiver 108 

Williamson's  Rocks 136 

Y. 

Yaquinnah  Eiver -. 86 

Yerba  Buena  Island — --  39 

Young's  Bay -  104 

Young's  Island 136 

Young's  Point - 103 

z. 

ZeroRock 13^ 


EBBATA. 

Fkge    63:  line  20,  foi  10".S  read  30".4. 

Page    63:  Line  81,  for  29"  reiul  28".8. 

Fkgo    85:  Line  13  from  bottom,  for  4^.3  re*d  45".3. 

Pago  133:  Line  3,  for  123°  14  read  123°  14'. 

Page  146:  line  9,  for  25".  6  read  25".8. 


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